It's not going to be for everyone, but I love staying in Tseun Wan. It's a great place to explore.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tsuen_Wan
In Kowloon, about 40 minutes out from Central on the train. Very few tourists, very busy, safe, great markets. I stay at the Panda. Mid-range, cheap.
https://www.pandahotel.com.hk/en/