That sort of rideout is its forte, I'd say Tony. Can't remember how many miles we did (considerably more than we were supposed toOriginally Posted by learningtofly
) but it was eminently doable. I don't remember needing any ice on the gentleman's area by the time I got home ;)
That makes the Flat Tracker even more tempting, damn youThat sort of rideout is its forte, I'd say Tony. Can't remember how many miles we did (considerably more than we were supposed to
There are plenty of reviews on You Tube for the other models they do too. Some of them can be picked up for very reasonable money.
Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
There are two main issues with distance (assuming that rain isn't a factor):That makes the Flat Tracker even more tempting, damn you
1) The seat has somewhat sharp edges. This could easily be solved by having it trimmed a little to soften the side shape, and would also improve standover height. The FT has a different seat though, which may be better/worse.
2) Vibrations will kill an iPhone camera. Which means satnav is more tricky, if you rely on such devilish trickery. I just managed to kill the camera in my 11 pro max with the SP Connect "vibration damping" clamp. If that can't withstand the vibes, nothing will (the Quadlock was even quicker to kill a previous phone). That said, it could be fixed by using any phone which doesn't have optical image stabilisation. Also, those vibes don't really make it through to the rider, so it's not tiring in that respect.
Hope that helps
Not sure, but thanks anywayThere are two main issues with distance (assuming that rain isn't a factor):
1) The seat has somewhat sharp edges. This could easily be solved by having it trimmed a little to soften the side shape, and would also improve standover height. The FT has a different seat though, which may be better/worse.
2) Vibrations will kill an iPhone camera. Which means satnav is more tricky, if you rely on such devilish trickery. I just managed to kill the camera in my 11 pro max with the SP Connect "vibration damping" clamp. If that can't withstand the vibes, nothing will (the Quadlock was even quicker to kill a previous phone). That said, it could be fixed by using any phone which doesn't have optical image stabilisation. Also, those vibes don't really make it through to the rider, so it's not tiring in that respect.
Hope that helps
Hi, so here's a question about chain oil, if my bike has chain wax on it and it's going to be stored in the garage for at least a couple of months, if i buy wd40 chain lube can i just spray this on the chain (avoiding making a mess) and will this penetrate the chain wax or do i have to remove the chain wax first?
Just been out for a short test ride on a Scrambler 1200...
Very nice indeed. Great engine, excellent comfort, decent handling and a nice noise. Contemplating swapping my CB1100, although jumping back on the Honda to ride home, I realised it will not be an easy decision.
personally i'd remove the wax with paraffin (or other chain cleaner) then re apply , any reason you are changing from a dry lube to a wet one?
No reason, i've just purchased a nice bike and my mate dropped it off for me, he showed me it had chain wax on and recommended buying some chain oil whilst its in the garage for the next few months (my first bike and still waiting to pass full test) so i was about o order some chain oil but wasn't sure if the oil would penetrate the wax, or should i just buy some more chain wax and use that?
i'd just continue using wax , remember that bike chain maintenance involves removing the dirt and crap with a cleaner then re applying your chain lubricant of choice (its not just a case of keep spraying it over the top - though you can get away with it a few times usually before the crud builds up)
i apply ACF50 once or twice a year to stop any rust forming anywhere else on the bike.
*getting yourself a paddock stand or similar makes this and chain adjustment easy
Last edited by pugster; 9th July 2020 at 16:00.
There are a lot of myths about chains and lubrication.
In the good old days the oil needed to penetrate the rollers to keep them lubricated.
Now, everything but the cheapest chain will have an o-ring, or an x-ring or a somethingorother-ring to seal the rollers for life, so the main job of the chain lube is to stop the outside of the chain going rusty and the o-rings drying out
Hang on, let's not duplicate stuff... watch this -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnPYdcbcAe0
You do need to remember that modern O ring (and X ring) chains really don’t need any lubrications per se; the lubricant doing the main job is sealed on the inside of the O ring.
All you are doing on the outside is cleaning dirt and grit off and then putting a protective layer on the metal to stop it going rusty.
Edit : beaten to it by Gyp!
Anyone looking for bike kit ie clothing.
I’ve a bundle that’s of various sizes as I’ve ahem grown in size!!!!
Too much to list but it ranges from jackets and trousers, leather and textile.
PM if you have any interest. Reasonable offers will be accepted ideally without post and pack. I’m central belt Scotland.
Jim
For starters I’ve got:
pair of triumph sympatex trousers at 36-38 waist
RST textile jacket full armour etc plain black - concealer hood 48-50 chest
2 pairs Leather trousers of traditional sort 32 and 38 waist
Leather jacket of Lewis or Scott make - never worn 46-48 chest
PM me email address and I’ll send pics.
Jim
Last edited by Jimmcb; 9th July 2020 at 17:54.
this is what i use
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BananaSlip-...4310611&sr=8-6
after 30+years of riding motorcycles ive done the whole gear oil thing and everything else in between , the above costs a tenner - put your bike on a stand spin the wheel and spray (for cleaning i use paraffin or diesel )
Thanks for looking after this before you sell it to me isn’t it???????????CCM owner here, and everything that's been said is pretty much spot on. It's a robust bike (although some have had cosmetic rust issues with the frame, which are all being sorted by CCM - their after sales service is exemplary, btw).
It's definitely not an only bike. That said, it is *my* only bike these days, but that's because the only biking I do is sunny day jaunts of ~50 miles or less. I definitely wouldn't want to do more than 1oo miles in a single trip. Not without some Preparation H anyway!
It's not a bike to be used in the rain. I've removed my mudguard for reasons of tartish vanity, but even with them on the effects of riding thru the smallest puddle are Dexter-like in their spatter patterns.
All of which said, it's possibly/probably my favourite bike I've ever had, just makes me smile looking at it in the garage, never mind out on the road.
Edit: never one to miss a chance for a gratuitous glamour s
RIAC
I also used dry lube (Wurth) when I had a chain!
Great stuff.
:D
In all honesty, there's always a few for sale, they're not really that hard to get hold of if you're keen ;)
Yay I was first for once!You do need to remember that modern O ring (and X ring) chains really don’t need any lubrications per se; the lubricant doing the main job is sealed on the inside of the O ring.
All you are doing on the outside is cleaning dirt and grit off and then putting a protective layer on the metal to stop it going rusty.
Edit : beaten to it by Gyp!
Ryan/Fortnine does demonstrate (kind of) that the lubricants can penetrate the links, however that only once the chains have been completely soaked in petrol which likely ruins the seals. There's another video he's done on cleaners that shows that some of them do too.
If I wasn't a long term Scottoiler fan (as I'm lazy) I'd be going down the clean then gear oil route, but if the chain's already smothered in chain wax, I'd leave it like that until it's time to ride
Twins
RIAC
You might want to mention what size it is/you used to be? ;D
Good shout. Doh!!! Post amended
Jim
its the best,clean with paraffin I use a 3 sided brush from ebay and a long handled paint brush..
I put down a drip tray and absorbent blanket from Halfords to catch spills
I only use wurth dry lube it makes less mess than any other wax or oil.
My last tyres lasted 5,000 miles,as usual I had no need to adjust the chain in-between,I also only use the top end DID chain and sprockets.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bike-Chai...kAAOSwIThe~-SW
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Did someone say Harleys are slow?
Thanks for the pointers on the chain oil/lube, I'll have a look and get something to I can keep on top of the dirt they seem to attract...
Borrowed for a HD forum , brilliant
My Sportster - in the days before HD and image stabilisation...
It's best to look at where the numbers are on the dial before it all goes blurry
Well after a few recent threads got me doing my direct access, I decided to buy this today ready for when I pass my test...
Triumph Street Triple R...
Better bloody knuckle down and get it passed now...
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Excellent choice! That should keep you entertained for a few years!
Bonnie bike Marty. Keep it upright between the hedges.Well after a few recent threads got me doing my direct access, I decided to buy this today ready for when I pass my test...
Triumph Street Triple R...
Better bloody knuckle down and get it passed now...
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Jim
Thanks for the advice, I should be 'working from home' tomorrow so will give it a check. If it does need adjusting I'll find a DID chain.
Fish
Mine came pretty quickly but maybe red isn't that popular, I do think the grey is probably what most people want.
I did get a small discount but it was pretty clear there wasn't much point in pushing it any further. A bit more off the extras. But TBH (for reasons I won't go into here) I wanted it to be an easy pleasant experience, which it was, and I'm very happy with the result - albeit not the recent weather! I know, I'm a fair weather biker, but to be fair I've done my time riding in all weathers...bearing in mind in my younger days I didn't own a car...
Excellent choice Marty. The perfect blend of comfort, handling, power and economy all in one. That will give you the grin factor everytime you flirt out on it. I had one of them a few years back in Red and always regretted selling it, so much so I now have the 765RS version and love it to bits. Ride safe.Well after a few recent threads got me doing my direct access, I decided to buy this today ready for when I pass my test...
Triumph Street Triple R...
Better bloody knuckle down and get it passed now...
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Stuart
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Last edited by cinnabull; 10th July 2020 at 10:36.
That’s good to hear a fellow recommendation, I was more surprised by the insurance, considering I haven’t passed my test yet I got my first years insurance fully completed for £266, some companies were wanting £1500!!!
Im really looking forward to getting out on it (when ever I get my test passed) and just heading off to somewhere like the Lakes for a cuppa then a steady drive back with a couple of mates...
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make sure you have read your insurance correctly , MCN (prob one of the cheapest around) is known for having a 1k excess on claims as an automatic unless you change it (this what what makes them so cheap) - other companys may have followed suit .
I did and I’m happy with the excess, if it is something I damage then I will change it myself tbh rather than claim, obviously if the bike goes then that’s a different story but I’m putting loads of security in place to hopefully prevent that but if they want it that bad I know it’ll go eventually (I’m a realist) lol...
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In which case it's worth being aware of the cost of replacement parts... On my Street Scrambler the plastic headlamp unit (without trim and back etc) is £450, a painted tank (without fuel pump, level sender, cap etc) is £1400...
Oh I know mate, more emphasis on me not damaging it hopefully.
I’ll do my best lol...
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All insurances are too expensive. Until you need them to step in.
You will drop your bike. Usually at a stand still. If you hit another car on the way down, your £1000 is gone.
If you were moving (hopefully not too fast), chances are the helmet is a goer too, on top of the damage on the bike.
Doing what you do and aim at the cheapest premium is fine when you start with an older bike. It is a risk I would not take on a new bike, and I have a reasonable riding experience (30 years, plus a 10 years hiatus). Making that choice when you don't have your licence yet is... brave.
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
I take the view that any claim of less that £2k is not worth putting through insurance given the inevitable punitive clawbacks later.
Same here, as long as there is no third party involved in which case I would notify my insurer, even if I don't make a claim myself (although the insurer will still almost certainly screw you for it at renewal).
my advice would be to get some R+G frame protection as your first purchase for the bike (you can see them under the 'speed' sticker on my bike on the previous page ) - they saved my paintwork last year in a comical incident where a clothes line full of washing got blown into me as i was taking the bike to the shed at the bottom of the garden and the bike ended up on top of me in a tangled mess of jeans tshirts and cussing biker :)
Sorry but I did laugh at that reason of the damage occurring, thanks for the advice I'll look into it mate...
I always thought R&G kit was expensive until I dropped my Hayabusa on the drive.
For what the kit is, it's expensive.
For what it does and the expense it can reduce, it's cheap
Frame and fork protection is always a good idea. Evotech do some really good stuff as well as R&G.
Am thinking of tidying up the Tiger ('11 800).
Quickest and possibly cheapest way to my mind is to clean the back end of the oil and muck from oiling the chain and go dry lube (Profi Dry Lube). Currently using a Cobrra Nemo 2, which I got 2nd hand & it must be said does what it says on the tin. But like all chain oilers it does get messy over time. Fan-boys of whatever need not reply
Either that or weekly clean the bike - shudder.
or Evotech or LighTech - I find their price / quality ratio just a touch better personally.
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
The lakes is a lovely place to go, but tbh I prefer North Wales on my bike. The roads are better, (read bigger wider and smoother), scenery is just as nice and generally its not as crowded. Some good biker meeting places as well.
Tell you what Marty, if you're riding with mates an intercom set up is a game changer. I rode for decades without one, but once me and my ride buddies got them we would never be without. Total game changer, well, for us anyways. Its great to have a bit of banter on a ride, you can warn each other of hazards, talk about any shit you want, get sat nav into your headset from your phone or actual satnav, take calls, listen to music, etc, they are really good.
Also dont forget some good quality, right fitting, riding kit. Doesnt have to be top of the range expensive stuff either to do its job. If possible try the stuff on actually sat on a bike, preferably yours. Reason I suggest this, some stuff feels fine stood up in the shop, but sat on your bike it may be different. Trousers may twist, especially if armoured, jackets can ride up at the back when seated, or the arms or shoulders/back may feel tight when outstretched. Never assume they will be the same sat on a bike as stood up in a shop. Get good well known makes, and think about leather or textile, or perhaps both. They each have their pros and cons. Consider if you will be a fair or all weather rider when purchasing. Helmets, get the best you can afford, again get a good well known make but most importantly try a good selection on. Different makes, even the same size will deffo feel and fit differently. Its ok if they feel a bit tight around your cheeks as that will give a tad when worn, what you dont want is too tight on your forehead, as you will end up with a headache very quickly once riding like that. Also buy from a reputable dealer, there are reported to be fake Shoei stuff being banded around. Oh and dont forget ear plugs. They are a must, I have permanent tinnitus now probably due to riding for years without them. There wasnt much info about years back when I started, but I wish there was, this whistling is bloody awful !!
Stuart
Thanks Stuart, appreciate all the advice, I’ve got the helmet, gloves, boots and jacket already (due to covid you can no longer borrow the training Centers gear) so got all that stuff now but no doubt I’ll be getting more.
The ear comm thing sounds like a game changer and it’s deffo something I’ll get down the line when it comes to it.
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