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Thread: H.Moser Pioneer Center Seconds (Steel)

  1. #1
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    H.Moser Pioneer Center Seconds (Steel)

    Thought I'd start a thread and put up some pics, thoughts etc on my recently aquired Moser to save derailing the Incoming thread.

    Since some folk like a story, (scroll down to the middle if you want to get past the backstory guff)

    For a quite a while I've admired independants from from afar, and been enthralled by both their artistry and innovation, but like most people never handled or seen them in the flesh which can make or break a watch.
    One of the independants on my radar was Moser, I'd discussed them many times with animalone and I thought that would have been as close I'd get to one.
    That was until last year when animalone was kind enough to let me sit in on a meeting with Moser, and I got the chance to play with alot of toys that the Moser rep Nicholas had brought with him. (no swiss alp, and no steel sadly at that time)

    Ultimately a rep is just that, he's gonna sell you, but what was nice he clearly works in the watch industry because he himself likes watches, and wasn't ashamed to admit he has a sub or two, admired seiko etc and we were able to sit and chat about almost any brand and their merits. I'm fairly sure a rep from a big brand would probably skirt around the existence of other brands let alone discuss them with passion.

    Back to the watches, I was impressed by the perpetual and its simplicity in usage, the way the endeavour conformed to the wrist with its curved back, and of course the way their dials have so much depth and color
    In the end I came away thinking, I wanted a perpetual calender, but now It's definately going to be a Moser perpetual.

    and of course we need pics from that day.













    Part2

    Fast forward to the tail end of last year, i'd been thinking for a while of offloading a few bits, and aquiring a Patek 5960/1A (steel, its a complication, oh... it says Patek on the dial),


    After selling up and getting most of the money in place, ended up being dinghy'd by the dealer, hey ho it wasn't meant to be.

    During this time, I'd asked Nicholas if there were any steel pioneers headed to the UK, turns out Harrods were getting a delivery.

    So why the Center Seconds, and not the Full Bhuna Perpetual?
    Simple answer, unless you count Bremont as an independant (?), I've never owned one. So without the experience of aftersales, parts supplies, repairs and overall would I bond in the long run. I opted for the option where I could dip my toe as it were into Moser, and it leaves room to upgrade to a perpetual at a later date.

    http://www.h-moser.com/en/collection...ight-blue-dial

    Basic Specs
    3 hander, 72hr power reserve, and 21kbhp, and water resistant to 120m

    Price : 9.5k

    Dimensions (measured roughly with calipers)
    Case Diameter : 42.8mm
    Crystal Diameter : 38.1mm
    Mid Case Thickness : 9.3mm
    Mid Case + Bezel Thickness: 10.58
    Overall Thickness : 14.7mm
    Lug width : 22mm
    Lug to Lug : 51.3mm

    On the wrist,
    Yes, 43ish means it wears big for a dressier kind of watch, especially with the very thin bezel which makes the main focal point the dial.
    An identically sized Bremont looks small in comparision.
    As for thickness, yes almost 15mm is maybe a little on the thick side, but visually it is not. The case conforms nicely to the wrist and the bezel creates a visible break in the steel which means the watch looks thinner that it actually is, add to that the crystal is AR coated on one side so its almost invisible most of the time (until you want to take a dial pic it seems)

    Overall, am I happy is my plan to upgrade to the perpetual still?
    Yes, I think so the Pioneer is a very comfortable to wear watch, while big its not a dinner plate that screams flash git. Its very subdued in some senses, and the depth of the midnight blue dial gives it a deep 3 dimensional effect.

    If I was to change anything?
    Maybe scale down to 41mm, 20mm strap, as it would appeal to a broader audience. (but the endevour is 40ish? so they have that covered, although its less sporty)
    But this isnt a biggie for me as I own a couple of PAMs, and the Sub-Dweller, and they look okay attached to me.

    On a NATO?
    Tried it, erm... no.

    and here we pics are in all its glory, sorry no wrist shots bar the recycled one from the incomming thread and instagram, the weather has been overcast since it arrived!
    Hopefully tomorrow or next week i'll get some wrist shots and size comparisons :)









    The Rubber is super nice, so soft and pliable, and rubber feeling not silicone rubber feeling like the 116655, or super hard rubber like the AP Diver, just nice.
    But Matte Croc won in the end.







    Last edited by endo; 12th January 2018 at 18:07.

  2. #2
    Master
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    lovely i really like that

  3. #3
    Just bloody lovely!
    It's just a matter of time...

  4. #4
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    I think it's my favourite of yours E. Which is a pretty mean feat considering. Can't wait to see it in sunlight (5 months time maybe)
    First dibs if you sacrifice to upgrade!

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    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    and some crusty movement close-ups, since i didnt really think to wipe down the case back :O






  6. #6
    Master S.L's Avatar
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    Beautiful, just beautiful!
    If possible please add more pics on the rubber thanks.

  7. #7
    Grand Master markrlondon's Avatar
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    Great post. Thank you very much for the eye candy!

    Such stunning watches.

  8. #8
    Master animalone's Avatar
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    Absolutely beautiful watch

  9. #9
    Craftsman cirotti's Avatar
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    Gorgeous watch....superbly finished and great attention to details....a very well done!!

  10. #10
    Grand Master Carlton-Browne's Avatar
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    Absolutely wonderful! Well done .
    Die Zeit verwandelt uns nicht, sie entfaltet uns nur.

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    Master Der Amf's Avatar
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    Ask animalone to whip the crystal off for a moment and tippex some minute markers onto that chapter ring

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    Absolutely stunning, the movement is a piece of art alone.

  13. #13
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by verv View Post
    I think it's my favourite of yours E. Which is a pretty mean feat considering. Can't wait to see it in sunlight (5 months time maybe)
    First dibs if you sacrifice to upgrade!
    Ha ha i want to see the 605 in the sunlight!
    For sure, unless i tempt you with a 511 first :p

    Quote Originally Posted by S.L View Post
    Beautiful, just beautiful!
    If possible please add more pics on the rubber thanks.
    Sure, could do that tomorrow if im in strap mode, ive bunch of dubious 22mm combinations to try :O

    Quote Originally Posted by Der Amf View Post
    Ask animalone to whip the crystal off for a moment and tippex some minute markers onto that chapter ring
    Normally it's him putting my stuff back togeter after i come crying with a broken watch after attempting some dubious mod :p

  14. #14
    Master animalone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo View Post

    Sure, could do that tomorrow if im in strap mode, ive bunch of dubious 22mm combinations to try :O
    Please keep that snake skin one away from it

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    Master Top Cat's Avatar
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    That's a beauty! You should definitely scratch that perpetual calendar itch at some point. They are fantastic.


  16. #16
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by animalone View Post
    Please keep that snake skin one away from it
    Can you get one in 22 for me :p
    Only have 20 & 24 lol


    Quote Originally Posted by Top Cat View Post
    That's a beauty! You should definitely scratch that perpetual calendar itch at some point. They are fantastic.

    Trust me that's the plan :)
    Btw the black tianium is wondeful in the metal

    I love the simplicity of the dial, as well as the idiotproof ease of use, forward/back date set at any time day perfect, what more can you ask for :)
    Nicholas from Moser almost challenged me to try and break it, since i was a tad fearful about playing with the date/month function in case it went ping!
    Last edited by endo; 12th January 2018 at 20:23.

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    Master animalone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo View Post
    Can you get one in 22 for me :p
    Only have 20 & 24 lol!
    Careful what you wish for

  18. #18
    Master MFB Scotland's Avatar
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    Beautiful watch :)

  19. #19
    Thanks for that mate - I've been considering what to buy after I sell a few pieces off and this really does fit the bill in so many ways. I want independent, sporty and dressy with no undersized date windows.

    Price is a bit high, but I really can't think of much that fits the bill like this. Lets see after the sell off...

    Edit: the side profile is absolutely excellent, love how the whole case just slides down....

  20. #20
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    Fantastic watch - really like the shape of the case. Just wish it was 3mm smaller.

  21. #21
    Stunning watch. They also do these in Rose Gold for around 15k and one of the versions has a sunburst dial which is absolutely incredible. When I go to Honk Kong I will be keeping my eyes wide open.

  22. #22
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    Gorgeous watch. I am looking forward to them adding something between 38mm and 40mm in stainless steel.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

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    Master Mr Curta's Avatar
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    There aren't many threads that cause me to reevaluate and consider consolidating, but this is certainly one of them. Well done indeed.

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    Master blackal's Avatar
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    Much too classy for me!

  25. #25
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    Great watch!

    Long time no speak Endo!

    Your thread has drawn me out from a long hibernation from TZUK following my move two years ago to HK.

    I had dinner with Nicholas H and Bertrand Meylan here in HK when I first laid eyes on this as well as the rose gold/ti dlc version along with a wide variety of their funky dial variants, their perpetuals and other bits and bobs. I know Nicholas was flying straight on to the UK and to Edinburgh to meet H&I and I also put him in touch with Laings. I'm delighted to see you fell under the spell!

    Notwithstanding the present controversy around their Swiss Icons unique piece which has now been pulled, no doubt due to pressure exerted by bloody lawyers (!) citing patents blah blah blah, I think Moser are a breath of fresh air. I too have been looking increasingly at the independents including FPJ (two now!) and only recently picked up the rose gold Pioneer Center Seconds. I like the combination of the gold and the titanium dlc coated case, particularly in the sides. The fume dial changes totally depending on the light. I think you've picked up a beauty with that. If it doesn't sound completely ridiculous I actually sold my PP Aquanaut, bought from new, to buy this. It's more understandable the radar and feels more robust and has the same 120m waterproofing. It helped that I got more for my PP than what I paid!

    If I can figure out how to post pictures I'll add some of mine. I would also add that the perpetual is a thing of beauty and stunning simplicity. Also worth getting a look at is the tourbillon. Nothing on the dial at all other than the tourbillon itself. In an age where brands tend to err towards over-cluttering dials I do like this 'provocation'. The Meylan family are doing good things with Moser and Nicholas is a great guy too. They've got quite a loyal following out here in HK.


    Enjoy it!

  26. #26
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    Movement is stunning


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  27. #27
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    Thanks guys,
    I agree, scaling it down a bit by 3mm to 40mm would be perfect. But I feel that might make the distinction between the Endeavour line harder to decipher.

    Short lugs make all the difference to, so it remains comfy.


    Quote Originally Posted by gusmac View Post
    Long time no speak Endo!

    Your thread has drawn me out from a long hibernation from TZUK following my move two years ago to HK.

    ....I too have been looking increasingly at the independents including FPJ (two now!) and only recently picked up the rose gold Pioneer Center Seconds. I like the combination of the gold and the titanium dlc coated case, particularly in the sides. The fume dial changes totally depending on the light. I think you've picked up a beauty with that. If it doesn't sound completely ridiculous I actually sold my PP Aquanaut, bought from new, to buy this. It's more understandable the radar and feels more robust and has the same 120m waterproofing. It helped that I got more for my PP than what I paid!.....

    Enjoy it!
    Long time for sure, coming back anytime for a few drinks?

    Actually come to think of it the first independent I handled was your Chronometre Bleu, I've on/off be hunting for one as it's a thing of beauty, remember handing you back the PP almost in disgust after seeing that gorgeous Journe movement!

    The rose is very nice, the colour contrast between the gold and the DLC works really well.
    I'd love to see pics of the gold :)

    Actually you can tell the case is almost better of as two tone, since the steel has a really soft fillet where the contrasting material should be. Feel like a high polish would have provided better contrast, or sharpening that edge so it's not as soft.




    Edit, Adding basic size comparison, and how it wears on the wrist :D
    (i've always worn watches past the bone, think that's why its easier to go big)








    and its a very basic comparison since overall diameters isnt everything, but here' it is vs other watches with comparible diameters.

    Last edited by endo; 13th January 2018 at 13:30.

  28. #28
    Craftsman Go Big's Avatar
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    That is one of the nicest watches I have seen for a long time.

    I'm usually more of a tool watch, but that would snare me!

  29. #29
    Master daveyw's Avatar
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    A great choice. Congrats

  30. #30
    Beautiful colour dial, from a brilliant Independent Marque.

    In some ways , I am pleased that the case size is nearly 43mm.

    Come to that so is my bank manager! :)

  31. #31
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    I really liked the pics in the incoming thread and these just reinforce that view. I have been thinking on taking a chance on Moser before but now I can see I am going to have to make the effort to handle a few when I next can.
    I know what what would be on the chopping block to fund it. Need to see if rea life matches up to the pics...

  32. #32
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    Fantastic. Congratulations. Touch on the large side for me at 43mm in that style otherwise I’d probably have one. If/when I do go Moser I think it will be for a fume no text dial, centre seconds, no date.

  33. #33
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    A couple pics of the RG taken at SQP. Unfortunately not the best, due to the lighting, but does give a flavour.


  34. #34
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    Endo, I hold you responsible for this !! Fridays arrival.


  35. #35
    Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    Beautiful watches, oh dear.........

  36. #36
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Such stunning watches. I do miss mine, but I know I'll have another when the time is right.





    Nice to hear that the Nicholas chap is a genuine watch nut too

  37. #37
    That's a tad too big for my liking - especially when viewed next to those other big buggers!

    That said, quality, finish and design are absolutely sublime - and, on a larger wrist, that watch will look spectacular.

  38. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Such stunning watches. I do miss mine, but I know I'll have another when the time is right.





    Nice to hear that the Nicholas chap is a genuine watch nut too
    That's beautiful. The first time l ever saw that model l was in two minds about the 12... for about five minutes, then it all made perfect sense.

  39. #39
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Umbongo View Post
    That's beautiful. The first time l ever saw that model l was in two minds about the 12... for about five minutes, then it all made perfect sense.
    I know what you mean, and I can understand anyone not being sure about it. As you say, though, it just works.

  40. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    I know what you mean, and I can understand anyone not being sure about it. As you say, though, it just works.
    I think that another single, or a double, baton at twelve would have, though nice enough, been playing it just that little bit too safe and it would have been too similar to every other watch of its type lve ever seen.

  41. #41
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    No-one seems to have mentioned it yet, so can you say something more about the very first one in the thread with the red burst dial? That one looks really special, and I haven't really ever seen anything like it.

  42. #42
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Umbongo View Post
    I think that another single, or a double, baton at twelve would have, though nice enough, been playing it just that little bit too safe and it would have been too similar to every other watch of its type lve ever seen.
    They do make a version with a baton instead of a twelve. They’re both Mayus - give it a Google when you have a minute. Both are lovely IMO.

  43. #43
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    Another pic, just because....


  44. #44
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP28 View Post
    Endo, I hold you responsible for this !! Fridays arrival.

    Ha ha, nice choice though!
    Have you got any more pics of the Kudu strap? I was thinking about ordering one :D





    Vaguely related...
    I hold Moser responsible for me putting a note of interest in for this years cosmic green pioneer :p

  45. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    They do make a version with a baton instead of a twelve. They’re both Mayus - give it a Google when you have a minute. Both are lovely IMO.
    Oddly l knew what you meant... but my mind is chock full of potentially unnecessary words and facts that l find interesting!
    Both lovely watches. Moser are undeniably getting it right.

  46. #46
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lasz View Post
    No-one seems to have mentioned it yet, so can you say something more about the very first one in the thread with the red burst dial? That one looks really special, and I haven't really ever seen anything like it.
    That's the Swiss Mad watch, a "more accessible" version of the Cheese watch.
    The red dial is so insanely deep and vibrant in the flesh.... name is apt though, it drove me mad trying to get a semi decent pic which showed off the dial.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo View Post
    Ha ha, nice choice though!
    Have you got any more pics of the Kudu strap? I was thinking about ordering one :D
    Will try and get some pics tomorrow.
    I was almost sure it would not work and I would just go with the rubber and the croc/gator. However it does work and its really comfy. Also has a very interesting texture. Very much like the Panerai assolutamente in a lot of ways. So will keep it on for a while.
    Where do you order straps from ?? I have sent Moser an email as I would like to buy the fabric strap that's is shown on the pioneer cosmic green new release and I cannot get a reply.

  48. #48
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    That is one of the nicest watches I have seen in a long time. Congratulations, it's stunning. Great pictures too.

  49. #49
    Craftsman endo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JP28 View Post
    Will try and get some pics tomorrow.
    I was almost sure it would not work and I would just go with the rubber and the croc/gator. However it does work and its really comfy. Also has a very interesting texture. Very much like the Panerai assolutamente in a lot of ways. So will keep it on for a while.
    Where do you order straps from ?? I have sent Moser an email as I would like to buy the fabric strap that's is shown on the pioneer cosmic green new release and I cannot get a reply.
    Thanks i' really appreciate it, would really love to see how it looks.
    Oliver from moser had a perpetual on the Kudu and it looked great, love the party on the inside contrast lining.

    I order the straps via Harrods, but i have a couple of the Moser guys on whatsapp so i can give them a shout after Basel and see if I can get a response :)
    (i'm guessing its all hands on deck for them right now!)

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Such stunning watches. I do miss mine, but I know I'll have another when the time is right.
    Your old one is still on the forum. Although it always looks better in your pics than any I have posted in a Friday thread!

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