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Thread: Bike tyres and innertubes (think puncture resistance)

  1. #1

    Bike tyres and innertubes (think puncture resistance)

    Anyone got experience of decent puncture resistant tyres/innertubes or sealants/tapes
    I ride frequently in the new forest which has lots of Gorse /thorns and had a few punctures lately
    (Ps before anyone kicks off I have direct access off my property and never come within 50m of another soul)
    Recommendations gratefully accepted.
    My E-mtb has nobby nic tyres and these are almost new.

  2. #2
    Master
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    I use the Schwable Marathon Plus on my hybrid that I've had one puncture in 5 years - and it was slow enough that I could cycle home without having to push. I believe they also do similar for MTB, although there are also the green slime inner tubes that you could use with your current tyres.

  3. #3
    Master
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    Goat you could try a product such as Slime. Another option is a specific tube eg like these
    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...e/rp-prod94763

    Lastly you can buy kevlar type bands that fit inside the tyre.

    The trouble with thorns is they are like needles so will pass through most barriers.

    Quiet a few of my pals have gone tubeless using Stans no tubes solutions.
    https://www.notubes.com/

    True tubeless conversions apparently transform the ride on mtb’s as you reduce rotating unsprung mass and following a thorny ride you can see little bubbles of sealant appearing on the tread , but with negligible loss of pressure.

    So three options, let us know how you get on as Im toying with the idea, it would free up two tubes worth of space in my bag, more room for energy bars👍

  4. #4
    Craftsman
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    Those Schwalbes already mentioned are the ones to go for. They're relatively heavy and insensitive but very puncture resistant.

  5. #5
    Master
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    I’ve tried all the usual options on my bikes, the best and most reliable is the tubeless setup, as long as your wheels and tyres are suitable and you’ve got a compressor to do the initial inflation to pop the beads on.

    My next favourite is the Kevlar type inserts, I certainly got fewer punctures and the weight added is minimal, but you only cover 2/3rds of the width of the tyre as a rule. Fiddly to fit as well!

    I’ve also used the slime tubes, which work very well and punctures are pretty much a thing of the past, but they are the heaviest solution.

    I still carry a spare tube and jet valve inflator with all options, it’s possible to pinch flat the tubeless setups.

    I actually got a flat yesterday on my exercise ride, on a bike that I’d changed tyres on recently and had not put the Kevlar strip back in place.

  6. #6
    Master mondie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by craggie View Post
    Those Schwalbes already mentioned are the ones to go for. They're relatively heavy and insensitive but very puncture resistant.
    Agreed, I put some 1.75" Scwalbes on my MTB about a year ago and are yet to have a puncture, the old tyres probably punctured every 6 weeks or so which was a PITA. I don't ride on rough tracks like those David is describing but even so, they are remarkably more resistant to punctures.

  7. #7
    Master
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    IMO it depends on the kind of riding and inclination/aptitude to maintenance

    If its bridleway pootling then as mentioned you can go for the self-sealing tubes which should be fit and forget however all sealants have a lifespan and i'd expect to change tubes every 18-24m, if not when you need them you could well find the sealant in side has gone off and let you down.

    You can also add 'tube protectors' to reduce the chance of penetration but they will not protect the sidewalls.
    https://www.leisureoutlet.com/other-...hoCyiYQAvD_BwE


    If the intent if something more challenging post lockdown then:
    I do most of my mountain biking on the south downs so have thorns and flint to deal with.
    Both bikes are set up tubeless with Stans, I change the fluid at the start of the season and its good throughout.

    I carry tubeless repair kit for the times when any hole is too large for the stans to seal
    https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/1590694...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

    And some gaffer tape wrapped around an old credit card and some old toothpaste tube to make into patches should I tear the sidewalls.

    Plus an inner tube as a everything else has failed backup, mainly because the thought of a 10 mile walk home carrying my bike due to puncture is painful.


    Plenty of guides online on how to setup tubeless and happy to answer any questions


    You might find that as its a fairly resent bike the rims might already be set up for tubeless and just need to buy the fluid and valves if they didnt come with the bike, you might also consider a change in tire as memory tells me that nobilly nic's are quite thin but it might be the racing ralfs I'm thinking of.

  8. #8
    Check if your wheels are tubeless ready. Many new bikes are. I've got tubeless on my road bike and haven't had a puncture yet, whereas with tubes I had them regularly.

  9. #9
    Thanks very much everyone....got some bits and pieces to research.
    Following on from a few comments,
    Yes the bike (a Cube reaction 500) has tubeless-ready rims, and I do own a compressor....the nobby nic tyres are 29x2.6, so quite wide and I’m not sure that Schwalbe do their (excellent sounding) marathon tyres in that size
    Beginning to think tubeless with sealant is the way to go, lots of Gorse in my area which just tickles when you brush past the green, living stuff but when it’s fallen and dried it’s tough as old boots and good for punctures! Most riding is done on the bleached white plateau-gravel tracks and fire breaks which luckily come pretty much to my driveway
    Thanks again.

  10. #10
    Master
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    Sounds like a great place to ride Goat, especially now it’s drying up.

    My tubeless setup is a Maxxis DHF/DHR combo, also 2.6, I had a job getting the front to seat but a bit of bouncing and it was all good.

    I’ve come back from rides and had to pick out the hawthorns, but the tyres stayed up.

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