Grand Seiko's signature pieces

[Rocket Man]

Rolex have the Submariner and the Explorer. Omega have the Speedmaster and the Seamaster. What do we think the signature Grand Seiko pieces are?

I'd say that the number one spot has to go to the Snowflake. I'd argue that the SBGM221 deserves second place.

I'm wondering what else might be considered an iconic GS?

There are iconic cases that represent the grammar of design, 44GS and 62GS but no single piece defines them. There are signature dial textures such as Mt. Iwate, lion's mane and their champagne dial, but these are found across many references.

I'm told that the Snowflake and Shunbun are the top selling references in the UK, so perhaps the Shunbun deserves third place.

What do we think?

[Idontgram]

The SBGM221 gets a lot of praise. And if I was going to buy a GS, that would be the one. HOWEVER, it’s not very grand seiko-y. The case and the dial are rather plain, though the finishing is top notch. It looks more like a classic European dress watch than something Japanese and uniquely GS.
For me, the snowflake is the signature, with something like the white birch coming in a far behind it.

[Itsguy]

I think you’re right in that the GS model line just doesn’t work the same way as say, Rolex or Omega. There are some iconic case shapes, movements and dials, then it’s over to the fruit machine to see what combinations they can make. The best versions may be small run limited editions or the eye wateringly expensive ‘masterpiece’ collection. In the standard collection, they are often relatively quiet versions of these themes, which somehow don’t seem to define the brand. The snowflake is clearly the one undisputed classic. I would also argue though that the most simple of them all, the 37mm 9F Quartz, is a classic in its own understated way. You could also consider some of these:

This SBGJ255G seems like a classic GS, but is a limited edition:


SLGH013, combining a signature ‘interesting’ dial, the 44GS case, and their high beat movement.


SBGA415G for similar reasons:


There have been many variation of their first historical watch over the years, the only current relatively affordable one has a blue dial, the ultimate one is this one:


Likewise this £52,000 version is the platonic form of an idea you see in the Omiwatari:


I think this Lake Suwa deserves to be an iconic GS, but the bracelet confuses the issue for me. On leather there’s no question:


Meanwhile these simple manual wind 37.3mm watches in a variety of colours seem to be working for them. They photograph well though personally I find the cases a bit too rounded.



The white birch and other ‘Evolution 9’ offerings may yet turn out to be a classic but it’s too soon to tell.


I think GS is either a brand in flux, experimenting at dizzying speed to discover and define their iconic models, of this flux actually is what defines them, with a never ending chocolate box of tempting choices instead of the same old rigid categories.