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Thread: A Universal Geneve 138 now back in service

  1. #1

    A Universal Geneve 138 now back in service

    Following on from my last thread about the restoration of a Breitling three-hander some might have seen in the Incoming/New Arrival thread my subsequent acquisition shortly before Christmas of a stainless steel Universal Geneve 138.

    This was another eBay purchase, offered up as “does not work or parts missing – for spares”. Although missing the crystal and – more importantly – the original hour hand, the watch looked in decent enough condition, even if there was no photo of the movement itself. I tend to view a missing picture of the movement as being both good and bad – bad in the sense that the movement might be missing parts or irreparably damaged, though good in that implies the owner has not bothered to open the case.



    The watch arrived a few days after making the payment and, upon closer inspection, certainly seemed like it had been a worthwhile purchase.

    Opening the case showed the UG 138 “bumper” automatic movement to be very clean, intact, and remarkably still in working condition. Although the lack of a crystal had resulted in some superficial surface discoloration and spotting to the dial, it was in far better condition than I might have realistically hoped.

    Although I couldn’t find a huge amount of data on the Internet, checking the serial number on the case back (1,498,465) against the list of UG fabrication dates on the Omega Forum suggested the watch dated from between 1949 and 1951. Googling the 20003 model number turned up a few other examples that also dated to the same period, and checking the wonderful database at Ranfft showed that the 138 movement was produced between 1948 and 1955. So for a watch that is approximately 70 years old I think it has survived pretty well!









    Briefly fitting a 17mm DiModell Teju strap let me admire the case itself, which still has lovely sharp edges, chamfers on the lug edges, and what seems to be a combination of brushed steel to the case sides and polished steel to the lug tops and bezel:



    Fitting a temporary Sternkreuz crystal to protect the dial in transit, I contacted Brendan (webwatchmaker) to see if he could sort it out for me. He told me that he was going to be away over Christmas and the New Year, so I put the watch aside and waited for his return.

    Early in the New Year I contacted Brendan again and sent the watch off to him. He confirmed receipt the next day and then I sat back to wait whilst he worked his way through the backlog of other work. A couple of weeks later I received an email informing me that the UG had reached the top of the pile.

    Brendan mentioned that finding suitable hands might be the biggest challenge. This wasn’t a surprise, as according to Ranfft the 138 has an unusually sized hour hand at 1.32mm. I had noted this before I sent the watch off to Brendan, and so had been keeping an eye out on eBay in case anything suitable came up, but I had drawn a blank. As Brendan had told me, not just the size needed to be correct but also the shape and colour needed to be a good match. However Brendan also assured me he has a wealth of old watch parts available, and sure enough a subsequent email showed that he had turned up a suitable pair:



    Although not a perfect match to the old set, they were spot on for the period and suit the watch very well, so we agreed to use them. I still have my saved eBay search set up, so if a perfect set of hands come up in the future that might be something to consider, but to be honest when looking at the finished article I doubt anyone could actually tell that the hands were not made for this watch unless they saw the old set.

    Having determined that the project was a go, Brendan then set about servicing the movement.

    I have to admit that my knowledge of watch movements and repairs is rudimentary at best, so with every update received from Brendan I would send back questions that must have had him rolling his eyes. However I found the answers illuminating.

    For example:
    Q: “what’s that little brass disc holding a jewel?”
    A: ”it’s the incabloc bottom setting. Usually not gold plated”



    Q: “what’s the arrow for on the brass plate that would normally be hidden by the rotor? It looks to be pointing towards a particular tooth....or is that just coincidence?”
    A: “The arrow has been put there to make sure when meshing the rotor teeth with the pawl teeth, that both sets of teeth are in the middle so that the rotor can swing both directions without coming off the last tooth on the pawl.”



    It was also fascinating seeing the movement disassembled and ready for the ultrasonic cleaning. As we had hoped at the outset, the movement was in good condition, and Brendan subsequently told me that the fact that there was no wear on the rotor pivots is quite unusual for such an old watch. So other than the hands, which we knew about from the start, the only other necessary replacement part was a new mainspring.





    A day later and Brendan had the new mainspring fitted and the watch re-assembled:







    Then it was just a case of waiting for the watch to arrive, which it did on Tuesday this week. As ever with these projects, opening the package up and seeing the restored and serviced watch is what makes everything worthwhile.

    I think the finished article looks superb, and huge thanks once again to Brendan for applying his magic!









    And finally one of those drilled and chamfered lugs......

    Last edited by willie_gunn; 31st January 2020 at 17:15.

  2. #2
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    Very nice WG and thanks a lot for the comprehensive write up and photos. A great example of a watch from what I think of as the golden age.

    I have a different JW Benson of my own off for some fettling soon...

  3. #3
    Many thanks.

    I'd like to see the Benson when it comes back, as they are a make I always keep an eye open for.

    The only other one I have at the moment is this 9ct gold Dennison-cased example from (if I read the hallmarks correctly) 1950-51:







    The movement is very nicely finished, and though I can't make out any identifying marks it ticks away strongly.

    I agree with you that this was a great era for watches, and there are some lovely examples that can be picked up for what is very reasonable money. They have a real timeless elegance.

  4. #4
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    Thank you WG, for such a comprehensive write up. I do love restoring these old classics. This one must have been in a drawer for years considering it's very good condition. Most Omega bumpers are usually pretty worn and the centre jewels for the rotor, which are hard to find, need replacement. Often the damping springs are either missing or damaged as well. So the clunk without them is what probably wears the rotor jewels. Yours were as new. You will see that the new mainspring is for a manual wind watch. A short length of mainspring put inside the edge of the barrel causes the spring to slip round when the watch is fully wound. Must be well greased. The replacement hands are a fraction short but they do look the period. They came from this old ST1686 below and luckily were the right hole diameters. Glad I never throw any old watch bits away !
    You do seem to find very interesting watches WG, thanks for your business and posts.


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    Last edited by Webwatchmaker; 31st January 2020 at 18:22.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by willie_gunn View Post
    Many thanks.

    I'd like to see the Benson when it comes back, as they are a make I always keep an eye open for.

    The only other one I have at the moment is this 9ct gold Dennison-cased example from (if I read the hallmarks correctly) 1950-51:







    The movement is very nicely finished, and though I can't make out any identifying marks it ticks away strongly.

    I agree with you that this was a great era for watches, and there are some lovely examples that can be picked up for what is very reasonable money. They have a real timeless elegance.
    *Your Benson is a Cyma movement with it's patent shock protection on the balance jewels.

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  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Webwatchmaker View Post
    *Your Benson is a Cyma movement with it's patent shock protection on the balance jewels.
    Brilliant - thank you Brendan!!

    Looks just like the Cyma 30

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by willie_gunn View Post
    Brilliant - thank you Brendan!!

    Looks just like the Cyma 30
    Yes. Could be Cyma 30. I have many old Cyma and Benson if you need anything. But I will need to look through hundreds of drawers to find them.

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  8. #8
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    Here's a shock WG, I have just found a movement similar to your Benson. Only mine is not shockproof, has no collared jewels or Geneva stripe finish and is marked REF.374 and is 23.63mm diameter. Definitely Cyma though.


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  9. #9
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    Great write up and wonderful to have 2 such historic brands on the dial.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Webwatchmaker View Post
    Here's a shock WG, I have just found a movement similar to your Benson. Only mine is not shockproof, has no collared jewels or Geneva stripe finish and is marked REF.374 and is 23.63mm diameter. Definitely Cyma though.
    That is so cool!

    I love the way that a movement could be tweaked and turned so that it could cover a multitude of models from basic to luxury.

  11. #11
    Craftsman Robbo12's Avatar
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    Great write up, I looked at this watch when it was on ebay and seriously considered it . I wasnt to sure about the hand replacements , so didnt buy. I know the seller said he had some other watches from his younger days ,did you manage to buy any of them ?

    Brendans done a wonderful job and Im glad someone on here got it , if I remember there were a good few bidders at the end.

  12. #12

    A Universal Geneve 138 now back in service

    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo12 View Post
    Great write up, I looked at this watch when it was on ebay and seriously considered it . I wasnt to sure about the hand replacements , so didnt buy. I know the seller said he had some other watches from his younger days ,did you manage to buy any of them ?

    Brendans done a wonderful job and Im glad someone on here got it , if I remember there were a good few bidders at the end.
    Many thanks.

    I’m very happy with it, and just pleased Brendan could get it sorted. He has serviced and repaired a wide variety of watches for me now, including bringing back several from the dead that I thought were beyond hope! His stock of old watches and parts is a treasure trove.

    Based on your comment above I had a look back at the listing, and this watch had just 8 bids from 6 bidders and the seller has only sold one other watch - an Enicar - since early November.

    So from the sound of it I’ll have to search out this other seller with watches from his younger days!
    Last edited by willie_gunn; 1st February 2020 at 09:24.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by willie_gunn View Post
    That is so cool!

    I love the way that a movement could be tweaked and turned so that it could cover a multitude of models from basic to luxury.
    There can be great variations in surface finish, jewelling and even the way the plates are cut, to suit the requests of movement customers. It can be hard to recognise the original movement. A number of Swiss metal refinishing companies specialise in this to please the makers of 'haute horologie'. Here are just two of many:


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    Last edited by Webwatchmaker; 1st February 2020 at 11:18.

  14. #14
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    There really are some amazing companies in Switzerland that make individual watch components. From mainsprings, hands and balances to wheels and plates. It is fascinating to watch (often Italian) machines manufacturing these parts. I should spend more time visiting these places when I am in CH. They are always happy to show you round, (by appointment). And they will often give you the 'inside' of how the industry is faring.
    Here is the main watch jewel maker:


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  15. #15
    Craftsman Robbo12's Avatar
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    The seller messaged me on eBay just checked , he said he was moving house and had a few more for sale once he sorted them out!
    He had your new watch and the Enicar, he may have decide to keep the others . I might drop him a message to see if he has anymore , I will let you know !

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Robbo12 View Post
    The seller messaged me on eBay just checked , he said he was moving house and had a few more for sale once he sorted them out!
    He had your new watch and the Enicar, he may have decide to keep the others . I might drop him a message to see if he has anymore , I will let you know !
    That would be super, thank you.

    If he has more watches like the UG then it will be worth keeping an eye open for them.

  17. #17
    Grand Master Carlton-Browne's Avatar
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    Well done on moving this forward. Funnily enough I have just taken delivery of a second UG JW Benson in a month. Mondatics seem to have suddenly become all of the rage on the UG forum and it's possible that I've slightly overpaid.



    Anyway - what colour are the hands on yours - the white balance makes it a little difficult to be certain? I've just had a look at my spares and I might be able to help you.






    It's a cal 139 so a central seconds version of the 138 - can you get Brendan to confirm if the hand sizes are the same. Obviously you'd also need to reconcile the colour match to your existing sub-second hand (and the dial indices).

    I have two bumpers going off for overhaul in the next few weeks and the two spare 138/139 movements will be going off with them as a potential source of spares. I can get the hands removed and ready to send and I'm sure the fundraiser can benefit if it all comes together. Let me know what you think.
    In the Sotadic Zone, apparently.

  18. #18
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    Great thread WG, love reading about these older watches, and nice work again from Brendan whose knowledge makes it all the more interesting.
    Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlton-Browne View Post
    Well done on moving this forward. Funnily enough I have just taken delivery of a second UG JW Benson in a month. Mondatics seem to have suddenly become all of the rage on the UG forum and it's possible that I've slightly overpaid.

    Anyway - what colour are the hands on yours - the white balance makes it a little difficult to be certain? I've just had a look at my spares and I might be able to help you.

    It's a cal 139 so a central seconds version of the 138 - can you get Brendan to confirm if the hand sizes are the same. Obviously you'd also need to reconcile the colour match to your existing sub-second hand (and the dial indices).

    I have two bumpers going off for overhaul in the next few weeks and the two spare 138/139 movements will be going off with them as a potential source of spares. I can get the hands removed and ready to send and I'm sure the fundraiser can benefit if it all comes together. Let me know what you think.
    That's very kind, thank you - the hands on mine are silver. I can measure the original minute hand tomorrow (Brendan returned it post-service).

    Ranfft says that the 138 and 139 share the same hand sizes (1.32 x 0.8), other than the seconds hand of course.

    That Mondatic looks lovely, particularly with the cyclops, and that collection of UG spares is something else!!

  20. #20
    Grand Master Carlton-Browne's Avatar
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    Ahem. There's more.





    The hands are yours if you want them - you just need to be happy with yellow gold minute & hour hands with silver indices and sub-seconds. As you might imagine I have one or two UG searches set up so I'll pm you if something even better comes up in the interim.
    In the Sotadic Zone, apparently.

  21. #21
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    Good to see the true spirit of help on the forum alive and well.
    The original hands were chrome plated steel, alpha pattern. The case and dial steel finish. I don't think gold plated hands would suit. The ones I supplied are a little short so I hope you find better ones.

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  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Carlton-Browne View Post
    Ahem. There's more.

    The hands are yours if you want them - you just need to be happy with yellow gold minute & hour hands with silver indices and sub-seconds. As you might imagine I have one or two UG searches set up so I'll pm you if something even better comes up in the interim.
    Wow - that really is some collection!!

    Thank you also for the incredibly generous offer of some spare hands, but with the dial markers and indices being silver I think I will hold out and see if I can find some matching ones. Hopefully some may turn up at some point, and in the meantime I will enjoy the watch as it is.

    Thank you again.

  23. #23
    Grand Master Carlton-Browne's Avatar
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    I've sent you a pm - cal 263 takes the same hand size.
    In the Sotadic Zone, apparently.

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