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Thread: Seamaster-what to check?

  1. #1
    Master
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    Seamaster-what to check?

    Following a WTB here for a Seamaster and nothing much appearing, I have braved the world of EBay and won the auction for the below:

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omega-Sea...app-cvip-panel

    Haven’t purchased a watch via EBay before hence checking what specifically to look for on arrival.

    I am expecting a service is needed as it hasn’t been done since 2010.

    Obviously some wear to the bezel etc which I don’t mind given the age but it doesn’t look out of the ordinary.

    Second hand is slightly faded but that seems common on this age of Seamaster.

    Box and documents have the usual wear but seem correct for the watch?

    Seller has 200+ 100% positive feedback, member for 15 years but hasn’t sold much recently.

    Anything else to note?

    Assuming it turns out to be good, I will offer it to the forum if for some reason we don’t bond!

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Master
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    Looks like a nice v complete set. As you say, a service would be v likely. Could be a great daily for a long time and worth a lot by the end of that time!

    Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Grand Master
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    Looks like an honest watch to me. Box and papers wouldn't interest me if I was buying, at this age it's all about the watch itself although I`m pleased to see all the spare links are present.

    The watch appears to have a lot of light/medium scratching commensurate with regular wear. It could be refinished to make it look sharp again. The bezel and insert could also be refinished but the bezel itself would never look like new again. The blue paint on the bezel insert can be re-applied too.

    I think the price is excellent, I would've been interested myself to buy this as a fixer-upper and (dare I say it) sell on for £1300, looking virtually new with 12 months guarantee. However, I`d want some reassurance that the glass isn`t scratched, replacements are hard to get and expensive. I don`t know if a generic replacement's available but it would make sense!

  4. #4
    Master
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    Thanks both, yes, glass is one thing on the check list as I think I was quoted about £150 for a new one on a similar watch.

  5. #5
    Grand Master
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    The difficulty thesedays is getting hold of Omega parts, especially anything case-specific. Usually the glasses are Ok on these, they're not prone to getting chipped on the edges but I have seen examples with scratches. I could live with a minor scratch or two thesedays, I`m less fussy than I used to be. The inside of the glass has an AR coating on these and that can get marked if its handled roughly during dismantling.

  6. #6
    Craftsman
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    Nice watch and good price. The crystal does look scuffed around the 10/11 o'clock position in the 5th photograph, but hopefully it's just a smudge or a trick of the lense.

  7. #7
    Master
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    I did see that as well but doesn’t seem to be visible on the the other close up pics. Might be due to the angle not picking it up on the others but hoping it is just smudging picked up in the 5th photo only.

  8. #8
    Master
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    Just to update the thread, this arrived yesterday.

    Seamaster 1 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Probably better than the pictures suggested with no scratches on the crystal and a nice deep red on the second hand tip. Nothing that won't be removed with a light polish on the bracelet, bezel or case either. Lume is great for a 18 year old watch. I'm not an expert but it all looks like the real thing.

    All the spare links are completely unused and the original purchase reciept from Dec 2001 was included. Shows that depreciation on Omega since 2001 isn't too bad!

    Only slight issue is there seems to be a slight gap between the end of the clasp and the rest of the bracelet. Forums seem to suggest that this is due to the shape of the section of metal in the centre of the clasp as it wears. Also had quite a bit if dirt in it which I have cleaned out. Have hopefully posted a pic below. Doesn't look like there is an easy fix apart from replacing the clasp and as it otherwise works fine I will probably leave it as it is!

    Seamaster 2 by Matt G, on Flickr

  9. #9
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    Congratulations, you can’t go wrong with a seamaster.

  10. #10
    Master
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    V nice buy. Hopefully someone can offer clasp advice.

    Sent from my CLT-L09 using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by mmgg1988 View Post
    Just to update the thread, this arrived yesterday.

    Seamaster 1 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Probably better than the pictures suggested with no scratches on the crystal and a nice deep red on the second hand tip. Nothing that won't be removed with a light polish on the bracelet, bezel or case either. Lume is great for a 18 year old watch. I'm not an expert but it all looks like the real thing.

    All the spare links are completely unused and the original purchase reciept from Dec 2001 was included. Shows that depreciation on Omega since 2001 isn't too bad!

    Only slight issue is there seems to be a slight gap between the end of the clasp and the rest of the bracelet. Forums seem to suggest that this is due to the shape of the section of metal in the centre of the clasp as it wears. Also had quite a bit if dirt in it which I have cleaned out. Have hopefully posted a pic below. Doesn't look like there is an easy fix apart from replacing the clasp and as it otherwise works fine I will probably leave it as it is!

    Seamaster 2 by Matt G, on Flickr
    The last bit of the clasp is bent. I'll update with some photos

  12. #12
    This piece should be curved. I would bet yours is bent straight



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    Master
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    Nice 2255. The steel (not aluminium) bezel insert in those can be polished back to perfect easily with Cape Cod, but you need to carefully mask the brushed bezel shell and case else you lose that finish. Or take out the insert first but that is not generally recommended. The clasp is indeed likely bent like suggested above. A new clasp is available to buy from a Omega Boutique and they will if asked nicely even fit it for you in most cases. You seem to be short a few links too, these are not too horribly priced at around £20-30, you could replace some pins too since those are likely poorly in places.

    Not sure what you paid (was it really only £999?) but the 2255 is currently under appreciated and undervalued by the market vs the 2254 which looks every inch the 1960s diver but in reality looks crap once you scuff the £200 Anodised Aluminium bezel. 2255s are lagging and its a good time to take advantage of this. Often a scratched up bezel puts people off understanably but when you realise a 2255 bezel is much more easily fixed it becomes very appealing...
    Last edited by Padders; 2nd May 2019 at 18:27.

  14. #14
    Master
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    Yep, the end bit isn't totally flat but certainly isn't round either!

    Not sure how many links there should be, I have a total of 14 and one half link? Thought that should be pretty much all it came with when new. I don't exactly have large wrists and had sized it by the time I took the pic!

  15. #15
    Grand Master
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    Check that the divers extension is closed correctly, then try the clasp. If the divers extension link isn`t seated correctly inside the clasp it'll close but not properly. There are two ways to close it....one of them's right.

    I`ve worked on lots of these and I find it hard to believe that the clasp is sprained at the point you've shown, the metal's too sturdy to sprain.........if I`m wrong on this I`ll be surprised.

    As for polishing the aluminium bezel insert, it's far better to take it out of the bezel. I wouldn't do it with Cape Cod, I would use very fine wet and dry wrapped around a small block to level the scratches first, this sounds harsher but it achieves the desired effect with less metal removal, I`ve done a few of these and they can be refinished nicely. I was never sure if the original finish should be highly polished or semi-polished with a fine radial grain, maybe I`m getting mixed up with the titanium versions but I`ve definitely seen this on one variant.

    If the blue lettering has come away it can be replaced, not my favourite job because I`ve never found an easy way to get it right, but it's possible.
    Last edited by walkerwek1958; 2nd May 2019 at 19:19.

  16. #16
    Master
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    I think these are the best relatively modern Seamasters, congrats! I would get the clasp fixed or replaced, it would worry me.

  17. #17
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    Check that the divers extension is closed correctly, then try the clasp. If the divers extension link isn`t seated correctly inside the clasp it'll close but not properly. There are two ways to close it....one of them's right.

    I`ve worked on lots of these and I find it hard to believe that the clasp is sprained at the point you've shown, the metal's too sturdy to sprain.........if I`m wrong on this I`ll be surprised.

    As for polishing the aluminium bezel insert, it's far better to take it out of the bezel. I wouldn't do it with Cape Cod, I would use very fine wet and dry wrapped around a small block to level the scratches first, this sounds harsher but it achieves the desired effect with less metal removal, I`ve done a few of these and they can be refinished nicely. I was never sure if the original finish should be highly polished or semi-polished with a fine radial grain, maybe I`m getting mixed up with the titanium versions but I`ve definitely seen this on one variant.

    If the blue lettering has come away it can be replaced, not my favourite job because I`ve never found an easy way to get it right, but it's possible.
    Its not aluminium Paul, its steel. Titanium version is semi polished titanium insert, the 2255 is full polished steel. The 2254 and 2531 use anodised aluminium and aren't repairable at all. When I said it wasn't recommended to remove the insert I meant by mere mortals, not those with watchmaking skills. I wouldn't personally attempt it but for those who can it is probably preferable.
    Last edited by Padders; 2nd May 2019 at 19:43.

  18. #18
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    Seamaster 3 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Have taken a close up which I think illustrates the point below. I believe this is supposed to be more semicircular and has flattened out with wear. The metal doesn't seem to have appreciably thinned just flattened. Not sure if that part of the clasp can be purchased seperately so it is either a whole clasp or nothing!

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by mmgg1988 View Post
    Seamaster 3 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Have taken a close up which I think illustrates the point below. I believe this is supposed to be more semicircular and has flattened out with wear. The metal doesn't seem to have appreciably thinned just flattened. Not sure if that part of the clasp can be purchased seperately so it is either a whole clasp or nothing!
    It’s as I thought. I assume it can be straightened out again or perhaps a donor clasp can be harvested for the correct part. Despite the clasp issue I think you did very well indeed on this purchase


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    Master
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    that looks like its been bent and then straightened again but not quite right, look at the bottom of the metal under the semi circualr cut out, it dips in but shouldn't. fear that its owrk hardened and just can't be got perfectly right . You could try heating it to anneal it but you'll struggle...I'd use as is carefully or loo k for new clasp.

  21. #21
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Padders View Post
    Its not aluminium Paul, its steel. Titanium version is semi polished titanium insert, the 2255 is full polished steel. The 2254 and 2531 use anodised aluminium and aren't repairable at all. When I said it wasn't recommended to remove the insert I meant by mere mortals, not those with watchmaking skills. I wouldn't personally attempt it but for those who can it is probably preferable.
    I’ve slept a few times since I last worked on one! There’s a way if popping the inserts out but it needs care, I press them out using a conveniently sized improvised die and a small press tool.

    You’re certainly right about the anodised inserts used on the 2254 and 2531, ideally these should’ve been supplied as reasonably priced replacements but they weren’t........blame the Swiss with their twisted logic.

    Looking at the pics of the clasp, it appears that it has been sprained. Never seen that before. It may be possible to sprain it back, but if that fails it’ll be a new clasp.

  22. #22
    Master
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    Final update to the thread, wore this for a couple of weeks whilst on holiday and it was gaining about 1-2 mins per day so as expected it needed a service.

    Sent it off to Brendan (Webwatchmaker) for a service and asked him if he could do anything about the clasp issue and tidy up some of the scratches on the bracelet and insert which fortunately he could! Luckily no real horrors to report when he completed the service either.

    Now back with me and running as expected and looks to be a keeper at least for now!

    Terrible pictures but at least you get the idea...

    Seamaster 5 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Seamaster 4 by Matt G, on Flickr

  23. #23
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmgg1988 View Post
    Final update to the thread, wore this for a couple of weeks whilst on holiday and it was gaining about 1-2 mins per day so as expected it needed a service.

    Sent it off to Brendan (Webwatchmaker) for a service and asked him if he could do anything about the clasp issue and tidy up some of the scratches on the bracelet and insert which fortunately he could! Luckily no real horrors to report when he completed the service either.

    Now back with me and running as expected and looks to be a keeper at least for now!

    Terrible pictures but at least you get the idea...

    Seamaster 5 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Seamaster 4 by Matt G, on Flickr
    Ah, that's better. Did you get the bracelet re-brushed ? I thought it was looking too polished in the earlier photos.

    I've had 2254, 2531 and 2255 flavours of these in the past, 2255 was my favourite, that dial is stunning ! And yes, the lume on these is infamous.

  24. #24
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gomers View Post
    Ah, that's better. Did you get the bracelet re-brushed ? I thought it was looking too polished in the earlier photos.

    I've had 2254, 2531 and 2255 flavours of these in the past, 2255 was my favourite, that dial is stunning ! And yes, the lume on these is infamous.
    Yep, bracelet was re-brushed as was worn rather too shiny before as well as the usual plethora of desk diving marks! Dial colour and shine is still one of the best features of this watch IMO

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmgg1988 View Post
    Final update to the thread, wore this for a couple of weeks whilst on holiday and it was gaining about 1-2 mins per day so as expected it needed a service.

    Sent it off to Brendan (Webwatchmaker) for a service and asked him if he could do anything about the clasp issue and tidy up some of the scratches on the bracelet and insert which fortunately he could! Luckily no real horrors to report when he completed the service either.

    Now back with me and running as expected and looks to be a keeper at least for now!

    Terrible pictures but at least you get the idea...

    Seamaster 5 by Matt G, on Flickr

    Seamaster 4 by Matt G, on Flickr
    A pair of round nosed pliers and gentle heat curved the bracelet end back into position. Always a tense job but it was fine.
    I am glad you are pleased with the result !

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Webwatchmaker; 26th August 2019 at 21:16.

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