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Thread: I have bought a Panerai! How did that happen?

  1. #1
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    I have bought a Panerai! How did that happen?

    Over the years I have owned watches from most of the major and many of the micro brands and thought if I could put the aspects I liked from each together, what would the watch look like?

    My favourite type of watch is loosely termed sports, be it diver/pilot/military influenced in style.

    I also prefer no date, no crown guards, large black clear dial, no subdials, luminous hands and domed sapphire crystal preferably with no exterior AR coating to scratch.

    Water Resistant enough to wear whilst swimming, polished case for ease of hairline scratch removal, hand wound movement, a larger sized case over 42mm, sandwich dial and also some heritage behind the brand name/design. A clear case back to see the movement would be a bonus but only if the movement was worth seeing.

    I asked myself what brand produces watches that meet all of this criteria.......er.....Panerai.

    But I have never liked Panerai as a brand!

    Look at the Brooklyn Bridge fiasco when they supplied watches with undecorated base Unitas movements?
    But that was only 150 watches out of tens of thousands, the movements were replaced and all current movements are now in house.

    They lose a fortune from new!
    Buy a pre-owned one that has already taken the hit!

    Richemont service is terrible!
    Iíve spoken to a few owners whoíve never had a problem, whilst some have had genuine issues there are probably thousands that havenít, they just donít post about it online.
    There are also accredited repairers based in the UK that can be contact directly so it doesnít have to go to Switzerland.

    They are cutting quality and devaluing the brand with snap back cases and cheaper springbar strap fitment on some models.
    Rolex stopped having drilled lugs on some models and that didnít do them any harm.
    WR remains the same and the lower priced models now also have a quality in-house movement at no extra cost.

    They are a fashion watch!
    They are not in fashion at the moment which means I can afford to buy one.

    They go on about their heritage but arenít made in Italy!
    These days most luxury brands are foreign owned or produced.

    Their range is too large and confusing!
    Do some research, go on their website/watch forums and hone down the models according to the specific features that you want.

    Their watches are too big.
    Many models are sized to accurately reflect the original dimensions and have large movements that fill the case.

    They have made the Due which only has 30m water resistance!
    Donít buy a Due.

    Erm..... Archie Luxury doesnít like them!
    I think weíre clutching at straws here.

    Fair enough!

    So after finding the model that ticked all the boxes and a meeting with Andy ( Andyp1973 on this forum ) here we are, my Panerai Radiomir 425.

    I wonít go into detail about this models history and specification, there is already plenty on the internet, these are just just my initial thoughts

    What first grabs you is the size of the dial, with a slim bezel and no clutter, the large size and legibility is striking and purposeful. There is a beautiful symmetry of markings with this particular dial that is unique to the S.L.C models.

    The very lightly textured Matt finish of the dial, sandwich hour cuts and engraved logos are flawless. The Ďpigí logo is subtle and the pale brown lume ( that lasts until the morning ), compliments the rose gold hands perfectly. I like the fact that the hour hand has a divide in the lume so itís instantly identifiable from the minute hand at night. The Crown is nicely engraved with both a frosted and polished finish, itís not too large, doesnít dig in your wrist and is easy to grip and operate with the deeply ridged sides, it also winds very smoothly with solid clicks and no grinding. The giant domed sapphire crystal really encapsulates the vintage look.

    The case size is perfectly manageable on my 7 3/4Ēwrist with a good amount of space either side so no potential wrist overhang, although if my wrist was nearer to 7Ē Iíd probably consider a 45mm model. The complex shapes from the twin surfaced circular bezel edge to the converging cushion sides to the multi faceted case back are machined perfectly and mould together organically.

    Lugs can make or break a watch design in my eyes, especially larger watches and with the Radiomir bars, visually they hardly exist. The watch also sits very flat on the wrist and is amazingly comfortable for the size.

    Panerai are criticised for making their Watches too large however this is an accurate representation of the brands history, is needed to house the in house P3000, pocket watch sized, three day, double spring barrel movement ( visible through the sapphire crystal case back ) and any less would be comprise.

    With the combination of all these factors the watch ultimately feels very special when worn on the wrist and I certainly donít just look at it to tell the time.

    Obviously the styling of Panerai watches are not for everyone but if like me you have dismissed Panerai as a brand, I recommend buying one as a watch and you shouldnít be disappointed.

    Lee

    A few photographs of my new watch-





    Last edited by Lammylee; 21st January 2020 at 12:25.

  2. #2
    Master paneristi372's Avatar
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    The 425 is a beautiful and very underrated watch IMO. I owned one a few years ago and had it not been for the fact that I have a 232 I'd still have it. Stunning Radiomir. Congratulations.

  3. #3
    Journeyman
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    Lovely piece,congrats.

  4. #4
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by paneristi372 View Post
    The 425 is a beautiful and very underrated watch IMO. I owned one a few years ago and had it not been for the fact that I have a 232 I'd still have it. Stunning Radiomir. Congratulations.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzodog View Post
    Lovely piece,congrats.
    Thank you both, Iím really impressed with the quality and design!

  5. #5
    Craftsman konlew's Avatar
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    I wish you all the best as a Richemont Group Munich Service victim, who is waiting for his 372 (left for a simple maintenance) since the August. I will wait 2-3 more months - if all go well...

  6. #6
    Apprentice
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    Didn't really like the look of it in the static photo, but it looks really nice on your wrist.

    Great piece and one to be proud of owning.

  7. #7
    Master Nono's Avatar
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    Fantastic watch mate, congrats. And all you had sad is true for Panerai. No point having one, unless one ends up on your wrist. Then it's all downhill from there :)
    Happy strap hunting

  8. #8
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Happyal View Post
    Didn't really like the look of it in the static photo, but it looks really nice on your wrist.

    Great piece and one to be proud of owning.
    Thank you, despite being a large watch itís still very elegant

    Quote Originally Posted by Nono View Post
    Fantastic watch mate, congrats. And all you had sad is true for Panerai. No point having one, unless one ends up on your wrist. Then it's all downhill from there :)
    Happy strap hunting
    Thank you, very much, first strap change today



    Quote Originally Posted by konlew View Post
    I wish you all the best as a Richemont Group Munich Service victim, who is waiting for his 372 (left for a simple maintenance) since the August. I will wait 2-3 more months - if all go well...
    I will probably use a UK Panerai approved watchmaker, hopefully better service.

  9. #9
    Craftsman konlew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lammylee View Post
    I will probably use a UK Panerai approved watchmaker, hopefully better service.
    As far as I know, there is no Panerai approved watchmakers who have an access to inhouse movement parts. I've checked this carefully before I've dropped mine in AD, as a last choice, without any other options.

    Of course any skilled watchmaker would do the simple service, like cleaning and oiling the movement (big plates on P.3000 movement is a bit tricky to mount). But if any parts will be needed, you have to send it to Munich or Switzerland.

    I'm keeping my fingers crossed, that someday approved watchmakers will have access to parts, but looking on other brands policies - I doubt.

  10. #10
    Craftsman Andyp1973's Avatar
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    I have bought a Panerai! How did that happen?

    Great review.

    Panerais are a slippery slope because they have a habit of getting under your skin. I was without two for precisely ten days after weíííd met. Strap buying can be fun as well.

    Enjoy in good health Lee.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Andyp1973; 21st January 2020 at 20:05.

  11. #11
    Master
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    Looks fantastic congratulations on a great acquisition and a real classic. That’s my old watch I traded with Andy. I loved the alligator strap in the first photo. Enjoy it, doubt you’ll ever see another in the wild....
    Edited to add a nice Hodinkee story of a Radiomir that’s worth a read and a watch

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...igence-officer
    Last edited by Cat7; 21st January 2020 at 20:29.

  12. #12
    Grand Master Chris_in_the_UK's Avatar
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    Nice one Lee!
    When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........

  13. #13
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by konlew View Post
    As far as I know, there is no Panerai approved watchmakers who have an access to inhouse movement parts. I've checked this carefully before I've dropped mine in AD, as a last choice, without any other options.

    Of course any skilled watchmaker would do the simple service, like cleaning and oiling the movement (big plates on P.3000 movement is a bit tricky to mount). But if any parts will be needed, you have to send it to Munich or Switzerland.

    I'm keeping my fingers crossed, that someday approved watchmakers will have access to parts, but looking on other brands policies - I doubt.
    Itís a bit like owning a McClaren ( unfortunately not speaking from personal experience )
    Quote Originally Posted by Andyp1973 View Post
    Great review.

    Panerais are a slippery slope because they have a habit of getting under your skin. I was without two for precisely ten days after weíííd met. Strap buying can be fun as well.

    Enjoy in good health Lee.

    Thank you Andy it was good to meet up, your new purchase is stunning, love the dial!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Quote Originally Posted by Cat7 View Post
    Looks fantastic congratulations on a great acquisition and a real classic. That’s my old watch I traded with Andy. I loved the alligator strap in the first photo. Enjoy it, doubt you’ll ever see another in the wild....
    Edited to add a nice Hodinkee story of a Radiomir that’s worth a read and a watch

    Thank you for the link I will take a look. Also itís a real bonus to know the watches history

    https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...igence-officer
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris_in_the_UK View Post
    Nice one Lee!
    Thank you very much Chris

  14. #14
    Master subseastu's Avatar
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    I've never really been a fan of Panerai considering them to be ungainly but I really like the look of this one. Off to google

  15. #15
    Craftsman
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    That ticks so many boxes for me, stunning watch, great write up, congrats on a beautiful watch.

  16. #16
    Journeyman Pupp's Avatar
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    Another fan here; the 425 is a complete strap whore too. Looks great on everything! Very legible, as stated. A firm favourite.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using TZ-UK mobile app

  17. #17
    Craftsman
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    I think it would certainly appeal to people who are into handwound movements and display backs.

    ( yes some people are, I have 4 handwinders with 3 different movements and 3 display backs )

    My ones are considerably cheaper but if I had a professional job with a proper salary then yes Panerai I would be after.

  18. #18
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by subseastu View Post
    I've never really been a fan of Panerai considering them to be ungainly but I really like the look of this one. Off to google
    Itís surprisingly elegant considering itís case size.

    Quote Originally Posted by Desert_Weasel View Post
    That ticks so many boxes for me, stunning watch, great write up, congrats on a beautiful watch.
    Thank you very much, Iím really pleased that I gave the brand a try!

    Quote Originally Posted by Pupp View Post
    Another fan here; the 425 is a complete strap whore too. Looks great on everything! Very legible, as stated. A firm favourite.

    I think this model is Paneraiís modern Milisub.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using TZ-UK mobile app
    Quote Originally Posted by xellos99 View Post
    I think it would certainly appeal to people who are into handwound movements and display backs.

    ( yes some people are, I have 4 handwinders with 3 different movements and 3 display backs )

    My ones are considerably cheaper but if I had a professional job with a proper salary then yes Panerai I would be after.
    Hand wound are also my favourite, love my PRS-29b

  19. #19
    Craftsman
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    Great catch and Iím sure you will enjoy Panerai ownership. I started with Panerai and I have been around a few different brands and Iím now back with 2 of them.

  20. #20
    It almost feels like a dirty habit but I canít stop coming back to Panerai! 😂

    Beautiful watch and well chosen.

  21. #21
    Master Pitch3110's Avatar
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    Stunning piece. Congrats

    Pitch

  22. #22
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by neebsta View Post
    Great catch and Iím sure you will enjoy Panerai ownership. I started with Panerai and I have been around a few different brands and Iím now back with 2 of them.

    Quote Originally Posted by u35rm8 View Post
    It almost feels like a dirty habit but I canít stop coming back to Panerai! ūüėā

    Beautiful watch and well chosen.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pitch3110 View Post
    Stunning piece. Congrats

    Pitch
    Thank you all, happy with how this strap works with the hands and lume


  23. #23
    Master
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    So glad you bought that as I was almost going to cave. Have already had one and flipped to fund another.

    Panerai get under your skin. I'm not really interested in the slab sided 'Bettarini' cases but love all the others.

    There is a lot of history to Panerai, some contentious. The Paneristi are a special bunch and I have nothing but great things to say about Panerai staff, the London Boutique team and the head office folks I've met. The CEO is a character and passionate about the brand and the 'risti.

    Welcome to the crew and enjoy the watch, and straps...

    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

  24. #24
    My god that's gorgeous.

    When I had my one and only Panerai to date I didn't consider anything but the Luminor range. At the time I saw it as THE Panerai look. Eventually it was sold and I don't miss it. It was the 88. But as I've got older I've seen the beauty in these. In spite of its size it's massively elegant. Really beautiful. I love it. Maybe one day but I'm in sell to buy mode at the moment and I've my eye on something else!

  25. #25
    Master Lammylee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ASW1 View Post
    So glad you bought that as I was almost going to cave. Have already had one and flipped to fund another.

    Panerai get under your skin. I'm not really interested in the slab sided 'Bettarini' cases but love all the others.

    There is a lot of history to Panerai, some contentious. The Paneristi are a special bunch and I have nothing but great things to say about Panerai staff, the London Boutique team and the head office folks I've met. The CEO is a character and passionate about the brand and the 'risti.

    Welcome to the crew and enjoy the watch, and straps...

    Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk
    Thank you for the welcome, you certainly have an outstanding collection of straps! I have bought a Bergeon 1.4mm screwdriver for the changes and saw the handy tip on YouTube about not completely undoing the screws and screwing through sellotape to avoid scratches

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