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Thread: How best to un polish the polished bits on my Seiko bracelet?

  1. #1

    How best to un polish the polished bits on my Seiko bracelet?

    Just received a lovely Seiko SUN019 from a fellow forum member, and it’s on a bracelet. Now I don’t usually do bracelets, but this ones quite nice and the watch does suite it. The trouble is it’s part brushed and part polished, and I really don’t like that. Is there an easy way to get rid of the small polished areas without buggering up the rest of the finish?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Darra8; 12th February 2018 at 13:43.

  2. #2
    Master ordo's Avatar
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    Yes you can remove the polished finish and give it a brushed finish but I'm not sure what people use.

    Scotch brite comes to mind and it gives a brushed finish. Some sort of cape cod might also work. I think I've seen people use some sort of very fine sand paper...

  3. #3
    You can buy padded nail buffers from supermarkets incorporating various grades of abrasive surfaces in different colours, I had excellent results using one of these removing/brushing PCL's on a bracelet I had

    I will however not take responsibility for any bad results or angry wives if you decide to take this advice

  4. #4
    Master
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    Imo Bergeon refinishing wheels are VERY GOOD, BEST PRACTICE ON A USED BRACELET.

  5. #5
    Grand Master
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    Garryflex pads.....simple as simple is.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by P9CLY View Post
    Garryflex pads.....simple as simple is.
    +1. Go for a medium/gray bar to get a decent brushed finish. Got mine on amazon

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Montybaber View Post
    You can buy padded nail buffers from supermarkets incorporating various grades of abrasive surfaces in different colours, I had excellent results using one of these removing/brushing PCL's on a bracelet I had

    I will however not take responsibility for any bad results or angry wives if you decide to take this advice
    Seconded, also for getting rid of minor marks on brushed cases.

  8. #8
    Isn’t the case part brushed and part polished? Maybe get look a bit odd imho


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by RobDad View Post
    Isn’t the case part brushed and part polished? Maybe get look a bit odd imho


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It is, and I think you could be right. I might just bottle it, and stick it on a Seiko rubber, if I can find one.

  10. #10
    Grand Master
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    Omega Aqua Terras feature a fully brushed bracelet and a mixed polished/brushed head, I don`t see that as a no-no personally.

    If it's worth doing, it's worth doing properly. A Repairer who also does refinishing will make a far better job of it and give the whole bracelet a freshening up. Frankly, I can`t see the problem with mixed polished/brushed finishes, I think they work well so I`d bbe happy with it as it is.

    Either spend a few £££ getting it done properly or leave it as it is, that's my advice. How do you propose to get the brushed finish right into the ends of the polished parts?.........no-one's thought about that! Seriously, getting it right can be a challenge and as ever the devil's in the detail.

    Getting the brushing to look perfectly straight can be harder than it looks, that's where doing the final finish on a wheel helps (as Bry suggested).

    Paul
    Last edited by walkerwek1958; 12th February 2018 at 18:52.

  11. #11
    Just found a pic of the bracelet I brushed, it was good enough for me and took about 5mins


  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Montybaber View Post
    Just found a pic of the bracelet I brushed, it was good enough for me and took about 5mins

    What did you use?

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Darra8 View Post
    What did you use?
    You can buy padded nail buffers from supermarkets incorporating various grades of abrasive surfaces in different colours, I had excellent results using one of these removing/brushing PCL's on a bracelet I had

    I will however not take responsibility for any bad results or angry wives if you decide to take this advice

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Montybaber View Post
    You can buy padded nail buffers from supermarkets incorporating various grades of abrasive surfaces in different colours, I had excellent results using one of these removing/brushing PCL's on a bracelet I had

    I will however not take responsibility for any bad results or angry wives if you decide to take this advice
    Sorry, should have looked at your name and made the connection.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Darra8 View Post
    Sorry, should have looked at your name and made the connection.
    No problem just thought it was easier to copy/paste it :)

  16. #16
    Grand Master
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    When the bracelet’s fully flexed you shouldn’t be able to see any polished bits remaining. Depending on the design this can be tricky to do, I use a fibreglass pen to get into the tight spaces if I have to prior to the final finishing. The brushed finish can then be applied using a blue garryflex block or a scotchbrite pad wrapped around a flat piece of wood. The bracelet needs to be fastened to something round to keep the links open and ( more importantly) to keep it from moving. When applying the finish the trick is to move in one direction and don’t stop or start with the abrasive in contact with the workpiece. Depending on how the links flex when the bracelet follows a curve, it can sometimes be difficult to get even contact and the bracelet has to be fastened to a flat surface for a final finish. If this is necessary I use double- sided foam tape to secure the bracelet to a plat piece of wood.

    Finishing with a wheel is far easier, but if the wheel’s running too fast the finish can ressemble beadblasting. Sometimes I apply a coarser finish by hand then do a final finish on the wheel, all depends on what the original finish is like and how I want it to look.

    Taking scratches / marks out before refinishing is essential to get a bracelet looking like new again. I use flat lolly sticks with wet and dry paper glued on using evostick, or stuck on using double- sided sponge tape. It tales a few minutes to make these but I can make whatever grade I need.

    Best way to learn us to practice on an old bracelet before working on something valuable!

    Paul

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    When the bracelet’s fully flexed you shouldn’t be able to see any polished bits remaining. Depending on the design this can be tricky to do, I use a fibreglass pen to get into the tight spaces if I have to prior to the final finishing. The brushed finish can then be applied using a blue garryflex block or a scotchbrite pad wrapped around a flat piece of wood. The bracelet needs to be fastened to something round to keep the links open and ( more importantly) to keep it from moving. When applying the finish the trick is to move in one direction and don’t stop or start with the abrasive in contact with the workpiece. Depending on how the links flex when the bracelet follows a curve, it can sometimes be difficult to get even contact and the bracelet has to be fastened to a flat surface for a final finish. If this is necessary I use double- sided foam tape to secure the bracelet to a plat piece of wood.

    Finishing with a wheel is far easier, but if the wheel’s running too fast the finish can ressemble beadblasting. Sometimes I apply a coarser finish by hand then do a final finish on the wheel, all depends on what the original finish is like and how I want it to look.

    Taking scratches / marks out before refinishing is essential to get a bracelet looking like new again. I use flat lolly sticks with wet and dry paper glued on using evostick, or stuck on using double- sided sponge tape. It tales a few minutes to make these but I can make whatever grade I need.

    Best way to learn us to practice on an old bracelet before working on something valuable!

    Paul

    Thanks Paul,

    Excellent info.

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