Hi all
I am a complete novice when it comes to road bikes, I have not got a clue, but as I am aging I am finding my legs no longer tolerate the impact of running (compartment syndrome/shin splints) and am thinking I now need to get my tarmac miles done via two wheels.
So I am after a novice friendly road bike which will be comfortable, reliable and hopefully pretty fast (I have a neighbour whom I'd like to be able to keep up with, he is more used to cycling but we are otherwise similarly fit and healthy).
Any recommendations on makes, models, gearing, brakes, wheels, tyres, deals packages would be much appreciated.
My old Mountain bike was from Evans and is a Pinnacle. That seems a good spec for the price and I was thinking along similar lines for a road bike with a Pinnacle Laterite 2, more info here: https://www.evanscycles.com/pinnacle...-bike-EV299414
I have resigned that I do not need; nor can I afford, a Carbon frame, then the main difference seems to be gearing. A guy at work recons you must have 105 gears but again that seems to be on £1000 bikes generally. Does that make much difference? For what its worth I live in Chelmsford, Essex which is pretty darn flat other than Danbury Hill, Maldon Hill and Saltcoats Hill at South Woodham.
I think I need a 52cm bike as I'm 5'9" and a little stocky at around 80kg at the moment, but hope to get back to around 74kg for the summer.
I await your recommendations and words of wisdom
Thanking you in advance
Darren
Last edited by yumma; 28th February 2018 at 09:10.
It's worth popping over to Decathalon as their road bikes get pretty good reviews, picking the 520 at random as it's 499.
http://www.cyclingweekly.com/reviews...win-triban-520
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-5..._8377757.html#
5 star group test winner - Cycling Plus (March 2018): "The Triban 520 is the best £500 road bike we've ever ridden"
Last edited by deryckb; 28th February 2018 at 08:56.
Wow, thanks for this. I just looked and they are offering 25% off their 560 CF full carbon bike with Tiagra gearing for a stonking £599. It's only available in 51cm (Small) so I need to try it as I was thinking I may well be 52-53cm for ther brands as I am right on the balance point of a small to medium frame size according to Decathlons size chart. I know with MTB's its quite typical to go down a frame size, does that apply with Road Bikes or will I just feel too squashed up?Originally Posted by deryckb
Go to your LBS and check your fit as that's vital on a road bike and there's a limited range of adjustment if the frame is too big/small.
New 105 is pretty good but to be honest most stuff is nowadays, the more expensive is a little slicker and likely to last longer but weather and mileage are factors along with how often you clean it. 105 on a winter bike not regularly cleaned makes less sense.
Check pricing with your LBS and don't overlook second hand as there are some barely used bargains out there (I bought a last year's model from my LBS at 40% off).
A few thoughts:
1. Fit is important. Some go as far as having a professional fitting but you can get very close by following a few rules.
2. No, you won't 'go down a size' like you did on an MTB.
3. Concentrate on the frameset more than the groupset. Drivetrain will wear out and can be upgraded at that point.
4. Carbon isn't everything, there are some great alu and even steel frames out there.
5. Keep a bit of cash back for a comfortable saddle, pedals and shoes.
6. There are some cracking bargains to be had on eBay.
What other have already said about size, a bargain bike in the wrong size is still the wrong size....
Not all manufactures size up the same to make things more challenging
Certainly best to swing your leg over, however if you're between sizes best to go smaller than larger.
Decathlon's a very good shout.
http://porlm.com/toys/bicycle-fit
Be careful about the typical “roadies” advice. Cheap derailleurs, for example, are like cheap spoons. They work perfectly. Roadies will have you validating their own choices (“at least 105”, “you’ll need special shoes, pedals, clothes...”). Buy like footwear. For fit and for purpose. Your fit, your purpose.
Second hand on eBay is what I would be doing (unless I had the cycle to work scheme option).
Plenty of Ultegra Synapses or CAADs or even Evos in your budget.
I bought a GT Grade (gravel bike) with 105 and hybrid discs for £745 on cyclescheme which means I get the tax off that which is a big saving.
Shameless sales post, can I tempt you with a Giant Propel Advanced 2? Bit more than your budget a deal is there to be had!
Gav.
I have a Planet X RT58 alloy, not sure what they go for now but I paid £600 about 3 years ago for mine and its been a perfect introduction into road biking.
You mention an old mountain bike, I assume this has gone?
I ask as if you’ve any interest in accessing bridle ways or any light off road or even if the local roads are crap have you considered a new fangled `gravel / adventure` bike, basically a cx bike with a touch more clearance and a ability to cover more types of terrain.
If I had to replace my road bike I’d be looking at them, but I dislike road riding these days and would rather hit some bridle ways now.
E.G.
https://www.evanscycles.com/bikes/cy...pinnacle-brand
I still have my MTB, I found I was using it on road more an more, so I fitted some thinner slick tyres better suited to road use. But I find I run out of gearing for the flat roads and am often in the top two gears with nowhere else to go on the slight downhill sections. I'd like to get my MTB back on some off road rubber and start trail riding over at Danbury Common and some bridleways. But I'd like the Road bike as well solely for some faster runs out through the lanes. I may well end up only using one bike, but just like with cars I find I am never entirely happy with a compromised so called do-it-all machine when ultimately you are better off with something designed for its specific purpose, even if it means having two vehicles.
I bought a Cube, full carbon, 30 speed for under £1k
Super super super lightweight, comfy and fast.
Take a look at last year's models as it seems if you want to be trendy, you pay through the nose.
For example
https://www.paulscycles.co.uk/m7b67s...UaApSAEALw_wcB
Save yourself a heap of time, effort and money and get yourself a proper bike fit. The £100-120 will easily pay for itself.
Once you know your reach and stack measurements then take to eBay and cross reference against manufacturers websites for dims.
There are countless city *anker types who got into cycling a couple of years ago now offloading bikes that only have a couple of hundred miles in them.
Be prepared for some pain before the rewards come flooding in. Bon chance.
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EBay is full of decent bikes, sold for peanuts by people who thought getting a bike was a good idea at the time. I've got about 20 bikes in my garage. I never sell them because it's a buyers market for second hand bikes & they're worth more to me in sentimental value than I could ever realise selling on EBay
I’ve yet to see a bike where the terms ‘30 speed’ and ‘super lightweight’ were realistically combined...
Nothing wrong with 10spd rear, I have a very nice dura ace 2x10 set up on my old bike, but triple chainsets are rarely what you need for a lightweight road bike.
No you're better off with a "compact" chainset rather than a triple, although on my road bike I've got a 52/36 with an 11-23 cassette on the back & I regularly outspin top gear
Last edited by trident-7; 28th February 2018 at 22:52.
^^^ this!^^^
May I add one thing - but I am not sure how to write this in English- It's about the castor*) of the front wheel. The geometry of the frame and fork have a lot to do with the castor of the front wheel. When you start cycling, you don't want a bike that's nervous: a twitchy front wheel. Try several bikes -in the correct frame size!! before you buy.
Menno
*) Castor can be the wrong term here, but I am sure that a seasoned bike owner will address this when it's the wrong term.
Thank you all. I went to Decathlon after the gym tonight and tried some BTwins. I was definitely a Medium.
Menno, I am pretty sure I know what you mean. The guy fitting me explained angles of my arms and legs in relation to my torso with the seat set to the right height, with the small frame my body was too long and I’d have been too far over the handle bars which he said would ruin weight distribution and make the bike nervous.
I thought the 540 model, alloy frame, carbon forks, 105 gears, Mavic wheels, struck a nice balance of spec within my budget. I could have a 560 with full carbon frame but all the components were lower spec.
However I’ll get to Evans, Halfords and Cycles UK at the weekend to get more fittings and advice.
Once I am sure what I want I may well look out for an eBay bargain, but my work Cycle to Work scheme starts at Easter so I may well buy via this instead.
Thanks all, keep those gems of advice coming.
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Can’t guarantee we’re talking about the same thing, but the head tube angle can make a big difference to handling - the steeper it is, the faster the steering. Good if you want something that reacts very quickly, bad if you’re not used to it and can feel overly twitchy.
Cool, I understand this too, same think as my old motor biking days, ride a GSX-R and near vertical forks make it turn quicker but twitchy, ride a Harley with raked-out forks and get slower steering but greater stability. Any tips on rake/caster angle for the head/forks would be useful as something to look out for.
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Sorry if this is a bit long, but to be honest, I would go to a local bike shop (LBS) near you. If they are any good, they will include a bike fit. A good LBS is much better than Evans or Halfords. I’m a mean penny-pincher, but I use my LBS.
Brand and spec isn’t that important, although I accept Decathlon offer a lot for the money.
Size is really easy to get wrong, particularly in the modern world of proportionate frame sizes. Too small and you are cramped, too big is unrideable. Trying to compensate for a small frame with a longer stem messes with the steering. Ask the seller how he chooses the right frame size. Cocking your leg over isn’t the answer. Effective Top tube is a useful measure. My Cervelo is 56cm, my Focus cross is 58, who knows what my Kinesis winter bike is, but the ETT on all is 560mm
Most bikes are much of a muchness. Group set doesn’t matter, Tiagra is fine, actually Sora is fine.
Don’t forget you need to add at least £200 for shoes, pedals, helmet, shorts and track pump.
It’s a brilliant activity, life-changing for me. A good LBS is worth cultivating, mine has seen me through 4 bikes in 6 years, although most accessories, including clothing come from Wiggle. Btw their house brand, DHB, is a great place to start with clothing
Dave
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A proper fitting bike is the difference between (i) an un-used bike in the shed or (ii) lots of fun on the road.
An ill-fitting bike causes neck pain, aching knees and an aching back. Not all together, but often 2 combined.
M
I'd start with Chelmer Cycles and the Specialized Concept Store if I was you
In Dutch, but 'castor' is explained here and what it's for using different sorts of bikes. Use Translate I would suggest.
https://defietssite.nl/richtingsstab...-van-de-fiets/
I know nothing about bikes but this deal looks good.
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribbl...87daec1a932b61
Their Audax with the wheel fenders looks good considering the bike will be used as a commuter's bike! High vis lights on it, and off you go!
Even with the tax benefits the Decathlon bikes are better value than the bikes I've seen from Halfords
I think a TT bike would be a bold call as a first foray into road cycling.
Ribble Sportive through you're cycle to work scheme is worth a look (got one myself a few years back).
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