'Art deco' rectangular/curvex watches - thoughts?

[tommyzzj]

I used to think these long rectangular watches are hideous - my thoughts had changed completely in the past few months for some reason. I've been obsessed with the Cartier tank cintree, the later americaine, and some Gruen and bulova watches with similar style. Any owners here? would love to know how they wear on a daily basis. Would also appreciate any recommendations for similar watches made by other manufacturers:) Thanks!

[jk103]

I would look for a nice example on Ebay for a vintage Gruen curvex first. Solid gold models are expensive but worth the money.

[pacifichrono]

Vintage Hamilton rectangular watches are cherished by collectors and owners. Hamilton produced perhaps 100 rectangular models in the last century, many of them solid gold like this 18K 'Gordon' model or 14K 'Brock:'





Hamilton's gorgeous and bullet-proof in-house movements (my photo) were a joy to behold!

[Kitz]

Check out an Omega Petrograd


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[markrlondon]

Yup, Gruen Curvex from the 30s/40s greatly appeal to me, as do Bulova and other clones. Very good looking watches. Longines also made some similar watches in (I think) a similar era).

I have a few but nothing special. As mentioned above, good ones (especially solid gold ones) are not cheap for what they are. Dials in particular can deteriorate and one should look out for refinished dials that aren't as nice as they seem at first.

I seem to remember I said that I'd upload pics of some of mine recently (ohhh... say three years ago) but I've still not got round to it. I have to find them first! (Same as my Seiko Monster weight/bracelet comparison article too... I've not forgotten).

And those Cartiers are very nice too! Are they vintage or modern?

[Wyvern971]

If I'm honest my opinion flips between liking the look and not quite often. Most often when I start looking to buy one I change my mind for some reason and decide not to, then someone puts pics up and I start thinking about it again

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[SimonK]

I bought this Waltham a few years ago but never wore it much, so sold it last month



Pretty nice high-grade (17 jewels, adjusted for 4 positions) movement



Not a curvex watch, but a heck of curved crystal





I bought this LIP T18 20 years ago at a French flea market. Stilll wear it regularly




This is probably my most art deco watch, a Dunhill Facet millennium limited edition produced in 2000 examples for the year 2000.

[greasemonkey]

dunhill facet automatic,its a bit of a beast but i love it..

[lew07]

I think their pretty cool.If it has the “exploding” numbers on the dial even better!

[Der Amf]

I think vintage Cintrees are just wonderful. The current model with the huge 12 and 6 doesn't have the timeless air that Cartier usually manage. One with enjoyably distorted Arabic numerals would be very nice, thank you

[stowaJLCfan]

I have had a few and most recently a gold 14K Lord Elgin with box and beautiful in house rectangular movement. It was bought from the forum for little money and was very accurate.

The ultimate issue with these as I see is the size. Most are 22 to 24mm wide and about 35mm high including the lugs and and on most men's wrists will look small which is why I now have none. Imagine a standard 35mm watch cut in half vertically to get a rough perspective.

They are beautiful and in solid gold really good value. Have a look on a US site called "finer times" which will have a lot of Hamilton's and other US makes in this style.

Price wise expect to pay in the region of £5-600 for a nice version and avoid redials. An old watch should have some patina on it.

To cure my passion for these I purchased a new Longines Evidenza which is a similiar style. ETA movement unfortunately but pink gold and a more wearable size.

[gray]

Rectangular dress watches pack a specific and often understated style that looks best when coupled with a wearer of style and distinction - is that you 😎

[tommyzzj]

I would look for a nice example on Ebay for a vintage Gruen curvex first. Solid gold models are expensive but worth the money.

I've been looking out for those on eBay - hard to find one that ticks all the boxes though (bad condition or silly price sometimes) But I guess that goes the same for a lot of vintage watches on eBay.. will be sure to post here if I manage to find a good one!

[tommyzzj]

Vintage Hamilton rectangular watches are cherished by collectors and owners. Hamilton produced perhaps 100 rectangular models in the last century, many of them solid gold like this 18K 'Gordon' model or 14K 'Brock:'





Hamilton's gorgeous and bullet-proof in-house movements (my photo) were a joy to behold!

These are beautiful!

[tommyzzj]

Check out an Omega Petrograd


Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

ohhh I didn't know Omega made those.. they have a bit of a franck muller look haha, very nice

[tommyzzj]

Yup, Gruen Curvex from the 30s/40s greatly appeal to me, as do Bulova and other clones. Very good looking watches. Longines also made some similar watches in (I think) a similar era).

I have a few but nothing special. As mentioned above, good ones (especially solid gold ones) are not cheap for what they are. Dials in particular can deteriorate and one should look out for refinished dials that aren't as nice as they seem at first.

I seem to remember I said that I'd upload pics of some of mine recently (ohhh... say three years ago) but I've still not got round to it. I have to find them first! (Same as my Seiko Monster weight/bracelet comparison article too... I've not forgotten).

And those Cartiers are very nice too! Are they vintage or modern?

Indeed!! Most of the ones I find online (eBay/auctions) are in pretty pathetic conditions, deteriorate dial, dirty casing and movement, some look ridiculously new but likely refinished like you said.

Would love to see those pictures tho!

The first two are vintage.. they started making those from the 1920s or something. they had an reissue last year or two years back (the last one). I think they are all gorgeous, just can't afford one at the moment..

[tommyzzj]

I bought this Waltham a few years ago but never wore it much, so sold it last month



Pretty nice high-grade (17 jewels, adjusted for 4 positions) movement



Not a curvex watch, but a heck of curved crystal





I bought this LIP T18 20 years ago at a French flea market. Stilll wear it regularly




This is probably my most art deco watch, a Dunhill Facet millennium limited edition produced in 2000 examples for the year 2000.

I love the LIP, have to be honest I've not heard of the brand.. will certainly look into it. I do love the bracelet on the Waltham! and yes that is one curved crystal..

[tommyzzj]

I think vintage Cintrees are just wonderful. The current model with the huge 12 and 6 doesn't have the timeless air that Cartier usually manage. One with enjoyably distorted Arabic numerals would be very nice, thank you

I agree.. these are the most elegant examples to me. watched a video lately on revolution watches with John Goldberger, he has such an insane collection of cintrees (and every other watch tbh), but the thin casing from earlier days + the exploding numerals are indeed breathtaking

[tommyzzj]

I have had a few and most recently a gold 14K Lord Elgin with box and beautiful in house rectangular movement. It was bought from the forum for little money and was very accurate.

The ultimate issue with these as I see is the size. Most are 22 to 24mm wide and about 35mm high including the lugs and and on most men's wrists will look small which is why I now have none. Imagine a standard 35mm watch cut in half vertically to get a rough perspective.

They are beautiful and in solid gold really good value. Have a look on a US site called "finer times" which will have a lot of Hamilton's and other US makes in this style.

Price wise expect to pay in the region of £5-600 for a nice version and avoid redials. An old watch should have some patina on it.

To cure my passion for these I purchased a new Longines Evidenza which is a similiar style. ETA movement unfortunately but pink gold and a more wearable size.

Thank you very much - this is most helpful, there are some gems on Finer Times! (didn't know about it before)

Enjoy the Longines:)

[tommyzzj]

Rectangular dress watches pack a specific and often understated style that looks best when coupled with a wearer of style and distinction - is that you 

wouldn't dare to say that's me... just an admirer of nice watches that's all :P

[SimonK]

I love the LIP, have to be honest I've not heard of the brand.. will certainly look into it. I do love the bracelet on the Waltham! and yes that is one curved crystal..

In the 40s, 50s and 60s LIP was one of the world's biggest brands - up with Hamilton and Smiths in terms of volumes and range of products sold. The T18 (T for tonneau - the barrel shape of the movement, LIP watches with a round movement are prefixed R) was a best seller - they came in chrome (like mine), stainless steel and gold cases, an example of the latter being presented to Churchill by DeGaulle at the end of WW2. There were some with chronometer grade movements.

In the sixties LIP invited noted designers and architects to come up with new ideas, and the results were pretty wacky - most striking of which was Roger Tallon's Mach 2000.

Unfortunately I couldn't wear the Waltham on its original bracelet, it was fixed length and way too long for me. The original purchaser must have been a seriously big fella and the watch must have looked very small on his tree-trunk wrist.

[Andyg]

Interesting. I had a similar obsession about 18 years ago. After looking at vintage watches, the Rolex Prince, Longiness, etc, I decided to go modern a bought a Franck Muller Casablanca.

Perfect. A good size, modern hand finished movement, great design, excellent quality, very comfortable and a dial to die for.

I still have.

[Caruso]

I've not tried a curved one, but I am a fan of small square or rectangular dress watches.

I had a lovely JLC that I let go, much to my regret.

[tommyzzj]

In the 40s, 50s and 60s LIP was one of the world's biggest brands - up with Hamilton and Smiths in terms of volumes and range of products sold. The T18 (T for tonneau - the barrel shape of the movement, LIP watches with a round movement are prefixed R) was a best seller - they came in chrome (like mine), stainless steel and gold cases, an example of the latter being presented to Churchill by DeGaulle at the end of WW2. There were some with chronometer grade movements.

In the sixties LIP invited noted designers and architects to come up with new ideas, and the results were pretty wacky - most striking of which was Roger Tallon's Mach 2000.

Unfortunately I couldn't wear the Waltham on its original bracelet, it was fixed length and way too long for me. The original purchaser must have been a seriously big fella and the watch must have looked very small on his tree-trunk wrist.

Thanks for this! will certainly look out for them in the future:)

Re bracelet: hopefully the new owner has one of those huge wrists too, shame it's a nice bracelet!

[tommyzzj]

I've not tried a curved one, but I am a fan of small square or rectangular dress watches.

I had a lovely JLC that I let go, much to my regret.

My friend at work has a lovely reverso that's passed on from his grandfather - has to be one of the most beautiful watches I've seen (kept in really good condition)

[tommyzzj]

Interesting. I had a similar obsession about 18 years ago. After looking at vintage watches, the Rolex Prince, Longiness, etc, I decided to go modern a bought a Franck Muller Casablanca.

Perfect. A good size, modern hand finished movement, great design, excellent quality, very comfortable and a dial to die for.

I still have.

I've never tried on a Franck Muller and just always didn't quite know how I feel about the shape.. but like I said I used to dislike any rectangular watches too aha

Great that you still have the watch!

[Gav]

Tissot do this rather nice “banana” watch from their heritage range in a number of different dial colours and finishes for not a great deal of money.

Pic from the net

[Gav]

This is my fave the Rolex Prince in rose gold

[Dr.f]

This is my fave the Rolex Prince in rose gold

Very nice indeed.

[alslater]

Both now gone (have a differing midsize classique and a duo), but the dunhill facets are quite the little deco thing...

al


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[ALindsay]

This little beauty floats my Art Deco boat


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[tommyzzj]

This little beauty floats my Art Deco boat


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that's a beauty...