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Thread: More bike related stuff

  1. #1701
    Master dickbrowne's Avatar
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    More bike related stuff

    So, just off to the Manchester Motorbike show. Anyone else going?

    Oh, I can pick you up a disk lock leash if you want, Tony ;)

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    Last edited by dickbrowne; 23rd March 2019 at 09:34.

  2. #1702
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Oh, I certainly fell, Dave. Luckily the bike just sustained a slight graze to the bottom of the engine casing (for the most part it landed on me, not the road). Nothing serious, and only £86 for a replacement casing when it nest goes in for a service.
    It’s always best to fall under the bike Tony!

    I’m glad there’s no real damage; you may be able to get the damaged casing refurbished and keep it as a spare in case you drop it again.

  3. #1703
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickbrowne View Post
    So, just off to the Manchester Motorbike show. Anyone else going?

    Oh, I can pick you up a disk lock leash if you want, Tony ;)

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    Hah - already ordered!

  4. #1704
    I did this about 20 years ago with a front disk lock... and my now wife on the back! We both fell off, I threw myself under the bike so no real damage apart from pride as a few mates were watching. Luckily I asked if she was ok before checking the bike, or I might not be married now

  5. #1705
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt8500 View Post
    I did this about 20 years ago with a front disk lock... and my now wife on the back! We both fell off, I threw myself under the bike so no real damage apart from pride as a few mates were watching. Luckily I asked if she was ok before checking the bike, or I might not be married now
    Quick thinking there , Matt. Good work

  6. #1706
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    Sorry to hear about your mishap Tony - well done for getting it sorted so quickly. I hope you and all the other riders have a brilliant time today.

    My experience of disc brake locks wasn't as bad. I've ridden bikes for approximately 22 years in total and briefly used a lock. I too started to ride off once and remembered just in time. No damage done but I decided to ditch the thing and deal with a theft if it happened - it never did. Maybe I was just fortunate, but in the end, using anything more than the steering lick was a hassle too far. And if you have a really desirable bike and a professional wants it, it will disappear.

    Safe trip today everyone

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  7. #1707
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonRA View Post
    Sorry to hear about your mishap Tony - well done for getting it sorted so quickly. I hope you and all the other riders have a brilliant time today.

    My experience of disc brake locks wasn't as bad. I've ridden bikes for approximately 22 years in total and briefly used a lock. I too started to ride off once and remembered just in time. No damage done but I decided to ditch the thing and deal with a theft if it happened - it never did. Maybe I was just fortunate, but in the end, using anything more than the steering lick was a hassle too far. And if you have a really desirable bike and a professional wants it, it will disappear.

    Safe trip today everyone

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    Thanks Jon (it's tomorrow, btw). The issue with additional locks is that it can often be an insurance requirement (e.g. two locks including the steering lock). It will also help to reduce premiums if you state that you're using an approved lock (as it did mine, so I'd rather not take the risk of not using it).

  8. #1708
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    Ahhh - didn't know about such insurance demands. I certainly wouldn't want to lose a bike and find it uninsured.

    Have a great day tomorrow

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  9. #1709
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Quick thinking there , Matt. Good work
    I love the man maths logic of getting the new pipe Tony, awesome work


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  10. #1710
    very lucky you didnt damage the bike more (or yourself) , never used a disclock for that exact reason (im bound to forget the bugger ) , the way i look at it these days is if they are going to nick it it doesnt matter much whats on it (round here they tend to just pick the bikes up and load them in a van.
    ..... on a side note i put my baffle in for the first time the other day - got back home and took it out again , just didnt sound right , also fitted some shorty levers which work great as i only use one finger to brake and the original ones had a tendency to trap my fingers under hard braking .

    have a safe good day tomorrow everyone on the meet.

  11. #1711
    Exhaust looks great! Ive been out on both the Honda and the BMW today, god I love riding bikes

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  12. #1712
    Craftsman cinnabull's Avatar
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    Least you got yourself and bike sorted Tony, with minimal material or bodily damage. And a new can to boot!! Everyone out on the bike gtg tomoz have a good day and ride safe. Me, well I am out with my main ride buddy on his S1000RR to Barmouth in north wales if the weather holds. Oh, and when you’re sick of that Yoshi let me know and I’ll have it off ya!!

    Stuart


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  13. #1713
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Thanks Jon (it's tomorrow, btw). The issue with additional locks is that it can often be an insurance requirement (e.g. two locks including the steering lock). It will also help to reduce premiums if you state that you're using an approved lock (as it did mine, so I'd rather not take the risk of not using it).
    I always state “no extra security” when asked, because reading the small print it means that if your bike is stolen and you didn’t have the security fitted you may well not be covered.

    It made about a tenner difference but I’ve got 2 bikes coming up for renewal now so I’ll see what the difference is this year.

    Also to watch out for - last year my policy on one of these bikes had full cover in Europe, this renewal is legal minimum in the covered European countries with top up to fully comp at a cost


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  14. #1714

    More bike related stuff

    On Thursday I went for a test ride on this mechanical marvel (2019 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT).
    It's not to everyone's taste visually but it is an immensely capable bike.
    On Monday week I'm testing the new Diavel 1260s
    Last edited by Stanford; 24th March 2019 at 18:36.

  15. #1715
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Want to hear the exhaust?

  16. #1716
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post

    Too much rust on that chain T. The rollers look as dry as a nuns crack.

    Take better care of the new one.
    Andy

    Wanted - Damasko DC57

  17. #1717
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy tims View Post
    Too much rust on that chain T. Take better care of the new one.
    It’s been a nightmare, Andy - however often I cleaned it, and no matter how much lube I put on it, I had surface rust after a week or so. Even the guys at Herts Triumph didn’t know why it was happening.

  18. #1718
    I recommend a chain oiler Tony, takes all the hassle out of it!

  19. #1719
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt8500 View Post
    I recommend a chain oiler Tony, takes all the hassle out of it!
    Yeah, I think I’m going to have to.

  20. #1720
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt8500 View Post
    I recommend a chain oiler Tony, takes all the hassle out of it!

    The 30 second hassle of spraying some lube on and wiping with a cloth! Ive always found chain oilers make for a messy bike personally
    RIAC

  21. #1721
    Master blackal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    The 30 second hassle of spraying some lube on and wiping with a cloth! Ive always found chain oilers make for a messy bike personally

    If they are properly adjusted, they should make minimal mess, but the real benefit is...... hardly ever having to adjust the chain - so much less wear, in my experience.

    Less gunge around the primary sprocket too.

  22. #1722
    Grand Master Dave+63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    The 30 second hassle of spraying some lube on and wiping with a cloth! Ive always found chain oilers make for a messy bike personally
    Quote Originally Posted by blackal View Post
    If they are properly adjusted, they should make minimal mess, but the real benefit is...... hardly ever having to adjust the chain - so much less wear, in my experience.

    Less gunge around the primary sprocket too.
    I had a Chaintec chain oiler on my ZX9R. It was a simple box the size of a small matchbox with a ball bearing and plastic tube inside. Oil entered the tube from a reservoir above and exited down to the (front in my case) sprocket. The ball moved backwards and forwards under acceleration and braking, pumping the oil through the tube, gravity ensured it went the right way.

    In 15,000 miles I had to adjust the chain once and used about 500ml of oil. The chain always looked dry but as it hardly stretched, it must have been getting enough lubrication but nit enough for dust and dirt to create s grinding paste.

    It cost me £20 for the kit (about a quarter of the price of a scottoiler). I want one for my current bikes but they’ve obviously ceased trading as I can’t find them anywhere!

  23. #1723
    for no mess just use one of the dry chain lubes such as wurths , tbh looking after your bike chain is one of the most basic things you need to learn /do riding a bike , unless of course you have a butler to do it.

    *imo learning basic maintanance is a must for motorbike owners.

    tony as nice and good as they are your mate has the wrong bike if hes not happy with the sound , a flat twin is always going to sound like a kid blowing a raspberry whatever can he puts on:)

  24. #1724
    Master blackal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave+63 View Post
    I had a Chaintec chain oiler on my ZX9R. It was a simple box the size of a small matchbox with a ball bearing and plastic tube inside. Oil entered the tube from a reservoir above and exited down to the (front in my case) sprocket. The ball moved backwards and forwards under acceleration and braking, pumping the oil through the tube, gravity ensured it went the right way.

    In 15,000 miles I had to adjust the chain once and used about 500ml of oil. The chain always looked dry but as it hardly stretched, it must have been getting enough lubrication but nit enough for dust and dirt to create s grinding paste.

    It cost me £20 for the kit (about a quarter of the price of a scottoiler). I want one for my current bikes but they’ve obviously ceased trading as I can’t find them anywhere!

    It’s wear, rather than stretch - but as far as looking after a chain........ Yes - A good oiler is best.

    BUT - whether it makes economic sense, is another matter.

    A DID chain and top-quality sprocket set for my S1000XR, costs only £99 from Busters. So the idea of spending £200 on an electronic Scottoiler might not make sense, when including the oil purchases.

    I got my Scottoiler S/H for around £120, and it meters perfectly, and easily-adjusted.

    For a bike which is solely used for an odd day/half-day at a time - stick with cans of cleaner/lub, but if commuting in all conditions and/or touring - I would always go for a Scottoiler (or similar)

    Cobrra (spelling) do a good, simple oiler.

  25. #1725
    Grand Master Dave+63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackal View Post
    It’s wear, rather than stretch - but as far as looking after a chain........ Yes - A good oiler is best.
    Being a little pedantic there but you are correct, it’s wear in the links rather than stretching of the plates.

    Quote Originally Posted by blackal View Post
    BUT - whether it makes economic sense, is another matter.
    The one I’m referring to cost me £20 and at least doubled the life of the chain.

    Quote Originally Posted by blackal View Post
    Cobrra (spelling) do a good, simple oiler.
    Thanks, I’ll look them up.

  26. #1726

  27. #1727
    Master Tifa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy tims View Post
    Too much rust on that chain T. The rollers look as dry as a nuns crack.

    Take better care of the new one.
    Yep, agree.
    Nowhere near enough lube on that chain.
    A quick spray on a dry chain on all 4 sides (outside/inside/left plates/right plates) is all it takes.

    When chain oilers work properly they can be great.
    A man once told me so.
    But imho they can be an absolute pain in the arse.
    Too little - or too much oil...setting them up, then they get airlocks, start leaking, or the drip nozzle misses the chain.
    Back of the bike can look like an oil dump.
    In years gone by, I've bought five bikes with scottoilers already installed.
    And not one worked as it was supposed to.

    O & X ring chains are supposed to need minimal lubrication, manufacturers say the O rings 'seal' the lube in between the pins and the rollers. Limited effectiveness though. Way better to keep the chain lubed yourself.
    Good quality chain specific lube for the win.
    Chain wax, great for weather proofing, but pretty poor for lubrication.
    Synthetic chain oils are pretty good.

    Dry lube is ok for pushies, (I've did 450 miles on one coating, but I'm fairly sure the chainlife suffered as a result) but pretty poor for a motorcycle.

    TOP TIP:
    If you ever find yourself miles away from home with a dry chain, you will rarely need to buy oil.
    Ride into the next fuel stop, and have a crafty root through the forecourt bins.
    99% of the time, you'll find an empty can/container of car engine oil.
    There is ALWAYS a little left in these to dribble on your chain and get you home.

  28. #1728
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Yeah, I think I’m going to have to.
    Just don’t! Read the above, you are talking 30 seconds of positive action versus £ and issues with chain oilers

    I use this
    https://www.demon-tweeks.com/putolin...ampaign=176013

    Its white you can see where it has gone, it takes 30 secs to apply. My last chain did 15,000 miles on a 70 hp bmw , so not bad.

  29. #1729
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by higham5 View Post
    Just don’t! Read the above, you are talking 30 seconds of positive action versus £ and issues with chain oilers

    I use this
    https://www.demon-tweeks.com/putolin...ampaign=176013

    Its white you can see where it has gone, it takes 30 secs to apply. My last chain did 15,000 miles on a 70 hp bmw , so not bad.
    Okay, I’ll give it a go - I was thinking of trying the WD40’chain wax anyway, as the guys at Triumph recommended it.

  30. #1730
    Master Tifa's Avatar
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    Have you bought a paddock stand yet?
    Well worth the outlay if you haven't.
    Good for all things rear wheel maintenance wise.

  31. #1731
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tifa View Post
    Have you bought a paddock stand yet?
    Well worth the outlay if you haven't.
    Good for all things rear wheel maintenance wise.
    Yes, I’ve got an Abba.

  32. #1732
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    Ive heard good things about the WD40 chain wax , give it a try Tony. How did the ride out go?

    Steve

  33. #1733
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    More bike related stuff

    Quote Originally Posted by higham5 View Post
    Ive heard good things about the WD40 chain wax , give it a try Tony. How did the ride out go?

    Steve
    It was great, thanks. A fair bit quicker than I anticipated and about eight hours on the bike by the time I got home, so it pushed my boundaries out a bit further (which is a good thing). Good turn out, too.

  34. #1734
    Craftsman cinnabull's Avatar
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    More bike related stuff

    I use Wurth dry chain lube as per a previous poster. Never had a rusty chain yet, and cant remember ever replacing one tbh. Also use Wurth cleaner as well. Seems to work well for me. I think the secret is to do it regularly, and if you do ride in the rain which I dont, do it more regularly !!. Use a chain cleaning brush, cheap as chips and work a treat.

    Stuart


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  35. #1735
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinnabull View Post
    I use Wurth dry chain lube as per a previous poster. Never had a rusty chain yet, and cant remember ever replacing one tbh. Also use Wurth cleaner as well. Seems to work well for me. I think the secret is to do it regularly, and if you do ride in the rain which I dont, do it more regularly !!. Use a chain cleaning brush, cheap as chips and work a treat.

    Stuart


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    You’ve just described my chain maintenance routine to the letter, which is why the rust was so puzzling.

  36. #1736
    Craftsman cinnabull's Avatar
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    More bike related stuff

    How often you doing it Tony? Do you ride in the wet?



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  37. #1737
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    Nice one Tony and well done for organising it and getting there despite chain/ lock/ sprocket issues

  38. #1738
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinnabull View Post
    How often you doing it Tony?


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    Generally every 2-3 weeks. Not enough?

  39. #1739
    It was a great day, well done Tony. Happy to organise a future one. My ride into London tomorrow won’t be as fun...

  40. #1740
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    I still like my gsa. 1150 I know it’s old school but when a Ducati rider says “I didn’t think one of them could go so fast” it makes more sense, with the bad roads we have now the paralever suspension makes sense. I keep trying to buy a Kfm 1290 adv r but like a really racy woman there hard work all the time and spectacular occasionally.


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  41. #1741
    Craftsman cinnabull's Avatar
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    Depends on how far you do in 2-3 weeks mate, and riding conditions. I dont ride in the wet, so no salty water gets on my bike, unless i get caught out. I will generally use my bike every weekend through the summer and apply lube before each run, and clean every third or so run. My runs are usually 200-250 miles.

    I put the bike on a rear stand and clean the chain using a brush and cleaner with the bike in gear at tickover so its doing all the work not me!!. Once i’m happy all the grit and grime is off i dry the chain before applying the lube. Hardly ever need to adjust it and like i say, in 40 odd years of biking cant remember ever having to replace a chain set yet. If you havent got a rear stand, just get your missus to spray the chain whilst you push the bike, easy peasy.

    Stuart


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  42. #1742
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinnabull View Post
    Depends on how far you do in 2-3 weeks mate, and riding conditions. I dont ride in the wet, so no salty water gets on my bike, unless i get caught out. I will generally use my bike every weekend through the summer and apply lube before each run, and clean every third or so run. My runs are usually 200-250 miles.

    I put the bike on a rear stand and clean the chain using a brush and cleaner with the bike in gear at tickover so its doing all the work not me!!. Once i’m happy all the grit and grime is off i dry the chain before applying the lube. Hardly ever need to adjust it and like i say, in 40 odd years of biking cant remember ever having to replace a chain set yet. If you havent got a rear stand, just get your missus to spray the chain whilst you push the bike, easy peasy.

    Stuart


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    Thanks Stuart. I do have a stand, but I guess I’m doing more miles between cleans and lubes, and I’ve been using it in the wet. I’ll try a different approach with this new chain, but at least it’s spring now!

  43. #1743
    Craftsman cinnabull's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to do it ‘more’ regularly then !! Deffo if you’ve been out in the wet as daft as it sounds, water seems to ‘dry’ the chain out. Anyways, I’m sure you’ll sort it.

    Stuart


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  44. #1744
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Thanks Stuart. I do have a stand, but I guess I’m doing more miles between cleans and lubes, and I’ve been using it in the wet. I’ll try a different approach with this new chain, but at least it’s spring now!
    I lube mine every few hundred miles with SDOC S100 White Chain Spray which seems to work well and doesn't fling everywhere. It's generally better to lube the chain while it is still warm after a ride.

  45. #1745
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Do you guys top up the lube between cleans, or is it a clean + lube very time?

  46. #1746
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Do you guys top up the lube between cleans, or is it a clean + lube very time?
    I don't properly clean my chain as often as I should, but even if I did it wouldn't be as often as I lube (so yes, top up lube between cleans).

  47. #1747
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Do you guys top up the lube between cleans, or is it a clean + lube very time?
    I only clean mine about every 6 lubes eg twice a year max. O ring X ring chains hold lube against the plates. Main thing is only lube the inside links eg as go onto the sprockets. Dont spray down onto the top of the chain as this just picks up crap or throws off XS lube.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Stanford View Post
    I lube mine every few hundred miles with SDOC S100 White Chain Spray which seems to work well and doesn't fling everywhere. It's generally better to lube the chain while it is still warm after a ride.
    This as the chain is warm so the lube penetrates better

  48. #1748
    Craftsman cinnabull's Avatar
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    Personally as i really only use my bike at weekends i lube before we go out, as i know we’ll be out for 200 ish miles. Every third or fourth weekend i’ll clean, but thats just me. If i do get caught out in the wet i’ll clean then as well.

    Stuart


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  49. #1749
    Master Tifa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cinnabull View Post
    I use Wurth dry chain lube as per a previous poster. Never had a rusty chain yet, and cant remember ever replacing one tbh. Also use Wurth cleaner as well. Seems to work well for me. I think the secret is to do it regularly, and if you do ride in the rain which I dont, do it more regularly !!. Use a chain cleaning brush, cheap as chips and work a treat.
    I liked using Wurth, but after five years I've gone back to a synth lube.
    Same stuff as the original ProfiDry. Teflon base I think? DuPont still holds the patent?
    Wurth -
    Positives: Great for the roller external surface & sprockets, clean to use, no fling, very limited adhesion for dust & grit (that causes the wear) easy to clean chainset with soap and water.
    Negatives: Does not penetrate the chain rollers to lubricate the pins, much lower rust protection, not properly water resistant, bit noisier.

    Quote Originally Posted by cinnabull View Post
    ...and apply lube before each run...
    Better to do it after the run if you can, while the chain is still warm. You'll get better penetration, and it'll allow the solvents time to evaporate, therefore leaving you with a slightly 'thicker' coating before you go out again.
    Last edited by Tifa; 24th March 2019 at 23:19.

  50. #1750
    A bog standard hypoid 80w90 gear oil applied with an old toothbrush is about as good a chain lube as you can get. A lot of manufacturers specify it, Honda, Takasago, Regina etc.

    Also don't lube your chain with the engine running and the bike in gear. Sprockets are unstoppable finger eating machines.

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