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Thread: Ideas to remove a rounded out torx bolt

  1. #1
    Craftsman
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    Ideas to remove a rounded out torx bolt

    Help! I have a seized size 45 torx bolt (and rounded out slightly now), which is recessed into a footpeg hanger, and bolts through into the engine on my KTM.

    I can't get access to cut a slot into it and I don't have a welder to try to tack something on it.

    I am going to buy an impact driver tomorrow and see if that will shift it but I suspect that the torx bit will shatter.

    Anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Journeyman
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    If you can, get some heat on it.....presumably its rounded ccw see if you can tighten it slightly this can sometimes break the crud thats holding it and it 'might" undo.

    If that doesn't work id get it to a garage and get something tacked on to undo it..again welding gets it hot and usually a bit of heat works a treat.

    If you go down the drill and extractor route be very carefull a broken off tool steel extractor in there adds a world of pain to a job.

    Good luck.

  3. #3
    Craftsman Jonboy's Avatar
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    Ideas to remove a rounded out torx bolt

    We get this quite often in the garage where I work. Fortunately there is a small engine and engineering specialist nearby who drills snapped/rounded head bolts out. I am sure there will be someone similar local to you.
    I wouldnt use an impact driver with a torx, it will do more damage and as you say, probably break the tip.
    I am sure you can buy a tool to bite into the torx recess, come to think of it. Google may be of use for that.

    ETA

    Search the following on screwfix, sorry I cant link it at the mo....

    LASER TX EXTRACTOR BIT SET 7 PIECES (6329F)
    Last edited by Jonboy; 19th November 2019 at 21:47.

  4. #4
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    Oh....just to add dip the torx bit in some valve grinding paste it will give some additional grip

  5. #5
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    I like the grinding paste tip, will give that a go. Had a look at the laser extractors but I am not sure they have a big enough size which is a shame.

    Thanks for the suggestions so far.

  6. #6
    Craftsman canuck's Avatar
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    Ideas to remove a rounded out torx bolt

    I would drive in a slightly bigger torx bit and try again... of course Id have it soaked with a suitable lubricant overnight and then a good few knocks on the end of the bit with a mallet to give it the best chance of loosening up.

    Youd be surprised by the number of boat motors (steel, aluminium and salt) where giving the bolts a good solid whack is enough to loosen them so that they will then turn.

  7. #7
    Master Mr Curta's Avatar
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    I've had some success with left hand thread taps.

  8. #8
    Master
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    The Torq recess gives you a good head start for drilling a central hole for a screw extractor so that's the route I'd take. Plenty of penetrating fluid beforehand, there are better things than WD40, you're local fastenings factor will have something.

    And copper grease when you put the new fastener in.

  9. #9
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    What about gluing the torx bit in the bolt head?


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  10. #10
    Have you tried running the engine for a bit before trying to get it out? Assuming the block will heat up and make it slightly easier to move.

    Is it well soaked with penetrating oil?

  11. #11
    Torx extractor set.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck View Post
    I would drive in a slightly bigger torx bit and try again... of course Id have it soaked with a suitable lubricant overnight and then a good few knocks on the end of the bit with a mallet to give it the best chance of loosening up.
    This has worked for me in the past.

    Pete

  13. #13
    Pound the bolt head with the end of a socket exentsion that will bring it back to size - works really well on cross heads too. I would do that first and impact driver - can also try to tighten with the driver to break it loose - you just want to get some movement out of it.

  14. #14
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    Ditto

    Quote Originally Posted by ptcoll View Post
    This has worked for me in the past.

    Pete
    If you try this make sure the bit goes in as straight as possible. Ive heard this stuff is very useful in getting good purchase on the bolt.

  15. #15
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by MB2 View Post
    Pound the bolt head with the end of a socket exentsion that will bring it back to size - works really well on cross heads too. I would do that first and impact driver - can also try to tighten with the driver to break it loose - you just want to get some movement out of it.
    As above but find the next size up torx bit or maybe allen head and bang it in the recess. If you grind the end of the bit flat it will help it to cut a new head in the bolt and doing this with an old style impact driver will give it twisting motion at the same time.

  16. #16
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    Some good replies, these two particularly are appealing as neither will cause damage that can't be overcome. And with some of the extra hard chemical metals the adhesive/gluing option might even work.

    Quote Originally Posted by stuie-t View Post
    What about gluing the torx bit in the bolt head?


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    Quote Originally Posted by Bry1975 View Post
    Torx extractor set.
    I would never use the lefthand thread type stud extractors, they are hardened, and hardened means brittle. And presuming the bolt is tight enough to round off the torx head in the bolt it's probably tight enough to snap the extractor. Snapped, hardened extractor =a world of trouble, believe me. I think the torx extractor sets look a different thing altogether.
    Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway.

  17. #17
    I would never use the lefthand thread type stud extractors, they are hardened, and hardened means brittle. And presuming the bolt is tight enough to round off the torx head in the bolt it's probably tight enough to snap the extractor. Snapped, hardened extractor =a world of trouble, believe me. I think the torx extractor sets look a different thing altogether.[/QUOTE]

    Left handed drill bits also work well as quite often they will stick and grab and spin the bolt loose and if not you have a hole for an extractor.

    If can get access to the side of the bolt head chiseling the bolt round with a centre punch or similar is very effective.

  18. #18
    Craftsman
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    Thanks everyone for all the tips, I will get the bike back together and run it about and get it hot, and then see if I can persuade the head back into shape enough to get a good purchase on the original size 45 bit.

    I really don't want to take it to for someone else to mess with.

    I will let you know how it goes.

  19. #19
    Master steptoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magpie215 View Post
    Oh....just to add dip the torx bit in some valve grinding paste it will give some additional grip

    Ezgrip. Works every time. had to use it this morning on a butchered cylinder head stud.


  20. #20

  21. #21
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    Ok, I decided to take a hit to pride and took the bike to a local motorcycle garage.

    I tried taking it out for a ride and then a few taps with an impact driver, but no joy.

    I pick the bike up at the weekend and will find out what they did to get it removed.

  22. #22
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    Soak area in Toolbox Buddy.

  23. #23
    Master sweets's Avatar
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    If it wasn't going to move, I would drill the head off, remove the part (footrest hanger??), leaving the exposed thread which you should be able to flatten and get some moles to grip on. You'd need a new Torx bolt at the end.

  24. #24
    Craftsman HookedSeven's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Curta View Post
    I've had some success with left hand thread taps.
    So have I... would be my recommendation.

  25. #25
    Master amnesia's Avatar
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    Freeze spray instead of heat

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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweets View Post
    If it wasn't going to move, I would drill the head off, remove the part (footrest hanger??), leaving the exposed thread which you should be able to flatten and get some moles to grip on. You'd need a new Torx bolt at the end.
    Typical with most problem fasteners for me - always the one that is in the worst place to do anything about it. The bolt went through hanger, via frame, then into engine case. Getting access to any protruding remnants would have been a no go unfortunately. Same for those vampliers, nothing to get a purchase on.

    Bike shops problem now, although it will cost me a bit for my over tightening *oc*-up, lesson learned (I hope).

  28. #28
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    Just had this pop up on Facebook

    May have been suggested already IMG_0729.jpg




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  29. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by J3w3ll3r View Post
    Just had this pop up on Facebook

    May have been suggested already IMG_0729.jpg




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    I remember being told there is no bad job an easy out can't make worse...

    That said they can work but you need to drill a hole first which is why I prefer LH drill bits but they should in my opinion only be used once all else has failed as there is no going back once start drilling even if can get access.

  30. #30
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by steptoe View Post
    Ezgrip. Works every time. had to use it this morning on a butchered cylinder head stud.

    My firm keeps this in stock right here in Halifax, we supply a fair bit to the military for removing fasteners without wrecking them. 3oz bottle delivered next day !

  31. #31
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    Im a bit late here but I have used elastic band to help get screws out. It sounds weird but works. You need an elastic band that is flat profile rather than a square profile.

    You put the elastic band in the rounded head so that the band is between the head and the screwdriver. Twist as normal. The band helps fill the rounded parts and also gives grip.

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