I have an outdoor double socket which has 20mm knockouts.
Like this one;
https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-g...d-socket/67928
I am going to spur off to a switchable light, I'm going to add an outdoor IP rated switch which goes to a IP rated junction box.
I'm going to use 20mm pvc conduit to link the outdoor socket to the switch and then to the junction box.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-con...th-white/6282p
What do I need to actually attach the conduit to the outdoor socket, switch and junction box? Is there some kind of IP rated connector or similar?
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Hi
You will need a male or female adaptor. Female is used more often.
The female adaptor has an internal thread in which you screw in a bush from inside the socket, the male has an external thread and a lock ring.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-fem...ack-of-2/70059
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-mal...ack-of-2/46442
Use a dab of silicone to seal the conduit and adaptor. If you can enter the socket from the bottom to prevent ingress.
Last edited by Riley; 19th May 2020 at 08:15.
Just in case as you dint mention it, you will have to fuse it down, assuming its not a five amp socket
How do I fuse down a spur?Originally Posted by adrianw
The circuit is rcd protected at the consumer unit.
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Add one of these between socket and lighting
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATERPROO...sAAOSwoF5cdAh0
I had this set up for washing cars, double socket 16A from house, wanted to add some security lights so
fused spur can be seen at the down hill side of existing socket, replaced black junction box from first picture, all to do with lights is now 5a protected.
Last edited by MCFastybloke; 19th May 2020 at 09:19.
Cheers, as the switch and light will be directly above the socket it easiest to knockout one of the top holes, however I could use a side knockout and an elbow and then go up.
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Got it.Add one of these between socket and lighting
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WATERPROO...sAAOSwoF5cdAh0
I had this set up for washing cars, double socket 16A from house, wanted to add some security lights so
fused spur can be seen at the down hill side of existing socket, replaced black junction box from first picture, all to do with lights is now 5a protected.
Instead of a switch I will replace it with what you mention, I guess I'll just swap the 13a fuse for a 5a.
P.s. the light to the left (highest placed light) is that also protected or just the ones downhill from the switched fuse?
Cheers
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Last edited by Estoril-5; 19th May 2020 at 09:27.
I assume that its is currently 15 or 30 amp to be correct the easiest way will be to use a fused spur with a 5 amp fuse, so from the socket to the spur, them to the light, to minimise things you could use the fused spur as the light switch.
Yup, I'm going to trade out the switch for the fused switchable spur
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Is the existing outside socket on a spur from an existing ring final (with probably 32A breaker) or from an existing radial (20 or 16A breaker probably)?
The main issue is protecting the cable supplying the outside socket (which is probably a single piece of 2.5 t&e)
If it is then you shouldn't take another spur from this socket(although if it's to supply lighting the chance of overloading the cable is low)
If you wish to take another spur then to be strictly correct the existing outside setup should be altered so that the outside socket is itself fed from a FCU connected to the supplying Ring. You could then take another spur from this outside socket (suitably fused down to the application) as the whole network of spurs is being protected by the fuse in the 1st FCU.
However, If the existing outside socket is already part of the ring final then you can of course take a spur from that without needing to introduce a FCU before it.
If the outside socket is being fed from a branch from a radial circuit (16 or 20A breaker) then there is no issue taking another branch to a FCU for the lights.
It's a good idea to run an outside socket from an FCU on the ring (or branch of radial) anyway as it can be easily isolated in the event of a fault.
Last edited by jeff; 19th May 2020 at 10:43. Reason: additional info
The outside socket has a neon indicator FCU on the other side of the wall i.e. in the house. This allows me to disconnect the power when I'm not using the outside and stops anyone using it without my consent (which would never happen in reality).
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Ah, in that case the socket is already a fused spur/branch so you're fine to go ahead and take another spur off it for the lights (fused down suitably).
Of course the new lights will only work when the internal SFCU is on, which may or may not be an issue depending on how you wish to use them.
This light will only be used in the evening when we need some lighting for the patio, it won't be used once we're inside so it's fine the way it is setup.
I also have a pir floodlight that is elsewhere for security (not on this setup) so that takes care of providing light when triggered.
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Sound like you're on top of things.
whilst im here, im assuming 1.5mm2 T&E will be fine for this job and not require 2.5mm2 T&E. Its just one LED floodlight (10w).
I’d be testing the original socket your coming off first to see whether the ZS value is acceptable and polarity, to make sure the circuit is safe to come off, nothing worse than getting everything done to find out none of it complies.
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Last edited by Pennywise; 19th May 2020 at 17:38.
Now you've completely lost me.
Might have to get a spark in.
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