closing tag is in template navbar
timefactors watches



TZ-UK Fundraiser
Results 1 to 27 of 27

Thread: IWC Ingenieur 3227-12

  1. #1

    IWC Ingenieur 3227-12

    Been a while so here's a short review of one I picked during my forum sabbatical. It is the IWC Ingenieur 3227-12. The "dash 12" signifying the edition of 200 made in collaboration with Japanese alpinist and conservationist Ken Noguchi, who was ( at the time aged 25 ) the youngest person to scale the highest mountains of the world's seven continents. He took an Ingenieur on his latest ascent of Everest and has been active in projects to clean both Everest and Fuji, the iconic mountain of his homeland. IWC for their part, produced a special edition of the 3227 piece with a different dial colour ( chocolate ) and unique case back, a special box and contents, and they contributed to the Sherpa fund.



    For me, based in Japan and a hobbyist hiker, there is some connection with Noguchi-san, although he is both younger than I am and rather more accomplished. Such is life.

    As you've no doubt seen from the first picture, the dial can look anything but chocolatey. The anti-reflective coating on both sides of the crystal frequently creates a vivid blue. As so often is the case, it is hard to capture.







    So to the watch itself. The IWC Ingenieur has a long history and you can find much written about it so I wont duplicate. A couple of references on the 3227 and history for those inclined. In short, this version was launched in 2005 and echoed the Gerald Genta design of the 1970s Jumbo SL model. It retained the anti-magnetic and anti-shock features, with a new in-house movement ( Cal. 80110 ) held in a new 42mm case with integrated bracelet :


    ( IWC stock photo )

    The 80110 movement caused some stir at introduction as it was "inspired" by the Valjoux cal. 7765. More on that all over the usual fora, or here for a quick summary. Suffice to add, the unique-to-IWC 80110 features some interesting design elements such as the rotor being mounted on a shock-absorbing bridge, with Delrin™ bumpers on the baseplate, and IWC's patented Pellaton winding mechanism :


    ( IWC stock photo )

    But what of this chocolate of which I speak ? Indeed, while appreciating the Noguchi and Everest connections, the special characteristic of this particular 3227 reference that is actually noticeable to the wearer is the dial colour. Using the same camera, same settings and same location but merely rotating the watch, the colour is finally revealed :





    The dial itself features applied hour markers, a large applied "12" and "6" and minute-marked chapter ring. The hands are straight-sided steel, with the seconds hand in orange. The dial surface is textured with interlocking "I" characters, subtly echoing Ingenieur - as indeed the bracelet does less subtly with huge interlocking horizontal "I" links. The caseback on this edition features a sherpa with Everest in the background :



    Just visible in that shot are the tiny release buttons, in the centre of the underside of each link, which when depressed permit the bracelet pins to be simply pushed out. Two pushers are provided for this purpose, though toothpicks also suffice. The system is quick, solid and elegant. The bracelet features a deployant with a single, well-recessed, release button. Half links allow easier resizing but there is no micro-adjust possible. If you get a good fit ( I do, using a half-link ) the bracelet is very comfortable and holds this quite heavy ( 200g+ ) watch in place.

    My thoughts on this watch. The size is the biggest I can wear. It fits comfortably on my wrist with no lug overhang. I also wear a Speedmaster Professional and I think it is comparable. I was not able to wear a 45mm Planet Ocean, for comparison. It is a thick watch, and I notice that its successor is significantly thinner, although it sacrifices the 80110 movement for a 2892-based calibre to achieve this. No crown guards and short-lasting lume are perhaps the only dents in this watch's armour. But the lume is expertly applied albeit not copiously. I prefer the 3227 case contour compared to the latest 40mm version, which features crown guards but loses some stern-ness of case angles to achieve it. Speaking of these, the whole watch is alive under light. Not just the chameleon dial but every polished and brushed surface dances as you move. The quality of the brushing and polishing is superb, the best I've seen.

    I would, with all respect to my all-time favourite Rolex 16600 Sea Dweller, rate this IWC as a somewhat higher quality item. It really does have an engineered attitude to every part of it right down to the bracelet pins. The Rolex is more than sufficient, of course, and I have no doubts as to its fitness for purpose, reliability and longevity. There just appears to be more effort, and the outcome more easily visible, in the machining and finishing of the IWC. I suspect it is, overall, the finest timepiece I have owned.

    Paul

  2. #2
    Craftsman henrik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    521
    I had no idea that a -12 version existed. Interesting story, do you have more information and pictures of the box and special content?
    I have a regular 3227 and I agree that it's very well put together

  3. #3
    Henrik,

    I found a pic of the box from a Japanese shop :



    ( mine is identical, it's just wrapped up in storage )

    The box contains a copy of Noguchi's 2003 book, and a plaque with the edition ( x/200 ) of the watch, plus the usual IWC accessories such as the instruction booklet and bracelet pin pushers. The external cardboard box has the same sherpa and Everest motif that features on the case back.

    Paul

  4. #4
    Master Possu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    3,744
    A lovely watch and an excellent write-up! Thanks for taking the trouble. I really like the IWC bracelet adjustment system.

  5. #5
    Very nice review and welcome back from your sabbatical Paul! Looking forward to hearing how your camera journey is going!

  6. #6
    Thank you. I am not sure I am "back" but I found my login details so I could post on Mark R's recent thread. Now I'm logged in I can see all the other sub forums ... plus ca change

    Pics above were either SOTC D750 / 100mm or iPhone. I may post something in the Photography sub forum about recent camera stuff ( Leica CL ... ) at some point. These quieter areas of TZ-UK seem less antagonistic.

    Paul

  7. #7
    Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Riyadh, KSA
    Posts
    5,521
    Very nice Paul, that's how a limited edition should be done, just enough to be different and special. Liked the exploded view too.

    Twas I that needed to be cleaned up when I ran down the ash fields of Mt Fuji.

  8. #8
    Ha ha, yes I know what you mean. Getting down Mt Fuji was more painful than the ascent. Some recent Noguchi-San comment on the cleanup http://www.japantimes.co.jp/news/201...-fuji-cleanup/. It didn't seem too bad at all when I climbed it, but I used a less traveled route. Or perhaps his efforts are paying off.

    Watch content : I wore my Monster

    Paul

  9. #9
    Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    N.ireland
    Posts
    5,058

    Cool

    Welcome back

  10. #10
    I know I'm not the first to point this out, but the Oysterquartz is reminiscent :





    The OQ Day Date I had ( mine shown above ) I sometimes wished I'd held out for a white gold version. The Ingenieur ( though in humble steel ) is a good replacement I feel.

    Paul

  11. #11
    Master Argon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    2,122
    Great review, Paul - thanks! I too was unaware of this special edition. I have a standard 3227 which is a permanent fixture in my collection, but I think I actually slightly prefer this one.

  12. #12
    Not too many special editions, I understand. Apart from this one, there is a salmon colour dial one ( again, Japan market only ), an AMG SLS one, and an IWC Forum edition with a grey dial. But even the "regular" steel and titanium 3227s are not especially numerous, being listed as current models between 2005-2008 only. The successor, ref. 3236 was 46mm, offered crown guards, and retained the same in-house movement. It was replaced again with the 40mm ref. 3239 ( with a 2892-based movement ) a couple of years ago. There is probably an Ingenieur for most tastes then, though personally I think a vintage or a version with the 80110 movement is worth seeking out.



    Paul

  13. #13
    Good to see you back, Paul!

  14. #14
    Craftsman Nuisance Value's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Central Scotland
    Posts
    682
    Fascinating write up and the links are very informative. Amazing dial!

  15. #15
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    North London
    Posts
    273
    Great watch (on my want list) and a very nice review! Thanks!

  16. #16
    Thanks to a fellow forum member I picked up a tobacco leather strap with IWC deployant. The attachment uses the same simple push-button release as the bracelet links. Meaning a swap from the bracelet to strap ( and back ) is painless, with no risk of scratches.





    Paul

  17. #17
    Master
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    5,672
    Nice write up Paul, and it now looks sublime on the tobacco coloured leather strap.
    I remember seeing that brown version and the salmon one on the usual JDM sources and thought it looked really smart – that strap lifts it a couple of notches higher.
    Well done and it seems like you're enjoying it quite a bit.

  18. #18
    Craftsman henrik's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    521
    How's the weight distribution, does it become top-heavy?

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by PJ S View Post
    Nice write up Paul, and it now looks sublime on the tobacco coloured leather strap.
    I remember seeing that brown version and the salmon one on the usual JDM sources and thought it looked really smart – that strap lifts it a couple of notches higher
    Thanks, I tried a black strap too but it didn't really work. The black ( or salmon ) dial would be easier to match with a black strap. Fortunately, the tobacco one seems like it could have been made for this model.

    There is a NOS salmon model at Jackroad at the moment, coincidentally. I like it, and they don't pop up too often, but I think one LE is probably enough for me.

    Paul

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by henrik View Post
    How's the weight distribution, does it become top-heavy?
    It is top heavy. Absurdly, IWC elves took a base chrono caliber as "inspiration", stripped all the chronograph bits, and using every modern manufacturing technique and material available, created a simple 3-hander movement that is even thicker . The chronograph version of this model ( using a modified 7750 ) is actually 1mm thinner.

    The magnificent IWC bracelet balances the weight out. I was a bit worried that the strap would struggle. It seems that IWC only fit straps to the titanium models, perhaps for this reason. But this ( Jacob ) strap is beefy enough that it is not an issue. I'm not sure it is visible in the pictures, but the strap starts out as thick as the lugs. It is extremely secure and comfortable. The watch is still "too thick" really, whether on bracelet or strap. But unlike many, it maintains its dimensions out of necessity of casing that mammoth movement in a Faraday cage, not a large spacer and lots of cosmetic padding.

    I can see why IWC ditched the movement for the 2892 in the latest ingenieur, but I rather like having one large watch that doesn't need to have a sock down its pants to prove anything

    Paul

  21. #21
    Some more pictures













    Paul
    Last edited by Tokyo Tokei; 5th September 2015 at 09:31.

  22. #22
    Journeyman
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    N/A
    Posts
    163
    Beautiful pics and nice writeup, thanks.

  23. #23
    Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Worthing, England
    Posts
    1,746
    That is a lovely dial...nice piece, like it a lot on the tobacco strap.

  24. #24
    Well, I've had a couple of 3227's and a 3228, but never heard of this one.
    looks sublime on the strap! rather fancy one of those- a kind of AP Safari look without the AP "bling"
    Thanks for the write-up, best article I have seen in ages on here.
    Goat

  25. #25
    Craftsman Evad3's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Portsmouth, UK
    Posts
    332
    It looks amazing on that tobacco brown strap

  26. #26
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    North London
    Posts
    273
    Great review and great pics, like many others on this thread I have never heard of the 3227-12, now I like it even more than the 3227-01 which was my favourite IWC!

  27. #27
    Really enjoyed reading this post. Thanks :)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Do Not Sell My Personal Information