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Thread: Reshaping endlinks

  1. #1
    Master IAmATeaf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    NW London

    Reshaping endlinks

    Is there any particular way or method to reshape hollow endlinks? Iíve got 2 watches, 1 where the endlinks ride too high so they catch the bezel and another where one side is slightly lower than the other side.

    On the watch where they ride too high Iíve attempted to redo the endlinks but this seems to work for a while but eventually it spreads itself back to its previous form.

    Iíll try and get some pics tomorrow in the light.

  2. #2
    Why not have a small batch cnc milled, 3d printed or stamped out.

  3. #3
    Grand Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Wakefield, West Yorkshire
    Making small changes to end links to get a good fit is far more difficult than it first appears. A pair of small brass-faced pliers help, plus a diamond file for taking metal off if needed. I`ve know it take me over an hour to get a pair to fit properly.

    Bending the tabs on the back can help, ideally they should both be set the same. The trick is to look carefully and work out why the end piece isn`t fitting nicely, there's an element of trial and error and it's almost impossible to describe how to do it. Trying different thicknesses of springbars sometimes helps too, the endpiece should be free to slide but not loose. Sprinbars come in diameters of 1.35mm, 1.50 and 1.8, I often find 1.5 is best for bracelets.

    Have a look on the internet and find some brass-faced pliers, they're well worth having because they won't mark the steel.

  4. #4
    Craftsman martyloveswatches's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Zadar, Croatia
    You have aftermarket bracelet/endlinks? I use Z199 Uncle Seiko on my 7548 quartz. Very similar to SKX but not identical so it is not a perfect fit so maybe I will give it a go. Can you post a few photos?

    Poslano sa mog FRD-L09 koriste?i Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Northern Ireland
    I find the best place to start is to hold the endlink in the correct position in the lugs, without springbars, and observe how far the tabs underneath need to move. Then before you adjust anything, fit the endlinks alone (no bracelet) with springbars and see how this affects the top profile in the lugs. Effectively there are two elements that affect the fit or profile of the endlinks within the lugs - firstly, the springbars, if they are captured within the endlinks and secondly, the tabs that sit under the lugs. If the springbars are captured or held inside the endlinks adjust that bit first, then finally adjust the tabs.

  6. #6
    Master Onelasttime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Everywhere, yet nowhere...
    I spent an hour last night adjusting the hollow links on a Seiko jubilee. One side was absolutely perfect with no gap or movement, the other was so loose it would actually start riding over the lug.

    Simple job, I thought, just squash the tabs down a bit. Oh, how wrong was I? I got it in the end, but bloody hell, it drove me mad. And they both now 'pink' against the case but I'm not touching it again.

  7. #7
    Master dickbrowne's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Almost in the middle
    Been there, done that... Still bear the mental scars.

    In my case, if you'll pardon the pun, it was a bracelet for my Seamaster 60, which I love dearly, but I wanted the option to wear it on a bracelet as well as leather and tropic. I re-purposed a bracelet from a dress Omega of a similar age, but the end links were just a poor fit.

    I stretched the work over several days, the level of frustration was that great that I would feel myself getting careless and heavy-handed after 30 minutes or so, and thoguht it best to walk away until my mood improved.

    I got there eventually, but I'm still to scared to swap the bracelet out for a leather strap, so it's totally defeated the object of the exercise.

    As was stated above, gentle, small movements, lots of observation and more thought than action. Think about some sort of support for the thin end of the endlink whilst bending the other end - believe me when I say that that sorting the sort of metal distortion that can come from not doing this is horrible. Don't ask me how I know...

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