It makes me chuckle that some conspicuous consumers have no problem spunking over a grand on an iPhone X made entirely in China, yet scream the house down at the thought of a single component in their "Swiss" watch being made there.
It makes me chuckle that some conspicuous consumers have no problem spunking over a grand on an iPhone X made entirely in China, yet scream the house down at the thought of a single component in their "Swiss" watch being made there.
Rolex promoted this very idea decades ago (1965, if the source of the first pic is correct) with those ads showing a man’s Sub under a suit cuff. They had ads for women, as well, (Hopefully she removes the seaweed.)
Capitalizing on 1960s Bondmania? Of course. You do not have to be a Yank or a Bond wannabe to succumb to that, Rolex has been fueling that fire for a long, long time.
With all the white gold and precision detailing, I think Rolex believes they’ve made the Sub a dress watch, and most of their customers drink the Kool-Aid. I believe it’s the minority of WIS types who are immune to this hype.
Last edited by ChromeJob; 15th February 2019 at 16:57. Reason: example ads attached
I think the whole concept of anyone on a watch forum saying what someone should or shouldn't consider a dress watch is a bit bizarre to me. I'm very anti fashion though. The whole 'this is what you should be wearing this season's is a marketing masterpiece. Some people can easily look great in a suit with a Sub on and some just look silly. I personally couldn't wear a Panerai but I purchased a watch from A TZer a while back and his looked like it was made for him.
There are basic style tenets that transcend fashion or even eras. "Never brown in town." Shoes and belt should match. Socks should not be more garish than the pants fabric with a suit. Certain types of watches with a tuxedo. Sure, many flout such conventions, but that's a personal style choice (or utter ignorance; better to know the standard and thoughtfully deviate from it IMHO).
In Goldfinger, Bond pulling back his white tuxedo cuff to peer at his dive watch on a nylon band was something of an anomaly, because of course the man is a complete anomaly, checking to see when his incendiary explosives will ignite. The success of the film, and the character, now makes it a style icon many want to imitate.
Back to Tudor ... I think the plaudits for the Black Bay 58 are a result of it being small enough that it CAN be worn under a shirt cuff, like that 1965 Rolex ad, and it has rose gold detailing that probably convinces many that it goes just dandy with a suit. I think it muddies the waters of Tudor vs. Rolex because seen under a loupe, the 58's detailing and precision are on par with its big brothers, but at a more widely attainable price point.
Last edited by ChromeJob; 15th February 2019 at 17:10.
Partly wrong, I suspect - at least as regards Rolex, who maintain their own in-house foundry (https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-rolex) and are perhaps the epitome of 'in house' (alongside Seiko), despite an interesting historical company arrangement.
In terms of Omega, I've read on numerous occasions that some parts - e.g. bracelets - originate from the Far East, but I'm not able to state that with certainty. As to Tudor, I don't have a clue.
The 'Swiss Made' standard is certainly far less rigorous than most would assume, so things like movements especially can be majority manufactured in the Far East, but labelled as 'Swiss Made' if they are assembled & inspected in Switzerland, with 60% of final cost derived from Switzerland (until recently it was 50%). It's not hard to imagine that the 60% bar is quite easily met when considering the level of Swiss wages and what it would cost for even a modicum of human adaptation, decoration, QC etc., compared to the initial costs of churning out the machine-made starting point. At the top levels though, a very high percentage would originate from Switzerland.
Chinese manufacturing is not necessarily cheap or shoddy - far from it - and it mostly makes little practical difference really when talking about simple components, but if 'Swiss Made' is being used as a justification of cost, then it really should be what it purports to be. However, the entire industry is riddled with 'smoke & mirrors' so I take such things with a pinch of salt anyway.
Best comment I’ve read today.
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