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Thread: Stainless steel to Brushed

  1. #1

    Stainless steel to Brushed

    Guys, Brought a Omega Deployment to go with a Brushed Steel Speedy. They sent polished as that was all that was available at the time. Decided to go with it, but wondered if I can produce a brushed effect myself. I searched but there seems to be conflicting advise. Hope somebody can give me a definitive direction to go. thanks.

  2. #2
    Craftsman Robbo12's Avatar
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    Walkerwek just did a post explaining the process a couple of days ago , cant remember which post it was on off the top of my head . I think it was about a scratched watch bezel !

    From memory you will need to strip the buckle from the strap so you can use wet and dry on it. I have also read Scothbrite will work. You need a stick like missus emery boards. You can buy these they are called Buff Sticks , but I think a lolly stick with wet and dry paper wrapped or emery board is the same thing and cheaper/ less hassle !

    You will need different grades wet and dry or Scotchbrite start low grade example 800 and finish/ smooth with high grade example 1200 . If it was me I would get a load of different grades Halfords sell multipacks or local Car accessory places sell buy the sheet, then try say 1000 grit ,do half a dozen rubs then look . Whats it look like ,to deep to shallow then go up or down a grade for half a dozen rubs , check again . I would say that you need to clamp the work steady in a vice, so you can concentrate on full sweeps to get the brushed effect right to the edges. I would only go forward ( one way )with the paper/stick and not rub back and forth , this Im pretty confident will give you a terrible finish ! If you think in terms of how they do it at the factory on a polisher with a wheel or belt spinning one way only.

    Can you not get a used one from Ebay to save any dramas !

  3. #3
    Grand Master
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    Sorry, but the above advice is a mixed up misquote, some of the comments apply to polishing and rectification of damage, not to brushing or graining.

    A good brushed or light grained finish can be produced using 600 grit wet and dry, a blue Garryflex block, a medium Scotchbrite pad or a buflex wheel (or similar). Care must be taken to mask adjacent polished areas. Without seeing the clasp I can’t say how I’d tackle it.

    If there’s a raised Omega logo you can forget the wet and dry, you’ll never get an even finish, a buflex wheel or Scotchbrite would probably be best. I use a strip of Scotchbrite attached to a small flat piece of wood, final finish should be stroked in one direction, there’s a trick to this to get the finish dead straight and the abrasive must be moving BEFORE it touches the workpiece.

    Strongly recommend practicing on something with no value first, you have to get a feel for it and no amount of ‘advice’ (first hand or otherwise) can substitute for that.

    Might be a better idea to leave it polished?......or give it to someone who knows what they’re doing.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    Sorry, but the above advice is a mixed up misquote, some of the comments apply to polishing and rectification of damage, not to brushing or graining.

    A good brushed or light grained finish can be produced using 600 grit wet and dry, a blue Garryflex block, a medium Scotchbrite pad or a buflex wheel (or similar). Care must be taken to mask adjacent polished areas. Without seeing the clasp I can’t say how I’d tackle it.

    If there’s a raised Omega logo you can forget the wet and dry, you’ll never get an even finish, a buflex wheel or Scotchbrite would probably be best. I use a strip of Scotchbrite attached to a small flat piece of wood, final finish should be stroked in one direction, there’s a trick to this to get the finish dead straight and the abrasive must be moving BEFORE it touches the workpiece.

    Strongly recommend practicing on something with no value first, you have to get a feel for it and no amount of ‘advice’ (first hand or otherwise) can substitute for that.

    Might be a better idea to leave it polished?......or give it to someone who knows what they’re doing.

    thanks, Makes sense.

  5. #5
    Craftsman Robbo12's Avatar
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    Thanks for correction Walkerwek , I was trying to remember what you posted .

  6. #6
    Master dickbrowne's Avatar
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    Didn’t Bry make a jig for exactly this clasp - the biggest issue for me when refinishing clasps is keeping the lines parallel and straight, but the jig would make this a breeze.

  7. #7
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    Practice first!!
    Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Curtis View Post
    You should have got Omega to brush it for you as part of the deal. Too late now they've got you're money!

    Sent from my SM-G950F using TZ-UK mobile app
    Who said I brought it from omega ?

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