Gorgeous dial texture.
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Okay, the other incoming then – the Grand Seiko SBGK005, a limited edition of 1500 watches and already one that’s looking quite hard to get hold of.
First of all, wjhat does Grand Seiko have to say about it?
A bit more about the movement, and the specification in general:A new manual-winding calibre. A new slim profile. A blue dial. The Grand Seiko Elegance Collection sets a new course.
Calibre 9S63 is a significant addition to the ever growing Grand Seiko family of movements. It has been eight years since the last manual-winding mechanical calibre in Grand Seiko and it has been worth the wait. Calibre 9S63 offers a small seconds hand at the nine o’clock position and a power reserve indicator at three o’clock. Calibre 9S63 has a power reserve of 72 hours and delivers an accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds a day.
A new slim design with blue Mt. Iwate pattern dial. The stainless steel cases are polished by a special Zaratsu method created to accentuate the beauty of the curved surfaces. The dials and the sapphire crystals are also curved to give the watches a classic look.
Blue accents for the movement and the case back. The blue lion mark and tempered screws can be seen through the sapphire case back.
- Type: Manual winding mechanical 9S63
- Accuracy: +5 to -3 seconds per day
- Power reserve: Approximately 72 hours
- Vibrations: 28,800 vibrations per hour (8 beats per second)
- Jewels: 33 jewels
- Characteristics: Power reserve indicator, small seconds hand
- Crystal: Domed sapphire
- Strap: Crocodile with single-fold deployant clasp
- Water resistance: 3 bar
- Case: stainless steel with Zaratsu finish
- Dimensions: 39mm diameter, 11.6mm thickness, 19mm lug width
The SBGK005 is part of a new line of Grand Seiko “Elegance” models (these tend to be dressier and more classic than the other GS collections which, to my mind, can come across as a little too austere and clinical at times). Most of the case is mirror (Zaratsu) polished, with only the central facet of the midcase brushed. Transitions between components are delineated either by razor sharp edges (for instance, where the bezel meets the case) or radiused curves (in the case of the lug shape), with the reflections emphasising the changes in geometry.
The 9S63 movement is Grand Seiko’s first new manual-winding calibre in eight years, but it actually builds on the well-established architecture of the tried and tested 9S64. It features a small seconds complication at 9 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3; the movement boasts 72 hours of power reserve on a full wind, and the accuracy is rated to +5/-3 seconds a day. It has 33 jewels and a beat rate of 28,800 bph.
However, whilst both the case and the movement are impressive this watch is really all about the dial. Whilst it isn’t lacquered like some of the other variants in the new line-up, it shares their finish in boasting a surface that’s intended to symbolise the texture of Japan's Mt. Iwate. Whilst it’s quite hard to photograph (because of the domed crystal rather than the dial itself) it really is nothing short of spectacular in the metal.
So, on that note to the photographs… with apologies for not really producing the quality of image that I was looking for. It transpired that the crystal – when under my lights – presented a challenge that I didn’t quite have the time yesterday evening to overcome but perhaps I’ll have another shot at it at some point soon. .
Gorgeous dial texture.
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The detail on that dial is superb!
Yes, the dial is very nice, but I have to say your last picture picks up the texture on the hands superbly. I wasn't expecting that.
I also like this dial layout, it's different but works quite well in balancing out the power reserve. No doubt Seiko will do quite a few variants and will be nice to see how they push the boat on the dial structure.
Enjoy the watch Tony!
I've been looking forward to these photos Tony and they don't disappoint. This one in particular captures the dial like no other image I've seen:
Personally I love the curvature of the crystal but that is very hard to capture. I also like the power reserve feature, it's very useful and makes winding the watch a joy.
I have to say I'm seriously considering keeping mine. I've had three previous GS and regret letting each of them go so I guess I should learn from that.
I love the new line of grand Seikos, I really think they have momentum. I especially love this one! Just look at that dial and hands.
I have regretted selling a few watches and for sure this is one of them.
Hate to use these words but the detail on the both the main and seconds hand is just exquisite.
I’m not normally a fan of these dark pictures but these do show the watch off and shows off the curve of the crystal too.
Striking photos to put it mildly. Beautiful watch and one I was really keen to see you put some photos of this up as unlike the ALS this is attainable for me. I saw one in the London boutique and nearly tried it on. In two minds now as I knew if I tried it on I probably would have bought it. The one on SC right now is tempting.
Stunning watch and superb photos as ever Tony. Can't decide which I prefer between this and the one Kash sold the other day, but have always been a sucker for Blue dials so 👍
Amazing watch. At that price point only Minase beats them for finishing (not surprising as they make the machines Seiko use for their Zaratsu polishing) and when it comes to dialwork Grand Seiko is second to nobody at the £20k or less level. Superb
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Amazing dial, great looking watch.
This is rather nice.
generally I much prefer the 'old' Grand Seiko dial lettering but this really works nice here. also the PR is much better then on most GS. Feels like its meant to be there, not just happenstance as on many other models.
Dauphine hands do work so much better with sub-seconds. A magnificent watch!
A-m-a-z-i-n-g. Thank you Tony.
Beautiful watch! Love the hands and the dial. And spectacular pictures as well.
On a separate note, you said you took the lights out. Did you forget to use them? 😂😂
Marvellous, love that.
Stunning, stunning watch.
But, and I hate to be the dissenting voice, but I’m not sure I get the 72hr power reserve and power indicator. Isn’t the point of a hand wind watch, to do just that. And in that context most people will wind daily so a 72hr power reserve and indicator seem redundant?
But I can’t argue with the fact that it’s a stunning looking piece and the finishing just looks exquisite.
Lovely catch Tony. Hope it gives many hours of enjoyment.
Lovely watch, and epic photos as ever. There really is nothing to touch the super-crisp level of finishing on hands, indices and dial texture on GS watches, and this one in particular. That radial pattern looks like it is a living thing.
Dave
I always thought that one would make its way into your stash, T.
Lovely pics and a watch that suits your collection down to the ground.
Totally Mint.
Superb watch and shots. That dial isvery special
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How would you compare this to a present Rolex DJ in terms of quality, finish and movement technology?
Just curious.
I've owned this watch and also a DJ41. First thing to say is that they are totally different watches - the DJ is an all rounder on bracelet whereas the Seiko is a very dressy piece on a strap and you wouldn't take it near water or play sports in it. From a finishing perspective the dial, hands and indices of the Seiko are in a different league than the Rolex. The case is lovely and curved which gives it a very organic feel on the wrist whereas the Rolex is the traditional Oyster shape so whilst the Seiko case is more complex you can't say it is 'better' than the Rolex as the Rolex is sticking to its tried and tested design DNA. Movement wise this Seiko has the new 72 hour manual wind power reserve which is a superb movement and makes the case profile much thinner. So to answer your question the fit and finish of the Seiko is more intricate and ornate compared to the DJ and the levels of craftsmanship are much higher. But that's kind of expected on such a dressy piece and the Rolex is more of a sporty all rounder where the selling points are ruggedness. I don't feel the Rolex comes close in a beauty parade but that is a very subjective opinion.
Very nice as well. As always, you are leading, not following.
Someone who lies about the little things will lie about the big things too.
Yep, these are tremendous GSs. Stellar choice
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I popped into the Seiko boutique in Burlington Arcade yesterday to try one of these on. The dial is incredible and it wears very well due to the shape of the lugs. I forgot to ask, but do you have any idea if the boutiques are offering discounts?
I'm a recent GS convert. This looks stunning.
That really is lovely Tony and wonderful pictures as ever.
Im sorry if I’ve missed it but is it a solid caseback or can you see the movement?
Ian
That watch is stunning Tony!
Boutique no unless you are a previous big spender but you should be able to get 10 to 15% off at an AD. BUT obviously when they are sold out they are sold out and I don't think this is one of those GS pieces you are going to see offered at £4k in a year or so I think the secondary price will be near RRP. It is a superb watch and I miss mine.
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Great choice, I tried one of these on last year in the boutique in New York and loved it.
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That really is very nice. I like so much of the GS range, it is hard to know which one to pick! Thanks for the amazing shots of the dial, it is really nice to see the detail.
Strangely they’re easily available in both GS boutiques in London and at a couple of authorised dealers, despite the limited numbers. Presumably the 6.6k asking price is a little steep...I know it is for me! Superb piece and I hope you’re wrong about secondary value - at £4K it’d be an exceptional buy. Having handled it alongside a classic snowflake and the SBGA407, it’s my favourite by a long way.
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That is a lovely thing! Guess they’re hard to get hold of..
Am I nuts for considering selling my 14060m to fund one of these?
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Lovely lovely piece !
That looks amazing. Congrats
Beautiful piece, well done and congratulations OP