Reply With QuoteAt that age and mileage I would replace both the slave and master cylinders, make sure you check any rubber hoses and replace these as well if any doubt.
Am looking for some advice please as recently acquired a clutch issue on my car. The pedal goes straight to the floor and pretty much stays there unless I hook my foot under it to retrieve it. For a few hundred miles it was coming up half way but in the last month it’s got worse and never returns to the regular position.
Then I had a few issues changing gear yesterday (moving it around the garage to investigate) and the bloody thing wouldn’t go into gear. Checked the clutch reservoir and was well below the MIN mark which I topped up. No sign of leaks anywhere though from what I can see on the floor, engine bay or footwell.
Today I went to bleed the system and after adjusting the slave bleed nipple not a single drop of fluid came out. I thought it was blocked so completely unscrewed the nipple stud and removed from the cylinder and despite pedal pumping (and using my Gunson Eezibleed) not a drop of fluid came out. At this point I disconnected the hose that comes out of the master cylinder (to the slave) and lots of new clean fluid came out so I think that is OK.
I’ve now removed the slave completely, and new, clean fluid is now coming out of the hose (that comes directlyfrom the master).
Can I safely assume the slave is buggered please?
FYI - Car is a 1990 Porsche 944 S2 with 200k on the clock with what looks like the original slave and master installed. Clutch was replaced 6k ago (with receipt).
At that age and mileage I would replace both the slave and master cylinders, make sure you check any rubber hoses and replace these as well if any doubt.
Agreed - but check the rubber hoses first as they can collapse under pressure preventing the pedal lifting.Originally Posted by Arcam
^^^ this ^^^
And it's the cheapest option as well! When replacing, try to get a braided hose; always a better option.
A warning: here on the Continent, several parts suppliers are having a bad time due to the Corona virus. In fact, I was asked (almost begged!) by one to buy parts from him because he's on the edge of bankruptcy. Sadly I don't need any parts at this moment. So be sure that your favorite supplier is still able to deliver.
Menno
Last edited by thieuster; 2nd April 2020 at 09:05.
Always fun getting the slave out on a 944 due to where it is! I did mine (90 turbo) and bled it through with an easibleed so that does work. There is a piece of solid pipe which can get thin and expand as well as the flexi pipe. I think pirtek could copy the flexi bit although iirc the slave isn't very expensive. This is the parts breakdown for the clutch and there is a parts no for the slave rebuild kit
I think this is unlikely to be a hydrolic issue if any kind.
I bet that the clutch spring plate fingers have worn through and broken - so there is nothing to drive the slave back in and it will keep the clutch plate clamped.
Full clutch replacement and a new slave cylinder is needed.
This is common, and normally caused by a dry slave cylinder bearing that causes tbe slave to rub on the spring every time you apply the clutch.
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The OP stated the clutch was replaced 6k miles ago, it would have made a right racket if it had failed as you described.
Yes it was a pig to get to especially as you have to remove the starker motor too!Always fun getting the slave out on a 944 due to where it is! I did mine (90 turbo) and bled it through with an easibleed so that does work. There is a piece of solid pipe which can get thin and expand as well as the flexi pipe. I think pirtek could copy the flexi bit although iirc the slave isn't very expensive. This is the parts breakdown for the clutch and there is a parts no for the slave rebuild kit
Re your diagram - I’ve got fluid coming out the end of part no #34, whereas before there was nothing coming out the bleed nipple (even when I removed it). The slave is £50 so am going to change it anyway.
Onto the brakes now, hopefully I haven’t got any plate-lift !!!
Plate lift - you probably have but if, and it can be a big if, you can get the hex bolts out on the plates then it's an easy ish job to attack it with a dremel and tidy it up.
The bolts are the hard bit.
Does sound as though the slave is at fault. One other option is the clutch fork but sadly that involves nearly as much work as changing the clutch itself.
I had an unexpected clutch change on mine last year, the fork was suspected but was fine, clutch was not. And it wasn't that old!
Symptoms were no reverse or 1st, could just about get 2nd to 5th from stationary, easier on the move.
4 bloody weeks for the slave cylinder to arrive from Car Parts 4 Less !!!
Anyway, changed it today and after using the (absolutely brilliant) Ezibleed everything is back to normal and I have a working clutch again that feels like a brand new car changing gears.
Thanks to all those who responded.
Well done Gav, always nice when a plan comes together, even if you did have to wait for it. I'm about to go out and try my 4th fuel/temp gauge in the hope that this has both sides operating properly! 2 with fuel gauges and one with temp but none with both!!
Oh dear - what’s happened there then? is it a bad earth causing the problem?
Funnily enough I filled my car up today and the fuel gauge only registered 3/4s full. I’m hoping it’s a dodgy earth as the dials are unreadable at night which is typically a tell-tall sign.
Clutch wasn’t a big issue in the end, the hardest part was fitting the bloody seat runners back in as I removed them to hoover it out. I might treat the car to a short shifter kit this week.
Awesome car the 944. I’ve also got a 911 997.1 CS and I’m sure I have more fun in the S2 !!!
Last edited by gavsw20; 12th May 2020 at 22:52.
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