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Thread: PAMtastic!

  1. #1
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    PAMtastic!

    I’ve gone through a slightly strange period of change with my watches of late, which I had actually thought that I was very happy with save that I had a few too many (I get quite uncomfortable when the number hits double figures, which probably suggests that I'm not really a collector). Firstly, I acquired a Fifty Fathoms that I had no real inclination to buy until I tried it on one day over a beer. Secondly, I bought a rather lovely two-tone diver (yes, really) that I sadly had to return as it needed to have a small fault rectified; and lastly, I sold four of my watches to make room for the two mentioned above. I therefore had something of a void that I tried my best not to fill, but I fell embarrassingly short in the will power department.

    The watch that filled that void – completely unexpectedly – was another Panerai. I say another as I’ve owned a 233, 268, 380 and 337 in the past, and I have to admit I’m a bit of a fan. In fact, the 337 was probably a perfect watch for me in terms of both size and adaptability, but it was that adaptability (whilst not really being one thing nor the other) that proved to be its undoing. Once it had gone I knew that I’d miss having a Radiomir in the collection so I suppose there was some method to my madness in buying its successor – the slightly larger 346. In fact, they’re very, very different watches.

    Firstly, then, the interesting bits excluding the movement. The 346 is a gorgeous mixture of materials, textures and colours, all brought together in a 45mm package (with the Radiomir’s small “wire” lugs, though, so eminently wearable even on my sub-7” wrist). The case is made from titanium with a brushed finish. It’s relatively deep (more on that in a minute) and is topped off with a polished titanium bezel. The caseback incorporates a sapphire window to view the movement, and whilst I admit to being a fan of the Radiomir generally I do think the finish - and finished product - in this instance is genuinely beautiful.

    Note: as an aside, this is what Panerai say about titanium on their website: “Light, strong and hypoallergenic, the remarkable physical, mechanical and corrosion-resistant qualities of titanium have made this metal one of the most valued in fine watchmaking, as well as a material of choice for the military, aeronautical and aerospace industries. From the engineering viewpoint, its lightness makes it an exceptional material: titanium has the same strength as steel but is 40% lighter.

    Titanium is impervious to corrosion by salt water or the marine environment and it has exceptional resistance to a wide range of acids, alkalis, natural waters and industrial chemical products. Although in nature it is the ninth most abundant element, and, after aluminium and iron, the third most common metal used in mechanical applications, titanium is found only in the form of oxides, hence the difficulty of refining the raw material and its consequent prestige.”

    The goodness doesn’t stop there, however, because the dial and hands are also a bit special on the 346. The former is the Panerai “tobacco” brown, with the lume in the sandwich green as opposed to faux vintage (shame, that, IMO, as the latter would work beautifully on this watch). However, the hands are 18kt rose gold, and when the light hits them they’re nothing short of spectacular. There’s a sub-dial at 9 for running seconds and a date with inverted cyplops at 3; however, you won’t find a power reserve indicator anywhere on the dial, unlike my old 268 that was otherwise very similar in terms of style and functions.

    Now, just a word about the strap that the 346 comes with. It’s lovely, don’t get me wrong – dark brown alligator, 27/22 with a brushed pre-V buckle. However, I wanted a less formal look and have therefore added a lightish brown Assolutemante as well. These are quite simply the best straps I’ve worn in terms of both comfort and looks, but aside from that I’ve opted for a 27/20 taper; this really does work if you don’t have a huge wrist, for two reasons. Firstly, it just gives the whole package a slightly more streamlined and elegant look; and secondly, because a pre-V buckle in 20mm as actually a fair bit less obtrusive than the equivalent buckle in 22mm.

    Inside the case there’s yet more of interest, as the 346 is powered by the manufacture calibre P.2002/9 movement, executed entirely by Panerai. The key details are as follows:

    • Hand-wound mechanical movement
    • 13¾ lignes, 8.2 mm thick, 23 jewels, 247 components
    • Glucydur® balance
    • 28,800 alternations/hour
    • Kif-Parechoc® anti-shock device
    • 8 days power reserve provided by three barrels
    • Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, power reserve indicator, seconds reset, rapid set hour hand

    The P.2002 is the progenitor of the P.2000 series and it takes its name from the year in which the project was launched to supply Panerai watches with movements entirely designed and developed at the Manufacture in Neuchâtel. The P.2002/9 calibre consists of 247 components; it has 23 jewels and a thickness of 8.2 millimetres. Hand-wound and with a power reserve of 8 days with linear indicator on the rear of the movement (which I far prefer to seeing it on the dial itself), it has many of the key characteristics peculiar to all the calibres of the P.2000 series: three spring barrels; seconds reset device; rapid adjustment of local time; free-sprung balance; and balance wheel oscillating at 28,800 alternations per hour.

    The three spring barrels in series, the design of which is the subject of a Panerai patent, apparently ensures the delivery of an even, optimal force which remains stable and constant for the full 8 days of the power reserve. The operation of the seconds reset system is also unique to Panerai, it seems, although I don't have the knowledge to draw comparison with other examples.

    There you have it, then. It may be quite apparent that I really do like this watch a lot, but then I really do like Radiomirs in general a lot so there’s no real surprise there. I do think the 346 is a bit special, though, and hopefully a sense of that comes across in these photos (apologies, by the way, but I don't yet have a polarising filter for my new camera gear, so I had no way of cutting out the glare from my lights).







    Last edited by learningtofly; 11th September 2016 at 10:53.

  2. #2
    Master
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    Lovely thing!

  3. #3
    Craftsman
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    That is a stunning watch........it would be the ONE........I would never need to wear anything ever again.........

    Great post and photos.

  4. #4
    Great post and nice pics

  5. #5
    Master westy's Avatar
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    As ever, thanks for taking the time to post and take the photo's.
    'Tis a lovely thing indeed...

  6. #6
    Nothing beats the radiomirs with wire lugs. I find 45mm the best the 47mm ones just end up absolutely massive. My 190 has become a firm favourite. I actually prefer my Rads on a slightly more dressy strap - I'm actually picking up one from JR this week. Cannot wait!

    Congrats Tony, it's a beauty!

  7. #7
    Master
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    Very nice, and nice pictures. Hope that you are comfortable with the 45mm.

  8. #8
    Grand Master Chris_in_the_UK's Avatar
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    Very nice Tony - like that a lot, great rationale in the OP.
    When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........

  9. #9
    Fantastic! 8 day Rad, rose gold hands - what's not to like. great pics too. Congrats

  10. #10
    Master
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    Nice to see a rather diff looking PAM then the usual. I also like the wire lugs

  11. #11
    Craftsman tanatron's Avatar
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    As others have said, fantastic watch and pictures!
    I never had a PAM but for some reason the last few months I find myself looking at the Panerai section of online stores.

  12. #12
    Grand Master JasonM's Avatar
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    Nice one Tony, looks great.
    Cheers..
    Jase

  13. #13
    Splendid, Tony.

  14. #14
    Master
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    Oh I love the look of that one, a fine choice indeed.

  15. #15
    Master
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    Titanium, tobacco dial and gold hands are an amazing combination. I never thought I would like the look of a Radiomir so much. Can't help but think that a black nubuck alligator (I.e JV) would look awesome on this watch.

    Great choice Tony, feel free to post as many pics of it as you like.

    Steve.

  16. #16
    I am generally not a lover of Panerais, or of over large watches, but that is an excellent review Tony. Many thanks for making the effort and conveying your enthusiasm for this particular piece.

  17. #17
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments as I know Panerais are not everyone's cuppa; Radiomirs too, for that matter, although for me they're the "real" Panerais.

    Steve, I'll think about the black strap option, although I have to say that it's not something I'd have considered without prompting.

  18. #18
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    Size, weight, mixture of finishes, stunning (sandwich) dial colour, those hands (!) and an 8 day movement.

    The perfect Radomir for me.

    As for the strap, the assolutemante works exceptionally well, as this for me is a casual watch, which doesn’t work if ‘dressed up’.

  19. #19
    Craftsman
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    +1 on the photos and review Tony. In fact they made me look at the Panerai website for the first time. I have just never found them very appealing until your I saw your photos.

    Sent from my XT1580 using Tapatalk

  20. #20
    Master
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    Lovely watch Tony, particularly like the contrast with the brushed titanium bezel and the rest of the case. I'm still hoping to trade my 183 up to a 190 at some point in the future.

  21. #21

    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Thanks guys, I really appreciate the comments as I know Panerais are not everyone's cuppa; Radiomirs too, for that matter, although for me they're the "real" Panerais.

    Steve, I'll think about the black strap option, although I have to say that it's not something I'd have considered without prompting.

    Very nice Tony.

    Understand your view that the Radiomirs are the definition of Panerai but the Luminor edges it for me.....but lovely watches all. There's a simple elegance, but with some scale, that the Panerai "haters" don't get.

    Enjoy.

  22. #22
    Master
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    A great Sunday morning read and a stunning looking watch

    Thanks v much Tony

    ATB

    Jon

  23. #23
    Master MFB Scotland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by westy View Post
    As ever, thanks for taking the time to post and take the photo's.
    'Tis a lovely thing indeed...
    As that man said.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  24. #24
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Thanks again, chaps. David, I didn't realise that you had a 183 - nice (and we clearly have similar taste in respect of larger watches)!

  25. #25
    Grand Master magirus's Avatar
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    A very handsome piece Tony, but a little surprising given the 45mm/27mm size after you didn't take to the 42mm/22mm of the Dornblüth you had. However I'm guessing that the dial area of the PAM is less and being dark rather than white this will also wear smaller. I also presume the lug-lug is less than the Dornblüth? The height difference and (again I'm guessing) lighter weight due to the Ti would also make for a lighter feel to the watch? I see you are using a lot more light in your shots these days. ;-)
    F.T.F.A.

  26. #26
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Correct on all counts, Bob. Well, I'm not sure about the lighting, but that aside...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #27
    Master hhhh's Avatar
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    Superb Tony.

    I look forward to trying it for size.

  28. #28
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hhhh View Post
    Superb Tony.

    I look forward to trying it for size.
    Hah!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  29. #29
    Master
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    Its a great looking piece and one I've flirted with more than once, a lovely combination of materials and colours. Its only problem for me is the date and its chubbyness around the waist, its just a bit too portly for me.

    Agree the Asso strap looks better than the factory gator too. Is this by any chance the WB clearance piece?

  30. #30
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    Thanks very much for the write up which was an interesting read over the morning coffee. Thanks for all the details you shared - even though it's not a watch I could ever wear, lots of interesting features. I was particularly intrigued by the seconds reset device? Is that to allow you to set the precise time against a reference source by flicking three seconds forward / back to the precise minute? An alternative to hacking?

  31. #31
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    I don't mind the size at all, Baz - possibly because I've had a 233 and a 268, and neither of those were wallflowers; or possibly because - in titanium - it's so light on the wrist.

    Quote Originally Posted by Yorky View Post
    Thanks very much for the write up which was an interesting read over the morning coffee. Thanks for all the details you shared - even though it's not a watch I could ever wear, lots of interesting features. I was particularly intrigued by the seconds reset device? Is that to allow you to set the precise time against a reference source by flicking three seconds forward / back to the precise minute? An alternative to hacking?
    Not sure what you mean by your reference to three seconds, but it's certainly an alternative to the more traditional hacking. When the crown is released fully (that is, to the time-setting position) the second hand is reset to zero. That, and the rapid advance of the hour hand, make all aspects of time and date setting pretty straightforward.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Not sure what you mean by your reference to three seconds.
    Sorry, the "three" was a typo. Auto-correct! Thanks for the explanation. Very interesting - not seen that before. Can definitely see the benefit over hacking - which I sometimes find slightly tricky to stop dead on 0s.

  33. #33
    Lovely write up and pics. Congratulations.
    I hope you get a new watch everyday, so that you can treat us to a great write up and pics everyday.
    I don't care if you flip them the next day:-)

  34. #34
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAJEN View Post
    Lovely write up and pics. Congratulations.
    I hope you get a new watch everyday, so that you can treat us to a great write up and pics everyday.
    I don't care if you flip them the next day:-)
    That's very kind, mate!

  35. #35
    Master
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    Congratulations, that is a beauty.

  36. #36
    Master Thorien's Avatar
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    Not in to Panerai, mainly because I've never actually tried one on and I imagine they'd be way to big for me, your excellent write ups and pics always have me thinking I really should try one though!
    This one looks stunning! Gratz.

  37. #37

    Lovely

    Lovely and I understand now!

    Shye

  38. #38
    Master paneristi372's Avatar
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    Beautiful watch excellently supported by beautiful pictures. As always. Great write up too Tony.

    The 8 Day movement is what I'm after next I think, probably in the form of a dot dial 233. we'll see, it changes daily!

  39. #39
    Master Optimum's Avatar
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    What a beautiful piece, Tony - congrats! Definitely one of the more interesting Rads where the different elements all come together so well. I'm a huge wire lug Rad fan (despite never owning one!) but I still think the sweet spot for me is 42mm.

  40. #40
    Master
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    Fantastic. Love Titanium Panerais. Just picked up a 311 :)

    Panerai for me is so misunderstood. Often people just associate it with showy fashion styles or whatever but in fact they are an excellent Manufacture with alot of technically sophisticated movements. Case in point, my 311 is a hacking, zero second reset, triple barrel 8 day PR, mono pusher 30 minute chronograph column wheel, with a GMT and quick hour hand set. Its pretty impressive if you ask me!

    The 1815 Lange up/down also utilises a Zero Second reset also. I think Valfleurier, the Richemont R&D Movement manufacture shares alot of R&D with other brands I think.

  41. #41
    Master daveyw's Avatar
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    Great looking watch. I've had my 268 now for about 5 years and I can also attest to the accuracy of the 3-barrels giving consistent power over the 8 days. I too wear mine on a Asso strap and it wears incredibly well. With the lightness of the titanium case I wouldn't hesitate to put it on a black alligator though.

    Great pics as always. Enjoy

  42. #42
    Master
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    I can see I'm going to have to try on 45mm Radiomirs again.

    I tried the PAM619 but felt it was marginally too big and the 42mm just looked too small for a Panerai even on my puny wrist - but they are so nice...

  43. #43
    Craftsman
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    Lovely watch and a super write up! That's why I love this site...thanks for sharing!

  44. #44
    Master
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    Saw a picture on the Friday thread and thought this was a beauty. I had never been a fan of Panerais until i got a 590 earlier in the year then i got "it". And i want a Radiomir next.

    This is just lovely, love the Ti, love the tobacco dial Pam do, love the 8 day.

    In short love it

  45. #45
    Master
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    Pam do occasionally get it absolutely spot on and this is one of those. Detail on the dial is perfect, no need for a power reserve indicator as that imo would clutter it, whereas yours is beautifully balanced.

    Truly lovely

  46. #46
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Thanks so much, guys - it really does make me happy that so many here truly appreciate what Panerai is about. I know they don't always get it right, but when they do...

  47. #47
    Master Pitch3110's Avatar
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    I think the Pam love does grow into the Rad models or certainly is for me.

    When my love of Panerai first started it was the 1950's cased models all the way, hence a PAM312 finding its way into my collection. Even more so when Jason brought that lovely 233 to the Norwich GTG last year, that just blew me away.

    But as time marches on I am finding myself leaning more and more to Radiomir's and the 1940's models also. I still kick myself today that I did not dive in when WB were having the stock sale in Norwich....live and learn not to think too much.

    Lovely write up, pic's are amazing buddy and I must say the 346 is absolutely stunning, the mix of brushed and polished is just so right.

    Enjoy

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