closing tag is in template navbar
timefactors watches



TZ-UK Fundraiser
Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Service of Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1206 Dual Time

  1. #1
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Torquay, Devon. Great place to work and relax. Love flying and lots of great sea walks.
    Posts
    2,551

    Service of Vacheron Constantin Calibre 1206 Dual Time

    The watch is an 18k platinum 14 year old 1206 based on the Frédéric Piguet calibre 1500 and belongs to a London Stockbroker.
    He told me it had lain in a drawer for a few years and having come across my website decided to have it working again.
    We struck a deal on the repair cost and the watch arrived here via RMSD.





    Even after nearly 50 years repairing watches, I always feel nervous taking on such beautiful watches for service.
    Some of the more exclusive brands such as FP Journe can be complex even to open the cases. I had to make a case opening tool for the FPJ as it had two tiny holes in the top of it's case screws instead of a normal slot !

    (Having said the above, it is probably the unusual which has kept me addicted to repairing watches for so long).

    So the first thing was to examine the VC for such a possibility.
    There turned out to be a groove in the bezel for it's removal with a watchmakers pen knife, not a screw off bezel as I had anticipated.
    The front flipped off like a dream. Perfect fit.

    ...and the back was a doddle to remove being held on with six platinum screws. But with a weird shaped gasket.

    I was a little surprised however that the front bezel was not a screw on or held on with screws since I'm not convinced that snap on bezels, even with a gasket, offer much water resistance even if they are a tight fit. Lots of water test failures with similar Blancpain gold cases when I worked there in the 90's.

    The customer remarked that he could only set the hands in a clockwise direction which I thought might mean a loose crown.
    It turned out to be wear in the teeth of the clutch wheel caused by a careless previous service he had done some 10 years before in Singapore.
    That repairer had left out one of the tiny screws holding the set lever spring, which allowed the winding wheels to move out of engagement with the hour and minute setting wheels.
    Turned out the previous repairer had also lost one of the two tiny pallet cock screws which happens to be identical to the missing set lever spring screw.
    ...and oiled the pallet lever pivots...grrr...

    Fortunately a new clutch wheel was available which saved asking my engineer to make one.





    Dismantling turned out to be straightforward too and all the parts were placed in the baskets of my unforgiving Fuji Automatic ultrasonic cleaning machine. With thermionic valves too !!
    I've got to say that this 60's Fuji is the best cleaning machine I have ever used. It cleans absolutely perfectly and watches come out sterile and sparkling. Retro for the fashion conscious too !!

    It has never gone wrong in nearly 50 years, unlike those incredibly expensive and temperamental Swiss ones.

    You will notice that this watch has twin mainsprings. This renders the power force more constant. Hence a better overall rate.

    In essence a cheap substitute for the fusee.





    Next job was to polish the case. The case back has a cover to protect the inner back bezel through which glass the movement can be observed.
    Polishing took quite a while since platinum can be quite hard. It was harder than polishing SS actually.







    Reassembly was pretty straightforward too and all components lubricated as required.

    One thing the watch repairer has to be careful of is fitting the three rotor retaining screws.
    They are very tiny and it is easy to drop one into the movement.
    Once that did happen to me and the screw was quickly carried away under the train bridge, stopping the watch.
    I had to dismantle all of the top plates to retrieve it !
    I now cover the movement with polythene leaving a small hole above the rotor screw holes so that won't happen.

    Next was to time the watch and hope for a reasonable rate and amplitude.



    I was well chuffed with the above rate.

    Original rate was amplitude 260. 1.6ms beat and a varying loss of 15-25 seconds per day.

    The VC is now back with it's owner who last week emailed me to say that he had forgotten what a lovely watch it is.

    Here's my dual time. Set for New York and UK. 50p at the car boot:



    It truly was a pleasure working on the VC.
    No issues and no headaches.

    Apologies if the photos/editing are a bit mixed. I'm making this post via my phone to save using irritating 'Photobucket' to upload photos.

    Brendan.
    Last edited by Webwatchmaker; 24th June 2017 at 09:23.

  2. #2
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Torquay, Devon. Great place to work and relax. Love flying and lots of great sea walks.
    Posts
    2,551
    Sent from my SM-G900F using TZ-UK mobile app[/QUOTE]


    Sent from my SM-G900F using TZ-UK mobile app
    Last edited by Webwatchmaker; 24th June 2017 at 07:48.

  3. #3
    Master Wolfie's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    7,110
    Blog Entries
    1
    There's been a few complicated watches from the 'big 3' that I've seen and not been overly fussed about, however, this is quite wonderful!

  4. #4
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Torquay, Devon. Great place to work and relax. Love flying and lots of great sea walks.
    Posts
    2,551
    Here it is...

    Sent from my SM-G900F using TZ-UK mobile app

  5. #5
    Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Sussex, UK
    Posts
    5,128
    A great read , and a fine watch. What are we going to do when you eventually down tools Brendan? There are so few true craftsmen left.
    The 70s Zenith you fixed for us is going great guns. It's my partners favourite, above modern Rolex and Cartier models she owns.

  6. #6
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Location
    durham
    Posts
    277
    Excellent to read and,as always,most informative.
    Thank you very much for the time and trouble taken to post the details of this watch service.

  7. #7
    Craftsman ILoveWatches's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    310
    Great job! Thanks for sharing your work. It's always a pleasure to read Watchmakers reports.

  8. #8
    Banned
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Torquay, Devon. Great place to work and relax. Love flying and lots of great sea walks.
    Posts
    2,551
    Quote Originally Posted by paskinner View Post
    A great read , and a fine watch. What are we going to do when you eventually down tools Brendan? There are so few true craftsmen left.
    The 70s Zenith you fixed for us is going great guns. It's my partners favourite, above modern Rolex and Cartier models she owns.
    Thanks for your comments.
    I'll keep going til I peg it...!!

    Sent from my SM-G900F using TZ-UK mobile app

  9. #9
    Good read again.

    I like these sort of threads, they give an insight into a craftsman world.




    Mitch

  10. #10
    Grand Master MartynJC (UK)'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Somewhere else
    Posts
    12,361
    Blog Entries
    22
    Great read Brendan. Your service is exemplary - unlike some manufacturers I have been in correspondence with (you know who I mean). I really hope you're still in business for next 5 years or take on an apprentice??

    Martyn.

  11. #11
    Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Leicester
    Posts
    1,129
    Fascinating read. Like most I suspect, I lack the expertise/skill and dexterity required to do this job but love to see such images. Thanks for posting Brendan.

    Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using TZ-UK mobile app

  12. #12
    Craftsman japester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Blackpool, Lancashire
    Posts
    490
    Great write up Brendan. Love seeing your work. Top class!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Do Not Sell My Personal Information