The 425 is a beautiful and very underrated watch IMO. I owned one a few years ago and had it not been for the fact that I have a 232 I'd still have it. Stunning Radiomir. Congratulations.
Over the years I have owned watches from most of the major and many of the micro brands and thought if I could put the aspects I liked from each together, what would the watch look like?
My favourite type of watch is loosely termed sports, be it diver/pilot/military influenced in style.
I also prefer no date, no crown guards, large black clear dial, no subdials, luminous hands and domed sapphire crystal preferably with no exterior AR coating to scratch.
Water Resistant enough to wear whilst swimming, polished case for ease of hairline scratch removal, hand wound movement, a larger sized case over 42mm, sandwich dial and also some heritage behind the brand name/design. A clear case back to see the movement would be a bonus but only if the movement was worth seeing.
I asked myself what brand produces watches that meet all of this criteria.......er.....Panerai.
But I have never liked Panerai as a brand!
Look at the Brooklyn Bridge fiasco when they supplied watches with undecorated base Unitas movements?
But that was only 150 watches out of tens of thousands, the movements were replaced and all current movements are now in house.
They lose a fortune from new!
Buy a pre-owned one that has already taken the hit!
Richemont service is terrible!
I’ve spoken to a few owners who’ve never had a problem, whilst some have had genuine issues there are probably thousands that haven’t, they just don’t post about it online.
There are also accredited repairers based in the UK that can be contact directly so it doesn’t have to go to Switzerland.
They are cutting quality and devaluing the brand with snap back cases and cheaper springbar strap fitment on some models.
Rolex stopped having drilled lugs on some models and that didn’t do them any harm.
WR remains the same and the lower priced models now also have a quality in-house movement at no extra cost.
They are a fashion watch!
They are not in fashion at the moment which means I can afford to buy one.
They go on about their heritage but aren’t made in Italy!
These days most luxury brands are foreign owned or produced.
Their range is too large and confusing!
Do some research, go on their website/watch forums and hone down the models according to the specific features that you want.
Their watches are too big.
Many models are sized to accurately reflect the original dimensions and have large movements that fill the case.
They have made the Due which only has 30m water resistance!
Don’t buy a Due.
Erm..... Archie Luxury doesn’t like them!
I think we’re clutching at straws here.
Fair enough!
So after finding the model that ticked all the boxes and a meeting with Andy ( Andyp1973 on this forum ) here we are, my Panerai Radiomir 425.
I won’t go into detail about this models history and specification, there is already plenty on the internet, these are just just my initial thoughts
What first grabs you is the size of the dial, with a slim bezel and no clutter, the large size and legibility is striking and purposeful. There is a beautiful symmetry of markings with this particular dial that is unique to the S.L.C models.
The very lightly textured Matt finish of the dial, sandwich hour cuts and engraved logos are flawless. The ‘pig’ logo is subtle and the pale brown lume ( that lasts until the morning ), compliments the rose gold hands perfectly. I like the fact that the hour hand has a divide in the lume so it’s instantly identifiable from the minute hand at night. The Crown is nicely engraved with both a frosted and polished finish, it’s not too large, doesn’t dig in your wrist and is easy to grip and operate with the deeply ridged sides, it also winds very smoothly with solid clicks and no grinding. The giant domed sapphire crystal really encapsulates the vintage look.
The case size is perfectly manageable on my 7 3/4”wrist with a good amount of space either side so no potential wrist overhang, although if my wrist was nearer to 7” I’d probably consider a 45mm model. The complex shapes from the twin surfaced circular bezel edge to the converging cushion sides to the multi faceted case back are machined perfectly and mould together organically.
Lugs can make or break a watch design in my eyes, especially larger watches and with the Radiomir bars, visually they hardly exist. The watch also sits very flat on the wrist and is amazingly comfortable for the size.
Panerai are criticised for making their Watches too large however this is an accurate representation of the brands history, is needed to house the in house P3000, pocket watch sized, three day, double spring barrel movement ( visible through the sapphire crystal case back ) and any less would be comprise.
With the combination of all these factors the watch ultimately feels very special when worn on the wrist and I certainly don’t just look at it to tell the time.
Obviously the styling of Panerai watches are not for everyone but if like me you have dismissed Panerai as a brand, I recommend buying one as a watch and you shouldn’t be disappointed.
Lee
A few photographs of my new watch-
Last edited by Lammylee; 21st January 2020 at 12:25.
The 425 is a beautiful and very underrated watch IMO. I owned one a few years ago and had it not been for the fact that I have a 232 I'd still have it. Stunning Radiomir. Congratulations.
Lovely piece,congrats.
I wish you all the best as a Richemont Group Munich Service victim, who is waiting for his 372 (left for a simple maintenance) since the August. I will wait 2-3 more months - if all go well...
Didn't really like the look of it in the static photo, but it looks really nice on your wrist.
Great piece and one to be proud of owning.
Fantastic watch mate, congrats. And all you had sad is true for Panerai. No point having one, unless one ends up on your wrist. Then it's all downhill from there :)
Happy strap hunting
As far as I know, there is no Panerai approved watchmakers who have an access to inhouse movement parts. I've checked this carefully before I've dropped mine in AD, as a last choice, without any other options.
Of course any skilled watchmaker would do the simple service, like cleaning and oiling the movement (big plates on P.3000 movement is a bit tricky to mount). But if any parts will be needed, you have to send it to Munich or Switzerland.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed, that someday approved watchmakers will have access to parts, but looking on other brands policies - I doubt.
Great review.
Panerais are a slippery slope because they have a habit of getting under your skin. I was without two for precisely ten days after we’’’d met. Strap buying can be fun as well.
Enjoy in good health Lee.
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Last edited by Andyp1973; 21st January 2020 at 20:05.
Looks fantastic congratulations on a great acquisition and a real classic. That’s my old watch I traded with Andy. I loved the alligator strap in the first photo. Enjoy it, doubt you’ll ever see another in the wild....
Edited to add a nice Hodinkee story of a Radiomir that’s worth a read and a watch
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/th...igence-officer
Last edited by Cat7; 21st January 2020 at 20:29.
Nice one Lee!
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
I've never really been a fan of Panerai considering them to be ungainly but I really like the look of this one. Off to google
That ticks so many boxes for me, stunning watch, great write up, congrats on a beautiful watch.
Another fan here; the 425 is a complete strap whore too. Looks great on everything! Very legible, as stated. A firm favourite.
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I think it would certainly appeal to people who are into handwound movements and display backs.
( yes some people are, I have 4 handwinders with 3 different movements and 3 display backs )
My ones are considerably cheaper but if I had a professional job with a proper salary then yes Panerai I would be after.
Great catch and I’m sure you will enjoy Panerai ownership. I started with Panerai and I have been around a few different brands and I’m now back with 2 of them.
It almost feels like a dirty habit but I can’t stop coming back to Panerai! 😂
Beautiful watch and well chosen.
Stunning piece. Congrats
Pitch
So glad you bought that as I was almost going to cave. Have already had one and flipped to fund another.
Panerai get under your skin. I'm not really interested in the slab sided 'Bettarini' cases but love all the others.
There is a lot of history to Panerai, some contentious. The Paneristi are a special bunch and I have nothing but great things to say about Panerai staff, the London Boutique team and the head office folks I've met. The CEO is a character and passionate about the brand and the 'risti.
Welcome to the crew and enjoy the watch, and straps...
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My god that's gorgeous.
When I had my one and only Panerai to date I didn't consider anything but the Luminor range. At the time I saw it as THE Panerai look. Eventually it was sold and I don't miss it. It was the 88. But as I've got older I've seen the beauty in these. In spite of its size it's massively elegant. Really beautiful. I love it. Maybe one day but I'm in sell to buy mode at the moment and I've my eye on something else!