It’s about 18 months since my first (and only) SOTC, so it seemed an opportune moment to offer up a new State of The Collection - particularly since it has changed rather more than I expected it to when I last discussed it a year and a half ago!
At the time I posted my previous SOTC, I commented that I felt I now had more idea of what my ‘end game’ looked like. I now think I’m quite close to that place – a situation that I actually find strangely unsettling…
So first of all, here’s a group photo of my collection – which for the first time in many years fits into a single 12-watch box!
Top Row, Left to Right
1) Steinhart 103-0663 Ocean 44 (2012)
2) Doxa SUB 1500t Professional Limited Edition (2017)
3) Maranez Layan Limited Edition (2013)
4) Bulova 96B251 ‘Moonwatch’ Chronograph Special Edition (2016)
5) Steinhart 105-0338 Marine Chronometer II (2011)
6) Seiko SRPA21K1 Prospex PADI ‘Turtle’ Special Edition (2016)
Bottom Row, Left to Right
7) Panerai PAM00156 Luminor GMT Regatta Limited Edition (2002)
8) Lüm-Tec M50 PVD Limited Edition (2011)
9) Breitling Navitimer World (2015)
10) Breitling Avenger Skyland (2013)
11) Breitling Avenger Seawolf II (2014)
12) Omega Genève Dynamic (1972)
I’ve realised that there are several ‘themes’ that have motivated my evolving collection and shaped what I currently own. One of those themes is colour – I like to have watches that offer me a variety of colour options (as well as case materials). Specifically, I decided that my ideal collection would feature one of each of the following:
Black dial........‘Best’..............................Sk yland and Panerai (oops, that’s 2!)
Black dial........‘Day-to-Day'...................Bulova
Black dial........‘Holidays/Swimming’........Ocean 44
Blue dial.........‘Best’.............................Na vitimer
Blue dial.........‘Day-to-Day’...................Seiko PADI and Omega (oops, that’s 2 as well!)
White dial........Anything.......................Marine Chronometer II
Yellow dial.......Anything.......................Seawolf
Orange dial......Anything.......................Doxa SUB
Brown dial.......‘Day-to-Day/Beater’........Maranez
Grey dial.........‘Day-to-Day’..................?
PVD case........‘Day-to-Day’...................Lüm-Tec
Brass case......‘Day-to-Day’...................Maranez again
Titanium case..Anything.......................?
See what I mean about an approaching end game? My most recent upgrade to the collection was selling my orange-dialled Orient Mako XL (plus a bunch of others) to fund the purchase of the Doxa – a long-held ambition.
I could argue that based on my ‘ideal collection formula’ above, my only missing piece is something in titanium with a grey dial… I used to own a grey-dial Breitling Aerospace Avantage that I hoped might work out – but I really couldn’t get on with it at all so it went. Then I bought a Certina DS Action in titanium with a grey dial, but that also went to help pay for the Doxa (and I didn’t warm to it as much as I‘d hoped I would, to be honest).
The obvious functional duplication is that I own two watches that I would categorise as ‘best black’ – the Skyland Avenger and the Panerai. I really don’t want to dispose of either of them, though, so as it stands they’re both staying. If I really needed money then I guess the 156 is the one I’d have to let go, pragmatically.
The Omega might be a functional duplication, but it’s in the collection for different reasons – it’s the watch my parents bought me for my 21st birthday and it’s recently been the subject of a complete rebuild and refurbishment to as-new condition. Understandably, I will never sell it and I’m now wearing it more since it was rejuvenated.
This brings me on to the second theme running through my collection – I have recognised that my clear preference is for watches of between 44mm and 46mm in diameter. This can be seen by the fact that all of them fit into those parameters with the sole exception of the Omega. I’ve tried smaller watches, I really have, but I just end up getting rid of them as they don’t feel right…
Looking at the list above I’ve realised that there seems to be a third theme going on – 6 of the 12 are either limited or special editions. I’m not sure that has ever been a conscious thing, but I do rather like the idea that there aren’t zillions of all my watches out there. The ultimate for that is obviously the Panerai – only 300 of those in circulation (assuming they’ve all survived)!
Except for the Omega, all of them are full sets, too.
So, in the same order as in the box, here are the watches individually…
Steinhart 103-0663 Ocean 44 (2012)
This is a not-very-subtle homage to the DSSD, albeit with the novelty of a sapphire crystal bezel (the current model has changed to a ceramic bezel insert). What I like about it is the build quality, the timekeeping, the bracelet and the general no-nonsense air it carries; oh, and the excellent value for money. I bought it primarily as my principal holiday watch, and it does sterling service in that role every year in swimming pools, on beaches and in restaurants & bars. Although I like the bracelet I tend to wear it on this very comfortable generic rubber strap.
Doxa SUB 1500t Professional Limited Edition (2017)
I’ve always wanted one of these as my ultimate orange-dialled watch – it arrived a couple of weeks ago. The buying experience was extremely frustrating since immediately after I ordered it through Jura Watches, Doxa announced that they had problems sourcing movements and therefore couldn’t honour the delivery date. I chose to wait, but I placed the order back in January and it’s only just arrived. My first impressions are that the wait was worth it: it’s beautifully made, very striking in appearance and really comfortable to wear; oh, and it’s one of 5,000. As an iconic design, there’s nothing else quite like it. This one will stay on the (fantastic modern interpretation of a BOR) bracelet, I think…
Maranez Layan Limited Edition (2013)
All through 2012 there was much talk about bronze and brass watches, particularly surrounding the fiasco of Magrette’s bronze watches that turned out to be brass. Ironically I really liked the look of the brass ones, didn’t want to spend a lot of money on bronze and then discovered the Maranez Layan. I bought it new, and when it arrived I sourced (through Sales Corner) and fitted a handmade Jabba Phantom brown leather strap with a sewn-in Pre-V heat-treated buckle. This is the closest I have to a beater, it’s patinated nicely (and naturally) and is one of just 50 with the brown Arabic dials. The only slight shame is that the crown is steel, not brass, but I’ve got used to it.
Bulova 96B251 ‘Moonwatch’ Chronograph Special Edition (2016)
The release of the Bulova Moonwatch tribute was heavily trailered during last year, and I was very struck by how good looking a watch it was. The size was right, the specification was interesting and when a really tempting online price came up from H.S.Johnson I took the plunge. What a great watch – handsome, comfortable and of course a high-performance quartz movement (my only quartz, in fact). I bought it on strap as I don’t think it looks ‘right’ on the bracelet, and although I like the carbon fibre-look leather strap, it now lives on a black Watch Gecko canvas strap that really suits it.
Steinhart 105-0338 Marine Chronometer II (2011)
About 4 years ago I was looking around for a white dialled watch, and this came up on Sales Corner. I wasn’t at all sure that it was my thing (it’s easy to see that I lean heavily towards divers) but I went ahead and bought it anyway. This was my first Steinhart and I love this one – it’s probably as close as I’ll ever get to a dress watch (i.e. not very close!). The white dial is beautiful, I really enjoy the manual winding (and the crown is nice to use) and as with the Ocean 44 it runs to within 3 seconds per day. It arrived on a bright blue Rios leather strap, but now lives on a tan alligator-pattern BOB leather strap. The original Steinhart leather strap remains unused as I don’t get on with deployants.
Seiko SRPA21K1 Prospex PADI ‘Turtle’ Special Edition (2016)
This was the other ‘special edition’ (alongside the Bulova) that received a lot of forum attention prior to its release last year. Fortunately for me it came out just around the time that I recognised that I really wanted an ‘every day’ blue dialled watch. I liked the look of it - particularly the case shape and the beautiful dial colour - and as a ‘step up’ from the SKX009 (a watch I sold some years ago), I thought it would work well. To be honest it has exceeded my expectations; lovely case, great colours on both the dial and the bezel, robust and accurate movement. The bracelet is very high quality but I’ve never used it – instead I put it on a dark blue ISOfrane that I think complements it very well.
Panerai PAM00156 Luminor GMT Regatta Limited Edition (2002)
I wasn’t going to buy this… no really, I wasn’t… but then I did anyway! I’ve really wanted a Panerai for a long time, I had money sitting in the bank and started idly looking around at what was available. That’s always fatal isn’t it… First I thought I wanted a white-dialled (yes, I know most people hate them!) PAM00114, then I really liked the look of the PAM00088 GMT, then this one came up on Sales Corner and I totally fell for it. I drove up to Cambridge for a face-to-face, and it was every bit as beautiful as I had hoped. For a 15-year old watch it’s in phenomenal condition, and the timekeeping is still within COSC – which I think is pretty impressive. It’s an absolutely full set, and of course it’s one of just 300, so a genuine rarity. It’s not a ‘safe queen’, I wear it in rotation with all the others and it’s been on Panerai rubber, a BOB tan alligator-pattern strap and a BOB black alligator-pattern strap at various times since I bought it.
Lüm-Tec M50 PVD Limited Edition (2011)
This is my most recent acquisition apart from the Doxa. In early March this year I recognised that my old PVD Military Mark V (cheap ‘Panerai’ lookey-likey) was not what I wanted to keep, and I started to look around for a higher quality PVD watch to replace it. After starting a thread on Watch Talk to canvas suggestions, a kind member pointed me towards a sales thread for this Lüm-Tec. I met Glenn (what a gent!) for a face-to-face the following day. At 44mm diameter but quite slim, this is a lovely watch in virtually unmarked condition that came with a PVD bracelet, a Lüm-Tec orange leather strap that matches the lume exactly and the Lüm-Tec rubber strap you see in the photo below.
Breitling Navitimer World (2015)
I sold my Omega Speedmaster Professional Gemini IV to raise some of the money to buy this new, a watch that I had wanted for a long time. At 46mm in diameter it’s certainly not a watch you miss, but I absolutely love it – the complexity, the dial colour, the ‘Valjoux rotor wobble’… obviously the Navitimer is an iconic watch, and for me this is the perfect version, even though many aficionados will maintain that the in-house movement is the one to have. It came on the blue calfskin leather strap seen below, but I also (controversially!) sometimes wear it on a blue Brady sailcloth strap that I feel really works with the dial colour.
Breitling Avenger Skyland (2013)
For me Navitimers and Avengers are definitive Breitling designs and I count myself very fortunate to own both. After the fiasco of my initial Breitling ownership (I bought a Superocean Steelfish XL that eventually turned out to be a fake), this was my next purchase and I love it. The white stencilled Arabic numerals work so well against the black dial and certainly counter any ‘bling’ accusations that are sometimes levelled against Breitlings. If I had to sell everything and keep just one watch I think this might be it. For the whole time I’ve owned it I’ve worn it on a Pro II rubber strap, but I’ve just put it on a new Pro III that has really given it a new lease of life.
Breitling Avenger Seawolf II (2014)
I’d always wanted a yellow-dialled Breitling, so when this was advertised on Sales Corner (just 2 weeks old and at a substantial saving), I met the seller for a face-to-face and bought it. Some people wonder if you can get enough use out of a watch like this, but in my case I wear it in any situations – including at times with a suit. It features the same stencilled numbers as the Skyland and the entire dial is either silver or yellow. This has been on the bracelet from new and I intend to leave it there.
Omega Genève Dynamic (1972)
In 1976 I celebrated my 21st birthday. My parents decided to buy me a watch and asked me what I wanted… this is what I chose. Recently I’ve discovered that the watch was actually manufactured in 1972 – meaning that my folks actually bought a NOS watch without realising! For many years, this has lain in a watch box, battered, neglected, unloved and unworn. I recently decided to rejuvenate it, and it went off to the amazing Paul Walker who rebuilt it, refurbished it and effectively returned it to as-new condition (remember, this is a 45-year-old watch!). Against his wishes (Paul is a purist) I asked him to put it on a model-specific generic steel bracelet instead of the Omega leather strap, as I thought a little more ‘heft’ would persuade me to wear it more. This has proved the right thing to do (for me at least!), as I’m now happily wearing it again in rotation.
So that’s it. I realise that this has been a monster read and my thanks to anyone who has had the stamina to get to the end of it! I will probably never write such a detailed SOTC again, but as my collection reaches a state of relative maturity (I think!), I wanted to reflect on it at some length – self-indulgent, I know. I hope you’ve enjoyed it.
Simon
Last edited by mycroft; 16th June 2017 at 15:12.
Great collection there, nice and diverse. As a fellow owner of the fabulous Steinhart Marine Chronometer II (Roman in my case) it does make you wonder why a nicely finished Unitas 6498 based watch like this is £300 and Panerai can charge £8000. I know the Panerai is modified quite a bit, but just goes to show how much of a bargain the Steinharts are (especially at +/-3 per day!).
M.
I love when high end collections have steinhart in them. Mines the same . Gorgeous collection bud.
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Thanks a lot, I'm glad you like it.Originally Posted by mjgerrard
You're right, the Steinharts certainly seem to punch above their weight. The timekeeping of my two was a pleasant surprise,. I must say...
Cheers Rusty!
Simon
I really enjoyed that read. What a magnificent collection. Stand outs for me are the Doxa (an unscratched itch) and the Avengers (warming to them a lot since joining this forum).
Thanks Fordy - it's nice to see my collection described as 'magnificent', I must say :)
Apparently Doxa have been having problems with supply of the A10 movements, which is why a quoted delivery of 2 weeks turned into 4 and a half months! It was worth it though - it's a fabulous watch. Some people knock the new ones and idolise the old ones, personally I think this one is faithful to the originals and beautifully built.
Simon
That's a very good spread of styles, dial colours and movements. I've got a sort of similar spread in my 8 watches (11 if I include my G10s), it's like new watch day every 2 to 3 weeks in the rotation!
F.T.F.A.
Lovely collection and excellent write up.Thanks.
It's a BIG word for BIG things that are great. I thought it was appropriate
Just noticed the 12-slot watch box. Cunning.
A most enjoyable read Simon and a lovely collection. I love the Panerai. I hadn't heard of Steinhart until joined this forum, now I own one and love it. I put it on a generic rubber strap and wear it for jobs around the house and holidays where I want something that will not attract attention and cope with the rough and tumble of pools/beach etc. Thanks for writing that up.
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Nice collection. That Skyland is really nice. It's now on my radar
A really nice collection there. I think the Doxa is my favourite with the seawolf coming in a close second.
I think you need a new watch box though, they look a little cramped.
Not cunning, just what I had. I used to have two...It's a BIG word for BIG things that are great. I thought it was appropriate
Just noticed the 12-slot watch box. Cunning.
The Ocean 44 is pretty bulletproof. Mine is still basically completely unmarked...
As I said, if I was forced to sell up I still think the Skyland would be the 'last man standing'. Mine is a purchase from Sales Corner here (as was the Panerai, the Lum-Tec and the Marine Chronometer)
Aha, I can see you share my love of colour! This is the first time in 12 years that I've been able to get my collection into one watch box... I peaked at 25...
Simon
Simon, what a post. A terrific, thoughtful and fascinating read. It's a collection I genuinely admire as it's thoroughly atypical and yet hugely tasteful. My particular favourites are that killer Pam -which of course I've had the pleasure to see in the metal - and the Doxa. And of course my ex- Lum Tec! (Thanks for the kind mention). And the Breitlings actually..and...well... I could go on and name them all frankly.
Many congrats and thanks for sharing.
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Very nice collection. I particularly like the doxa :)
That Steinhart is is nice.
I can relate to the collecting by colour, and the need to always have an orange watch!
Great variety, and a real result with the Omega Dynamic.
Thanks for sharing.
Another nice collection well done
Nice collection, Love the Dynamic!
Being a big fan of 70s watches, the Dynamic gets my vote. I love on that bracelet too.
So wish I could find a Panerai that suits me - with my snall wrist I always think they look better on someone else
Thank you Glenn, I'm so glad you enjoyed reading it. Knowing your own excellent tastes I'm chuffed that you think my collection is 'hugely tasteful'!
I'd forgotten that I was wearing the 156 when we met.
I hope all is now well with you.
Simon
Thank you. I'm pleased that there's so much love for the Doxa - it's a watch I've been wanting to own for a long time and in some ways it felt as if buying it completed the collection. It certainly hasn't disappointed - even though modern Doxas sometimes seem to get a rough press...
Simon
Oh thank God, I thought I was the only weirdo with the colour thing!
Re. the Omega... Paul Walker is a complete genius and I cannot recommend him highly enough. The photo I've put in my OP of the Dynamic actually doesn't do it justice.
Simon
Stunning collection, glad you finally got the doxa, the orient is safe and still one of my favorites! Saving for my own Navitimer, fancying a gmt, one day!
Great post Simon,
Andy.
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Very nice group and would wear all of them with pleasure. Well almost all of them. Can't feel anything for the LumTec and the Pepsi Seiko. Love that funky Omega.
A lovely collection you've acquired there, well done.
The Avenger Seawolf is, for me, the best piece and there's probably one floating around on my radar at some point in the future.
That's right Andy, when I sold you the Orient my expectation was that the Doxa would be along imminently! Didn't quite work out that way but I got there in the end...
Simon
I reckon a 10 out of 12 rating from the man with one of the most extensive collections on the forum is a real result, Raj!
Many thanks.
Simon
A lovely, varied collection thanks for showing. Like most here I like the Doxa but I really love the Omega Geneve Dynamic. It just oozes retro chic. The fact that it has such a story attached just adds to its significance. Congrats on the collection.
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Nice collection but the proximity of the watches to each other is giving me cause for perturbation. Can you get a box with bigger slots?
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
I'm glad you like it.
It's interesting that the Doxa -a brand that doesn't get a lot of airtime on the forum - has attracted so much attention. Maybe I should start a Doxa Appreciation thread and see what we can flush out!
Thank you for the comments about the Omega, too. Putting it on a bracelet has made a watch that is really too small for my tastes more accessible to me. I'm very fortunate that at 62 both of my parents are still alive and well - but it will always be a memento of them for me.
Simon
Hi Simon
FWIW, I really like vintage Omega, and yours is a lovely example; much more so than some of the enormous watches that they make nowadays, this is possibly because I am too weedy to wear a PO.
Anyway, as for Doxa. I am no expert but the brand seems to polarise people quite a lot. Could make for an interesting thread.
Best wishes
Gary
Nice varied collection... it's always nice to hit on a SOTC thread and to view something that doesn't have a line up of the 'usual suspects'
the Omega is a cracker...
This did make me chuckle. I actually share your angst about watches knocking together and collecting dings. The box has been 'customised' to the extent that I threw out all the 'barrel' inserts and bought a load of cushions to replace them. It allows me to stagger the watches as you can see and the cushions hold them very firmly so they don't move around. So they're not touching but they are fairly close!
Simon
I like the Doxa, though for me they're too expensive for what they are. The Omega is also very cool. Given what you don't have in the collection, I'm surprised by the two near-identical Breitlings!
No Rolex makes this a highly unusual collection by TZ standards...
Cracking collection :D
That Doxa is something else, definitely one for the future :yes:
It just do happens I'm wearing my Ocean 44 today, great watches. Agree whole heartedly with an earlier post with how good they are - my one little grumble is the date change when changing it. It feels ever so slightly loose if that makes sense?
Great collection - I can't remember seeing 12 watches cover so many bases!
I also found my OVM punch well above its weight. I love tge Doxa, but first me the stand out piece is the Omega : really nice history and it looks stunning - enjoy!
With regards to the Doxa, whilst I respect your opinion I wonder if you've had the opportunity to handle one of the new ones? The spec is extremely good and the build quality is immense - I'd put it at Breitlings' level without a doubt.
Re. the two Avengers, I take your point... the truth is that I just love them, and the opportunity to own a black-dialled chrono on a rubber strap and a yellow-dialled three-hander on the steel bracelet was not one I could pass up (and when you describe them like that they don't sound nearly so identical, do they?!)
...and finally of course we come to the 'elephant in the room'! I wondered how long it would take someone to mention the fact that I have what I hope appears to be a fairly carefully curated collection... and there isn't a single Rolex in there! I suspect that's why croftrock described it as "atypical" and Wolfie said it was "not a line-up of the usual suspects". There are 3 reasons why this is the case...
Firstly, since I stick to watches between 44mm and 46mm, the only two Rolex models that fit in that bracket are the YM II and the DSSD. I dislike the Yachtmaster, and I don't like the DSSD enough to part with £9k list for a new one (or £7k for a 6-year-old used one).
Secondly I don't have £7k-£9k spare anyway.
Thirdly, I would be able to afford a DSSD only if I liquidated several of the above-mentioned 'carefully curated collection', and I simply don't want to.
So... no Rolex.
Simon
Thank you Jon. It appears that either 12 or 13 is what it takes to cover all the bases I want to
Simon
Love the Avenger Skykand, would really like one at some point. Awesome collection, something for all occasions!
Ryan
Great set of watches!
Thanks Ryan, I guess 'something for every occasion' is exactly what I was aiming for.
Simon
Thank you!
Simon
Very nice and varied and colourful SOTC you have there Simon
My personal favourites are the Seawolf and the Doxa. Good story about the Omega Geneve Dynamic and glad to hear it still gets a lot of wrist time considering your preference for large watches.
I too have 12 watches in my collection, as you say it's good to wear a different one every couple of weeks or so! Your ideal list totals 13 watches but of course you could still use your existing watch box as one watch would always be on your wrist
Thanks for posting
Mark
Yes I do have room for one more - I just don't have the money!
If I was to fill the gap for a grey-dialled watch, in a perfect world it would be with a Grey Side of the Moon, but that ain't happening any time soon...
Simon
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