Fused spur query

[gavsw20]

Am looking to connect my projector screen to a fused spur but also need another socket to plug something else (TV) into.

The face-plate needs to be slate grey to match the rest of the room. Problem is the only one I can find is a 45a rated spur, not a 13a one.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-45a-2...-inserts/1700g

Would this be safe to use or not please?

[Pennywise]

Can’t just replace the fuse spur with a double socket in that range and put a plug top on the projector flex


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[adrianw]

most people would use that as a cooker switch. if you are handy why not chop in another box next to it.

I was taught that a spur is for a permanent device and a socket is for temporary.

[gavsw20]

Thanks both.

I’m ideally looking to ‘chase’ the projector cable in the wall so it’s not visible, hence why I was thinking a fused-spur.

Worse case I could get a single 13a one and another regular socket next to it. Only problem I’ll have is cutting out the back-boxes as the wall is made out of what looks like moon rock !!!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-s...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

[broxie]

That cooker spur box is not suitable as it's only a 45A switch with no fuse and needs it's own supply back to the consumer unit where a separate breaker is used for protection. If you used this, your projector would have no protection other than whatever trip you had back at the CU, very dangerous. An alternative is to chase your projector flex to come out of the wall adjacent to the power feed cable for a double box (preferably recessed as it looks better imho).

Bring the projector flex into the back box with the supply cable. Drill a hole in the bottom corner of the faceplate, away from where a plug would fit, to bring your projector flex out of (use a small grommet if the faceplate is metal). Then put a plug onto the projector lead (appropriately fused) and use the other free socket for your other stuff.

[gavsw20]

That cooker spur box is not suitable as it's only a 45A switch with no fuse and needs it's own supply back to the consumer unit where a separate breaker is used for protection. If you used this, your projector would have no protection other than whatever trip you had back at the CU, very dangerous. An alternative is to chase your projector flex to come out of the wall adjacent to the power feed cable for a double box (preferably recessed as it looks better imho).

Bring the projector flex into the back box with the supply cable. Drill a hole in the bottom corner of the faceplate, away from where a plug would fit, to bring your projector flex out of (use a small grommet if the faceplate is metal). Then put a plug onto the projector lead (appropriately fused) and use the other free socket for your other stuff.

Now that is a good idea, think this is the way forward for sure.

Thanks.

[adrianw]

That cooker spur box is not suitable as it's only a 45A switch with no fuse and needs it's own supply back to the consumer unit where a separate breaker is used for protection. If you used this, your projector would have no protection other than whatever trip you had back at the CU, very dangerous. An alternative is to chase your projector flex to come out of the wall adjacent to the power feed cable for a double box (preferably recessed as it looks better imho).

Bring the projector flex into the back box with the supply cable. Drill a hole in the bottom corner of the faceplate, away from where a plug would fit, to bring your projector flex out of (use a small grommet if the faceplate is metal). Then put a plug onto the projector lead (appropriately fused) and use the other free socket for your other stuff.

I am pretty sure that by making it a permeant device that would be against regs. it should be a switched spur.

[broxie]

I am pretty sure that by making it a permeant device that would be against regs. it should be a switched spur.

I'm not suggesting that at all. Projector flex comes through back box, out through hole in front of plate onto a plug plugged into one of the two sockets on that plate. The other socket free for other devices.

If the OP is chasing in a cable, I personally would be using T&E behind capping and putting the other end of it into a ceiling mounted spur/socket adjacent or above the projector where it can't be seen easily rather than bury flex in the wall. This is what I do for cooker hoods etc.

[Mr Pointy]

The proper way is to use a fused spur:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-s...-inserts/1679g
Feeding a dual socket:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-13a-2...-inserts/1940g

The problem you have is getting the PJ cable out of the wall so you could use a dual (not twin) back box to mount the fused spur & a blank plate & then drill a hole in the blank plate to bring the cable out of:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP666.html
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1-gan...e-effect/2540g

You might be able to modify one of these two to give you a ready-made hole:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-coaxi...-inserts/6178g
https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-maste...-inserts/9432g

If you mounted the spur-plus-blank below the dual socket the PJ cable could go straight into the plug socket.

There's a slightly more bodgetastic way of doing it which would work particularly well if you ran buried T&E & fitted an outlet near the PJ as has been suggested. Fit a triple back box like this:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AP335.html
& mount the fused spur, a single socket for the TV & a blank plate. Bring the buried PJ cable into the box & connect it to the output of the spur using Wagos behind the blanking plate. You would need to check those LAP faceplates fit the back boxes though.

[Bluehase284]

And the moon rock is likely to be concrete block - it will be relatively easy to chisel the back boxes into that.

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[gavsw20]

That cooker spur box is not suitable as it's only a 45A switch with no fuse and needs it's own supply back to the consumer unit where a separate breaker is used for protection. If you used this, your projector would have no protection other than whatever trip you had back at the CU, very dangerous. An alternative is to chase your projector flex to come out of the wall adjacent to the power feed cable for a double box (preferably recessed as it looks better imho).

Bring the projector flex into the back box with the supply cable. Drill a hole in the bottom corner of the faceplate, away from where a plug would fit, to bring your projector flex out of (use a small grommet if the faceplate is metal). Then put a plug onto the projector lead (appropriately fused) and use the other free socket for your other stuff.

Thanks for all the advice.

I’ve gone with the above approach and it’s worked perfectly (apart from breaking the first box when drilling). Looks good.

[lewie]

And the moon rock is likely to be concrete block - it will be relatively easy to chisel the back boxes into that.

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I've been rewiring my house and have found a scutch chisel has made the job a lot easier- the bricks in my house are really tough