Dunno what happened there but hey ho
Stuart
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Haha, I think I was trying to edit my first post but ended up quoting myself to myself, doh !! Anyway, I think you are doing the sensible thing Tony by holding back. Just get some more miles on the seat and see whats what then. The Beemer is not a back road scratcher, which is where your Street excelled, perhaps more of a modern café styled retro?. Quick enough when it needs to be, but let the real fast stuff go by or it could all end in tears !!.
You know what, hows about a s/h 675 Street R as a second bike, they are a lovely bike, I know, I had one. And for not a real load more than a Nitron and Andreani kit fitted, worth a thought, best of both worlds then....
Stuart
+1
Most folk don't realise just how quick modern bikes actually are. They are lethal quick, and soooo easy to ride fast. However, I would say that 95% of the folk on the fast stuff never ever get anywhere near the bikes limit. Just look around at any bike meet, all the Full Leather clad crotch rocket pilots, then look at their knee sliders.... pristine and unmarked. Take a sneaky peep at their tyres as well. Tells you all you need to know. I certainly know I wont find the limits of my Street RS, and don't get me started on the S1000RR, that was way overkill in every department for the road. But I had to try one though !! That try lasted just 8 months.
Stuart
Rode mine flat out today, pinned the throttle on at least 3 occasions, it was hedge to hedge riding. The upside down forks are brilliant and the back end never stepped out.
Did I mention I was on the Monkey? 125 cc of pure power 10 hp I cant even find the torque value!
You're always going to be stepping sideways from a street triple Tony unless you're going for a dedicated bike. Supersport/Tourer etc.
Spoilt early on but the R9T is a lovely thing.
Ray
I think the point I'm making is twofold. Firstly, vastly more experienced riders than I all concur that the rear shock can be very twitchy on corners and that the front forks dive too much under braking. The R9T forum is testament to this and there really us complete uniformity of opinion. Secondly, I've certainly found this in the first 500 or so miles that I've put on the bike and don't particularly like it; indeed, even today I went out for a fairly spirited ride and was very much aware of both issues (particularly the rear shock). The fact that I consistently cornered at speed very smoothly on the Triple suggests that I might just need to adapt my riding style, but that would be an adaptation to suit the constraints of the 9T's suspension.
I don't deny that I'm relatively inexperienced in terms of my return to biking (I'm pushing about 5000 miles already, though) but I think this is more to do with the characteristics of the bike. Anyway, interesting discussion.
Yes, agreed on both counts.
As groundrush mentioned, tyre choice is also important.
I had a 98 ZX9R from new which came on Bridgestone BT56s and handled well. I replaced them with the same and it was aweful. So much so that I was going to sell it once I returned from a trip round France (I didn’t want to go on my 916!). Before the trip I put new Bridgestone BT010s on it and they completely transformed the bike. I eventually sold the Ducati as I was having so much fun on the Kwak that it never hit a look in.
This could be caused by many things. It could be over sprung (a lot of bikes are so you can ride with a pillion passenger and luggage), it could be over damped not allowing the suspension to keep the wheel in contact with the ground over bumps, it could be under damped thereby not controlling oscillations over bumps, in both cases you have high speed and low speed compression and rebound damping to think about. It's probably over sprung and over damped but without trying it, it's impossible to know for sure. That would make it feel harsh and twitchy on bumpy roads but better on smooth undulating roads. Under damped feels more like it's trying to buck you out of your seat on harsh bumps and wallowy and vague on undulating roads. Differing requirements for high and low speed damping means it could be a mixture of under and over damped at the same time, just to add to the confusion.
This is most likely under sprung. You can get a similar feeling from lack of compression damping but that can also lead to other symptoms like feeling the front wheel patter or hop over bumps and even sudden sphincter twitching under-steer if it's bad enough. Stiffening up the front end springs should help with dive issues but will come at the expense of comfort and to some extent grip unless you can tame that somewhere else (as a general rule, softer gives you more grip but less stability, which is easily confused with having less grip weirdly enough) and shouldn't really be done without tweaking the damping to match.
Of course this is a BMW which, even though they've done wonders taming the torque steer issues they used to get with the old shaft drive set up, they can't really solve the engine torque issues you get with inline engines, even with balance shafts. In-lines will always be slightly more "odd" handling than transverse although many people get used to that and don't even notice after a while.
Suspension tuning is a very complicated and fascinating thing fraught with many dead ends and blind alleys, especially on road bikes. Track bikes are way easier because the tyres always tell you what's going on. Road tyres don't wear fast enough to give you any information.
Metzeller M7RR are my tyre of choice for a road bike at the moment, Pirelli Supercorsa SC2s on track. I won't even give Michelin shed space.
I suppose I ‘ll show my age if I mention Dunlop K70
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
im using pilot road 4's on mine- no complaints
suspension aside you buy the bike for what you want it for , a cafe racer or bobber is not going to handle like a sports bike - the same a pure sports bike is going to be a lot more uncomfortable than a tourer etc etc .
if you want something that goes round corners half decent , moves like shit off a shovel and is comfortable get either a zxr1400 or a hayabusa .
Last edited by pugster; 28th June 2019 at 21:37.
I've used Metzeler Racetecs for years. Cant fault them.super grip and great feedback. Confidence inspiring. Best to find a tyre that suits you and your riding style and your bike. Given that you keep buying new bikes you'll probably be trying lots of different tyres anyway.
Ray
I’m actually happy, over time, to get the best possible performance from my 9T. That will probably involve a suspension upgrade at some point, but I don’t regard that as unusual as a lot of owners do it. Similar to the Triumph modern classics, which also have pretty duff rear shocks out of the factory.
^^^ It's a shame that those cylinder heads prevent being able to get a decent lean angle on ;-)
Tony looks a little taller since I last saw him...I can see why he needs to upgrade his suspension
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Ha! What about Avon SM Mk2 and Speedmaster fronts. Did a fair few skiddy miles on those and lived to tell the tale. Then Dunlop TT100s came out and were the dogs. Worked for Dunlop at the time and bought the softer compound ones. Were a good tyre in the day.
Halogen days. (sic)
Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
I’ve gone back to BT03s for obvious reasons
ME33/ME99?
I had a soft spot for the Continental TKV11/TKV12 tyres which were, I was advised at the time, developed as a sticky road-legal tyre for Yamaha LC production racing.
They were also, for some reason, fitted to my R80RT mono from new. Whilst not the obvious choice for a lardy 50bhp tourer, they did allow me to take liberties in the corners and keep up with my mates on their sports bikes.
The down side was that I was lucky if I got 2,000 miles from a rear, though I got roughly twice that from the front. When I was commuting it, I'd be putting on new tyres every 2 months.
Whilst the TKVs live on as a "Specially developed tire for sport classics", they are no longer made in the size I need.
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And front fork springs too, IMO. They are linear springs and by replacing them with progressive springs (as I've just done) there's a significant improvement.
Whilst Triumphs rear shocks were improved in the new 2016 range they still retain the set length/limited range damping limitations, so after-market shocks can offer greater improvement: adjustable length, triple rate progressive springs, greater length adjustment on pre-load, click-adjustable rebound damping, etc,. I've replaced the rears on my Bonnie T120 with TEC shocks and the difference is noticeable.
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
It also shines a light on Triumph's expensive spares prices.
A pair of the stock shocks for my street scrambler are £750. The high quality uprated Fox accessory shocks that Triumph sell are £680.
If the high quality kit is cheaper, surely it would be cost effective to fit that as standard? Perhaps that's why the 1200 comes with Ohlins...
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Given that the summer is here, and that it's a nice option to wear normal jackets when out and about, I just thought I'd mention that the amazing Action Shirt II from Knox is on sale at Sportsbikeshop for £110 (instead of £130). Although it's designed to be used as an underlayer with non-armoured clothing on top it also serves well as a top layer over a T-shirt as it has quality armour in the back, shoulders and elbows. (Duncan, I know you ride with a regular jacket sometimes so you may want to have a look at this.)
Then only thing to bear in mind is that it's not abrasion-resistant, just armoured... so up to the individual in terms of risk profile. Oh, and perhaps go up a size because they're made very snug in order to keep the armour in the right place.
Because cost price of the stock is something entirely different!
I ended up listing the unused (zero miles) shocks from my Street Twin on eBay recently having not managed to sell them on a multitude of motorbike forums. I got £50 for them, so after shipping costs it was barely worth the effort.
Thanks for the link Tony!
So long as I'm not riding too far it's T-shirt and hoodie weather for me at the moment, no abrasion resistance obviously, and no armour either. Along with my open face Bell, summer gloves, Levis and Chucks it's the only way I can feel comfortable in this heat.
The summer months are always a dilemma between comfort and safety but as I ride a pushbike at speeds upto 50mph in just Lycra and a egg box helmet Im happy being comfortable in t shirt for lazy (read sub 50mph) rides out. And before I get the H&S brigade lecturing me on gravel rash and slide times I am fully aware and calculate the risk/reward accordingly
RIAC
Oh I know.
I've got a similar set of HD shocks here after I fitted Progressives. Seems a shame to take them to the tip but I know ebaying and posting will return virtually nothing.
I got £50 for a set of as new barrels, pistons and heads when I did my 883 to 1200 conversion. Still, it made room in the garage.
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I went out for a observed ride this morning as part of my IAM journey. Was feeling rather warm and then realised when I got back that I hadn't removed the winter lining from my jacket. Dickhead.....
45 years of riding motorbikes almost every single day thought the year, and 30 years of having a motorcycle business and i still find it hilarious just how "nerdy" motorcyclists can be.
I think a few people on here need to test out the Rukka Forsair jacket with a gym top underneath. It's glorious. I just need to put a tiny screen on the GSA for summer and I'm done.
I rarely wear the full trousers but always wear mesh gloves and jacket. Have some decent summer Daytona boots but sometimes wear Red Wings or Timberlands etc.
Lovely ride through Hampshire and Surrey, so hot I had to stop and buy some vented gloves! Need a lower screen on the bike and some armoured jeans.
Just fitted a pair of Roadtec-01 to my S1000XR (well - my local bike shop did) - £180 delivered for the tyres (from Opineo) and £60 inc vat for fitting/balancing. Nice price for great tyres - Now all I need is a holiday to use them on.......
Each to there own,having been trapped under my bike by my foot I always wear bike boots.
Summer wear on my Wales trip
Altberg desert Hoggs made specially for me for my trip to Spain last year.
much cooler in the heat,good to walk around in and full protection.
Alpinestar cuff length summer gloves with knuckle protectors.
Furygan Italian leather jacket,no liner,short gloves means I get a cooling draught through the sleeves.
Shoei NXR with photo chromatic visor,in my view cooler than an open face.
In reserve for a real heatwave Dainese fully vented jacket with a looser fit.
I tried those technical tees they just made me sweat more.
Whilst I follow the logic, I do try to wear Jean's, jacket and gloves almost all the time although of course I would be lying if I said I didn't occasionally sneak out in less. I feel I can judge the risks like you say - what does worry me is losing my footing or something and ending up with 200kg of bike on me.