Reply With QuoteNow that is a write up !!!!
History
The first modern dive watch, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was released 1953. It was requested by the French military and made in accordance to their specific demands. The watch needed a one way lumed and graded bezel to measure elapsed time under water, it needed to be shock proof and it needed to be waterproof to the maximum recommended depth for diving at that time (50 Fathoms= 91,44m).
These demands are now standard in the watch industry and in accordance with the ISO6425 which specifies the standards for modern dive watches.
Blancpain also incorporated a screw lock caseback, double gaskets for the crown and automatic winding to reduce stress on the crown gaskets.
http://blog.dreamchrono.com/2014/04/...factory-visit/
1961: SSIH (now Swatch Group) buys Blancpain.
1981: JCB (Jean-Claude Biver) leaves Omega and buys the dormant brand Blancpain together with Jacques Piguet for CHF22000.
1982: Blancpain "Moon Phase". Blancpains commercials proclaims:
"Since 1735 there has never been a Blancpain quartz watch and there will never be one"
Blancpain put all their effort in complicated watches and watch movements during the 80s when the other brands draw the conclusion that quartz watches were the future. When Rolex, Audemars Piguet and othe luxury watch brands had some quartz models, Blancpain still stuck to an all mechanical lineup.
1985: Blancpain launches a Perpetual Calendar wrist watch.
1988: Blancpain presents 6 new models, all with master complications considered to be hard to make: Ultra slim, moon phase, perpetual calendar, split second chronograph, tourbillon and a minute repeater. This proved that Blancpain was a high end watch brand to be reckoned with.
1992: Blancpain was sold back to SSIH for CHF 60 000 000, but JCB stays as CEO until 2002 when JCB turns over the position to Marc Hayek.
After that, JCB went to Hublot which is another fairytale of how Hublot was saved from bankruptcy and lead to success.
Now JCB is CEO of Tag Heuer and we can already (2016) see how he has influenced the brand to move upscale.
Pictured: A Swedish collectors (Christian's) BP FF 40mm.
1999: Blancpain releases "Concept 2000", three watch models with Fifty Fathoms looks, but it was not until 2003 when Blancpain celebrated their 50 anniversary that they released a 40mm Fifty Fathoms model with a sapphire bezel. The model looks similar to the original model but with a modern movement and updated materials. They sold out quickly and Blancpain received lots of requests for a larger sized unlimited version. The 40mm version is now very sought after and expensive,
It was made in 3 batches of 50.
Blancpain met the demand 2007 with the launch of the 45mm Fifty Fathoms Automatique, the FF Tourbillon and the FF chronographe. Today I will review the FF Automatique (5015-1130-52).
More history here:
http://people.timezone.com/jmerino/history50.pdf
And here:
http://www.watchtime.com/cms/wp-cont...ncpain_fin.pdf
JCB on Hodinkee talking watches.
https://youtu.be/gaZS2Xlc2mY
Another video telling the history of Blancpain.
Fifty Fathoms Automatique
Reference number: 5015-1130-52
Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 15,5mm
Lug/lug (vertical measurement): 52mm
Strap: 23/20mm "Sailcloth"
WR: 300m
Movement
Blancpain cal 1315
Frequency: 28800bph
Thickness: 5.65 mm
Diameter: 30.60 mm
Power reserve: 120 hours (5 X 24 hours)
Number of barrels: 3
Number of jewels: 35
Number of parts: 227
The movement is developed, assembled and mostly produced in house. Many parts are finished traditionally by hand and every watchmaker has his/her own set of personally made tools for the job. The watchmaker is responsible for assembling the entire movement. There is of course a close relationship between the brands within Swatch Group and Frederic Piguet who earlier made movements for Blancpain is now (as I understand it) a part of Blancpain.
The automatic movement has 3 barrels which combined results in a power reserve of staggering 120 hours (5 days). The speed of the movement is 28800bph. The watch has both hack, manual wind and quick set for the date.
The movement is cased in iron resulting in a better magnetic resistance and the movement has a free sprung balance wheel. The movement has no lever for adjusting the speed of the movement, the adjustment and regulations are instead made by 4 screws on the balance wheel. Some reviews claim that this has to do with resistance to shocks but I talked to a well reputed Swatch watchmaker who insured me that it has nothing to do with shock resistance. With no regulating mechanism connected to the spring, the spring can move with less interference, resulting in better timekeeping. This system is supplied by Nivarox, a Swatch Group subsidiary responsible for providing the same system for Omega (so your Omega watchmaker would be able to regulate your Blancpain).
You can read more about Nivarox here:
http://www.ablogtowatch.com/inside-n...atch-industry/
And here:
http://www.watchprosite.com/?page=wf...061&pi=2634866
And more about free sprung balance wheel here:
http://www.iwc.com/forum/en/discussion/62987/
Case
The case has an all polished finish which isn't really to my liking theoretically but works great IRL. There is a limited edition Aqualung version which has a brushed finish and to me that looks very odd.
Most parts of the watch are convex, the only flat parts on the watch are the outsides and insides of the lugs. Think of the watch shape as a hamburger and you'll get the general idea. The finish is as expected flawless. The edges are distinct without being sharp and the parts fit together perfectly. The only downside is that an all polished watch attracts hairline scratches and fingerprints.
The left side of the case has BLANCPAIN engraved which has gotten some criticism but on the wrist it's hardly noticeable, especially if you wear the watch on your left wrist.
The lug to lug measurement is just over 50mm due to the very short lugs. The band width is 23mm which combined results in a very short distance between the spring bars and the case. The bevel on the underside of the case is also very small which makes it hard to fit anything other than a regular strap or rubber. Forget about nato straps, they are too thick to fit. I have no idea how some owners have been able to fit that combo.
The hex screw spring bar system is nice but a little fiddly, I would have preferred regular spring bars and drilled lugs combined with a larger bevel on the underside of the case to allow more clearance.
The case is large at 45mm but wears great due to the short lugs and the hamburgeresque case design. The 40mm version would probably look like a child's watch on me.
Bezel and crystal
The black bezel inlay is made in sapphire, it has a more sophisticated look than ceramics and is of course scratch "proof". The markings supposedly have 6 (!) layers of super luminova. The inlay is convex and the fit agains the glass and bezel is of course perfect.
The sapphire crystal is also domed, has double AR coating and meets the inlay without interruption from a glass ring. What looks like a glass retainer ring between the inlay and the crystal is actually the rehault ring situated beneath the crystal. The reflections from the crystal are present but not annoying.
The part between the knurls on the bezel is actually the only part on the watch that isn't polished. The grip is OK but the feel of the bezel is the best I've had in any watch. The 120 clicks are very firm and there is no play what so ever downwards or sideways. I have read that the early released models had some issues with the bezel but that is now sorted.
Caseback
Some opt for a glass caseback but personally i neither like the feel of glass against my wrist nor like the looks of a glass caseback so I'm glad the FF has a regular solid caseback. As I previously said, the FF has a cage around the movement to ensure magnetic resistance, that disables the option of having a glass caseback. This "problem" has been solved with the Bathyscape model which has a silicon balance spring. I'm guessing the same is true for the limited edition Aqualung edition which also has a glass caseback.
The caseback is convex and polished like the rest of the watch and the inscriptions are minimal. It's pretty cool that they only made 1395 examples of this watch model 2007-2012.
A closer look
The devil is in the details as they say and this is where the Fifty Fathoms really shines.
The hands are long, broad and bold with lots of super luminova. The minute and hour hands are slightly folded and the seconds hand is dipped in red and flat. Legibility is great!
The dial is separated in two sections. The outer section is thinner than the center part which I'm guessing enables for thick hour markers without risking the hands to hit the markers.
All the text on the dial is printed making the hour markers pop and the markers are all filled with thick super luminova. The center section of the dial has a more prominent sunburst effect than the outer section, a sunburst effect only visible in direct sunlight. The dial lights up beautifully when in direct sunlight and appears glossy black in the shade.
Crown
Separate headline for the crown? Yep, it's that good. The grip is great and the crown tube is very thick and comforting. There is no play what so ever in the time setting mode and the crown screws down very very nice. The double gaskets gives the crown a lovely dampened feel when pressing it in.
Straps and clasp
The sailcloth strap is very nice but previous reviewers have already written lengths about it so I'll skip that part and move over to the rubber (which has to be bought separate for about £300).
While waiting for the original rubber I had the watch on a 24/22mm Hirsch Pure rubber. It was a good strap combo but I couldn't get past the fact that I was unable to use the original clasp.
The original rubber is 23/20mm and it tapers in thickness. The tapering from 23 to 20mm helps the watch sit sturdy on the wrist without hindering the wrist to move freely, resulting in a much better fit than the Hirsch which only tapers to 22mm. The tapering in thickness helps to ensure a good fit without a bulky feel.
The strap has "BLANCPAIN" and "Fifty Fathoms" printed and the printings are very discreet IRL. the finish of the strap is matte black and I would probably had preferred a glossy finish like on the Hirsch Pure instead. The matte rubber however dresses down the watch a little which I like. The quality of the rubber compound is as expected great. It's sturdy but very flexible.
The rubber has two keepers, one fixed and one floating to help the end of the strap from flapping around. I usually remove the floating keeper but the strap is 7cm + 14cm so most will find the floating keeper necessary. I like the length of the strap since it sends a message that it's made to be used with a wetsuit. It's not too long for comfort on my 18,5cm wrist and the end piece sits nice and snugged thanks to it being relatively thin at the end.
There isn't much to say about the clasp. It does what its supposed to and I like the fact that the BLANCPAIN printing on the folding clasp is replaced by an "hour mark logo" from the dial.
There is a folding clasp for the sailcloth available at a crazy price (originally from the Aqualung version) and there is also a bracelet available for the cost of an arm and a leg.
Lume
I'm not a fan of super luminova since I seldom think it does the job well but on the BP FF it's a whole other story. The compound is thick on all parts so the Fifty Fathoms glows all through the night with no problem after a light charge. The initial lume is very intense so if you are out taking a stroll a sunny day you'll even see it glow when you stop under the shade of a tree, resulting in a nice splash of color in contrast to the black dial. In pith black the watch looks huge thanks to the richly lumed bezel inlay.
On the wrist
I have wanted to try a Fifty Fathoms for a very long time but the size specs scared me a little. There have been many owners and reviewers who have claimed that the FF wears smaller than 45mm due to the short lug to lug measurement and they are right. This however is not all due to that measurement. The hamburger case shape with slanting convex sides and convex caseback, the strap tapering and the 23mm band width combined are all equally important to help the watch to not flap around on the wrist and to enable the wrist to move freely.
I'm not lying when I say that the FF wears very very comfortable on my 18,5cm wrist. This however does NOT mean that the watch looks smaller than 45mm, it still is and looks like a big divers watch.
Summary
With a staggering price tag the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has a lot to live up to when it comes to quality and it doesn't disappoint. The is a lot of misconceptions out there; that the crown screws in with the logo up every time, that the quick set works both ways and that the sailcloth is unparalleled when it comes to quality. Non of these "facts" are true but it's still a fantastic watch.
Everything about the FF exudes quality; the overall case finish, the crown and bezel action, the straps, but most of all the overall design and wearability. The BP FF manages to do something for me which is very rare and that is to give me the sense of high end luxury while still keeping the tool aspect of a divers watch. It is clear that Blancpain has put a lot of effort in to this model for that to come true. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is in short for a better comparison pretty much a high end "Tuna". It has all the characteristics of a Tuna but in a high end package.
Last edited by yonsson; 23rd August 2016 at 16:03.
Now that is a write up !!!!
That is one stunning watch and one hell of a review - many thanks for posting.
It's gorgeous (though 300 quid for the rubber strap seems a bit cheeky)
Brilliantly detailed write up of a truly iconic watch - thanks!
Always loved the FF and if I had suitably sized wrists I'd have one in a heartbeat.
And now I learn there's a 40mm version... What sort of money do these go for?
love the review and a gorgeous watch
Lovely watch and superb article, thanks for posting.
Thank you for a fabulous review. I have the Aqua Lung and I personally love the brushed finish. It also comes with the rubber strap and the strap changing tools (including the tiny hex key). I totally agree with the luxury feel with the still tool feel - nothing has ever made me smile as much. I have never had it on the rubber (it is too long for me) or the sailcloth (that is also too long with the deployment) but I have ordered the short sailcloth and I really looking forward to getting that and finally trying it as it was meant to be. I currently have it on a Hirsch Duke with red stitching. It was meant to match the second hand tip but I wish I had originally gone for the white stitching.
Thanks again - so nice to see such a comprehensive review and it not be about a Rolex :-)
Very thorough review with lovely photography. I was struck by how much the Blancpain resembles the Grand Seilko dive watches. Well, actually the GS takes references from the Blancpain.
Big watch, very glossy. But I do like it.
Still, I have sworn off dive watches, unless I take up diving.
Fantastic review and write up of a beautiful watch.
I really am impressed by the quality of my Dark Knight edition each time I put it on.
Fantastic review and certainly does not help my obsession with the fifty fathoms.
Thoroughly enjoyable review yonsson and thanks for the time and effort.
I tried this watch on last month and was mightily impressed, so much so I'm considering adding one to my collection soon as the chances of getting on the PP ladder seem very slim indeed.
Would be curious to see/feel if the FF looked as gorgeous on the steel bracelet?
STOP!!!!
I need a new car, not another watch, but threads like this and especially images like this one...
...really don't help!
Gorgeous watch and great review.
M
Thanks for taking the time to post your first-class review. I'll never look at a hamburger quite the same way again
Superb write up of a superb looking watch.
Every time I see one, I keep thinking maybe I should
That's most in-depth and comprehensive review of a watch I've seen to date not only on TZ-UK but any watch forum/portal. Thank you so much for taking time to compile and post OP, very informative.
Fas est ab hoste doceri
That's a great write up of an iconic watch.
Neil
Thanks for that!
I've now switched looking at other models to this.... I NEED one in my life!
Thanks for the informative write up. Impressive watch indeed.
Thanks for taking the time to write this, great detail and photos!
Stellar post, stellar watch👍👍
Very informative review and a cracking watch - thanks.
Great write up. It is still a watch that brings smile every time I wears it.
Ditto. The 40mm are so rare I have never seen one for sale. I reckon 15k. Both the reviewed and smaller one are so fabulous.Originally Posted by Roland
Thanks for the wonderful review and just when I was diverting my slowly growing watch pot to an SD 4000 based one the best watch thread.... Ah.....
Enjoy
Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk
The watch isn't to my taste however I felt the need to post to thankyou for a wonderful and detailed review. Was genuinely interesting!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What a great review of a fabulous watch. Thanks for posting.
This
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
A great review for a fabulous watch. My mate used to own the 'no-radiation' version and I loved the build quality, the bezel is just stunning but like a lot of modern watches 45mm just looks daft on me. Here is hoping Blancpain bring out another 40mm version. I think that would be my one and done dive watch!
A very entertaining read, which I enjoyed reading, thank you
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Thanks for the very enjoyable post!
I've always been a big fan of BP, and after trying a few of their watches, I found the FF to be something in its own league.
Thanks a lot for the positive comments, it makes it worth the time! English isn't my first language but I do my best. :)
Regarding the watch, I get that there is a skepticism to 45mm but don't knock it until you have tried it, the 40mm version would probably look like a kids watch on me. As you know, wrist shots don't tell the whole story.
Great review of a good looking watch.
I agree with you that this wears small for a 45mm watch due to the relatively short lug to lug size, which is the more important measurement for apparent size on the wrist imo.
Mitch
Great review of the great watch.
Thank you very, very much.
Fantastic review of a watch I have always wanted. Agree re the comments on 45mm I have tried one on a couple of times and they wear great. Every time I see one for sale I am tempted and I am sure I will pick one up one day and as you say the sapphire bezel makes it very special looking.
The word 'icon' is an overused cliché but I think it readily applies here. The true grandfather of dive watches. Give me one of these over a Rolex Sub every day of the week! Also a little bit of a stealthy option insofar as those who know, know...
Having tried the FF on my wrist on several occasions, I'd confirm that it wears much less obtrusively than the 45mm spec would suggest. You'd never call it a modest option, but anything over 42mm usually looks like an ashtray on my wrist and yet the FF fitted very well and felt very comfortable.
The part of the OP's review that I disagree with relates to JCB going to Tag: I wouldn't say the brand has been going upmarket under his stewardship, actually quite the reverse.
SGR
Last edited by StuartGR; 24th August 2016 at 16:01.
Great post OP, thanks.
It's an iconic watch I've been close to buying a couple of times.
Although historically the right choice,mi can't get comfortable with the sailcloth. By comfort I mean it just doesn't look as good as it could, but there's no better alternative either.
I also find the RRP puts the watch in very competitive territory.
When I first became aware of the FF, I thought that the big glossy sapphire bezel was really OTT and too ostentatious, but when you look at the overall package - case and bezel finish, superb movement, great lume and distinctive dial and handset - I even like the date at 04.30!!, it all just works.
Toolwatch it ain't!!, but It's just got to be up there as the ultimate 3 hander luxury dive watch.
Given that I still I have minor reservations about the bezel, would prefer the Blancpain name not engraved across the case side and would prefer a brushed case, I would have one in a heart beat.
Great review of an all-time classic.
So a tourbillon watch model and raising prices isn't going upscale? I'm not saying they are there yet but I'm pretty sure JCB will get them there.
What about the rubber?
Apologies for not mentioning. I think I'd have to see it, but as with all us WIS, it's about balancing what 'should' be worn with what is comfortable.
One of the most iconic dive watches available today, so congrats and enjoy it.
Great write up on a very interesting watch!
Great post OP. Love that watch so very jealous.
That's a really great review - thanks v much. I'm now sorely tempted!
ATB
Jon
I guess most of us have a 'fantasy watch box' in our heads, and the FF has occupied a slot in mine ever since I sat next to a guy wearing one on a plane. I was entranced - I suspect he thought I was a complete wierdo!
It's been said over and over again in this thread - this is one of the best members reviews I've ever read. Many thanks.
I now want one even more, damn you!
Simon
I had to smile a bit at that, you want to change quite a lot of the key elements of the watch and then say "All-time classic"
I guess I know what you mean, though.
I don't think I'll ever want a Rolex Sub or a JLC Reverso, but I can't argue with their places on an 'all time classics' list.
M.
Thanks for the informative review, my favourite watch, but out of my reach unfortunately
Cheers
Kevin
Price rise? What price rise?
http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.ph...heir-prices-UK
The tourbillon model was an interesting move but I'm not sure we can point to this as part of a concerted strategy to push Tag higher up the scale of haute horologie in the same way as, say, Omega. They come out with these kinds of halo models every few years and they probably sell a few but it's far from representative of the wider range and the accompanying 'my first grown up Swiss watch' vibe that TH now has. And I say that as someone who has owned my fair share and consistently moved them on with the exception of the Monaco.
SGR
Great review of a fantastic watch. And congratulations for owning such an iconic masterpiece. I'm also a proud owner of a Fifty Fathoms and can only say yes to every word you wrote. But i like the sailcloth better on it, as it is really the best combo and the best strap you can get (imho).
Really nice that you captured some of the fine details, as the sunburst finish in the middle section of the dial.
The Fifty Fathoms is a watch to see and feel in real, as it is hard to capture all those fine finishes and details in pictures.
For me, it's my exit watch (so far ;))
Really enjoying all the positive comments about one of my favourite watches and also the lovely photos.
Any owners care to let me/us know any changes they'd prefer or negatives to owing this classic? For example, love my U1 but don't like the double sided AR....
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My FF is by far my favourite watch in my collection. The only downside for me is that I'd love to have it on a bracelet (currently it's on a rubber strap) but the cost of a bracelet is huge.
Thanks a lot for the positive comments, it makes it worth the time! English isn't my first language but I do my best. :)
Regarding the watch, I get that there is a skepticism to 45mm but don't knock it until you have tried it, the 40mm version would probably look like a kids watch on me. As you know, wrist shots don't tell the whole story.
Fantatastic review. Thank you so much for taking the time to compile it. Great to see you wearing it on the 'right' side of the styloid process. I got soooo much stick on that point before when I posted a wrist shot! Martyn
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