Reply With QuoteMinute hands that reach the edge of the dial. Examples are the PRS-68 and Black Bay. Wish I'd realized this earlier in my watch purchasing adventures.
Been "into" watches for a few years now, and I know tastes change - mine have significantly, but I think I'm in a position now to list a few enduring preferences. It's not an exhaustive list, and they aren't must haves. Just a few features which will always appeal to me in a watch.
Drilled lugs, or fixed bars where appropriate - the spring bar is always the weakest point for a potential strap/bracelet failure, so I want the most secure connection possible. Not all watches belong on a NATO of course, so drilled lugs and shoulderless bars are the best option in most cases. Also makes changing straps and bracelets so much easier.
Smaller sizes - By today's standards. I have a perfectly average sized wrist at 7.5 inches, and it's quite flat, so I can wear any size, but I really do prefer 36-38mm. In divers watches I'll accept up to a 42mm if it wears reasonably small.
Curved/bevelled cases - I really do enjoy an interesting case, with attractive curves and a variety of angles and finishes to draw the eye.
Attractive case backs - I hate to see the space on the back of a watch go to waste. The design of the back is almost as important as the dial. Movements on display are a plus where the decoration is worth seeing.
Understated dials - They don't have to be plain. They can be cluttered where the clutter is both functional and attractive. Overbearing branding and pointless text is a turn-off. Anything which dominates the dial too much, or ruins the symmetry is a shame. Date Windows should be at 3 or 6 only, and should not be white on a dark dial.
Robust, serviceable movements - High end in house ultra thin doesn't particularly appeal. I'm happy with something agricultural if it keeps good time, can withstand a bit of rough treatment and neglect, and most importantly will remain serviceable for a very long time, preferably at a reasonable price by independents.
Spec - Decent water resistance, and anti-magnetism appeal, even in not particularly sporty watches. Not having to worry about your watch as much is a very useful feature.
So those are some of the preferences which I don't think are likely to change.
Be interested to hear yours.
Minute hands that reach the edge of the dial. Examples are the PRS-68 and Black Bay. Wish I'd realized this earlier in my watch purchasing adventures.
If that Smiths came as a no date...holy cow.
I have to have a date and it has to be at the three o'clock position.
The date has to be a black date on a white background, or on black dials I can accept a white date on a black background. I don't like blue or green dials with a black date window.
Last edited by vortgern; 13th July 2016 at 08:51.
If that Smiths came as a no date.... it'd still be ugly (IMO of course)Originally Posted by dice
Lugs (i.e. not lugless, doesn't stop me wearing my Speedmaster 4.5 but I wish it had visible lugs (i.e. a grail))
Date, ideally day date.
Hands that you can tell apart, but not Mercedes hands
Chronos
Centre minutes for the chrono
Clean dials but they don't need to be sterile, I think this boils down to an absence of excessive writing or overly fancy logos (I quite like a few Zenos but don't like that logo)
In this day and age, why manufacturers cannot produce bracelets which can be adjusted perfectly to the wearers wrist is beyond me.
Fiddling with links and half links is an aged formula and will stop me buying a watch.
The glidelock function Rolex offer and a comfort link is something I’d like to think could be standard.
Applied numerals if done well.
Lots of curves.
Reassuring tactile quality in the hand and when setting.
Understatement bordering on anonymity.
I've worked out I like best:
* dial symmetry and no 'wonky' date windows
* no numbers on the dial and preferably round dial markers
* legibility to tell the time at a glance
* smaller approx 40mm size to suit my skinny wrists
* sleek case shapes
* good solid movements, with interesting features if possible
If Rolex made a SubND in the same shape case as the SDc then that would probably be the only watch I'd ever need.
You know it's a pretty faithful 6105 "homage" right? So I take it you're not a fan of the original either?
I like bracelets to stay the same width all the way around. Tapering bracelets to me unbalance the watch unless the head is really small and slim.
Had to google a 6105 and yes the original Seiko is also ugly to my eye, case way too big for strap size looks out of proportion, not keen on cushion cases in general. Fat square lume, although practical, it covers 3 minutes and shape doesn't work for me on a round dial.
Like you said, its completely subjective so no hard feelings. The turtle case never appealed to me until I saw this, I've not been a fan of any of the Seikos its based on.
Yes this. I've had a few Omega SMPs but can't get a decent fit, and have had to sell the watches.
If it's not 40mm + its a deal breaker for me!
Legibility
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
OP you're right about tastes changing - before I really 'knew' watches, i'd be attracted to big busy faced chronographs with a lot going on and subdials within subdials etc. etc. Normally diver types. These days I can't stand them.
These days for me a watch has to be very simple, understated and also versatile. I don't have the funds to be buying new watches all the time so I have to be able to change the strap on my two watches to make them fit the style. My Longines HC can do smart, casual and go-anywhere depending on if I put it on the bracelet, a NATO or an Isofrane respectively. My other watch is a Junghans Max Bill Auto and again - very simple and understated, and looks great on leather or NATO.
Size (in my case <40mm or <47mm ltl)
My others appear contradictory, but I know what I mean :)
Understated - Differential
Uniqueness - Versatility
Cult - Under radar
Water resistance
Accuracy
Comfort
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
I'm finding that I need a date, always. Won't buy a watch without a date.
Seem to be now preferring applied hour markers and not numberd whether Arabic or Roman numerals.
Robustness need to be a factor together with the thing being waterproof to a certain level.
Date is always a bonus
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
Applied, and more specifically, lumed numbers. No idea why, but if there are numbers or even a 3/6/9/12 I seem to be able to get my brain to 'understand' what it's looking at quicker.
Interesting topic and it got me to thinking.
I remember the first new watch I ever purchased at a retailer years and years ago, had to be the late 60's. I seem to recall it was a Waltham. It was a black faced diver, very legible, date window at 3:00, unidirectional black elapsed time bezel, black strap.
Now decades have passed, countless watches have been bought and sold, and if I ask myself what I really tend to prefer and wear today, it is the same type of watch exactly, only this time its usually a Seiko.
Dave
Secure crown action
Applied indices
Black dial
Non lumed bezel
To answer the OP, less is more these days, but not a strict list of must haves. Used to have a predominantly chrono collection: in no particular order
Longines Flagship
TH Monaco
Swatch Irony
Breitling Blackbird
Omega Speedmaster
Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Bvlgari Scuba Pro
Rolex Daytona
Then moved to 3 handers with date, or sub-dial seconds with date
No looking at either the above without date.
As I'm getting more into PAMs these days, the advantage of having a quick strap change is a bonus or drilled lugs, with 20mm or 22mm width so they can be used across my 'range'
Clean looks, clean lines, less than 40mm, if a diver a poor-clicking bezel can be a deal-breaker!
I like a watch with a simple face. Not too busy.
Symmetry is also key.
Also a watch the feels solid with a good weight but not uncomfortable on the wrist.
Lug holes, applied dot or stick markers, stainless steel.
I also really like genta influenced watches.
Two things matter for me
1) The ability to read the time quickly
2) My randomly fickle changing of tastes
I vear towards
- Smaller cases - ideally sub 40mm
- Uncluttered dials - ideally with no date
- Curved lugs - seem to fit better
At least two of my watches dont quite match the above but sort of make up for it in other ways
I love the fixed lugs on my CWC Diver and am consdering shoulderless spring bars for my other watches as I pretty much wear them all on one piece perlons these days. If anyone has particular recomendations on a good supplier for quality ones then I would be grateful.
FTFY
Good luck everybody. Have a good one.
Something i can easily read the time on, too many the hands dissapear into the dial and i cant see them very well, my grey Monaco is a prime example. I had a lovely yellow Prometheus sailfish, but just couldnt tell the time on it.
And im not a great lover of mercedes type hands, but i will suffer them.
I know I like a plain, easy to read dial and hands. Nothing too shiny or blingy either.
And I've found from experience that what I like in photos often doesn't translate into what I like when I have it in the flesh (goes for a lot of things not just watches!). Must remember that every time I hover over the button to buy a new Seiko turtle! ;)
**Edit: I think the list of things I don't like is easier to quantify than the list of things I like as I try to keep an open mind as much as possible (and accept that my tastes have definitely changed over time, sometime swinging almost full circle).
Last edited by andy100; 13th July 2016 at 17:47.
Must have a good solid crown
Easy to read (currently selling a silver on silver el Primero as I cannot see the time without glasses)
No bigger than 44m
Gold if 35m
Stainless steel if it's hitting 40m+
Unless it's a vintage dress watch, must have minimal 100wr..
Unless it's a vintage dress watch must have heft.
Minimal polishing ( now hate Oris Divers due to shiny bracelets )
Dial Black, Blue, White, no Orange or Yellow
Drilled lugs, acrylic crystals, no date, looks good on Natos, leather and bracelet. Between 38mm and 42. Minimal dial text.
Legibility, legibility, legibility
Date at 3 position
Clean and simple dial (I.e. not a Breitling!)
100m water resistance min
A subtle splash of colour somewhere
Bracelet (I swap out straps but bracelet is the one I end up on most - if I had a dress watch then leather would be fine on that)
Not a chrono - dunno what it is but I just can't get myself to like them
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+1, all bracelets should be east to adjust to +\_ 2mm .
Paul
Yes, spot on
The main reason that try as I might I just cant get on with bracelets
I will add to my original list that a screw-in caseback is a must (surprising how often this is lacking on modern watches), and a screw-down crown is a bonus, except where the movement is manual winding only.
white dial
No date
Printed dial (no applied indices)
39mm to 42mm
Although I own some exceptions I prefer thinner case watches. I love my SD but it would be my ideal watch if it was 1-2mm thinner (I understand that would potentially jeopardise WR). Talking of WR, 100m is an absolute must and pretty inexcusable with modern materials. I have owned many Speedies and a Navitimer, great watches, but have always left me concerned about their general sturdiness. I like bezels too (or a chronograph feature) as I am a terrible fidget. I like my Nautilus, perfect thinness and WR to 120m. If and when PP stick a bezel on it, I have my grail!
What a gloriously enigmatic, nuanced and honest post!
I have found reading this thread really fascinating. I seem to be out of step with most of you because I like dials with lots going on, as long as you can tell the time and read what else it is showing!
Bracelets seem to be easier for me than any straps.
And I seem to go for things based on the story and the design not the engineering, so head not heart decision.
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I like a nice positive click on a bezel. My favourite bezel clicks are the DSSD and the previous generation IWC Aquatimer 2000
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