Reply With QuoteI’d be wanting concreted posts. Those metpost spikes seem to flex and are hard to get a straight post.
In the process of getting some new fencing and I've had a few quotes, my neighbour asked if they would be using spikes or concrete, said I wasn't sure, its a basic wood fence with 4x4 posts, are spikes (met posts) better to use? If so I'll make sure they use them?
I’d be wanting concreted posts. Those metpost spikes seem to flex and are hard to get a straight post.
Had a fence replaced recently, and was advised to get concrete slotted posts, fixed with concrete in the ground. This way as the wooden fence in the years rots or gets damaged, it is very simple to slide a new one in, as the posts will not have moved at all. With wooden posts met fixed very often you have to chage it all every few years.
Concrete studs give you 95% of the wood fence look and won't rot or rust in the ground. A slotted concrete post doesn't have to shift much to make fitting a new panel very difficult.
We had met posts with 5’ fence, eventually the wind was slowly pushing the fence over. Changed to concrete 4 years ago and still standing upright. Also easy to replace a fence panel if needed.
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Thanks all for the pointers but it is simple wooden post's I'm using for this one only. I'm not too sure which would be best so thought to ask. I'll ask the guy who is going to put it up whether I should get the spikes?
I'd say no, use concrete (or postcrete actually). Metposts are a bodge as it's harder to get the posts vertical & in line & they don't hold the fence as well over time.Originally Posted by Martylaa
Said better than me, but this. I’ve done both and those metposts are awful.
ok thanks for that, I'll just tell them to use the concrete mix then.
Defo concrete.
Posts either vertically slotted or with the other arris rail type hole.
Posts are then for life and replace timber fencing as required. All wood looks great but 5yrs and the timber posts are shot.
Concrete, concrete gravel boards and slot in panels
I FEEL LIKE I'M DIAGONALLY PARKED IN A PARALLEL UNIVERSE
Concrete all the way, just make sure to go deep enough. Father in laws fence has just fallen over due to the post only being 6 inches deep into the ground...
A lot depends on location aesthetically I’d say. We recently had a fence renewed with pressure treated posts concreted into ground. That what was recommended by the contractor and looks good in our situation.
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Last edited by ALindsay; 4th October 2019 at 18:21.
Totally agree, you can’t go wrong with this approach. The gravel boards keep the wooden fence off the ground so there is much less propensity to rot.
When you eventually have to replace the fence panels its a very easy job.
If its a standard 6 foot fence. hit and miss feather-board or whatever finish you are after. up here its about £70 ish a meter with a 50-50 split labour materials if you do it yourself. make sure you get good quality pressure treated for ground contact materials.
best really to get 600mm deep holes with a 8 foot 4x4 flat square post in a semi dry concrete mix or just post mix depending on the size of the job and if its worth going to the quarry for readymix. i have put fences up 15 years ago and the are still there going strong.
Thats about my two pence worth
Thanks for that, I have had 3 quotes going from the ridiculous to very good quote and the quote I'm happy with is the one who has done a fence 2 doors up (which looks really good, is still going strong and the neighbours were very happy with them) and has the best reviews online for my area.
I'll emphasise the depth of the holes but hopefully I won't have to...
Concrete slotted posts with gravel boards at the bottom. Post won't shift mich if at all and the wood panels are raised above the ground so won't rot as quickly.
Do it right once or do it slightly cheaper but several times, wooden posts are money thrown in the bin IMO.
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+1, do it right and do it once. I’ve built fences by setting wooden fence posts in concrete in the past and I wouldn’t do it again. Spend a bit more, pay someone to do it and get it right. Took me a few years to learn this!
Forgot to say its a curved fence hence the fact it'll be wooden posts and slats, panels wouldn't work on this one...
Timber in the ground, your wasting your time and money...
Do not use wooden posts. Do not use metposts.
^^^this
Do it properly and you’ll do it once
Slotted concrete posts with sufficient height for concrete gravel board then decent fence panels like Jacksons, not crap from the sheds or garden centres.
I have a boundary hedge with wooden posts that had been concreted into the ground. Now most of the posts are rotten and broken at ground level and I have the job of digging out huge amounts of concrete before I replace the posts.
Bought new posts and metal spikes last year - fully expect to have completed the work by the end of the century :-)
An awful job. Why not use the concrete repair studs and bolt the existing posts to them?
Forgot to add, buy a post auger, under £20 and makes digging the holes a breeze. Also keeps the holes small so the postcrete goes further. Very easy job to DIY.
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Just replaced my garden fence,used postcrete it’s a doddle to do.Bought a post hole borer for £20.00 from machinemart,saves a lot of back breaking digging.
Would echo the comments about using concrete posts. Another tip for anyone doing it themselves - hire a post puller. Amazing bit of kit and saves a ridiculous amount of time (and effort!).
The holes should be only 250mm square. If you want to lift the concrete out pain of a job. Best to offset the first post then back to half rail length. No one will ever notice as some adjustment is always needed at the end.
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I use thick concrete, quite a dry mix and really pack it down well, and then a special little spirit levels designed for posts to get them bang on level
If it works go with it.
I would say better with a long level and get an average over the whole length for plum.
If it looks good it is good. As these usually show boundaries you seldom get a good sighting after it up so 5mm or so is not noticeable really
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Why a quite dry mix ?
Concrete all day long for me
You use a dry mix so the post does not move much as you pour in.
Then it allows you to pack it down with your heel to align with the string and get plum.
In general
1 hold post plumb and close to string2-3mm off
2 pour semi dry 20-20 mix
3 level and align post to string
4 let go of post with the dry mix now packed it will stand by itself
5 do next post
Never had a problem with this method
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Wooden posts cast into concrete is the best option for a full wooden fence.
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Until they rot, which they will
Indeed, but the question was given the use of a wooden post, is mounting into concrete or a metal spike better.
Of those 2 concrete is preferable to me.
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I had some fencing done recently. £110 per panel including slotted concrete post, 1' concrete gravel board and 5' closeboard fence panels (and removal of all the old panels and posts). I wouldn't choose wodden posts.
They put the first post in, and then ran a string line to the top of the farthest post, giving themselves a level line to work to. Seems obvious, but you might not think of it.
After a very, very long time (25 years+) if you put treated 4x4 fence posts in 2 feet holes with concrete sloping away from the post, so the rain drains away from the post.
Also throw some gravel in the bottom of the hole to stop the post coming in contact with the earth.
If you do all of the above no part of the post is in contact with the wet earth and they’ll last forever.
Metaposts = half arsed job
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