I'm contemplating making the move to a Patek annual calendar/annual calendar plus chrono at some point in the next year. To do so, I'd be selling/trading my blue dialled stainless steel Rolex Skydweller (lightly worn) plus a brand new 50th anniversary Seadweller and adding cash of course.
I've visited my Patek AD to have a look at the options. All a bit overwhelming to be honest and it is difficult looking at things out of a book or online. I particularly liked the 5205G in white gold (blue dial) and the 5905P. I think I prefer the slightly less cluttered dials.
I had a 5711 (white dial) before from the same AD but it always felt a little too fragile for me and I seldom wore it. It was sold a while ago (mistake!).
Realistically, I'm only going to make this move up to a complicated Patek once and I want a watch that I'll wear and enjoy for the rest of my days.
I was wondering what advice you good folk could give me. I'd especially like to hear from anyone who has made the move from Rolex to Patek's with complications like those I'm considering. Any words of wisdom, caution or encouragement will be very much appreciated. What other models would you suggest considering? Thanks all.
I took a look at the 5205G last year whilst in Vienna. It was, as you say, uncluttered. However I gave it a miss because whilst it looked perfect for the office, I now dress casual most of the time and the more bash proof Rolex is probably the best bet. PPs need the protection of being under a shirt sleeve.Originally Posted by jpjsavage
If I was still working in the office, the 5205G would have been a no brainer.
I only have plain Pateks (5167 and 5711, although waiting on the 5164 later this year), so can't give an owner's perspective. But, of the two listed, I prefer the look of the 5205, and the £20k saving too. I would personally be looking at a Nautilus complication, like the 5726/1A (although I appreciate very difficult to source) or the 5990 (still difficult but not as so, albeit black not blue). Both similar price to the 5205, and I would suggest cover both sport and dress angles - and a little more substantial than the 5711 which should suit you. I would suggest better investments too.
Depends if you like the look of course but don’t forget the 5235; it’s just a better watch for approx the same outlay imo.
Nice choices
I really like the 5170P (Chrono only) if I had the chance of a less sporty PP
Hi
What makes you say that, I must admit this thread has got the juices flowing.
Contemplating buying the 5524G I tried on the other day, extremely pretty watch plus functional as well
Would love to try one! Have mixed feelings on it
Looks so much better in real life than the magazine
What size is your wrist? The 5905P is 42mm and will be quite heavy too.
I prefer the dial layout and the shape of the hands on the 5905.
Have you seen the Worldtime Chrono 5930? Beautiful guilloche dial.
Last edited by Cinch; 19th April 2019 at 18:43.
I have a 5135P which is basically the 5205 but in a Gondolo case. Absolutely love the dial layout. Before that I had a 5167 which, to me, felt lightweight, fragile, and lacking the quality that I would expect from a Patek. When you step up to the complicated level you really do notice the improvements in the overall finish and detail and feel like you are wearing something special. I’ve never felt the need to be overprotective of mine and quite happily wear it with no sleeves, Pateks are much thinner than Rolex sports watches so you’re much less likely to give it a knock anyway.
My advise (as an owner of a 5146J Annual Calender)
- is take your time.
First work out your budget - this will determine the ceiling of what is available to you.
Second go to a Patek boutique where they are able to let you see and try on models.
Third consider your options - the style and size and colour and material you prefer.
Are you looking at yellow gold, rose gold, platinum, white gold? Which do you prefer?
Do you prefer aperture numeric or hands indicators or perhaps both
What about case size - width, depth?
Forth - don’t buy immediately - go back a second time after sleeping on it - maybe a week later. Consider - if they sold anyone of them and you had to wait for it - which one would you wait for.
If you still can’t decide between models - take a coin with you.
You should know a service can take 3 months and £1K+ or so. So make sure it is not your only watch - or buy two! They reckon a service every three years - but I wear mine in rotation and so perhaps double that time between services.
They are fine watches - but can be worn daily unless you happen to work on a building site. Mine will not be leaving my little collection. I adore mine and it is the perfect size and shape (for me).
Martyn
Last edited by MartynJC (UK); 19th April 2019 at 19:29.
For a long time, I had my eye on the 5205: it is a fantastic complication as the aperture registers for the date are a unique nod to modernity and the classic mechanical AC complication that Patek trademarked in 1996. Then Baselworld 2018 presented the 5205G-013 midnight blue sunburst, and it was love at first sight!
Then I opened the watch box and realised that there were more Rolexes in there than days of the week, and most of them were not being worn. "Quality over quantity", and so the move to downsize the collection is now underway.
When you place a Rolex next to a Patek, the Patek appears to make the Rolex many sharp and shiny edges look glitzy. Not in a bad way, but it is clear the design philosophy is radically different. I love the 5205G and the way it works in the evening or for smarter occasions. I recently picked up a Nautilus 5726 and whilst it is definitely sporting, it carries a simplicity that is a good match for the more classy 5205. 5726 by day, 5205 at night.
I have 3 Rolexes remaining: a 16600 SD which was my 1st and remains in my mind the ultimate Rolex 'tool watch'. The 16710 Pepsi which is my son's birthyear watch, and the 116619LB 'Smurf' white gold Sub which was a gift to myself. The Smurf's blue is unique to it alone, it carries a heft of value that is unmistakable to you ONLY, it is unmistakeable as a classic Submariner in design, and the subtlety of white gold is both special yet never screams wealth as Yellow Gold does. And yet in the presence of the Pateks, the Smurf is still 3rd.
I once dismissed Patek as a brand, but there is a time for everything. They are discrete. They are refined and finished to an exceptional standard and quality. The way the rotor freely pirouettes really shows up the rough finishing of even the much hallowed 3186 Rolex movement. Quality over quantity every time. Make the move and I doubt you will regret it.
My best three.
^^^^
just sublime set. Slightly jealous. Well done on those.
Martyn.
Many thanks, Martyn. It is an ongoing journey, but really keen to simplify. Bracelet, leather, rubber.
A PRS22 Speedbird GMT on Isofrane serves as my field watch, the 16710 to gift one day, and the 16600 where it all started. The others in the collection will be moved on.
Heres my 2 cents:
1) Pateks I have owned: 5711, 5167, 5205G.
2) Rolexs I have owned: Sub-C, GMT-C, Exp I, Daytona
Firstly a critical factor is your reasoning for buying it and what your lifestyle is like. The biggest issue I had with the 5205 is that I rarely dressed smartly and a watch with a leather strap, generally favours a more "smart" dress life style.
From a mechanical perspective, Pateks are rock solid. The 5205 is also based on the 324 cal which is as solid as any Rolex. Sure the case finishing "MAY" seem fragile and for sure it is more intricate. However from a reliabilty perspective, it is rock solid, and you can pretty much do anything you did with your rolex with your patek, ofcourse not in water.
The AC is a Patek complication and a good choice. However i came to the conclusion that an annual calender was quite boring in the end. I never forget what month it is, and what day it is....Its nice that it shows this but like a perpetual calendar, its abit boring. My opinion ofc.
Instead if I were to do it again, I would get a world timer, like a 5230 right now would be the one I would go for, allows you to "interact", ie play around with the clicker, know the time in a different country etc.
PS My daily wear is the 5167. 5205 has been sold and I dont regret it.
Purely personal but I dislike the cal 324 based annual calendar. I don’t like the appearance for one, like most full rotor autos it has an industrial look. I also recall the early reliability issues back in the 5035 days and have an admittedly irrational negativity as a result. Mostly though I can’t forgive the cluginess of releasing an Annual calendar movement with more parts than the 240q movement powering the then 3940. It was a cynical marketing move at the time imo.
In contrast the 5235 has a purpose-made movement with the micro rotor that lets you see it. I have not seen one in person but in hi-res photos the finish looks jaw dropping, like Pateks used to be. Plus it has the modern tech research materials that I quite like, though fully understand that purists may not approve of. It seems a special watch.
Many thanks to you all for the great advice and ideas. I'm following up on them all and will enjoy researching the various models. There is no rush from my point of view as the residual values of stainless steel Rolex watches don't seem to be dropping at the moment! I'm going to wait and see if either of my irons in the fire (for the 50th anniversary speedmaster) come off. If not, I'll try and do something later this year.
Ohh, forgot to add that the 5235 date change happens in a few minutes. I assume the 5205 still takes 4 hours? which would be a deal breaker for me if true.
I have two PPs: a 5146G bought in 2009 and a 5712A from 2010. I wear the Nautilus more, as I am a casual/scruffy dresser, T-shirt and jeans predominantly, and the Naut is one of my personal favourites. There's a myth that the Naut is a scratch magnet, not in my experience.
Both are fantastic watches, take your time and choose carefully.
Lovely!!!!!I have two PPs: a 5146G bought in 2009 and a 5712A from 2010. I wear the Nautilus more, as I am a casual/scruffy dresser, T-shirt and jeans predominantly, and the Naut is one of my personal favourites. There's a myth that the Naut is a scratch magnet, not in my experience.
Both are fantastic watches, take your time and choose carefully.
Hate seeing the 5712 as it makes me question my choice of getting the 5711 - however I know it would be the other way around if I had purchased the 5712. Love them equally!!
My Aqua and Nautilus is generally scratch free and also think the concept of them being delicate flowers is simply poor interpretation due to the tiny slim case
Last edited by kultschar; 20th April 2019 at 11:29.
5205 blue dial is nice as is the 5396 with Breguets for an AC. 5726 is another option, esp on the strap, bracelet is probably impossible. If you like chronos consider a Lange 39mm Dato or 1815, but if you like both comps then think you are heading towards 5270 territory as are we all, ha!
"Ohh, forgot to add that the 5235 date change happens in a few minutes. I assume the 5205 still takes 4 hours? which would be a deal breaker for me if true."
Many thanks for that, it's quite an interesting viewpoint.
I know lots of PP owners get bugged by the 4 hour date change and I would become one of them. You expect no compromise quality with a PP, not a 4 hour change time.
It's never occurred to me to think about this before. I've no idea how long the date change takes on the 5146. All it needs to do is show me the correct date when I get up in the morning, which it would do 364 days per year when worn continuously.
Thanks. The 5711 is great as well, but I can't justify owning both.
Yes, the slim profile makes them less likely to get dinged.
Some very wise words on here. I can only echo kaiserphoenix’s post about the annual calendar complication not being that interesting / involving. I had a 5146 and whilst a marvellous fit and beautiful watch, you’ve got to keep it worn/wound to keep all calendars in synch and it felt like it should have done more- if that doesn’t sound strange.
I changed to the 5167r and haven’t looked back BUT if I was to go back to a complicated Patek I’d look at a 5170 or if you want the annual calendar function, stretch for a 5960.
Outside of a steel 5712, I purchased the 5712 white gold and the 5205R with black dial. Beautiful, both of them. But the 5205R has the edge for me in terms of beauty, and the 5712 was extremely uncomfortable on the wrist. I would recommend the 5205R with black dial to anyone, a very special watch.
I heard a few people say the 5712R is uncomfortable on leather strap (a watch ive often eyed up).Outside of a steel 5712, I purchased the 5712 white gold and the 5205R with black dial. Beautiful, both of them. But the 5205R has the edge for me in terms of beauty, and the 5712 was extremely uncomfortable on the wrist. I would recommend the 5205R with black dial to anyone, a very special watch.
I guess these straps on Nautilus are uncomfortable and rigid maybe???
Yes, there is a rigid connector about an inch long where the strap connects to the end link, it was digging into my wrist awfully. I have also noticed it causes the watch to sit poorly on the wrist on other people. The composite strap was much worse, but the leather was still unusable. I kept the watch for 3 weeks before selling for a loss of around £4k... try explaining that one to your wife. Not the best experience. I find it absurd that a watch of that price could have issues with comfort. I did mention in the AD it seemed a bit stiff and they said it would soften up in the first day or two of use, but it didn’t.
The following year I bought a 5712 in steel and that was perfectly comfortable, funny that the steel bracelet is much more flexible on the wrist than the leather or composite.
Very interesting with regards to the comfort. I wonder if this is the same for the 5980R? I have an AP on a strap with a deployment clasp and it can’t be more uncomfortable than that!
I tried on a used 5980R on strap at watchfinder a few years ago, it seemed top heavy but otherwise not too bad. It was only after a full day’s use that the discomfort became noticeable with the 5712G and after a day or two more I had to stop using it as it had become so painful! So it’s a tricky one, as you don’t really want to take the risk.
I have found AP to be exceptionally comfortable in general and I have even had their 42mm and 44mm Royal Oak Offshores on rubber straps with no issue, in addition to the Royal Oak on bracelet.
Did your APs come on tangs or were they deployment clasps? I can imagine the ones with tangs are super comfy.
Tangs are, deployants are trickier, often have to reverse the straps or mix and match with a different size, I have also had AP punch an extra hole in a rubber strap for me.
The Offshores came on Tang buckles and are very comfortable as you say. Also my gold Royal Oak on leather was a deployant and remained still very comfortable. And of course the SS Royal Oak is a dream on the wrist.
The 5205R (or indeed 5205G as Op is considering) is also very, very comfortable on the wrist and I would wear it both casually and formally. It has some amazing lug detailing too and some real curves to it which make it a rather unique design.
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My 5980r is probably the watch I wear the most. The strap is quite rigid and takes some time to break in but as soon as mine was broken in I found it very comfortable and have had no issues.
It’s my favourite Patek! Do you have it on the rubber or leather strap?
It’s currently on grey croc but if I’m feeling frivolous I may order a new colour soon
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