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Thread: Grand Seiko 25th Anniversary 9F GMT

  1. #1
    Master
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    Grand Seiko 25th Anniversary 9F GMT

    A few words on this festive incoming as I nearly missed this model, and it’s turned out to be a bit of a classic. It’s the SBGN007, the original 25th Anniversary version of the 9F quartz GMT, released in 2018 in an edition of 1200. It’s regulated to within 5 seconds a year, earning it an applied gold star underneath the GMT text.

    In typically GS style, the watch looks completely different as the time of day and lighting changes. The dial has a huge range of beautiful, deep jewel-like greens, and a subtle ‘GS9F’ texture that either catches the light, or can disappear completely. At times the dial turns such a deep, jet black, it’s like having two different watches.

    It’s 40mm, but due to Grand Seiko’s thoughtful design and curving lugs the fit is spot on, and better on a slim wrist than certain other 39mm watches, that have flatter lugs, no crown guards and larger dials and so can seem oversized. It’s also incredibly comfortable, at least once the bracelet is correctly adjusted - third time lucky but well worth the effort!

    As ever, GS are hard to photograph and can only really be understood in person and in motion. But it turns out that for me, it’s pretty much the ‘Goldilocks’ watch, the GS model that’s just right.




  2. #2
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    That’s lovely - such beautifully clean dial.

  3. #3
    Craftsman
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    Not sure about green dialled GS if I’m honest!



    Love it, congrats


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    I have the blue 009 version on the way !

  5. #5
    Master reggie747's Avatar
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    Yes, very nice indeed, well done.

  6. #6
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattH View Post
    I have the blue 009 version on the way !
    You’re in for a treat! I’ve tried many a GS and quite unexpectedly, this model turned out to be the one with perfect proportions - for my wrist anyway. Being a 9F it’s not too thick, but also has a slightly different case shape to the standard 40mm 9F (in the photo below) so it can accommodate the extra hand. It also wears surprisingly differently due to having more on the dial - the plain dial seems to wear a little larger.

    As I hinted I’ve also tried the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 a few times as well as the 39mm Explorer, and always came away finding they looked a little oversized on me, and worked better in 36mm. This isn’t a criticism of those watches, which are some of their best, but they do need a slightly larger wrist to sit well. However the 40mm 9F GMT works perfectly, due to a slightly smaller dial, the lug to lug length and the curved lugs. Essentially the Rolex are 39mm watches that wear larger, while the GS is a 40mm that wears a bit smaller.

    I also tried the blue dial 009 version, which like the 007 looks much more subtle than photos would suggest. The Seiko Quartz logo pattern is in reality a near invisible glossy highlight that appears in certain light. In photos the dials appear much busier than they really are. You only see one or two elements at a time depending on the light, as opposed to all of them at once in an over-lit picture. The range of unexpected effects revealed over days in different environments is one of the things that makes a GS special. Other watches change too of course, but the mirror polishing and layered dials of GS take it to another level.

    The GMT function is the icing on the cake and really completes the 9F, as an independently adjustable hour hand means there’s no need to set it twice a year when the clocks change or when travelling. Until such time as GS make a 10F perpetual calendar, these are a good candidate for the ultimate modern evolution of a classic style.

    This one is the standard 40mm - close but the GMT works much better.

  7. #7
    Master Wooster's Avatar
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    Here's a bit of a 'mine says Hi' moment :)


  8. #8
    Thanks for that - this will be my third quartz GS.

    My only bugbear is the lack of built in adjustment on the bracelets- but I think I have cracked
    the sizing on that as I like them snug and not too loose!

    If I get a chance a spring drive would be next (would love a snowflake)

    Cheers

    matt

  9. #9
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattH View Post
    Thanks for that - this will be my third quartz GS.

    My only bugbear is the lack of built in adjustment on the bracelets- but I think I have cracked
    the sizing on that as I like them snug and not too loose!

    If I get a chance a spring drive would be next (would love a snowflake)

    Cheers

    matt
    The sizing can be fiddly but I’ve realised the trick is to adjust the 12 o’clock end first and get the GS on the clasp centred on the wrist, making sure the curved part of the mechanism is in the right place to fit the curve of the wrist perfectly, with fingers extended. The half links are 2/3 links so it’s possible to adjust in 1/3 link increments. It took three goes to get it right and started off slightly too tight but now is perfect - not too loose or too tight and incredibly comfortable. They’re fairly hefty watches at 150g with all the links, and a lot of that is in the head, so you’ll notice if it’s not well balanced.

    One more picture as it’s now turned black for the evening!


  10. #10
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Itsguy View Post
    The sizing can be fiddly but I’ve realised the trick is to adjust the 12 o’clock end first and get the GS on the clasp centred on the wrist, making sure the curved part of the mechanism is in the right place to fit the curve of the wrist perfectly, with fingers extended. The half links are 2/3 links so it’s possible to adjust in 1/3 link increments. It took three goes to get it right and started off slightly too tight but now is perfect - not too loose or too tight and incredibly comfortable. They’re fairly hefty watches at 150g with all the links, and a lot of that is in the head, so you’ll notice if it’s not well balanced.

    One more picture as it’s now turned black for the evening!

    Nice, looks fantastic!


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by MattH View Post
    Thanks for that - this will be my third quartz GS.

    My only bugbear is the lack of built in adjustment on the bracelets- but I think I have cracked
    the sizing on that as I like them snug and not too loose!

    If I get a chance a spring drive would be next (would love a snowflake)

    Cheers

    matt

    I love GS, but can’t get on with their bracelets. Hopefully they’ll begin to look at the adjustability as they’ve got everything else so well sorted.

  12. #12
    Master
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    The 9F is a masterpiece of innovation. Everything made in-house, even the battery. Its independently sealed separately within the case for a 50 year service interval. The fit and finish and case design, coupled with innovative and highly detailed dials make GS stand out from the crowd.

  13. #13
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGJG View Post
    I love GS, but can’t get on with their bracelets. Hopefully they’ll begin to look at the adjustability as they’ve got everything else so well sorted.
    They’re certainly not the easiest to get right, but once correctly adjusted I’ve found them to be the most comfortable bracelets of all. Since they adjust in roughly 1/3 link increments via the shorter links, I’ve never needed micro adjustment on these bracelets, though I’m lucky in that the right fit turned out to use whole links only. Discovering this involved a fair amount of trial and error though, with the right tools, persistence, and a willingness to work with incredibly tiny screws.

    I suspect there are a lot of people who’s bracelets are not correctly adjusted, and correcting a weirdly adjusted pre-owned one can be bewildering. See earlier in the thread for some advice on getting them right - the key is to get the GS on the clasp centred, and make sure the curved part of the mechanism is perfectly following the curvature of the wrist on the right hand side. If there’s any discomfort at all, it’s probably too tight and / or the clasp isn’t sitting in the right place. It may be worth consulting their boutique. Some other brands are definitely easier to adjust, but I can honestly say that out of all the watches I’ve owned, the GS is the one that’s spot on. Maybe I’m just lucky, but having three goes at it until it felt completely right was also a big part of it.

  14. #14
    I tried it every which way on my GS bracelet (SBGX061), but ultimately I had to pass the watch on as it just wouldn’t work for me. Luckily the SBGX009 is on a leather strap 😎

  15. #15
    That looks really nice. When I’m not wearing a Garmin fenix I’m normally a dive watch all the way sort of person, but I really like the look of those. Must investigate further! Thanks for the review.

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
    The 9F is a masterpiece of innovation. Everything made in-house, even the battery. Its independently sealed separately within the case for a 50 year service interval. The fit and finish and case design, coupled with innovative and highly detailed dials make GS stand out from the crowd.
    I’m the world’s biggest fan on the 9F. I own one and have regulated it myself to ~0.0spy, which really is mind blowing. However:

    Quote Originally Posted by Tokyo Tokei View Post
    So ... bit of digging online at Seiko's Japanese website finds that there is a comment that the mechanics of the movement are enclosed within a sealed chamber, to prevent dust getting in or oil leaking out, when the back is removed for the battery change. It goes on to mention, parenthetically, that "in theory, it is thus protected by oil for 50 years"

    Not completely convinced that this is the same as "no servicing required for 50 years" but it probably accounts for the legend.

    The page is here if you want to run through your favourite mistranslator.

    Paul
    Quote Originally Posted by Tokyo Tokei View Post
    It was an attempt to fathom the origin of the oft-repeated ( on non-Japanese watch fora ) of "50 year service intervals" for Grand Seiko quartz. I was suggesting that Seiko have never claimed this, but that they do mention that the sealed main housing allows battery changes without exposing the movement parts to dust, or allowing oil to egress. They ( Seiko ) comment that in theory then, the oil could last 50 years. This is not the same as no servicing required in that time, clearly, but it may well be the origin of the legend.

    I like the watches, they are well made, and the "double pulse" tick does have a certain aloof authority.

    Paul

  17. #17
    Grand Master Der Amf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGJG View Post
    I’m the world’s biggest fan on the 9F. I own one and have regulated it myself to ~0.0spy, which really is mind blowing. However:
    Imagine how happy you'll be when they add a perpetual (or annual) calendar!

  18. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Der Amf View Post
    Imagine how happy you'll be when they add a perpetual (or annual) calendar!
    Yes please. But they’ll also need to sort the battery, as at 3 years life it’s less than the intercalary cycle ;)

  19. #19
    Just a quick pic of my 3 GS quartz

    Next decision is what sort of strap to get for the 2 tone... either black croc or maybe golden brown ?
    Really enjoying the GMT - lovely size and very comfy on the wrist.

    GS by Matt.H20, on Flickr

  20. #20
    Master reggie747's Avatar
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    All told, some very impressive collections of 2's and 3's herein.

  21. #21
    Craftsman dschaen81's Avatar
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    Very true, lovely pieces all of them!

    Quote Originally Posted by MattH View Post
    Next decision is what sort of strap to get for the 2 tone... either black croc or maybe golden brown ?
    I'd go with some form of medium brown as that would complement the warmth of the gold accents. Black would work as well, but that would look more stark and formal.
    I guess it depends on how casual you want it to be.

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