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Thread: Garage walls - insulation / skim / dot and dab

  1. #1
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    Garage walls - insulation / skim / dot and dab

    Am sure I've seen a thread on this before but I couldn't find it.

    I have a double-garage (5.25m x 5.70m with twin sectional roller doors) that is currently housing my 911 and 944. Am finding myself spending more time in there at the weekends tinkering with the 944 and it isn't particularly warm! Most of the cold air is coming in from the ceiling so plaster-boarding / insulating this will the first step.

    The left-hand and rear walls are single brick to the outside world. The right-hand wall is single brick / concrete blocks that forms part of the house.

    Ideally I'd like to have the walls plastered and painted so it looks like a proper room like this:



    A couple of questions though please:
    1) - Can I dot and dab the walls (without insulation) or will this encourage damp?
    Note - there looks to be a black membrane about four bricks up on the left-hand wall
    2) - Assuming the above is a no-go I assume a timber frame, insulation, plasterboard and skimming is the next logical step?

    There is enough space for option two as I will only lose 3" at each wall which isn't the end of the world. I just didn't really want the additional hassle of fixing a frame etc...

    Any advice would be appreciated please.

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    Cant really give a great deal of advice but my garage was dot and dabbed with plasterboard, then skimmed with cement before being plastered over, its held up really well in the last 16 years

    I dont have an issue with damp but I do have two large radiators in there , one is turned off and the other only on low , I use a electric fan heater if im there for any length of time working

    Quite an old pic


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    Craftsman Robbo12's Avatar
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    As long as there is no damp on the walls dot and dab will be fine. You can Kingspan between the ceiling joists, plasterboard then skim the ceiling and walls

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    Thanks guys that helps a lot.

    I assume something like this would suffice - https://www.wickes.co.uk/Knauf-Plast...-2-4m/p/220210

    And the big question...is this a DIY job or should I get someone in to sort it professionally?

    FYI - It's a square garage with no recessed electrical sockets (they are going in later and will be wall mounted using 20mm conduit) the only cut-out is the door to the house and a vent pipe for the washing machine in the utility room.

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    If you’re going down the dot and dab route then use thermal insulated plasterboard

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    Simply dry lining it will not make much difference to the insulation / U values to be honest but it may reduce the draughts.

    The best thing if you want to do a proper job (and you decide to add space heating at some point) is use a moisture resistant wall board with a skim coat finish / on vertical battens / on a polythene vapour check against the brickwork (certainly to the external walls) and insulate between the battens with mineral wool, but you could do away with the vapour check if you use a foil-backed board and tape the joints. Also if you use say 100mm battens on the external brick wall(s) you can board over the vertical brick piers (if there are any, forget that if not) so you get a straight / flush internal wall line. Alternatively you could install an insulated plasterboard on the external walls which is what we do in most new-builds these days when the need arises as it does away with the vertical battens and insulation but the materials may be more expensive (swings and roundabouts really). Your walls would have to be nice and straight / plumb though as it's less forgiving but a skim coat should flatten out any kinks / creases. You can then tack the ceiling and skim it, installing some mineral wool or PIR board between the truss chords and add a loft hatch / access panel for maintenance. Also try and seal any gaps around the sectional doors if you can, particularly at the bottom (although it should have a rubber seal there anyway). It won't be Building Control notifiable providing it's still a garage and not a habitable room but use an in tumescent sealant to all the gaps and check all your cavity barriers in the roof etc before you board over. It would be Building Control notifiable though if you put fixed rads / space heating in there connected to the central heating system.

    The reason i say the above is that assuming you add heat at some point the moist warm air can hit the cold brickwork via any air gaps in the finishes (which is pretty much unavoidable) and collect in the air spaces possibly causing some condensation issues. It also protects the internal finishes if the brickwork is on an exposed elevation as you could get some driving rain penetrating the single skin brickwork (which you may not have noticed before as the existing garage would be well ventilated and it would evaporate) which could become trapped behind the dry lining again causing possible damp issues. The upside to the above as well is you could have flush sockets rather than surface mounted which would look much better IMO (you would need an electrician of course to wire them in and fit the recessed wall boxes at first fix).

    That's what i'd do, funds depending, and if you're reasonably handy and have the time you could do it yourself (apart from the electrics). It would be a much better job than simply boarding it out and your Porche's will thank you for it (lovely cars by the way)!

    Hope that helps!
    Last edited by WillHarris2306; 18th February 2019 at 19:10.

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    ^^^^^^Excellent advice here ^^^^^^

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Simply dry lining it will not make much difference to the insulation / U value to be honest but it may reduce the draughts.

    The best thing if you want to do a proper job (and you decide to add space heating at some point) is use a moisture resistant wall board with a skim coat finish / on vertical battens / on a polythene vapour check against the brickwork (certainly to the external walls) and insulate between the battens with mineral wool, but you could do away with the vapour check if you use a foil-backed board and tape the joints. Also if you use say 100mm battens on the external brick wall(s) you can board over the vertical brick piers (if there are any, forget that if not) so you get a straight / flush internal wall line. Alternatively you could install an insulated plasterboard on the external walls which is what we do in most new-builds these days when the need arises as it does away with the vertical battens and insulation but the materials may be more expensive (swings and roundabouts really). Your walls would have to be nice and straight / plumb though as it's less forgiving but a skim coat should flatten out any kinks / creases. You can then tack the ceiling with and skim it, installing some mineral wool or PIR board between the truss chords and add a loft hatch / access panel to for maintenance. Also try and seal any gaps around the sectional doors if you can, particularly at the bottom (although it should have a rubber seal there anyway). It won't be Building Control notifiable providing it's still a garage and not a habitable room but use an in tumescent sealant to all the gaps and check all your cavity barriers in the roof etc before you board over. It would be Building Control notifiable though if you put fixed rads / space heating in there connected to the central heating system.

    The reason i say the above is that assuming you add heat at some point the moist warm air can hit the cold brickwork via any air gaps in the finishes (which is pretty much unavoidable) and collect in the air spaces possibly causing some condensation issues. It also protects the internal finishes if the brickwork is on an exposed elevation as you could get some driving rain penetrating the single skin brickwork (which you may not have noticed before as the existing garage would be well ventilated and it would evaporate) which could become trapped behind the dry lining again causing possible damp issues. The upside to the above as well is you could have flush sockets rather than surface mounted which would look much better IMO (you would need an electrician of course to wire them in and fit the recessed wall boxes at first fix).

    That's what i'd do, funds depending, and if you're reasonably handy and have the time you could do it yourself (apart from the electrics). It would be a much better job than simply boarding it out and your Porche's will thank you for it (lovely cars by the way)!

    Hope that helps!
    Great advice, I really appreciate it.

    I think once the ceiling is taken care of the draught won't be as bad, I just want it to look cosmetically better hence the skim / paint. I think the insulated plasterboard is going to be the best bet, something like this I'm guessing - https://tinyurl.com/y5ty6gcs

    The walls look pretty flat to be honest so I'm hoping the above along with some expanding-foam for a few gaps will suffice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post
    Great advice, I really appreciate it.

    I think once the ceiling is taken care of the draught won't be as bad, I just want it to look cosmetically better hence the skim / paint. I think the insulated plasterboard is going to be the best bet, something like this I'm guessing - https://tinyurl.com/y5ty6gcs

    The walls look pretty flat to be honest so I'm hoping the above along with some expanding-foam for a few gaps will suffice.
    No worries. That's the stuff, and there's loads of them out there (Gyproc, Knauff, Kingspan, Celotex etc) and pretty much all the same technically to be honest (and anything will be an improvement to a completely un-insulated space). Didn't want to come over too tech-heavy but i think if you're going to do it you may as well do it right as is won't cost that much more. Should be pretty straightforward and it's all dry work apart from the skim at the end and it will make a huge difference, not only thermally / comfort-wise but also visually. Done properly it will also last as long as the house.

    Just a couple of other things to mention if you're tackling it yourself - the boards will be 2.4m in length +/- so hopefully your ceiling joists / truss chords are -/= to that (but i'm guessing maybe slightly more) so if that's the case you can perhaps drop the ceiling slightly so that you don't have to cut sections of board as infill which is a pain. Also worth taking into account the floor will likely have a 50mm / 2" fall from the back to the front (towards the main doors) so allow for that, but if you end up with any gaps you can most likely blank off with a skirting and / or coving at the top. All that said if you get someone in to do it let them worry about that!

    I think it will look great and hope it goes well. Post some photos and would love to see that brace of Stuttgart's finest in their new home!

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    No worries. That's the stuff, and there's loads of them out there (Gyproc, Knauff, Kingspan, Celotex etc) and pretty much all the same technically to be honest (and anything will be an improvement to a completely un-insulated space). Didn't want to come over too tech-heavy but i think if you're going to do it you may as well do it right as is won't cost that much more. Should be pretty straightforward and it's all dry work apart from the skim at the end and it will make a huge difference, not only thermally / comfort-wise but also visually. Done properly it will also last as long as the house.

    Just a couple of other things to mention if you're tackling it yourself - the boards will be 2.4m in length +/- so hopefully your ceiling joists / truss chords are -/= to that (but i'm guessing maybe slightly more) so if that's the case you can perhaps drop the ceiling slightly so that you don't have to cut sections of board as infill which is a pain. Also worth taking into account the floor will likely have a 50mm / 2" fall from the back to the front (towards the main doors) so allow for that, but if you end up with any gaps you can most likely blank off with a skirting and / or coving at the top. All that said if you get someone in to do it let them worry about that!

    I think it will look great and hope it goes well. Post some photos and would love to see that brace of Stuttgart's finest in their new home!
    Just measured and they’re 2350cm from the ceiling so a single 2400 should be fine for each segment.

    Good shout re the flooring, the plan is fit either PVC floor tiles or apply epoxy. Either way I’ll be putting some skirting board on so that should hide any gaps at the bottom.

    One more question if I may - can you recommend some decent adhesive to apply the boards to the wall please?

    Sounds like a weekends work so hopefully I can attack it mid-March. Photos to follow :)

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    The best thing if you want to do a proper job (and you decide to add space heating at some point) is use a moisture resistant wall board with a skim coat finish / on vertical battens / on a polythene vapour check against the brickwork (certainly to the external walls) and insulate between the battens with mineral wool, but you could do away with the vapour check if you use a foil-backed board and tape the joints.
    The vapour barrier should be on the room side of the insulation not against the external wall otherwise you will be trapping moisture in the timber frame.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post
    Just measured and they’re 2350cm from the ceiling so a single 2400 should be fine for each segment.

    Good shout re the flooring, the plan is fit either PVC floor tiles or apply epoxy. Either way I’ll be putting some skirting board on so that should hide any gaps at the bottom.

    One more question if I may - can you recommend some decent adhesive to apply the boards to the wall please?

    Sounds like a weekends work so hopefully I can attack it mid-March. Photos to follow :)
    That's a result being less than 2400 as you you don't have cut sections of board (or have large gaps to fill). Re insulated p/board i'm not sure about adhesives as with these type of boards you usually mechanically fix them with a coarse threaded masonry screw like these (they'll just chew into the brick / block with no trouble) :

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ar54g20kaKA

    Although as an esteemed YouTube member commented in this video apparently 'Multifix screws piss all over these', but i can't really comment on that, but i would imagine if you went to Screwfix / Toolstation they would advise on the best fixing for the job (depending on the material you're fixing into i.e. brick, concrete block or insulating block).

    Quote Originally Posted by benny.c View Post
    The vapour barrier should be on the room side of the insulation not against the external wall otherwise you will be trapping moisture in the timber frame.
    Good call actually Benny my mistake.
    Last edited by WillHarris2306; 18th February 2019 at 20:05.

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    Some pretty good details on the Kingspan website that we usually rely on, hopefully of some use :

    https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/pr...d-plasterboard

    It does say you can dot and dab insulated p/boards but if it were me i'd screw / mechanically fix them personally, especially in a garage when they could be subjected to some knocks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Some pretty good details on the Kingspan website that we usually rely on, hopefully of some use :

    https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/pr...d-plasterboard

    It does say you can dot and dab insulated p/boards but if it were me i'd screw / mechanically fix them personally, especially in a garage when they could be subjected to some knocks.
    Thanks for the link, the vids are usefull.

    These look to be suitable - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive...100-pack/1066h

    I may even attack this toward the end of the week as it looks pretty easy.

    Going back to the membrane question, this is on on the interior of the garage but on the wall facing outside. Should I not be plasterboarding over this?

    edit - have just come across Everbuild Pink Grip which may also be usefull. Just need to see if you can use it with insulated boards.
    Last edited by gavsw20; 18th February 2019 at 21:21.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post
    Thanks for the link, the vids are usefull.

    These look to be suitable - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive...100-pack/1066h

    I may even attack this toward the end of the week as it looks pretty easy.

    Going back to the membrane question, this is on on the interior of the garage but on the wall facing outside. Should I not be plasterboarding over this?
    No worries! Re the vapour control as Benny mentioned quite rightly the principle aim is to prevent warm moist air from the room (assuming you may heat the garage) getting past the inner finished surface (i.e. from the warm space) and into the cold space behind which can cause interstitial condensation, but to be honest most insulated plasterboards have an integral VCL (vapour control layer) as part of their construction providing you seal with foil tape so the polythene sheet that you'd usually place behind the plasterboard in the old fashioned way is kind of redundant.

    https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/pr...u-use-in-walls

    If you were going to go belt and braces (if it's an exposed elevation) i'd fix a 500 / 1000 gauge polythene sheet to the brickwork anyway to prevent any wind driven rain from getting into the linings, but to be honest it's probably over-thinking it and a decent layer of mechanically fixed and taped insulated p/board will likely stop any moisture from entering the garage.
    Last edited by WillHarris2306; 18th February 2019 at 21:30.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post
    Thanks for the link, the vids are usefull.

    These look to be suitable - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive...100-pack/1066h

    I may even attack this toward the end of the week as it looks pretty easy.

    Going back to the membrane question, this is on on the interior of the garage but on the wall facing outside. Should I not be plasterboarding over this?

    edit - have just come across Everbuild Pink Grip which may also be usefull. Just need to see if you can use it with insulated boards.
    This is accepted good practice and the standard detail for timber framed construction. In your case you can omit the OSB and breather membrane.





    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    If you were going to go belt and braces (if it's an exposed elevation) i'd fix a 500 / 1000 gauge polythene sheet to the brickwork anyway to prevent any wind driven rain from getting into the linings, but to be honest it's probably over-thinking it and a decent layer of mechanically fixed and taped insulated p/board will likely stop any moisture from entering the garage.
    That would still be trapping moisture in the timber stud. Any membrane on the cold side of the insulation needs to be a breather membrane rather than VCL. Something like Tyvek Housewrap.
    Last edited by benny.c; 19th February 2019 at 00:45.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benny.c View Post
    This is accepted good practice and the standard detail for timber framed construction. In your case you can omit the OSB and breather membrane.

    That would still be trapping moisture in the timber stud. Any membrane on the cold side of the insulation needs to be a breather membrane rather than VCL. Something like Tyvek Housewrap.


    Fair enough Benny, good advice re the Tyvek, stand corrected. Perhaps when i said a VCL i should have suggested a DPC strip behind each batten but again that's probably belt and braces if the wall is likely to get wet which is unlikely plus it will be well ventilated from the outside. The detail i was suggesting with the DPM is similar to a basement tanking detail though which we spec all the time and don't have any condensation issues, at least not yet! (i.e. we tank the brickwork and omit the VCL on the room side, use a foil backed and taped board and add passive vents if necessary after carrying out a CRA). That said in this situation (with much respect) i would say it's more like this which i sent to the OP previously as i think he wants to use an insulated p/board now, although yours is similar in principle to the previous method as a timber frame and you can omit the VCL if you use certain suitably durable / moisture resistant products and foil backed and taped boards.

    Either way it's perhaps being over-thought (we're always guilty of that as we often have to deal with pretty complex situations) as it's pretty low-risk being a simple garage and any condensation that may form will likely escape / vent through the many gaps that will likely exist at the top and bottom of the linings.

    Best thing OP, if you want my opinion (probably not, as Benny correctly pointed out i got a couple of things wrong!), is find a couple of products that fit within your budget and call their Technical Services Dept as they're all very well versed in condensation risk and which correct fixings to use for their specific product. Either that or the guys at the builders merchants may be able to advise, at least with the fixings. Just be careful with the length of the fixings as they may go straight through to the other side being only a single skin (seen that done a few times believe it or not).

    Best of luck and let us know how you get on!
    Last edited by WillHarris2306; 19th February 2019 at 11:50.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post

    edit - have just come across Everbuild Pink Grip which may also be usefull. Just need to see if you can use it with insulated boards.
    Avoid using pink grip, it's not the product you need and is of no use if you follow the advice of using mechanical fixed battens as indicated above ^^

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    Very interesting read. Thank you all.
    Without wishing to hijack this thread, Please may I quickly ask:
    I have a small porch area that appears to have been tacked onto the front of my house by some shoddy builders years a go. That I have just stripped back to the brickwork. Since it seemed the easiest way of dealing with the horror that was floor to ceiling artex on plasterboad.
    I have been wondering how best to insulate, since it is extremely drafty and cold. Without reducing what is already a very tight and confined space.
    Can I apply the very useful advice in this thread in this instance as well? Simply replace the plaster board with insulated stuff as per the diagram above?
    Maybe use some expanding foam in any gaps beforehand?

    Sent from my SM-A320FL using TZ-UK mobile app

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Fair enough Benny, good advice re the Tyvek, stand corrected. Perhaps when i said a VCL i should have suggested a DPC strip behind each batten but again that's probably belt and braces if the wall is likely to get wet which is unlikely plus it will be well ventilated from the outside.
    Yeah, that’s what I’d usually spec if insulting directly on to a solid wall if the client was concerned about losing space or didn’t want the extra cost of a complete timber stud inner leaf.

    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Either way it's perhaps being over-thought (we're always guilty of that as we often have to deal with pretty complex situations) as it's pretty low-risk being a simple garage and any condensation that may form will likely escape / vent through the many gaps that will likely exist at the top and bottom of the linings.
    I think you’re correct. Garages aren’t exactly air tight either with the big gaps around doors etc

    Quote Originally Posted by Holy Moses View Post
    Can I apply the very useful advice in this thread in this instance as well? Simply replace the plaster board with insulated stuff as per the diagram above?
    Maybe use some expanding foam in any gaps beforehand?
    Yes, that last detail posted is the easiest and most cost effective method other than bonding directly to the wall. As others have posted though, I’d always prefer a mechanical fixing rather than bonding.
    Last edited by benny.c; 19th February 2019 at 09:48.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benny.c View Post
    Yeah, that’s what I’d usually spec if insulting directly on to a solid wall if the client was concerned about losing space or didn’t want the extra cost of a complete timber stud inner leaf.


    I think you’re correct. Garages aren’t exactly air tight either with the big gaps around doors etc


    Yes, that last detail posted is the easiest and most cost effective method other than bonding directly to the wall. As others have posted though, I’d always prefer a mechanical fixing rather than bonding.
    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    Avoid using pink grip, it's not the product you need and is of no use if you follow the advice of using mechanical fixed battens as indicated above ^^

    Do you mind me asking what you do guys out of interest? Sounds like you've both got a solid background in construction. I'm an Architectural Technologist for my sins but getting more and more rusty these days, particularly with thermal design / energy efficiency as we tend to farm it out to specialists these days!
    Last edited by WillHarris2306; 19th February 2019 at 10:48.

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    I’m an architect. 100% agree about the thermal design, it’s getting harder and harder to do in house. I used to do my own SAP calcs but it’s easier and more cost effective to farm them out now. As you pointed out earlier, it’s best to speak with the manufacturers and have them spec details where possible.

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    Quote Originally Posted by benny.c View Post
    I’m an architect. 100% agree about the thermal design, it’s getting harder and harder to do in house. I used to do my own SAP calcs but it’s easier and more cost effective to farm them out now. As you pointed out earlier, it’s best to speak with the manufacturers and have them spec details where possible.
    Ahh thought you might be Benny! I'm working on a pretty complicated mixed-use development as we speak (commercial, industrial / warehouse with residential over) and it's driving me nuts! Keeps me busy though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Do you mind me asking what you do guys out of interest? Sounds like you've both got a solid background in construction. I'm an Architectural Technologist for my sins but getting more and more rusty these days, particularly with thermal design / energy efficiency as we tend to farm it out to specialists these days!
    I'm a domestic level builder for the last 35 yrs

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    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    I'm a domestic level builder for the last 35 yrs
    Nice one Reggie. Reckon we should go into business as we've got a good team here!

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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Keeps me busy though.
    That's the main thing! I do mainly residential work and new builds with the odd bit of commercial and industrial thrown in.

    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    I'm a domestic level builder for the last 35 yrs
    Do you work South Liverpool at all? I've got an extension in Woolton on the go and I don't know many builders over the water.

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    Thanks for all of the above detail.

    To clarify, is the attached what I should be looking to do please?

    This assumes the use of no wooden batons nor adhesive.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Quote Originally Posted by benny.c View Post
    That's the main thing! I do mainly residential work and new builds with the odd bit of commercial and industrial thrown in.


    Do you work South Liverpool at all? I've got an extension in Woolton on the go and I don't know many builders over the water.
    I do indeed benny, PM me to continue off the board

    Cheers

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    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    I do indeed benny, PM me to continue off the board

    Cheers
    Sorry Reggie i quoted the wrong post.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post
    Thanks for all of the above detail.

    To clarify, is the attached what I should be looking to do please?

    This assumes the use of no wooden batons nor adhesive.
    I would do it as per the Kingspan detail if you're going to use an insulated p/board to be honest, as it's an established detail and the battens will provide a space for services / cabling assuming you want wall sockets? You could just fix the boards straight to the wall i guess but it's not ideal. Someone else may come along and advise on this, maybe Reggie as he's an experienced builder and would be be able to comment on the practicalities / advantages / pitfalls of doing that.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    I would do it as per the Kingspan detail if you're going to use an insulated p/board to be honest, as it's an established detail and the battens will provide a space for services / cabling assuming you want wall sockets? You could just fix the boards straight to the wall i guess but it's not ideal. Someone else may come along and advise on this, maybe Reggie as he's an experienced builder and would be be able to comment on the practicalities / advantages / pitfalls of doing that.
    Having the wall sockets exposed is not a real issue TBH but a good point made.

    Update - Just been out with the tape-measure and I have exactly 28mm of space between the garage wall and the framework for the automatic garage doors. This is likely to make the timber framework a struggle on those parts of the walls :(

  33. #33
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    Made a start by knocking the central wall down between the two garages. Two hours with the lump hammer, 1.6tonne of concrete, along with eight trips* to the local tip, and we have something that resembles a double-garage.

    All swept up and looking relatively tidy now. I have a plasterer over later this week for a price to skim the soon-to-be-insulated/plastered walls.

    *After the sixth trip I got pulled up and was told to use the weigh-bridge. £4 per 100kilo so wasn’t too bad as only had a couple more car-loads to do.

  34. #34
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    I work for these people, if i can help you out any.

    http://www.resistant.co.uk/

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavsw20 View Post
    Made a start by knocking the central wall down between the two garages. Two hours with the lump hammer, 1.6tonne of concrete, along with eight trips* to the local tip, and we have something that resembles a double-garage.

    All swept up and looking relatively tidy now. I have a plasterer over later this week for a price to skim the soon-to-be-insulated/plastered walls.

    *After the sixth trip I got pulled up and was told to use the weigh-bridge. £4 per 100kilo so wasn’t too bad as only had a couple more car-loads to do.
    Bloody hell you took it all down in your car? I tip my hat to your resolve but you could have got a skip for £150. Fair play to you though!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Bloody hell you took it all down in your car? I tip my hat to your resolve but you could have got a skip for £150. Fair play to you though!
    Well, when I say the car I mean the other half’s X3 and the old-mans estate.

    I looked at a skip but couldn’t get one until today and I'm impatient. Plus I would have only needed the thing for about 6hours !

    Plasterer has said £250 for all the walls which isn’t too bad.

  37. #37
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    Nice one sounds like you're getting to grips with the project. Be interesting to see some photos when it's done!

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by WillHarris2306 View Post
    Nice one sounds like you're getting to grips with the project. Be interesting to see some photos when it's done!
    Am taking photos as I go along, although an Cheltenham most of next week and then on holiday for a fortnight after that so it likely won't be completed until the end of April.

    Have decided to go for this in the end with mechanical fixings - https://www.insulationsuperstore.co....mm-x-22mm.html

    Not overly expensive but will serve a purpose on the walls, the ceiling (which is where the majority of the cold is coming from) will be insulated with 50mm PIR in the rafters with plasterboard on top, skimmed and then painted.

    Hopefully I notice a difference !

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