36mm (or slightly larger) vintage Omega Seamasters

[AlphaOmega]

Hi all

Aside from the odd vintage Heuer that I've bought from Stewart (ex of this parish), my watches have almost all been relatively recent Omegas. My interest in them is beginning to wane though. However, I quite like the recent Seamaster 600 (think it was late 60s) on SC. I was wondering:

a) if there's a 36mm or slightly larger equivalent

b) what sort of price such a watch might be

There seems to be quite a disparity in price online.

If you have examples in your collection you could post pics of that would be useful (or direct me to a thread if I've missed it).

TIA

AO

[Robbo12]

I dont think there is any vintage Omega bigger than 36 mm that I know of, in the dress style of the seamaster 600 . I can only suggest maybe looking at 50s models 30 T ,265 cal ,266 cal ect ect ...

IMOP its all about how the watch looks on the wrist , as an example I have a Seamaster 30 only a 30 mm movement but it wears bigger than my 58 Seamaster Auto !

You really need to go to a shop or watch fair that has a few different case ref that you can try on. Concerning price its all about the condition. You will always pay more for a collector grade ,really good condition original dial watch , than one with blunt case from too much polishing and a refinished dial with a non original movement.

You really need to research the hell out of it so you know what your looking at . Are you in the Uk ? as there is another watch fair coming up at the start of Dec , there will be some of the sellers at the fair who I met at this weekends fair, plenty of vintage omegas, longines and it would be a good opportunity for you to try out some watches all in one place!

[Der Amf]

In the fifties Omega did "oversize" dress watches, such as these two 37mm watches currently on sale in Austin Kaye. Rare, and desirable for modern calorie regimes, they command a fat premium.

[walkerwek1958]

I`ve been a fan of vintage Omegas for 20+ years, and it's only over the past few years that size (or lack of) has become an issue.

These watches are what they are. In the same way my MGB is only 5' wide and 12'10 long, compared to a modern equivalent it's a foot too narrow and a couple of feet too short, but it is what it is, if you like classic cars you accept they were smaller and the same goes for watches, trying to 'force fit' a vintage watch to meet modern trends and fashions is a fools errand in my opinion. You either like them for what they are, or you don't. 34mm was pretty much a standard size, a few are slightly smaller and some are around 35mm. The 168.023 is the biggest of the traditional 60s Omegas at 36.5mm, I own one and frankly I think it would look nicer if it was a tad smaller. Thhe oversize 50s models that Der Amf refers to are rare beasts, they always looked a bit odd to me but today's buyers will pay a premium for them (wrongly in my opinion)

Many of these watches have very slim bezels so they tend to look bigger at a glance when they're on the wrist.....but why should that have to matter?

Just cased up a 168.005 steel pie-pan Constellation this evening, not my watch, it belongs to a forum member and it looks superb. These old watches have something the modern ones lack, but you have to accept they are small by modern standards. It's a bit like moaning about low beamed ceilings in a 17th century cottage, or the smell of cowshit in the countryside.

[Ukboweldoc]

As lovely as that honeycomb dialled Omega is.... £4K feels a tad overpriced.

[Der Amf]

As lovely as that honeycomb dialled Omega is.... £4K feels a tad overpriced.

Theres also a very nice 34mm one, again in 18k, for £1.5k less. Some of that is condition, but more is the magic word "oversize".

[ollipekka]

168.022 and 168.023 come to my mind. They are 36,5mm and come with cal 564/751 movement. My favorite to wear. About 400-1200€ depending on condition. They also have non chronometer versions

[Ukboweldoc]

Theres also a very nice 34mm one, again in 18k, for £1.5k less. Some of that is condition, but more is the magic word "oversize".

I’ve got beautiful 18k Omega bumper (34mm) watch that I bought from Paul here. It’s utterly stunning, but alas it’s too small for my wrist.
I suppose I’m making the case for the oversized versions..... no pun intended !

[Robbo12]

@ UKboweldoc pictures are required for that beauty I bet that is stunning, smallish and discrete ! and every time you move your arm a little thump !

[walkerwek1958]

I’ve got beautiful 18k Omega bumper (34mm) watch that I bought from Paul here. It’s utterly stunning, but alas it’s too small for my wrist.
I suppose I’m making the case for the oversized versions..... no pun intended !

Thought you’d sold that one!

It is rather nice.

[11erv]

Try a ref 2639, pre Seamaster, but 36mm

[AlphaOmega]

Thanks all.

You're right about the perception of size.

Perhaps 34mm would be fine, I should try a few. Thinking about modern comparisons, the Speedie Reduced looked too small on my wrist because I was used to wearing a Speedie Sapphire. In isolation I should imagine it would have been fine.

[timor54]

Just been alerted on another forum to this

https://www.finewatchclub.co.uk/

No affiliation or experience, but looks like they’ve got a good selection of vintage Omega’s

[Ukboweldoc]

Thought you’d sold that one!

It is rather nice.

Afraid not Paul - had some fleeting interest over the last 12 mths, but it stays in the safe for now

[AlphaOmega]

Thanks timor

[mr.chef]

Just been alerted on another forum to this

https://www.finewatchclub.co.uk/

No affiliation or experience, but looks like they’ve got a good selection of vintage Omega’s

I would avoid this seller like the plague

[Padders]

168.022 and 168.023 come to my mind. They are 36,5mm and come with cal 564/751 movement. My favorite to wear. About 400-1200€ depending on condition. They also have non chronometer versions

I quite agree, there are very few 36mm or greater Omegas pre 1970 but one that stands out is the model mentioned above and its non chronometer rated cousin the 166.032, shown below (this ones from 1969). The sparkle dial models like this wear very well.

Many of the 1950s fat lug Seamasters are 35mm so nearly on target too by the way. This includes the 2577 and 2486 models.

[Robbo12]

I agree

[Jdh1]

I think I’m wearing the watch that initiated this thread. They wear bigger than the size would suggest but would probably look lost on an 8” wrist




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[AlphaOmega]

Thanks for the warning (and to those who PM'd me).

Padders, that looks just the ticket.

Jdh1, yes, and it actually looks ideally sized on you (tries to refrain from adding standard statement about being next in queue when you get tired of it etc.).

[walkerwek1958]

Here's the 1947 18ct rose gold bumper I sold, now owned by Simon (Ukboweldoc)

png image upload

Here's my 166.032 or 168.023, caseback has both refs in and I can never remember which is right:



Here's the Seamaster 600 I sold recently, with a refinished dial it wouldn't suit the purists but as a nice sharp waterproof vintage dress-watch iit ticked the boxes for both me and the new owner!

[timor54]

I would avoid this seller like the plague

Why?

[mr.chef]

Why?

Bs descriptions, ludicrous prices and badly restored pieces. Most of the watches they sell have lost their collector value after passing through their hands. Why did you recommend them?

[timor54]

Bs descriptions, ludicrous prices and badly restored pieces. Most of the watches they sell have lost their collector value after passing through their hands. Why did you recommend them?

I’m not recommending them. As I stated I’ve got no experience or interest in them.

The website was drawn to my attention on another forum and I just thought it might be relevant to this thread discussion.

Have you had any dealings with them to backup your criticisms?

[walkerwek1958]

Had a quick glance at this site, the watches look expensive to me but that applies to most dealers.

Paying a premium price is more justifiable if the watch has been restored to a high level, but often there’s a lack of transparency and it isn’t clear what has and hasn’t been done. I visit London once/year and I usually press my face against Austin Kaye’s window, their prices are high but the majority of what they sell is excellent, and a lot have recent serviced history from Omega. OK, the prices high but you’re getting a too quality example. Some watches have refinished dials, which won’t suit everyone, but they always have plenty of nice original stuff, or watches that have had genuine Omega replacement dials.

It’s becoming almost impossible for guys like me to buy Omegas as ‘fixer uppers’, restore them to a high standard, and sell them on. Case parts are the problem, crowns are now getting v. hard to find, handsets are worse, and genuine Omega glasses are starting to dry up. Even the modern- style Omega buckles are now listed by Cousins as ‘restricted’. The rose- gold one in my picture is now unavailable, in theory the Omega Boutiques should sell them but I gave up trying with the one in Leeds! If I restore one to sell I like to fit a new Omega crown (or new seal in the original), a new Omega crystal, replacement hands if needed, a decent strap and an Omega buckle. The movement parts aren’t usually a problem although my stash is limited and getting harder to replenish.

If I’d had a crystal ball in 2013, prior to Swatch Group deciding not to sell parts to wholesalers, I would've invested a few £££ in Omega parts, it was easy to get stuff and prices were still sensible. Same applies to the watches, it was viable to buy them as fixer uppers but usually it isn’t now. In 2014 I bought a few scruffy gold- plated watches for the movements and parts at auction, I paid around £90 each and winced a bit, but nowadays those same watches would cost at least double.

Swatch Groups restriction on parts is like a ratchet that’s tightened. Wholesalers supplies ceased in 2014 and remaining stocks are now dwindling on the popular stuff. I’ve seen a marked deterioration in the last 12 months, with more parts being listed as ‘restricted’, meaning Swatch won’t supply as opposed to ‘obsolete’ where the parts were no longer available prior to 2014.

I spent a couple of hours last week trying to source a rose-gold crown for a Seamaster 30, I gave up in the end, it’s a shame because it’s what the watch needs but I’ll end up fitting a generic unsigned crown if the owner wants the watch to be waterproof. It’s frustrating to say the least.

[mr.chef]

I’m not recommending them. As I stated I’ve got no experience or interest in them.

The website was drawn to my attention on another forum and I just thought it might be relevant to this thread discussion.

Have you had any dealings with them to backup your criticisms?

Why would I need to have had any dealings with them the to critique their watches? The photos and prices are clear to see. Anyone with an ounce of knowledge will read through the bs. Are you sure your not connected as your getting defensive when you supposedly have no link to them.

[timor54]

Why would I need to have had any dealings with them the to critique their watches? The photos and prices are clear to see. Anyone with an ounce of knowledge will read through the bs. Are you sure your not connected as your getting defensive when you supposedly have no link to them.

I give up

[Neil.C]

I like vintage Omegas/Seamasters and if you are after bigger versions they used to case up a lot of South American versions in larger cases.

A chap I used to see would get out to SA and buy lots of the big solid gold models.

[walkerwek1958]

Some watches were cased locally in the 50s and 60s and some cases were specific to certain markets. I didn't know south America was a market where this happened.

I have a 1960 18ct yellow gold Seamaster I bought from Italy, the case on that one's a bit unusual but it's got an Omega case number. The colour of the gold is more 'yellow' than most.

I also have a 1958 hand-wound cal 420 Seamaster with a steel Dennison English-made case, that's awaiting a new bezel being made. I took that in trade against a repair job, the plan was to fix it up and sell it, but the cost of the new bezel will scupper that and it'll just about wipe it's face costwise.....new custom-made bezels aren't cheap, lesson learned, and second-hand replacements are non-existent.

If anyone ever considers buying a vintage watch without a bezel, think again!

[Johnnya71]

I think I’m wearing the watch that initiated this thread. They wear bigger than the size would suggest but would probably look lost on an 8” wrist




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That’s a pretty watch


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[mark.wilo13]

That’s a pretty watch


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Snap!


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