Newby Wrecker Question - Hand Setting

[Mr Nuttington]

I’m going to have a go at replacing a dead quartz movement in a cheapy fashion watch, just for fun. I have removed the movement, hands and dial ok and am currently sourcing a replacement Ronda 515.
When I try to put it all back together how should I go about positioning the hands so the date changes at the right time of day? Is it as simple as using the stem to wind until the date changes then fitting the hands to show midnight or are there other factors to consider?

[willie_gunn]

I’m going to have a go at replacing a dead quartz movement in a cheapy fashion watch, just for fun. I have removed the movement, hands and dial ok and am currently sourcing a replacement Ronda 515.
When I try to put it all back together how should I go about positioning the hands so the date changes at the right time of day? Is it as simple as using the stem to wind until the date changes then fitting the hands to show midnight or are there other factors to consider?

Well that is what I have been doing when I swap movements, though I should stress that I am no watch repairer.

I will advance the time slowly until I see the date wheel start to change, and then slow right down so I can catch the exact tipping point when it clicks forwards.

Having re-fitted the hands I will then advance through a full 24 hours, checking the hand alignment at 3, 6 and 9, then back at 12. At 24 hours I will re-check the date/day advance.

The above might be completely wrong, but it's what I do!

[Mr Nuttington]

Well that is what I have been doing when I swap movements, though I should stress that I am no watch repairer.

I will advance the time slowly until I see the date wheel start to change, and then slow right down so I can catch the exact tipping point when it clicks forwards.

Having re-fitted the hands I will then advance through a full 24 hours, checking the hand alignment at 3, 6 and 9, then back at 12. At 24 hours I will re-check the date/day advance.

The above might be completely wrong, but it's what I do!

Many thanks - I hadn’t thought through enough to consider checking the alignment over a 24hr cycle so that’s a useful tip.

[walkerwek1958]

The most important aspect of hand alignment is getting the hr and minute hand synchronised correctly. Sometimes it’s not possible to get perfect alignment at all points, dials are often printed slightly out, dial feet get sprained, and parts wear. I always check at 12 and 6, if these agree the rest will be OK. often a compromise has to be reached, you have to use your judgement.

Always turn the hands clockwise when checking, otherwise the backlash will create errors.

After getting the hr hand on check that it’s not fouling the dial at any point, check it’s level too. Turn the hands clockwise to 12, then lightly fit the minute hand. I place it in position just short of 12 then rotate it slightly to the exact position and lightly press it down with pegwood. Wind the hands back, then forwards to 5 to 12, see how the hr hand looks, them wind forward to 5 past. If all looks well wind the hands to 6 and check to see if they’re in a straight line. Remember, always wind clockwise, if you need to check again turn them back then approach the test point clockwise.

On a quartz watch I wouldn’t worry about the date change too much, often they change over a longer period than a mechanical and they don’t snap forward as sharply, provided it’s complete by 12:30 I’d be happy.

Always check the hands for fouling by turning them through 12 hrs and observing closely at all points.

Finally, fit the seconds hand. Getting it to hit the markers is a challenge, there are ways and means! Check again for fouling and check the seconds hand doesn’t contact the glass. If in doubt, breathe on the inside of the glass to leave a coating of condensation then quickly fit the movement into the case. Look for the hand leaving a trace in the condensation, if it doesn’t you’re OK. Take the movement out and dry the inside of the case by allowing the condensation to evaporate. On a mechanical watch this test can be done using the timegrapher, look for the amplitude falling when the movement us in the case then recovering when the movement us out........can’t do that with a quartz!

[Mr Nuttington]

The most important aspect of hand alignment is getting the hr and minute hand synchronised correctly. Sometimes it’s not possible to get perfect alignment at all points, dials are often printed slightly out, dial feet get sprained, and parts wear. I always check at 12 and 6, if these agree the rest will be OK. often a compromise has to be reached, you have to use your judgement.

Always turn the hands clockwise when checking, otherwise the backlash will create errors.

After getting the hr hand on check that it’s not fouling the dial at any point, check it’s level too. Turn the hands clockwise to 12, then lightly fit the minute hand. I place it in position just short of 12 then rotate it slightly to the exact position and lightly press it down with pegwood. Wind the hands back, then forwards to 5 to 12, see how the hr hand looks, them wind forward to 5 past. If all looks well wind the hands to 6 and check to see if they’re in a straight line. Remember, always wind clockwise, if you need to check again turn them back then approach the test point clockwise.

On a quartz watch I wouldn’t worry about the date change too much, often they change over a longer period than a mechanical and they don’t snap forward as sharply, provided it’s complete by 12:30 I’d be happy.

Always check the hands for fouling by turning them through 12 hrs and observing closely at all points.

Finally, fit the seconds hand. Getting it to hit the markers is a challenge, there are ways and means! Check again for fouling and check the seconds hand doesn’t contact the glass. If in doubt, breathe on the inside of the glass to leave a coating of condensation then quickly fit the movement into the case. Look for the hand leaving a trace in the condensation, if it doesn’t you’re OK. Take the movement out and dry the inside of the case by allowing the condensation to evaporate. On a mechanical watch this test can be done using the timegrapher, look for the amplitude falling when the movement us in the case then recovering when the movement us out........can’t do that with a quartz!

Thanks for taking the time to share that advice Paul - very insightful indeed.

Have you ever considered writing a book?

[walkerwek1958]

Have you ever considered writing a book?

Many times!

[scottie2345]

Thanks for taking the time to share that advice Paul - very insightful indeed.

Have you ever considered writing a book?

Thats a +1 from me

Scottie

[Mr Nuttington]

Well, mixed fortunes.

The good news is the new movement was fitted this morning without major problem. Getting the second hand on was fiddly but I got there.

The bad news - I decided to disassemble the bracelet clasp to de-grot it; I can’t quite believe how much muck can fit in there! Anyhow, one of the springs (a coil spring about 10mm long) decided to exit stage left, and has vanished. Any recommendations for sourcing a replacement once I get the vernier out and measure the remaining one properly?