2017 is a big year for Grand Seiko. Seiko announced during Baselworld 2017 that GS (Grand Seiko) from now on will be separated from Seiko. What this means is that GS will now be considered a “separate brand”, meaning the GS line-up shall be able to hold its own with a complete line-up in all different categories of watches. GS has since the introduction 1960 aimed to compete with the best high-end Swiss made watches but there has never been a mechanical GS Chronograph or a mechanical GS diver’s watch (until now).
Seiko launched their first hi-beat diver’s watch, the 6159-7000/7001 the year 1968. The 6159 movement was taken directly from a GS model and was only modified to be able to carry the larger hands required by a diver’s watch. The watch had a monoque (one piece) case and a water resistance of 300 meters. The 6159-7000/7001 was discontinued a year later and replaced by the “Grandfather Tuna”, the 6159-7010 the year 1975.
The discontinuation of the Grandfather Tuna left a void in the line-up of hi-beat diver’s watches from Seiko all the way up til 2015 when Seiko released the SBEX001, a Prospex (Professional Specification) diver’s watch with a 8L55 movement, meaning a hi-beat version of the 8L35 commonly known from the SBDX001/017 aka mm300. From that day we knew that it was only a matter of time until we would see a hi-beat Grand Seiko diver’s watch and a hi-beat version of the 6159-7000/7001.
The SBGH255/257 is not only the first mechanical diver’s watch from GS, it’s also the first GS Prospex model. The SBGH255 is a standard model with a black dial while the SBGH257 is a limited edition of 500 watches in the new Grand Seiko color scheme, blue and silver. The limited edition version also comes with a Grand Seiko blue silicone diver’s strap to match the dial.
SBGH257
Diameter: 46.9mm x 17mm
Material: Case and bracelet in high intensity titanium (only used for GS models)
Vertical measurement (lug2lug): 51mm
Band width: 23mm
Movement: 9s85 (36000 vph, 55 hrs power reserve)
Price: Fluctuates a lot depending on market.
LE: 500 watches.
Movement
The 9S85 was introduced 2009 and is Grand Seikos first mechanical hi-beat (36 000 vph) movement. The movement has one mainspring resulting in a power reserve of 55 hours. The traditional prawl lever/magic lever introduced by Seiko 1959 has been replaced by a gear-train called the “reverser wheel”, enabling effective bi directional automatic winding.
The movements high frequency poses some problems, mostly regarding wear and lubrication. This has led to the development and usage of a high precision pallet fork and escapement wheel produced by using MEMS (Micro Electro Mechanical System). The MEMS escapement parts are used exclusively in today’s Grand SEIKO mechanical movements and in the latest generations of the 8L versions mentioned previously. The result is better lubrication and better timekeeping.
Another thing to note is that the 9S85 is magnetically protected in the SBGH255/257 the old fashioned way, by a double caseback and a metal dial. The magnetic resistance meets the requirements of JIS 2. This is indicated by the double lines under the magnet inscription on the caseback.
Case
Grand Seiko cases are polished by a technique called Zaratsu which essentially is to polish the case against a flat rotating disc. This is what Casio calls Sallaz polish and the Swiss often call polishing by lapping machine. The result is a flat high gloss surface that doesn’t distort the reflection. The Seiko polishers have perfected the art of polishing and they are continuously improving the technique to enable more complex case shapes.
GS introduced the first model that utilized the Seiko design language “Grammar of design” 1967. The designer Toro Tanaka introduced Grammar of design to improve the legibility and style of Seiko in general but it is mostly seen in the Grand Seiko and King Seiko line-up. Combining this design language with the Zaratsu polishing techniques is what distinguishes Grand Seiko from the rest of the watch industry and makes a Grand Seiko easy to recognize.
The current designer, Shinchiro Kubo, has designed all of the Grand Seiko diver’s watches; the SBGH255/257, SBGA029/031/229/231 (the Springdrive diver’s), and the SBGX115/117 (discontinued quartz diver’s watch). All of the previous GS diver’s watches have however had curved lugs and a softer/rounder case shape than the SBGH255/257, so it pleases me that the hi-beat GS diver’s watch got the sharp angled case that I consider to be the essence of Grand Seiko.
The sharp angled mirror polished lugs of the case and the industrial designed bezel feels innovative yet reminds us of the design history. The sides of the case are brushed, just like the top of the case.
Initially, I didn’t like the case chamfering closest to the bracelet but now it’s one of the elements I really like about this case. The high gloss chamfer matches the polished parts of the end links perfectly. As always with Grand Seiko, the finishing of the case is very close to perfectly executed. Both the bezel and the crown are recessed into the case which in turn results in a case shape that looks very compact. The overall case shape reminds me of the SBGH037 case, also designed by Mr Kubo.
Bezel
The polished part on the inside of the bezel inlay that meets the crystal hint that there is something new going on. The bezel construction is new and is developed to ease servicing of the bezel and eventual replacements of single parts. The bezel inlay is made by IP, Ion Plating. It looks ceramic but it’s not. The reason for this is that Seiko feels that ceramics is fragile and can crack when suffering hard blows. IP parts are also cheaper to replace if bruised.
The bezel inlay is slightly raised which offers great grip in combination with the deep grooves in the bezel. Turning it is a joy and the friction is just about right with no play in either direction.
Caseback
Turning the watch over reveils the solid screwed down caseback. I personally hate display casebacks so I’m happy to see that engraved lion looking at me. We also see the big chamfer of the back of the case which has been incorporated with most of Seikos diver’s watches since the release of the 6215 model 1967. This chamfer in combination with the downward angled lugs are what makes the watch hug your wrist and sit great despite it’s measurements.
Bracelet
The bracelet is specifically developed for the case of the SBGH255/257 and it has thicker links than we are used to. This is of course a positive since too thin bracelets is a common complaint from owners of Seiko diver’s watches.
The links are the new H-type introduced only a few years ago and the links have a new chamfer which looks great. The chamfer matches the end links and the case perfectly resulting in an overall great looking angular package. The weight of the bracelet is just about right and makes for a balanced weight distribution between the case and the bracelet.
As usual with Seiko, titanium means pins and collars, a system which I like and which I in contrary to many people consider a great system. This system provides fast adjustments and prevents the need for Loctite to hinder screws from vibrating loose when diving/swimming.
Clasp
The clasp is the only obvious negative part about the watch. It is the classic bulky mm300/GS diver’s type folding clasp with integrated divers extension. There is nothing functionally wrong with it but it’s far from OK at this price point. It is made of partly folded metal and while its less obvious with these thick links, it’s still way too thick at this price point.
The clasp rattles when it’s off the wrist but sits firm once the watch is on the wrist. The clasp features both regular micro adjustments and a 3cm “on the fly” adjustment. The clasp is far from competitive at this price point. I did of course know about the clasp before I bought the watch and I have become used to the “clasp aspects” that comes with buying a Seiko diver’s watch, but still, something surely needs to evolve.
A closer look
The designer, Mr Kubo got the inspiration to the dial during his first scuba diving experience. He was wearing a Seiko Tuna and he noticed that the gold color accents was the first color to disappear when descending. That effect made the luminous parts stand out and this is the reason for the color scheme of the standard black dial version (SBGH255). The limited version, the SBGH257 obviously got the Grand Seiko blue/silver color scheme to celebrate the GS independence.
Mr Kubo was also mesmerized by the shape of the bubbles rising and that is where the design of the dial pattern comes from.
The indices and the seconds hand are polished to a mirror finish, while the other hands are brushed. The dial color shifts from a very dark blue to a bright blue depending on the light conditions. There is always some part of the dial, indices or hands catching the light which results in that great Grand Seiko legibility.
The date disc is silver which harmonizes well which the silver dial text.
All the hands have perfect length and reaches where they are supposed to. The fantastic finish of all the detailed parts under the crystal is as usual with GS very hard to match, regardless of price point. Legibility is very very good.
Another detail to note is that the GS high intensity titanium (only used for GS models) is brighter than what most consider to be the norm with titanium. In some lights it’s just as bright as steel.
On the wrist
46,9mm sounds crazy for everyday wear, and while I was a sceptic before I bought the watch, I must say it wears great.
As I see it, there are three negatives to wearability when it comes to large watches; They are too heavy, they are often too long lug to lug resulting in a bad fit and they have a tendency to hinder the movement of the hand since the crown or the case sides are bumping/digging into your hand.
The SBGH257 eliminates all these negatives and even manages to not be too top heavy. This is achieved by using titanium, by making the lug2lug only 51mm, by integrating the crown and the bezel into the case and of course by chamfering the back of the case.
The bracelet also tapers from 23mm to only 18mm, which works wonders when you want to bend the wrist. The large flat case sides and the overall brute appearance is deceiving.
Conclusion
I must admit I was quite disappointed when the SBGH255/257 was announced during Baselworld 2017. Sure, it looks amazing but I had been waiting for a hi-beat GS diver’s watch for ever and when it was finally released it turned out to be a beast. A beautiful beast, but a beast non the less and a very expensive one.
I did what I do most of the time and tried to resist, then I bought it anyway since I was so curious. I immediately realized what a fool I had been. I have now worn this watch pretty much nonstop for the last three weeks and I love it. I neither like titanium nor blue but with this watch it works great. It’s also nice that Seiko released the limited edition version in the new color combination that will represent Grand Seiko from 2017 and onwards.
The design is fantastic, brutal yet sophisticated and it connect very well to the “Grammar of design” heritage and still feels new and fresh. The finishing on the details is as always when it comes to Grand Seiko flawless and hard to beat regardless of price point. I really hope that Grand Seiko sticks to the sharp angular designs which for me represents the essence of Grand Seiko.
There are however a few negatives, as there always are. The clasp is far from OK at this price and the silicone strap is so bad I don’t even want to include it in the review. As a Seiko fanatic however, these flaws where expected and I can easily live with them since the rest of the package is so great. The special box for this model (and a few other 2017 LE models) looks like a very nice watch case for three watches but sadly doesn’t include three pillows which I find odd. It would be a great bonus for those purchasing a new LE model.
From my point of view, the SBGH257 stays true both to the Prospex aspects of Seiko and the minimalist perfectionist philosophy that is Grand Seiko. The hi-beat GS diver’s watch is basically a Seiko Tuna by GS, making it a very nice Grand Tuna, or “Blue whale”, as I like to call it.
I’m very excited to see what’s next for Grand Seiko as they continue to broaden the lineup, hopefully there will soon be a mechanical “air diver’s” with the same design.
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