What are the signs of bigger watches "going out of style"?

[JPE]

Yeah the age old big vs. small debate. Flame on.

What do you think it's the main reason that small watches have gone out of style? Rolex two-tone 36mm DateJust was probably their best seller for decades. Now they're dirt cheap in the preowned market (if you can ever call Rolex "cheap"). That styling doesn't "speak" to our generation.

Look at the vintage Seamasters. If it's a small dress watch it costs a few hundred pounds/Euros... but if it's one of those bulkier ones, you can add one digit more to the asking price. Look at Air-King and Precision prices. They're the cheapest pre-owned Rolexes you can buy. Vintage ExpI's are the exception to the rule (for whatever reason). All 40mm 5-digits are increasing rapidly... except for 16570... because it wears much smaller than the others (that's my guess).

Gold is out of fashion too and it has been like that since the early 2000's. I appreciate gold watches and love them... but I feel uncomfortable wearing them, especially with casual clothing.

Are the small watches unwearable because a lot of men these days go to the gym and generally have thicker wrists than men of yesterday?

Let's take the old Zenith Flyback Rainbow for example. The old model is gorgeous but a bit too small for me... but the new one is just plain overboard (imho). I'm a 6'3 man with thick wrists but I'd never consider wearing that one.

Since 2005 everybody has said that the bigger watch trend is going out of style. Is it really? What are the signs of that? Even manufacturers like Zenith make XXL watches now.

[Der Amf]

Gold is out of fashion too and it has been like that since the early 2000's.

Have you looked at a display of fashion watches in the last five years? Gold all over the place.

[mtagrant]

Interesting post. I don’t think that big watches are going out of style, more the manufacturers are recognising that everyone is different, and some prefer larger and some smaller. Perhaps initially watches got bigger and left a gap with fewer smaller watches available (I have no evidence of this). I think now they are making large and small to cater for mutiple tastes and where we are seeing downsizing, it is as much about getting the proportions right as going smaller again.

Today I put on a watch that I bought new in 2003 and it felt tiny - not something I would wear today, and took it off again quickly. Most of my collection is 42mm or larger with a few exceptions, and I am very happy with that.

[JPE]

Some people said that "Rolex had to do what they had to do" when the 6-digit came out. They didn't increase the size but they made the cases more "Breitlingsque".

I think it was a mistake as they ruined the classic, beautiful lines. To me it was like Porsche going from 993 to 996 and those "Boxter" headlamps.

I only like the new "Polar" Explorer II which was the only model (to me) that really needed a small size increase.

Yeah I love the 4- and 5-digits. And a lot of WIS do. But we're definitely in the minority. I have a feeling increasing the lug size hasn't affected Rolex sales at all (considering the constant shortage). Au contrary I think it was a huge commercial success.

I'm sure Daytona is next one to receive larger case.

Is Omega selling many two-tone men's Constellations? I don't think so. But they did back in the eighties and nineties.

Or is it just that the _styling_ is outdated on both DJ and Connie? Maybe it's not the size... maybe they just look too "eighties"?

[Foxyadam]

Don’t agree sorry. 36mm Datejust is IMO perfect.

[JPE]

Don’t agree sorry. 36mm Datejust is IMO perfect.

I think it's very nice too. But my point was that the _market_ doesn't think so (if the asking prices are any kind of indicator).

PS: This is absolutely beautiful. One of my friend's DJ. Smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet doesn't really make it the most traditional DJ but it sure looks great.

[Foxyadam]

I think it's very nice too. But my point was that the _market_ doesn't think so (if the asking prices are any kind of indicator).

PS: This is absolutely beautiful. One of my friend's DJ. Smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet doesn't really make it the most traditional DJ but it sure looks great.

That looks beautiful

[pacchi]

No, too small even if you drive a Mini....(the Romans do not help IMHO)

[LorneG]

On one hand, with beige now being the most popular new car colour and my uber-fashionable daughter wearing flared trousers, I think the 1970's are on their way back.

On the other hand, the Mini (steering wheel picture) shows that today's versions of things tend to be quite a lot bigger.

Best exercise I know for improving wrist diameter is writing. (can't think of any others)

[JGJG]

Watches are getting smaller and golder.

Ryan Thingy. Even GQ, which isn’t exactly fashion forward, has written up the trend https://www.gq.com/gallery/best-smal...hes-under-38mm.

[JamieTheBarber]

I would say that smaller watches are becoming more popular in my opinion especially amongst 18-35 year olds. I often see bi-metal and steel dj’s or vintage pieces from omega and longines on the wrists of Millennials. Might just be because of accessibility or the likes of GQ, Hodinkee and Theo&Harris singing the praises of smaller, slimmer watches. Just my opinion and observation of course!


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[Nealywheelie]

Yes, the watch in question. It's lovely, but at 36mm, tiny, IMHO.


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[TimeThoughts]

The latest IWC spitfire pilot editions have pulled back by about 1mm.

I have only one watch over 40mm (Speedy) and as I get older and my taste matures I find myself avoiding larger watches and I believe 38mm is the perfect size.

[beechcustom]

For what it's worth, that DJ36 looks perfect size wise imo. I have 7.25inch wrists and I tried a DJ41 on recently. My girlfriend said it looked 'silly'. I tried the DJ36 on and she said, 'perfect. Now you are wearing the watch rather than the watch wearing you.

[Nealywheelie]

Here's my 46mm Breitling Chronospace on my 7-1/4'' wrist.....I'm 5'8-1/2'' tall, medium build.....

But my Fortis B42 Official Cosmonauts is quite a beast in comparison.

[TF23]

For what it's worth, that DJ36 looks perfect size wise imo. I have 7.25inch wrists and I tried a DJ41 on recently. My girlfriend said it looked 'silly'. I tried the DJ36 on and she said, 'perfect. Now you are wearing the watch rather than the watch wearing you.

Excellent.

Marry her without delay as she clearly has her head screwed on right.

[beechcustom]

Excellent.

Marry her without delay as she clearly has her head screwed on right.

If all goes well intend to. She also said that I am not elegant enough to rock a DJ (fluted bezel, white dial with romans on jubilee)..... and you know...she was right. I'm a musician with a casual style and a sports rolex best suits me. I ended up getting a GMT BLNR which she loves on me. I want to get her a 31mm DJ when the time is right. She most definitely is elegant enough to rock a DJ.

[Wazza]

I think it all depends on the watch. I wouldn't wear an oversized Breitling or a 45.5mm Planet Ocean

However, my JLC is really easy at 46.3mm and being Titanium, extremely comfortable too.

[Derivative]

The difference in size between those two is staggering! Never thought they’d be so far apart. Makes me like the older model even more!
And it’s interesting to note from the sub dials placement that the movement remains the same size, or similar.


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[JPE]

The difference in size between those two is staggering! Never thought they’d be so far apart. Makes me like the older model even more!
And it’s interesting to note from the sub dials placement that the movement remains the same size, or similar.

It would have been perfect if they had just increased the size to 42mm and kept everything from the old styling intact.

At 39mm it was a little too small.

Yes the new model is just stupid looking and grossly oversized.

[Jonesinamillion]

There were some really garishly large watches a decade or so ago and these seem to be fizzling out, I think it's just a return to a normal / reasonable size.

A lot is down to personal preference, for me, regardless of "trend", anything between 38-42 is just about right depending on how it sits / wears / feels / looks.

On a slightly different note, for me gold just doesn't work colour wise, but strangley brass / bronze does. Nor does PVD. Its got to be stainless (or brass / bronze).

[tipster]

40mm is the perfect size and always will be .

[JPE]

40mm is the perfect size and always will be .

Depends on the bezel and case shape.

Explorer II 16570 is 40mm in theory but it wears MUCH smaller than SUB/GMT/SD because of the smooth bezel.

Daytona is 40mm and as much as I respect the watch it wears very small. Those long pushers even increase the effect.

But I agree that traditional Sub/GMT/SD 40mm is perfect size. But 40mm is a small diameter for a chronograph.

[gbn13]

Depends on the bezel and case shape.

Explorer II 16570 is 40mm in theory but it wears MUCH smaller than SUB/GMT/SD because of the smooth bezel.

Daytona is 40mm and as much as I respect the watch it wears very small. Those long pushers even increase the effect.

But I agree that traditional Sub/GMT/SD 40mm is perfect size. But 40mm is a small diameter for a chronograph.

To me how a watch “wears” is a combination of case and dial size, lug to lug, proportions of lugs in relation to the case, thickness and in some instances the colour of the dial. The case size alone is a poor proxy for how a watch will likely wear.

My take is that the 16570 does not wear smaller than a comparable Submariner/GMT. It would even say that the white dial on the Polar 16570 makes it look larger than the other two.

I think that I have previously read that a Daytona isn’t actually a 40mm case, but fractionally under 39mm. The lug to lug is also less than Exp2/Sub/GMT. No surprise that it is generally regarded as wearing smaller.

[mindforge]

Agree, it looks perfect. It's not about the diameter, but the overall fit and proportions of the watch. As mentioned above re the Tuna, lug length make a bug difference, as does the purpose of the watch. Watch faces don't need to fill your whole wrist up, especially not more formal ones.

[Normunds]

I see case sizes are definitely shrinking back to wearable 38-40mm.

Discussions about what is large or small watch reminds me late 90's, early 2000's when anything above 38mm was qualified as oversized, even Speedmaster. Now Speedmaster is largely regarded as small sized chronograph :)

[lughugger]

I see case sizes are definitely shrinking back to wearable 38-40mm.

Discussions about what is large or small watch reminds me late 90's, early 2000's when anything above 38mm was qualified as oversized, even Speedmaster. Now Speedmaster is largely regarded as small sized chronograph :)

I think that it’s impossible to talk in absolutes re case size. I have an 18cm or 7 1/8” wrist and the Moonwatch looks ridiculous on me due to the L2L being too long for the shape of my wrist.

Generally speaking, for me L2L is a more important measurement than case size.



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[MartynJC (UK)]

Generally speaking, for me L2L is a more important measurement than case size.

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Tend to agree.

A good fit (I think) depends on:

• wrist profile - the measures wrist width. Mine is a fairly flat wrist
• watch lug-lug across watch - if that exceeds the wrist width - too large
• Lug shape - some are carefully designed to curve down - some are straight and tend to stick out
• Weight / depth of case - if a heavy watch combined with thickness this can make the watch uncomfortable
• bezel / watch face size - watches with little or no bezel appear much larger than one with a large bezel (I always think the Zenith Portuguese look so much larger than say a Flyback for same diameter)
• an adjustable bracelet!

The diameter of a watch does not always give a great indicator of fit. There are many factors.

Back to the original thoughts. There does seem to be a general move to offer different sizes I guess more aligned to the Chinese markets. Breitling’s new offerings come in a range of sizes instead of ‘huge’. OMEGA offer ranges, even Rolex has sizes. So it is up to the customer to choose what they want / like. Interestingly Patek has been ‘upsizing ‘ with the latest Aquanaut version - but maybe their R&D cycles are quite long. In any case they still offer 39mm Calatrava as standard case sizes.

Materials? Contrary to our bubble view - gold still sells. The higher end are in precious metals, gold platinum etc. (Above the mass produced Rolex, LVMH, Swatch productions). Can’t see that changing.


That’s what I think anyway.

Martyn.

[Itizme]

Whilst window shopping yesterday came across an oris prodiver, at a mere 51mm. It was quite thick too.
I can't see how that would work in a day to day situation.
Sizes need to vary as everyone is different but at what point is it too much?

[Stringer]

The majority of men are of average-sized wrist themselves but also personally oblivious as to how silly they look sporting watches that are too large for them - either too large for their wrist, or just too large to remain in keeping with the general style they're going for.

36-38mm can work fine for the majority in reality, and often looks more elegant and in-proportion, depending upon wearing circumstances. If you cultivate a smart attire, suit etc., but have an over-sized dive watch dangling out of your cuff, then you just look like an off-duty boxer, footballer or 'Made In Chelsea' cast member who's trying too hard to show off a status symbol.

[JPE]

The majority of men are of average-sized wrist themselves but also personally oblivious as to how silly they look sporting watches that are too large for them - either too large for their wrist, or just too large to remain in keeping with the general style they're going for.

36-38mm can work fine for the majority in reality, and often looks more elegant and in-proportion, depending upon wearing circumstances. If you cultivate a smart attire, suit etc., but have an over-sized dive watch dangling out of your cuff, then you just look like an off-duty boxer, footballer or 'Made In Chelsea' cast member who's trying too hard to show off a status symbol.

WHAT????!! Are you suggesting that Breitling Super Avenger isn't for everyone?

That's pure hate speech, plain and simple. :D

[ColDaspin]

Agree, it looks perfect. It's not about the diameter, but the overall fit and proportions of the watch. As mentioned above re the Tuna, lug length make a bug difference, as does the purpose of the watch. Watch faces don't need to fill your whole wrist up, especially not more formal ones.

Yes, that does look perfect. I'm sure many men who buy big watches are under the mistaken belief that it looks 'manlier' but the opposite is more often true. Bigger watches tend to make small wrists look smaller whereas a smaller watch can help a small wrist appear bigger.

A watch's lug to lug is more important than its diameter and a wrist's width is more important than its circumference. Going one step further, wrist type is also important: I have a 6 3/4 in wrist but it's also 'slim' in the sense that it's pretty much skin and bone. As a result, thick watches just don't look good on it. Fleshier wrists can take thicker watches, as can hairier ones, as they both give the illusion of greater depth.

[walkerwek1958]

Lug to lug dimension certainly has an influence, some of the 34 mm vintage watches are surprisingly ‘long’.

It’s ironic that people try to squeeze into clothes that are too small when they put weight on, yet the opposite seems to apply with watches.

Imagine a situation where slim sizes of jeans were seen as unfashionable; despite the fact that 32” waist fits nicely the new ‘look’ would be 36” waist jeans with a big belt wrapped around to hold them up.....thin folks would walk around looking like clowns whilst the the larger people would say everything’s fine!

[julian2002]

I have big wrists and can get away with big watches, my collection consists of mainly 42mm watches with a few outliers up to 48 and down to 36. I'm really hopeful that manufacturers realize that one size fits all doesn;t really work and provide different sizes of the same or similar design. Brietling, Tudor and others seem to realize this and I applaud and support them with my custom.
Sometimes though a watch has to be big or small due to use or tradition, a fleiger has to be big and easily readable with a glance or it's not fit for purpose, similarly a 46mm Rolex Datejust would be a travesty.

[marschv]

What would Papa Hemingway say if you told him he was wearing a ladies watch (before he punched you in the mouth)?

[Tetlee]

Thought of this thread after seeing this pic while reading boxing news this morning.

[Montello]

Rolex Explorer – 36mm. Perfect watch
[url=https://postimg.cc/image/g7t9dxior/]
[/url<https://s17.postimg.org/dqhi6nysf/explorer_114270.jpg%5b/img%5d%5b/url>]

[JamieTheBarber]

Rolex Explorer – 36mm. Perfect watch
[url=https://postimg.cc/image/g7t9dxior/]
[/url<https://s17.postimg.org/dqhi6nysf/explorer_114270.jpg%5b/img%5d%5b/url>]

Couldn’t agree more!


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[bedlam]

What would Papa Hemingway say if you told him he was wearing a ladies watch (before he punched you in the mouth)

Sure, lets take fashion cues from the past...cos they are from older times they must know stuff!

[Itsguy]

Sure, lets take fashion cues from the past...cos they are from older times they must know stuff!

Personally I thinks it’s some of today’s larger and more gaudy watches that will be filed alongside these looks in the not too distant future...


(More gems here)

[marschv]

Sure, lets take fashion cues from the past...cos they are from older times they must know stuff!

No fair using a counterexample from outside of the civilized world!

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[bobbee]

What would Papa Hemingway say if you told him he was wearing a ladies watch (before he punched you in the mouth)?

Here he is in 1915 and 1918 wearing something even smaller!

[mitch1956]

think there should be all sizes to fit all, however if the only made 37mm and below sizes or over 44mm, I would walk away form buying any more watches. size I believe is like beauty , in the eye of the beholder.

[snowman]

We seem to tread this ground repeatedly, but the truth seems to be that it's not as simple as Xmm is the perfect size.

Watches with bezels look smaller on the wrist than those without and, obviously, a big watch on a small wrist is very much a case of preference, some do end up looking like comedy watches, but some like that style.

Watches with long lugs look bigger than those with shorter lugs, too.

Personally, as I get older, I value a nice clear dial and a bigger one is easier to read, but that can't account for the general swing to bigger watches.

Maybe a part of it is that, to many, even wearing a watch is a 'statement', so people want the watch they wear to be more prominent?

M

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[JPE]

We seem to tread this ground repeatedly

Yes. We've also seen Rolex Submariners and Omega Speedmaster repeatedly but we never get tired of them.

My idea was to discuss WHY the small watches went out of style... and _why_ they were desirable in the old days but not anymore.

I think the main reason is that most men go to the gym now and they are a lot more muscled than in the old days. Wrists are bigger, men are bigger (and sometimes fatter too haha).

[walkerwek1958]

Going to the gym has very marginal effects on wrist size, unlike excess body fat which definitely has an effect.

On average, humans are probably becoming slightly bigger in developed countries, but this is insignificant over the timeframe we’re considering.

That leaves us with the most likely reason, which is fashion, coupled with a perception that wearing a big watch is ‘manly’. The two are interlinked.

What’s interesting is the way Rolex resisted this trend until fairly recently (circa 2010), but they swayed with the wind eventually.

[33JS]

What’s interesting is the way Rolex resisted this trend until fairly recently (circa 2010), but they swayed with the wind eventually.

But, they've cleverly strangled supply so that they don't have loads of huge pieces kicking around window displays. Just the odd DSSD now and then...

[snowman]

Yes. We've also seen Rolex Submariners and Omega Speedmaster repeatedly but we never get tired of them.

Speak for yourself, but that wasn't the point I was making...

My idea was to discuss WHY the small watches went out of style... and _why_ they were desirable in the old days but not anymore.

I think the main reason is that most men go to the gym now and they are a lot more muscled than in the old days. Wrists are bigger, men are bigger (and sometimes fatter too haha).

Indeed - I think I addressed that.

I don't think it's to do with wrists growing enormously due to gym use.

In fact, as Walkerwek says, I don't think going to the gym has any significant effect on wrist size at all (poor diet might!)

It's mostly just fashion and maybe, as I mentioned, that because wearing a watch is no longer a functional thing, but a 'statement' of sorts, so people want the watch more visible.

M

[Passenger]

Speak for yourself, but that wasn't the point I was making...



Indeed - I think I addressed that.

I don't think it's to do with wrists growing enormously due to gym use.

In fact, as Walkerwek says, I don't think going to the gym has any significant effect on wrist size at all (poor diet might!)

It's mostly just fashion and maybe, as I mentioned, that because wearing a watch is no longer a functional thing, but a 'statement' of sorts, so people want the watch more visible.

M

I suspect your final point is on the money.

[lughugger]

My idea was to discuss WHY the small watches went out of style... and _why_ they were desirable in the old days but not anymore.

They didn’t. I bought a 36mm watch last week!


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