Reply With QuoteI didn’t know you could shift clutchless without a quick shifter / auto blipper, so will have to look into that technique. Am I right in assuming that there is a risk of damaging the gearbox if you got it wrong ?Originally Posted by Gyp
I've got quite small hands so bought the Triumph adjustable levers for my Street Scrambler. I subsequently discovered that their nearest position was pretty much identical to the stock position which meant the only benefit was they looked prettier.
An alternative solution/mitigation is to tweak your riding style to use the clutch less - it shouldn't be necessary changing up through the box (except maybe 1-2 to make sure you avoid neutral), and on the way down you can slow and then change several gears with one pull of the clutch (or again go clutchless but needs a little more practice)
I didn’t know you could shift clutchless without a quick shifter / auto blipper, so will have to look into that technique. Am I right in assuming that there is a risk of damaging the gearbox if you got it wrong ?
Sometimes it just takes a bit of getting used to
It might be the angle of the photo, but in the last image it looks like your clutch lever is pointing down quite a bit. Its a 30 second job with a 10 mm spanner to loosen the lever clamp and lift it a bit to see if that reduces your reach.
Well spotted, I’ll have a look at that before I go spending money on levers. Thanks.
If you do lift the lever, when it’s pulled in make sure it misses the high beam switch on the back of the switch gear… otherwise you’ll be flashing high beam on every gear change🤪😎
In essence you replicate the function of the quick-shifter with your right wrist.
Going up through the box under acceleration, the slightest twitch of deceleration whilst applying pressure and as if by magic you're in the next gear.
Going down is a little harder, but the "trick" is for the gearbox to not be under load. You can't change down like on a bike with autoblipper, but again taking a bike from closed throttle to a more neutral throttle at low revs and it'll change fairly easily.
I'd definitely concentrate on mastering it on the way up on a positive throttle before worrying about it on the way down though. Considering that all you are doing is exactly what a quickshifter is doing there's no real risk
Not at all.
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
I’d argue it’s good practice to blip on the way down the box anyway, clutch or not. A lot of people don’t bother to learn that skill and they should because it’s one lock up ABS can’t save you from.
Last edited by Groundrush; 4th October 2022 at 06:44.
When I was riding in my younger years (say, 17-25) rev matching was the norm. I was really surprised when I was told it was unnecessary (or rather, I could do it if I wanted to, but releasing the clutch in a controlled manner would suffice) during my DAS training. I'd have thought it was something that should form part of the training for everyone, simply because it is good practice, as you say.
I blipped my way through the training and the tests, anyway.
I think the introduction of slipper clutches has “ de skilled” that part of riding Tony. If you talk to an owner of an early Guzzi or BMW’ shafties from the 70/80’s if they didnt rev match on downshifts they would be a heap in the road.
I don’t know whether slipper clutches are to blame or if they’re just a technological solution to cover up poor technique but DAS instructors telling people you don’t need to do it won’t help. You can still lock up even with a slipper clutch though. They can reduce abrupt engine braking on the downshift but they can’t eliminate it.
In previous decades, the bikes in general did not have the high compression ratios in existence now, and the very large pots on a twin-cylinder bike. We are now in the region of 650cc/cyl.
I think the instantaneous engine braking of a clumsy downshift in the wet - does create a hazard, and if you can obviate that, it has to be a good thing.
My S1000XR (4 cyl) has a slipper clutch - my HP2s (2 cyl) doesn't - I wish it was the reverse, as the HP2s is the one that really needs it.
Tuition should still emphasise the importance of rev matching on gearshifts though, but even if they don't - I think any rider soon discovers for himself, that jarring downshifts are not comfortable or desirable - and they work to improve their technique pretty quickly.
That stems from the suspension being neutral when entering a corner and forward planning. If there’s a need mid corner your in the shit anyway so do anything to alleviate it.
Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app
I've seen me just starting a squeeze on the front brake approaching a bend, where I am a bit unsure about the extent of the bend - I do it at a time that if I need more brakes - I have time before starting entry, and also so that the front tyre has already started to react and I'm not suddenly going for a 'reactionary grab' - just (hopefully) an increased squeeze.
I would normally suggest Oberon, but as it is a cable clutch I think you will need to go TWM and replace the perch/switch etc.
If it is that the clutch is really hard to operate (as it is cable not hydraulic) then you can try taking out a couple of the clutch springs then test it for slip, but provided it doesn't slip then that will make it easier to use around town.
You might find there is a pin and a hole in the handlebars to dictate the position of the lever. If that is the case the pin is usually easily removed or worst-case ground off.
I’d just buy a pair of these off eBay. I’ve got them on all my bikes and never had an issue.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403827319...mis&media=COPY
If you think you may drop it then some of these may be more to your liking.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174307815...mis&media=COPY
Clucking bell!
Just taken a flight… over the bonnet of a car which pulled out of a side road without looking properly.
Bike unrideable and currently waiting for the breakdown service.
Be extra vigilant guys.
Thanks Dave, I will take a look.
My head is spinning with all the bits I really really need to buy for my bike straight away!!!
Crash bungs
Levers
Paddock stand
Bobbins
Phone mount
Cover
Tail tidy
Mudguard extender
Quick shifter
Hope you are okay mate?
Presume you are alright if you're on here! Make sure you get checked over if any pain once the adrenalin wears off.
There is always pain, if only from the massive muscle contraction as you brace for the impact.
Always start from the point you are NOT all right until you are sure you are, a few days later.
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
Bruised but ok, thanks guys. In a 70kmh zone, and I think I was lucky all things considered.
Gutted about the bike though. Weather is glorious and I had a two-day trip planned tomorrow through the Alps. Instead I think it’ll be ice packs and gentle movement.
Sorry to hear that but glad you’re ok!
That’s need in the same way you need a new watch!Thanks Dave, I will take a look.
My head is spinning with all the bits I really really need to buy for my bike straight away!!!
Crash bungs
Levers
Paddock stand
Bobbins
Phone mount
Cover
Tail tidy
Mudguard extender
Quick shifter
Main thing is that you're well enough to be telling us about it, but a salutary warning for all of us (once again). Good luck with the bike repairs/insurance claim, and really sorry your trip has been ruined. Thank goodness you're in one piece, though.
Bad luck, but the important thing is you are ok.
I don't know if it's the time of year, lack of care, lack of training, low sun, age or all but at the weekend I had four drivers (all female) pull out in front of me when the road behind was clear - they obviously either didn't see me at all or completely misjudged my proximity; fortunately, I wasn't caning it and had time to go around them.
Definitely need to take care and be ever aware...
You could save yourself a few quid and not bother with the quick shifter - perfecting the art of using the clutch is not a bad thing.Thanks Dave, I will take a look.
My head is spinning with all the bits I really really need to buy for my bike straight away!!!
I think it was meant as a wish list rather than essentials.
I think it’s the proverbial problem of not seeing a bike.
Frame protectors/mushrooms. What a difference they make to damage limitation.
Sod the bike, just be extremely grateful. After what I’ve seen recently, you can still ride. As SJ mentioned, be sure to get fully checked out. Adrenaline can mask a lot at the time.
Glad you're OK OldHooky
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
Drivers these days seem to just look in their peripheral vision and if nothing of car-size (or bigger) registers - the road is clear.
I think they have developed this trait from having their primary vision get used to looking at sat-navs and phones while driving.
Glad to hear you walked away.
As the owner of 2 80's BNW shafties (R80RT mono and R65 twin shock), I can happily report that this isn't always the case, but part of that is because my clutchless downchanges are always at low revs.
That said, my R80ST used to lift the rear wheel off the deck when I simply throttled back, never mind when not rev matching!
Interesting to see Apple’s data and how disturbed last night’s sleep was. To be expected.
Today I’ve got the customary muscle seizures over a lot of the body. I had thought about wearing normal jeans as the journey was very short. The biking jeans and armour have, I think, saved me from some complicated fractures. It’s a salient lesson in there being no substitute for proper riding gear. The same with a full face helmet. That saved my ugly mug.
Now the wait for the insurance companies to make things happen, and hopefully no issues with getting the parts from MV. Hopefully they’ll approve a rental as it’s my only transport.
Safe riding guys.
I've trimmed down my summer gear to proper bike jeans with Kevlar linings, together with armoured knee stockings - put on before the jeans. I still feel a bit exposed having no hip armour in them.
You don't say where in Europe you are (could be Ireland) - but certainly France insists on gloves being CE labelled (although I'm not sure if wearing gloves is a legality). Similarly - People may find that there is a travel insurance requirement that bike clothing although not required to meet a particular standard - must be made for motorcycling.
As you get older - you don't bounce so well either.
Gets worse.
Local MV garage called. It’s a write-off. Only had it a month.
F**k!
Sorry to hear. But it’s replaceable. No part of your body really is.
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
That can actually be the best outcome.
Not surprising given the cost of MV parts. But as mentioned above, it’s probably the best outcome.
Been without internet for a few days, so left behind on the gossip front... glad you are OK, but a shame about the bike. I hope your insurers are on your case and you get a full payout, not a huge drop in value from new to used....
On a more general front, is anyone going or doing the Edinburgh Trial this coming weekend? I shall be marshalling at Clough Wood, or Clough Mine, not sure which until the actual day.
Is it too late to cancel your exhaust order?
Steve
Fortunately the garage was on the ball, and cancelled it after we spoke.
Blimey.
Glad you are ok , reads as if could have been a nasty one .
Stay safe.
Result :) As others have said please get well and start the internet trawling for your new steed :)
Oh dear… Chrissy Rouse has succumbed to his injuries from last weeks BSB round at Donington Park..
I met and spoke with him a few times at Cartagena, and he was such a nice lad..
I’m gutted to hear such news.
So very sad, RIP Chrissy
Bad luck, must be gutted about that especially as you`ve not had it long..
Question: now that you`ve sampled the bike for a while if the insurance company play fair will you replace it with the same?
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