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Thread: ETA 2801 help

  1. #1
    Craftsman
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    ETA 2801 help

    Having cocked up removing the stem from my PRS 29-A so that I couldn't re-install I have stripped down the movement and am in the process of rebuilding.

    However I am having problems with the reassembling the keyless works. Once I have fixed the operating lever, setting lever, return bar and spring I cant pull the crown out fully. If I work backwards and take the spring off I still cant fully pull out the crown. It looks like the return bar is contacting the operating level which stops any further movement. If I remove the return bar I can pull the crown out fully and the operating and setting levers end up in the setting position

    I assume I am making a beginners mistake but I can't figure out what. Any assistance will be much appreciated.

    I'll post some photos below.

  2. #2
    Craftsman
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    As promised photos. First up fully assembled keyless works. Crown in:



    Crown out as far as it'll go:



    Next spring off and crown in:



    Crown out:



    Next return bar off and crown in:



    And crown out:



    I hope they help.

    Tapatapatapatapatalk

  3. #3
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    Oh yes and then there is this:



    I think I was a bit heavy handed when replacing it. I assume it is easier to buy a new pallet bridge than ask someone to put the jewel back in.

    Tapatapatapatapatalk
    Last edited by Wimm; 9th February 2020 at 19:20. Reason: Spelling

  4. #4
    Grand Master
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    The initial problem with the stem was caused by the yoke becoming disengaged from the sliding pinion, this is all too easy to do on these movements (and similar 2824). It can be avoided by ensuring the watch is in handset when the crown is removed, and taking care not to depress the end of the setting lever when removing the crown. The black 1.0mm screwdriver just fits the slot, press down and you canít go too far, use a smaller screwdriver or tool and you risk pressing it too far. Even then, you have to be careful when fitting the crown, turning it backwards if required to engage the square section into the sliding pinion.

    Once the problem has happened there are two ways to solve it, either take the barrel bridge off to access the sliding pinion from the movement side ( fiddly) or take the dial off and get at it from the top of the movement. What Iím struggling to understand is why youíve stripped the whole movement down, the problemís confined to the keyless work and itís straightforward to fix.

    I canít see what youíre doing wrong with the keyless work, its a bit fiddly but it should all go together easily.

    The pallet cock jewel can be refitted but you need the correct jewelling press to refit it. Getting the height correct is tricky and beyond the scope of a beginner. A replacement is the easier option.

    I donít know how much experience you have with movement work, or what cleaning and oiling facility youíve got, but the advice Iíll give is this: if in doubt STOP. Pack everything up carefully in small plastic bags and post the lot to a repairer to sort out. Iíll sort this out for what Iíd charge to service the watch.

    When I started in 2011/12 I made a similar mistake with a quartz Omega, I ended up fitting a new movement which needed parts swapping over to match up, that watch spent 9 months in pieces until my skill level developed sufficiently to sort it out, so I can relate to your problems.

  5. #5
    Craftsman
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    The pallet fork bridge is cheap enough, so just buy one. No idea how you got that stone out though! Gentle gentle is the method.

    With the keyless works, follow this in order as laid out https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/catego...-ETA2836.2.pdf
    From your picture the only thing that I can/can't really see, but it looks like part 445 the combined setting lever jumper (the piece that is on top of the keyless works) the sprung arm at the bottom of the pictures that engages with the yoke. It looks like it is under the yoke and not just next to it.

  6. #6
    Master Thewatchbloke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by me32dc View Post
    The pallet fork bridge is cheap enough, so just buy one. No idea how you got that stone out though! Gentle gentle is the method.
    If that happened during assembly check you haven't also broken a pallet fork pivot off!

  7. #7
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thewatchbloke View Post
    If that happened during assembly check you haven't also broken a pallet fork pivot off!
    +1.....or bent one, which is difficult to spot. I had a 2824 with a bent pallet lever pivot, watch ran badly, swapped for a new one and it ran perfect.

    OP has my sympathies with this one, Iíll encourage anyone to get into movement work but its best to start on old watches that are worth nothing.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the advice gents.

    I have been practicing, on and off, with a couple of old movements for a year or so but this is the first of my watches that I have worked on. It was only supposed to be a crystal change but once I realised my mistake with the stem I knew it would be a bit more involved.

    I stripped it down as I didn't know any better but it was also a good way of learning another movement. Plus spares are still available so if I really cocked up.... I certainly wouldn't have done it on one of my vintage watches.

    Before I have another go at the weekend I do have another question. The tip of the return lever is kinked downwards, is that supposed to fit beneath the operating lever? It looks like it isn't and is coming in to contact with the operating lever. I think it is this that is stopping the full movement of the keyless works.

    I have examined the pallet fork pivots and the are still present but I suspected that there could be some damage that I could not see so another pallet fork is on the shopping list.

    Tapatapatapatapatalk

  9. #9
    Grand Master
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    If you send me an e-mail address I can send you some detailed photos I took several years back which show the keyless work being taken apart step by step on a 2824 which is the same as this. I think this would help you. I take photos of every new movement I work on and keep them stored for reference.

    You're either making a small mistake or you've sprained something taking it apart. They are a bit fiddly to reassemble but once you've got used to them they're very straightforward.

    If you go on the Cousins website they have all the ETA technical service info in pdf form, v helpful.

  10. #10
    Master Thewatchbloke's Avatar
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    My money's on a bent yoke tip contacting the set lever preventing it from moving to its full extent. Either bend it straight (can be difficult) or replace it (a lot easier).

  11. #11
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    Thank you for the further advice. It looks like the shopping list is getting longer.

  12. #12
    Grand Master
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    I`ve sent some pics by e-mail that might help.

    Hadn't thought about the tip of the yoke being bent, that takes some doing.

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