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Thread: 9 years with the Bell & Ross 123 Geneva

  1. #1

    9 years with the Bell & Ross 123 Geneva

    It’s time to put a couple of thoughts down…





    I’ve talked about this watch briefly in the past - the fact it is the only watch that I bought on first sight. Browsing the window at the AD, where they had a big square grid of Bell & Ross instrument watches about which I was thinking unflattering thoughts. And then I lit upon this watch, the Geneva 123. I had to have it.





    This is a beautifully executed watch. Developed In the wake of Chanel Horlogerie’s shareholding of the company, it shows a clear move away from the SInn models which effectively launched B&R as a company. But beyond the fresh aesthetic, the Geneva - being the “fancy” end of the 123 line - also marked something that is really best appreciated in the metal: a tremendously high quality of dial and case execution.





    For this, it seems to me that Chanel had their manufacture C&F Châtelain really exert maximum effort as a bit of a statement-of-intent for their recently acquired brand. The Le Chaux-de-Fonds facility certainly delivered.





    Continuing the theme, straps were sourced from Camille Fournet, with curved ends that fit to the case very pleasingly (the lugs have two sets of holes, to accommodate either straight bars at normal distance or curved bars very close to the case circumference).








    The movement is the ETA 2895, with hours, minutes, small seconds and the semi-instantaneaous date display very nicely let in to the small seconds at 6 o’clock.





    The movement can be glimpsed, along with the Bell & Ross ampersand rotor, through an inset crystal on the case back.





    The ampersand logo carries throughout the watch, here on the crown:





    While the supplied butterfly deployant carries the full “Bell & Ross” text device, I have recently favoured a factory tang buckle, which goes well with the alligator strap and again makes good design use of the ampersand.





    When looking from this watch to the brand’s current overwhelming focus on its instrument (i.e. square) watches, it’s hard not to feel that they have perhaps turned their back on something really quite magical.

    I appreciate that the instrument line sells like hot-cakes. But the 123 Geneva had an integrity of design and execution that I find very persuasive.





    In the last couple of years, I have occasionally thought about replacing this with a three-hander-and-date from Plan-les-Ouates. I’m not saying that won’t happen someday, but for now the Geneva ticks that box very satisfactorily and leaves some funds for something less austere.

    Hope you enjoyed reading this - keen to hear your thoughts!


    Last edited by JGJG; 23rd June 2019 at 13:28.

  2. #2
    I’ve just posted a similar thread about having a watch for ten years. They become part of you don’t they? I’ve always liked these, especially with those diamond shaped hands. Stunning. Lots of really nice details and a bit different to the norm. I didn’t know that about the pin bars. You’ve got me looking for a black faced one now!

  3. #3
    Master sean's Avatar
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    This watch doesn't do a lot for me, but your excellent write up expalins why it hits the mark for you. Informative about the B&R brand too. Great stuff!

    Excellently staged photos too.

  4. #4
    Beautiful watch and a classy option which has been in your ownership longer than most members can own a watch for haha. Bell & Ross is a bit of an underdog for many, becasue they really got popular in the wake of the big watch craze. However chanel wouldn't invest so much if they didn't believe in the brand and they are super well made and now seem to have settled into a more cohesive line up. I hope it gives you many more years of enjoyment.

  5. #5
    Journeyman
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    Great write up. Love that little inset crystal on the back of the case, don't think I've ever seen that before

  6. #6
    Thanks for the write up op. I can see why you’ve held onto it. Is the case 37.5mm?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    I’ve just posted a similar thread about having a watch for ten years. They become part of you don’t they? I’ve always liked these, especially with those diamond shaped hands. Stunning. Lots of really nice details and a bit different to the norm. I didn’t know that about the pin bars. You’ve got me looking for a black faced one now!
    They do - I contemplated selling it earlier this year, but something about that idea actually ended up making me appreciate the watch all the more. For such an ostensibly straight-forward watch, you're quite right about the level of detail and sophistication they have.


    Quote Originally Posted by sean View Post
    This watch doesn't do a lot for me, but your excellent write up expalins why it hits the mark for you. Informative about the B&R brand too. Great stuff!
    Excellently staged photos too.
    Thanks Sean... as fellow Explorer owners, it would be a boring world if our tastes overlapped too fully :)
    I always enjoy hearing from others about why they like what they do, so I'm happy if I can do the same.


    Quote Originally Posted by Olives View Post
    Beautiful watch and a classy option which has been in your ownership longer than most members can own a watch for haha. Bell & Ross is a bit of an underdog for many, becasue they really got popular in the wake of the big watch craze. However chanel wouldn't invest so much if they didn't believe in the brand and they are super well made and now seem to have settled into a more cohesive line up. I hope it gives you many more years of enjoyment.
    Thanks. Yes, I think Bell & Ross under Chanel have really executed these watches (and indeed the "instrument" lines) to the highest standard. The movement is extremely accurate too and shows no sign (touch wood) of needing a service.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Bclark View Post
    Great write up. Love that little inset crystal on the back of the case, don't think I've ever seen that before
    Thanks. Yes the caseback is quite whimsical but I do like it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Tetley View Post
    Thanks for the write up op. I can see why you’ve held onto it. Is the case 37.5mm?
    Good point, I should really have mentioned the size.

    Yes, 37.5mm diameter. 45mm lug-to-lug. 20mm lug width. Approx. 12mm high, to the apex of the nicely domed sapphire. It's pretty much all dial, so has plenty of presence too.

  9. #9
    Master helidoc's Avatar
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    9 years with the Bell & Ross 123 Geneva

    I feel slightly teased into contributing, even though I have a lawn to mow and a cycling workout to do!

    Justin was an enabler for my very recent purchase of the same watch, which I am very much enamoured with, for all the same reasons

    Because Chanel took a stake in B&R, the watches are assembled at Chatelain, which before Chanel’s Acquisition was a long established case maker. Case work and finishing are very high quality, and there is great ceramic expertise too.

    Chanel now have stakes in FP Journe, Romain Gauthier, and a 20% stake in Kenissi, who are 50% partners in Tudor’s planned movement manufacturing facility. Interesting times

    Rubbish pics







    Dave


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by helidoc; 23rd June 2019 at 15:57.

  10. #10
    ^ That one looks great Dave... seems like you have £300-worth of like-new strap there as well! Congrats again.

  11. #11
    Nice use of Information is Beautiful as a prop!

  12. #12
    Grand Master abraxas's Avatar
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    Dauphine hands can be done right, or they be done wrong. Those are done right.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mqEevOUTvDw
    Last edited by abraxas; 23rd June 2019 at 16:06.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by abraxas View Post
    Dauphine hands can be done right, or they be done wrong. Those are done right.

    Yep, the minute hand especially has a nice clinical tip that cuts very precisely into the minute track. Don’t often see painted ones, and the contrast makes them very striking.


    Quote Originally Posted by Qatar-wol View Post
    Nice use of Information is Beautiful as a prop!
    Spotter’s badge!

  14. #14
    Very nice looking watch and pics.
    I think blued hands might put it over the top.

  15. #15
    Journeyman
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    It’s one of the classiest B&R I’ve ever seen,while I rarely wear any dressy watches,this can do sporty and dressy duty effortlessly

    I think the non square B&Rs are nicer but seems like B&R didn’t market them as much as their square instruments watch....

  16. #16
    I really like the design of this watch, especially the small seconds and date window combination. I feel that B&R are often underrated and ignored.

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