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Thread: Not a WIS -- barely a WI -- so, idiot questions in search of understanding

  1. #1
    Craftsman
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    Not a WIS -- barely a WI -- so, idiot questions in search of understanding

    Newbie Idiot Question No 1:

    What does the number of jewels in a movement signify?
    And, why isn't more better? (I note that the GO 65-01 caliber has 48, whilst Moritz Grossmann, just down the road, has only 17 in his more expensive 100.0!)

    Thanks for your help -- but warn you that useful replies might well generate lots more idiot questions!

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  3. #3
    Grand Master snowman's Avatar
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    Excellent first post!

    I assume that 17 is the 'magic' number for a three hander and anything more is only relevant on a watch with more complications?

    M

  4. #4
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    Thank you gentlemen, I am now better informed.

    Next question though: what constitutes a "complication"?
    Is it anything at all which goes beyond the abilities of the 17 jewel mechanism (i.e. even a date or a power reserve)?



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  5. #5
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowman View Post
    Excellent first post!

    I assume that 17 is the 'magic' number for a three hander and anything more is only relevant on a watch with more complications?

    M
    I think there is a bit more to it than that.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    Thank you gentlemen, I am now better informed.

    Next question though: what constitutes a "complication"?
    Is it anything at all which goes beyond the abilities of the 17 jewel mechanism (i.e. even a date or a power reserve)?



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    GMT for one! Chronograph for another!

  7. #7
    Master
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    A complication is any additional function other than telling the time. Functions including timezone, day, date, moon phase, stopwatch, etc etc are all complications. And you Sir, are no idiot questioner, only an enquiring mind asks questions.

  8. #8
    Journeyman Alan...'s Avatar
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    Good questions. ... and thanks for the link as well. ( I'd never thought about it before)

    Sent from my SM-G900F using TZ-UK mobile app

  9. #9
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    Next question, Gentlemen (are there any Ladies?)

    I have seen several times Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and A Lange & Söhne referred to as the world's premier watch makers.
    Why is that? And what makes them inherently more desirable than (for instance) Breguet, Franck Muller, or Jaeger-LeCoultre?

  10. #10
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    There are women on the forum, only a few but typically easy to spot as having a lower BS quota than the average.

    Good question though. I think it depends a lot on what matters to you. Some of the companies you listed, and some others, are capable of quite exquisite workmanship that can't be reproduced. Handling such watches helps to bring that to life, as do some threads on here especially from watchmakers and experts who can explain what is involved. From what I have learned here and elsewhere there are niche makers, worth seeking out, who operate at a level even above those you have listed, at least for their mainstream models.

    On the other hand, you might be more into technical innovation in the movements. I dare say JLeC can hold its head pretty high in that respect along with plenty of others (but I am biased).

    If it's design, then you'll see every shade of opinion on here: PP are classically beautiful/dull/ugly depending on not much at all.

    Then there is the impact on wristwatch culture generally. Surely Rolex are the 'premier' maker in this respect. But what about Seiko?

    Can I ask what kind of watches you like/own? Posting pictures of your watch/es always goes down well here.

  11. #11
    Grand Master MartynJC (UK)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    Next question, Gentlemen (are there any Ladies?)

    I have seen several times Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and A Lange & Söhne referred to as the world's premier watch makers.
    Why is that? And what makes them inherently more desirable than (for instance) Breguet, Franck Muller, or Jaeger-LeCoultre?
    Question 1: Yes

    Question 2: plagiarised from the web:

    High-End Luxury
    There are always superb options when money is no object.
    Expect To Get:
    A particularly refined watch recognized only by people "in the know." Very exclusive in design and craftsmanship, produced in small numbers, available through only very specialized dealers. In short, these are the Rolls Royce class of timepieces.
    Examples of Brands in this Range: Expect Retail Prices To Be:
    A Lange and Sohne, Alain Silberstein, Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Franck Muller, JLC, Parmigiani, Patek Phillipe, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin starting at $5,000 for Steel models
    starting at $10,000 for Gold on a leather strap
    starting at $20,000 for Gold on a Gold bracelet
    with the sky as the limit. Some watches can exceed $2,000,000.
    Design/Style: On The Outside: On The Inside:
    Either highly distinctive or ultra-conservative. Very to extremely limited production. Partially to completely handcrafted. Hand finished mechanical movements either developed and produced by the same company ('in-house') or bought from specialty movement houses and highly customized. Additional mechanical complications--from obvious ones like moon phases and power reserve indicators to very subtle ones like correctly handling all the obscure conditions of the Gregorian calendar.
    As NEW watches: As USED watches: As VINTAGE watches:
    Sold mainly through very exclusive and high-end jewelry dealers. While some modest discounts are customary, larger discounts are rare. Some of these are available through gray market dealers. But on such exclusive and expensive products, it is not usually a good idea to buy through unauthorized sources. Because of high new watch prices and limited production, used models are in notable demand and still command quite decent prices. Always collectible, always valuable.
    Summary:
    If you have the kind of money necessary to play in this field, then you likely do understand what the true merits and values of world-class luxury items have to offer. These are the products that impress those in the know, not the average Joe on the street. Exclusivity and extremes of refinement and jewelry value are king here.
    Luxury
    The largest, most widely known class of luxury timepieces
    Expect To Get:
    An elegant, valuable, stylish and prestigious watch that will serve you well for a long time. Of quality and durability that the watch can be passed down to your children. If maintained in good condition, can be resold whether it is 6 months or 30 years old.
    Examples of Brands in this Range: Expect Retail Prices To Be:
    Breitling, Cartier, Ebel, Omega, Rolex, TAG Heuer $1,000-$4,000 for Steel models
    $2,500-$8,000 for Gold on a leather strap
    $5,000-$20,000 for Gold on a Gold bracelet
    Only modest discounts available through most brand-authorized dealers. Moderate discounts available from unauthorized "gray market" dealers.
    Design/Style: On The Outside: On The Inside:
    Trend-setting styles that range from traditional to highly original. Each brand usually has at least one or two very distinctive styles. Cases and bracelets mass-produced, but with the superlative fit and finish of fine jewelry. Surgical grade steel. Solid gold of 18 karat or sometimes 14 karat. Highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystals. High-end movements mass produced by the brand, or by a different company and then often customized by the brand. Dominantly very high-grade quartz and chronometer-grade mechanical. Digital quartz not seen at this level except for a few very specialized aerospace watches.
    As NEW watches: As USED watches: As VINTAGE watches:
    Sold officially mainly through dealers of higher-end jewelry. Though several forms of unauthorized resellers exist. Discounts through authorized dealers are restricted by the manufacturers to avoid cheapening the brand image. Superb market. Watches in this class are well sought after, but their high initial pricing encourages many buyers to seek used ones to better suit their budgets. Superb market. Watches in this class can last for many decades and are readily available through many reputable used watch dealers.
    Summary:
    This is the main tier of true luxury watches. Overall, these can be a good value because manufacturers at this level are not skimping to offer 'luxury' products at more moderate prices--yet they mostly do not go to outrageous excess in details without regard to cost of the highest-end brands. Better durability and modest depreciation rates make the long-term cost of ownership of these watches quite reasonable. Used watches in this tier can be an outstanding value.
    Pseudo Luxury Watches
    When you want a better luxury watch, but don't want to spend so much
    Expect To Get:
    An elegant and stylish watch that will serve you well for a moderate number of years.
    Examples of Brands in this Range: Expect Retail Prices To Be:
    Baume & Mercier, Raymond Weil $500-$2,000 for Steel models
    $750-$4,000 for Gold models
    Moderate to heavy discounts available through various dealers.
    Design/Style: On The Outside: On The Inside:
    More trend following than trend leading. Mass-produced with adequate fit and finish. Steel. Filled or solid gold. Crystals may be mineral glass, acrylic or sometimes synthetic sapphire. High-volume mass-production. Mostly analog quartz and non-chronometer grade mechanical. These brands tend to focus mostly on luxury-style exteriors equipped with very common, unexceptional watch movements.
    As NEW watches: As USED watches: As VINTAGE watches:
    Sold as the 'better' brands in department stores and mall-type watch store chains. Sometimes sold as the 'low-end' brands in fine jewelry stores. Limited market. Despite some of these being priced new close to brands in the true Luxury category, the heavier discounting when new, trendy styles that become dated and poorer long term durability depreciate their value rapidly. Most of these brands cannot claim any meaningful vintage heritage, even though some are operating under names of bought out companies that were well reputed in earlier decades.
    Summary:
    This is the transition tier--these watches are the high-end brands of the mass market stores, but the low-end brands at the finer jewelry stores. Overall, these can be the weaker value in luxury watches. They still have hefty prices, yet lack many of the better durability and long-term value benefits of the only slightly more expensive watches. Used watches from brands in the next tier up bought from reliable used watch dealers are usually a much better value.
    Basic Luxury Watches
    When you want something finer than average
    Expect To Get:
    An elegant and stylish watch that will serve you well for a number of years.
    Examples of Brands in this Range: Expect Retail Prices To Be:
    Epos, Fortis, Movado, Oris under $1,000 for Steel models
    under $2,000 for Gold models
    Moderate to heavy discounts available through various dealers.
    Design/Style: On The Outside: On The Inside:
    Mostly classic or trend following, though some brands in this class depend on style uniqueness as their real value. Mass-produced with adequate fit and finish. Steel. Plated or filled golds. Crystals are usually the scratchable but inexpensively replaced mineral glass or acrylic type. High-volume mass-production. Mostly analog quartz and non-chronometer grade mechanical. However some offer very unique complications at modest prices relative to most of the luxury watch market.
    As NEW watches: As USED watches: As VINTAGE watches:
    Sold in department stores and mall-type watch store chains, though some of these brands are unique enough that they only appear in watch specialty stores. Sometimes sold as the 'low-end' brands in fine jewelry stores. Limited market, main point of resale for this class of watches is pawn shops. Once these watches reach a 'vintage' age, their style, condition and values are seldom appealing enough to create any significant demand for them--except for those in virtually unused condition.
    Summary:
    This is the first tier of 'luxury' caliber watches. While there is a broad range, many brands at this level are excellent values as they are not trying to be more than they are. Some concentrate more on 'fashion' watches, others focus on affordable yet horologically sound products. The more modest prices make these a less risky purchase--you haven't invested so much that long-term value is of such concern.

  12. #12
    Master mycroft's Avatar
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    Blimey Martyn, that's a post and a half!

    Can I just say that any new member who refers to himself as "barely a WI", recognises the need to take account of ladies on the forum and asks searching and intelligent questions about watches is an absolute breath of fresh air. You Sir will go far .

    Welcome to the forum and please feel free to tell us something about yourself and your watch(es). We like photos too...

    Simon


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  13. #13
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    Thank you AlfaT33 (in itself hugely desirable!!), MartynJC and Mycroft.

    I regard myself as just getting into watches (as a retirement gift to myself), so, to date, I own only four.

    These are:

    The everyday watch, given to me as a gift in the 1980s. Rolex 17000 in steel. Internet photo I'm afraid as my example is away for service (and has been for all eternity).




    After that I have bought watches only as things of beauty -- male jewelry.

    The first was my Cartier Santos quartz -- mainly because I didn't think the rather agricultural Rolex looked good with black tie. In the best traditions of slightly "aspergic" vanity, I have matching cuff-links.




    The second, I simply fell in love with in the window of Wempe in Hamburg. At the time, I thought it was the most beautiful watch I had ever seen (and still love it). It took me a week of daily visits to grind them down to a price I thought I could afford.

    Audemars Piguet "Huitième" chronograph in yellow gold.




    The story of the last is a little embarrassing. When I "retired" I promised myself another watch (my retirement involved the sale of a company). Looking around for something really elegant I was directed by Wempe in London towards the eye-wateringly expensive Lange Grosse 1, which, I had to admit was something quite special. However, when I came to actually buying, I noticed something which to my humble eye was significantly more gorgeous. You'll probably all think I am completely mad to have preferred it, but I am now the happy owner of this.



    The upside, however, is that I have quite a lot of "budget" left of other forays into small, beautiful mechanical objects!

  14. #14
    Grand Master
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    Just to clarify, the 'jewels' in a watch have no value as gemstones!

    In the distant past repairers were accused of nicking the jewels from watches.......definitely a myth.

    Thesedays, most watches have most of the automatic winding pivots jewelled, which ups the jewel count and helps longevity.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    Thank you AlfaT33 (in itself hugely desirable!!), MartynJC and Mycroft.

    I regard myself as just getting into watches (as a retirement gift to myself), so, to date, I own only four.

    These are:

    The everyday watch, given to me as a gift in the 1980s. Rolex 17000 in steel. Internet photo I'm afraid as my example is away for service (and has been for all eternity).

    After that I have bought watches only as things of beauty -- male jewelry.

    The first was my Cartier Santos quartz -- mainly because I didn't think the rather agricultural Rolex looked good with black tie. In the best traditions of slightly "aspergic" vanity, I have matching cuff-links.

    The second, I simply fell in love with in the window of Wempe in Hamburg. At the time, I thought it was the most beautiful watch I had ever seen (and still love it). It took me a week of daily visits to grind them down to a price I thought I could afford.

    Audemars Piguet "Huitième" chronograph in yellow gold.




    The story of the last is a little embarrassing. When I "retired" I promised myself another watch (my retirement involved the sale of a company). Looking around for something really elegant I was directed by Wempe in London towards the eye-wateringly expensive Lange Grosse 1, which, I had to admit was something quite special. However, when I came to actually buying, I noticed something which to my humble eye was significantly more gorgeous. You'll probably all think I am completely mad to have preferred it, but I am now the happy owner of this.



    The upside, however, is that I have quite a lot of "budget" left of other forays into small, beautiful mechanical objects!
    Four wonderful watches each with their own story - excellent!

    I do love those last two, and the first time I have seen either of them.... but then I only qualify for the middle initial of WIS!

  16. #16
    Master
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    That's an impressive collection. I rather like the Cartier but they don't get much love here. You don't see many Oysterquartz either.

    Hodinkee had a nice piece a while back on the big three of AP, PP and VC--and why they are regarded as the big three. All firms of long standing who only produce luxury items. Lange are up there in the luxury stakes but don't have the long unbroken history.

    Welcome to TZ-UK. If you want ideas for how to *invest* your money, you've come to the right place. You might find yourself soon fixated on watches you didn't know existed.


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  17. #17
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    Four lovely looking watches. Nice to see a different AP and the GO is lovely.

    And you know what a T33 is - clearly a person of good taste in all respects.

    Of the four, which would you regard as the 'premier' watch?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfat33 View Post
    Four lovely looking watches. Nice to see a different AP and the GO is lovely.

    And you know what a T33 is - clearly a person of good taste in all respects.

    Of the four, which would you regard as the 'premier' watch?

    @alfat33

    Is yours a "Stradale", or strictly for the track?

    Interesting question -- and hopefully hypothetical. Clearly it would have to be between the two mechanical units. Despite AP being one of Hodinkee's "big three", if I had to choose one to keep (as of 2nd August 2017), I'd probably choose Sachsen over Vaud -- just so beautiful.
    Last edited by Yokel; 2nd August 2017 at 19:03.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickRed71 View Post
    That's an impressive collection. I rather like the Cartier but they don't get much love here. You don't see many Oysterquartz either.

    Hodinkee had a nice piece a while back on the big three of AP, PP and VC--and why they are regarded as the big three. All firms of long standing who only produce luxury items. Lange are up there in the luxury stakes but don't have the long unbroken history.

    Welcome to TZ-UK. If you want ideas for how to *invest* your money, you've come to the right place. You might find yourself soon fixated on watches you didn't know existed.


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

    Thank you -- I like the Cartier too, and (at least until this year) the Oysterquartz has been bomb-proof -- worthy rather than endearing.

    The reason I asked the question on the "big 3 (or 4)" is with reference to your last point (helping me spend my money).
    I regret to say that nothing in the current range from PP interests me much from an aesthetic point of view.
    I seem to recall that, at some point in "On Her Majesty's Secret Service", Bond uses his government issue Rolex as a knuckle duster -- a scene which seems to have been the inspiration for Royal Oak.
    Only the Patrimony from VC is remotely interesting, and that is fairly run-of-the-mill from a beauty standpoint.
    And, outside the "one", the offering from ALS is pretty bland.

    So, I'm in division 2 (and back with Swatches).
    I do think Blancpain's Villeret and Breguet's Classique are rather elegant.
    However, I should be delighted to hear about other ideas -- as you say, watches I don't know exist.

  20. #20
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    Not a WIS -- barely a WI -- so, idiot questions in search of understanding

    I may be completely off the mark, but based on your current collection (which is fantastic by the way) have you looked at Zenith? I'm particularly thinking that some of the El Primero models might appeal to you.

  21. #21
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    @Sazzle

    I do admire the El Primero, and (from what little I know) Zenith movements in general. However, whilst the chunky chronographs they make look great on the wrists of formula one drivers, I don't really see them on a more elderly "man of inaction". And, the non-chronographs from Z are much less interesting.

    As a side issue, has anyone actually used a mechanical chronograph to time anything at all in the last twenty years?



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  22. #22
    You're not the only one to prefer the GO to a Lange 1 (I have an older panolunar XL) - the big problem I have with Lange is the date window and not being in the same plane. GO just do it so much better and once seen it cannot be unseen!

    Nice collection, and as you say you still have some budget to buy something else

  23. #23
    Grand Master MartynJC (UK)'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post

    As a side issue, has anyone actually used a mechanical chronograph to time anything at all in the last twenty years?

    Sent from my iPad using TZ-UK mobile app
    Sometimes - I have the Omega Planet Ocean Chrono - which I used to time how long I'd been in the swimming pool on holiday this spring. Other times maybe the occasional egg timing. Can also be useful to keep tabs on how long you've parked your car - just set it running when you leave the car.

    Must admit that I use timers / alarms on the Brietling B55 when doing bar-b-q as I need something to warn me the burgers are in danger!

    I think you have impeccable taste and a great collection there.

    All the best

    Martyn

  24. #24
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    Not a WIS -- barely a WI -- so, idiot questions in search of understanding

    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    @Sazzle

    I do admire the El Primero, and (from what little I know) Zenith movements in general. However, whilst the chunky chronographs they make look great on the wrists of formula one drivers, I don't really see them on a more elderly "man of inaction". And, the non-chronographs from Z are much less interesting.

    As a side issue, has anyone actually used a mechanical chronograph to time anything at all in the last twenty years?



    Sent from my iPad using TZ-UK mobile app
    I wholly agree with you on the current range, but some of the now discontinued models are a little more subtle and, in my opinion, timeless. I was particularly thinking of this model:



    As for timing with a mechanical chronograph,
    my speedmaster has recently been used for timing eggs and also timing speeches at a wedding for a sweepstake!

  25. #25
    Master
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    I used to use a chrono for timing cooking and ticketed car parking but all such duties are now delegated to my smartphone.

    Sent from my SM-G920F using TZ-UK mobile app

  26. #26
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    If I may venture another (potentially) daft question.

    Despite the youth of the brand, and the parsimonious attitude to the number of jewels used, the Moritz Grossmann ATUM Pure L (blue) (http://www.chrono24.co.uk/moritzgrossmann/atum-pure-l-blue--id6189340.htm) is on my list of attractive potential next purchases.

    MG seems to distribute however substantially via Chrono24. Is this a worry? Does it mean that the normal ADs are not interested? Does it mean that the watches are not finding interested buyers? Or, am I simply being paranoid?

    If so, are the likes of Chrono24 the future of high end watch sales?

    Thanks

  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    If I may venture another (potentially) daft question.

    Despite the youth of the brand, and the parsimonious attitude to the number of jewels used, the Moritz Grossmann ATUM Pure L (blue) (http://www.chrono24.co.uk/moritzgrossmann/atum-pure-l-blue--id6189340.htm) is on my list of attractive potential next purchases.

    MG seems to distribute however substantially via Chrono24. Is this a worry? Does it mean that the normal ADs are not interested? Does it mean that the watches are not finding interested buyers? Or, am I simply being paranoid?

    If so, are the likes of Chrono24 the future of high end watch sales?

    Thanks
    MG are relatively niche and as a consequence their distribution network is limited. When I spoke to them during SalonQP last yr there is an intent to expand this further. However this all take time but it is happening.

    Distribution via the internet will get more commonplace, but I do not think the way Chrono24 goes about it is the future. Maybe something more sophisticated is the way forward and most likely directly from the manufacturer.

    The particular model you've highlighted is a really nice one - I did get some hands on time with it, I like them as a brand too. But as I said a bit niche, so it may take a hit if you want to sell it on.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazyp View Post
    MG are relatively niche and as a consequence their distribution network is limited. When I spoke to them during SalonQP last yr there is an intent to expand this further. However this all take time but it is happening.

    Distribution via the internet will get more commonplace, but I do not think the way Chrono24 goes about it is the future. Maybe something more sophisticated is the way forward and most likely directly from the manufacturer.

    The particular model you've highlighted is a really nice one - I did get some hands on time with it, I like them as a brand too. But as I said a bit niche, so it may take a hit if you want to sell it on.
    Thank you CP. Useful tip on resale value -- which was a concern inherent in my question. Haven't yet sold a watch, but you never know.

  29. #29
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    Welcome.

    You might want to add H.Moser & Cie to your list.

    No affiliation, but I was lucky enough to get my hands on an Endeavour Perpetual Calendar recently (owned by a friend and fellow TZ member) - a beautifully executed watch IMO.


    Nice jewels too :)

  30. #30
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    @DMC102

    Thank you. Moser is a new name to me, but looks gorgeous.
    This will bear investigation.

    David

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    @DMC102

    Thank you. Moser is a new name to me, but looks gorgeous.
    This will bear investigation.

    David
    If I read the blurb correctly, some of their more attractive watches are 14.5mm thick. Did the Endeavour not feel a bit clunky?

  32. #32
    Master DMC102's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    If I read the blurb correctly, some of their more attractive watches are 14.5mm thick. Did the Endeavour not feel a bit clunky?
    The Endeavour is 11.1mm high, and the Black Edition pictured just oozes an understated presence - definitely not clunky in any way!

    Like so many others, it really has to be seen for real to appreciate it properly - pictures just don't quite capture it, but there are a few of the one I mentioned, along with more details, in THIS INCOMING POST.

  33. #33
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    @DMC102

    Yes, I just read an internet review as well. Looks absolutely gorgeous.
    The 14.5mm came from the Moser website, so something must have got lost in translation.
    Given what it does, the £45k tag is probably very justified. It's just a bit more than I have left in my "kitty"!
    However, that will not stop me trying to find a place to handle one of its "little brothers" in the near future.

    Once again, thanks for the recommendation -- always good to widen horizons.



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  34. #34
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    Take a look at the Moser selection on Chrono 24 - they can be had for a lot less!

  35. #35
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    Oh dear!

    Whilst researching Moser I found Voutilainen (of whom I had also never heard). Sadly, I am clearly going to have to stay at least 50 miles distant from any of his pieces (or get myself tied to the mast).

    Back to reality. Having passed over the lovely Grosse 1 without regret for an even lovelier GO for a quarter the price, I know that horological happiness can be had for less than £10k.
    That is now my objective for any further purchases.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowman View Post
    Excellent first post!

    I assume that 17 is the 'magic' number for a three hander and anything more is only relevant on a watch with more complications?

    M

    17 Jewels is the magic number because watches with more than 17 jewels were very heavily taxed in the USA as a luxury product... I think.

  37. #37
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    Another newbie question which probably has an obvious answer that I just haven't thought of.

    Why are so many watches automatic?
    How difficult is it to wind up a watch each morning, particularly if it has a power reserve indicator? I find it quite therapeutic.
    On the other hand, I never trust that my fairly sedentary life-style is going to put enough into an automatic, and end up winding it anyway.
    Is automatic regarded as a "complication", and therefore desirable?
    Also, why doesn't the presence of an out-of-balance swinging mass attached to the movement cause wear?

    Thanks again

    David



    Sent from my iPad using TZ-UK mobile app

  38. #38
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    I think automatics started in part for diving watches, as repeatedly unscrewing the crown to wind compromised water resistance over time.

    Quite a few on here enjoy winding a watch (me included). I guess for the average person it's just more convenient. That said I have one automatic in particular that makes a lovely gentle noise like a cricket when the rotor is moving.

    I think the rotor bearing does wear. Paul and Brendan (watchmakers on here) have explained that before, I can't remember the full details but they may be along to comment.

  39. #39
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    Another question if I may.

    Gold is much "softer" than steel -- meaning it has lower tensile and bending strength, and is generally more malleable. Ergo, a steel case is presumably more structurally rigid, which, as a container for a fragile, precision mechanism, you might suppose to be a "good thing".

    What (apart from adding to the price and "exclusivity") are the advantages of using gold as a case material?

    Thanks again.

  40. #40
    Journeyman parsig9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    Another question if I may.

    Gold is much "softer" than steel -- meaning it has lower tensile and bending strength, and is generally more malleable. Ergo, a steel case is presumably more structurally rigid, which, as a container for a fragile, precision mechanism, you might suppose to be a "good thing".

    What (apart from adding to the price and "exclusivity") are the advantages of using gold as a case material?

    Thanks again.
    Well it does not corrode and deteriorate like other metals. Look at the older Rolex watches that are gold, or white gold(as I prefer) and you will see that especially the indices and dials are in better condition. Anything under the crystal will hold up better, or inside the case...

    Now bezels and lugs made of softer gold, not so much. But, because it's softer it's easier to work with and so finer detail is achieved. Perhaps not as true today with modern tech, but crafting gold is easier than crafting steel.

    I was looking at older Datejusts and always think they should put the gold content in the dial and indices rather than bezel where it takes all the hits. I want a datejust with a Damasko case.

    I am a rookie myself so correct as needed gang
    Last edited by parsig9; 5th August 2017 at 14:56.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sazzle View Post
    I wholly agree with you on the current range, but some of the now discontinued models are a little more subtle and, in my opinion, timeless. I was particularly thinking of this model:


    @ Sazzle
    Do you happen to know the model designation?

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    @ Sazzle
    Do you happen to know the model designation?
    This is the detail available on watches.co.uk (I have no affiliation with them):



    If you like that one I suggest you also have a look at the moonphase el primero which I believe has also been discontinued - it's a stunning watch:


  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by sazzle View Post
    This is the detail available on watches.co.uk (I have no affiliation with them):



    If you like that one I suggest you also have a look at the moonphase el primero which I believe has also been discontinued - it's a stunning watch:

    Thanks

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    Thank you AlfaT33 (in itself hugely desirable!!), MartynJC and Mycroft.

    I regard myself as just getting into watches (as a retirement gift to myself), so, to date, I own only four.

    These are:

    The everyday watch, given to me as a gift in the 1980s. Rolex 17000 in steel. Internet photo I'm afraid as my example is away for service (and has been for all eternity).




    After that I have bought watches only as things of beauty -- male jewelry.

    The first was my Cartier Santos quartz -- mainly because I didn't think the rather agricultural Rolex looked good with black tie. In the best traditions of slightly "aspergic" vanity, I have matching cuff-links.




    The second, I simply fell in love with in the window of Wempe in Hamburg. At the time, I thought it was the most beautiful watch I had ever seen (and still love it). It took me a week of daily visits to grind them down to a price I thought I could afford.

    Audemars Piguet "Huitième" chronograph in yellow gold.




    The story of the last is a little embarrassing. When I "retired" I promised myself another watch (my retirement involved the sale of a company). Looking around for something really elegant I was directed by Wempe in London towards the eye-wateringly expensive Lange Grosse 1, which, I had to admit was something quite special. However, when I came to actually buying, I noticed something which to my humble eye was significantly more gorgeous. You'll probably all think I am completely mad to have preferred it, but I am now the happy owner of this.



    The upside, however, is that I have quite a lot of "budget" left of other forays into small, beautiful mechanical objects!
    Oh dear -- after fully 96 days my own daily-wearer (why "beater", incidentally?) is back from service -- and looking a bit shinier than it did when I gave it to the AD.



    Trouble is, I've been wearing mostly the GO during that time, and I could barely bring myself to take it off my wrist!

    Head, or heart?

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yokel View Post
    Thank you AlfaT33 (in itself hugely desirable!!), MartynJC and Mycroft.

    I regard myself as just getting into watches (as a retirement gift to myself), so, to date, I own only four.

    These are:

    The everyday watch, given to me as a gift in the 1980s. Rolex 17000 in steel. Internet photo I'm afraid as my example is away for service (and has been for all eternity).




    After that I have bought watches only as things of beauty -- male jewelry.

    The first was my Cartier Santos quartz -- mainly because I didn't think the rather agricultural Rolex looked good with black tie. In the best traditions of slightly "aspergic" vanity, I have matching cuff-links.




    The second, I simply fell in love with in the window of Wempe in Hamburg. At the time, I thought it was the most beautiful watch I had ever seen (and still love it). It took me a week of daily visits to grind them down to a price I thought I could afford.

    Audemars Piguet "Huitième" chronograph in yellow gold.




    The story of the last is a little embarrassing. When I "retired" I promised myself another watch (my retirement involved the sale of a company). Looking around for something really elegant I was directed by Wempe in London towards the eye-wateringly expensive Lange Grosse 1, which, I had to admit was something quite special. However, when I came to actually buying, I noticed something which to my humble eye was significantly more gorgeous. You'll probably all think I am completely mad to have preferred it, but I am now the happy owner of this.



    The upside, however, is that I have quite a lot of "budget" left of other forays into small, beautiful mechanical objects!
    Just thought I'd update. Aided and abetted by members of this forum (among others, to be fair), my little collection has now increased by five:

    Having been very impressed with my first GO, I could not resist the timeless beauty of the GO Senator (and the new Kaliber 36 it comes with. I chose the simple version (sans complications).


    I also became fascinated by the historical context of the "Beobachtungsuhr". Having worked out that all of the five original manufacturers (or, at least, their names) were still in business, I decided to visit one which still produces a "B-Uhr" themed watch whilst on holiday. The people at Stowa could not have been more welcoming.


    Feeling that I would like a "diver", and returning to my beloved Glashütte Original, I bought this Sport Evolution Pano (Kaliber 39-41) on TZ-UK -- super clean deal, and was delighted. It has had a lot of wrist time -- including today.


    Staying with the diver theme, and returning to the nice people at Stowa, my first watch of 2018 was the Seatime Olymp Bronze


    And finally, the only watch I have which rivals the Panoreserve (IMHO) for interesting design, and also a very easy deal on this forum, the Zenith Captain Moon Phase


    Thanks Ladies and Gentlemen -- but, I still have three empty pillows in my watch boxes

  46. #46
    Master mycroft's Avatar
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    5 more?! You’re officially a lost cause, David

    I see your exquisite taste hasn’t deserted you...

    Simon

  47. #47
    Grand Master Andyg's Avatar
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    A super selection Sir.

    Perhaps you should have a look at some of JLC's offerings and maintaining the German theme, perhaps a Hanhart (as worn by steve McQueen).

    Failing that why not a Rolex Daydate (in White gold) or perhaps a Skydweller. But don't buy them new. Secondhand they will never cost you a lot to own and are both pretty definitive references.

    Whoever does not know how to hit the nail on the head should be asked not to hit it at all.
    Friedrich Nietzsche


  48. #48
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    This was a super-helpful post! Thanks

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by mycroft View Post
    5 more?! You’re officially a lost cause, David
    I'm afraid you may be right, Simon.

    Quote Originally Posted by mycroft View Post
    I see your exquisite taste hasn’t deserted you...
    Thanks for the compliment

    David

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyg View Post
    Perhaps you should have a look at some of JLC's offerings and maintaining the German theme, perhaps a Hanhart (as worn by steve McQueen).

    Failing that why not a Rolex Daydate (in White gold) or perhaps a Skydweller. But don't buy them new. Secondhand they will never cost you a lot to own and are both pretty definitive references.
    Thanks Andy -- good points.

    I'm afraid I'm a bit snobbish about owning anything that everybody in the pub and his uncle has (or, failing that, recognises and wants) -- so am not keen on anything from Rolex or Omega. [Though, having said that, if it came cyclops-free and with a display back, I could be quite tempted by an Explorer II!]

    I certainly need to look at JLC more closely. And possibly at Hanhart and Dornblüth -- and Moser and Moritz Grossmann! I also think I might "need" a Bathyscaphe in black ceramic.

    Decisions . . . . . .

    Resale value is of lesser interest (except, possibly, to my children ) as I've never sold a watch and do not intend to.

    Thanks again

    David

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