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Thread: Jeans Thread

  1. #151
    Quote Originally Posted by Middo View Post
    Gustin seem to make some great stuff, what is the sizing like .
    pretty true to size. i've only bought their straight fit but they do slim and skinny too. they've got a comprehensive fit guide with accurate measurements on their website.

  2. #152
    Quote Originally Posted by sweeney View Post
    pretty true to size. i've only bought their straight fit but they do slim and skinny too. they've got a comprehensive fit guide with accurate measurements on their website.
    I used to wear Edwin all the time and a 32" waste needed a belt, the Gustin jeans are very true to size so I'd add an inch if I was to buy from them again

  3. #153
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    Very interesting thread. My Levis both tore at the knees within a week of each other (bought them at the same time) so I was in urgent need of a new pair. Ended up with Levis 504 as I was short of time and needed something.

    Question - where is a good place to go in central London where you can get a reasonable choice of brands to try out? Selfridges? I'm what you would call a regular wearer so probably won't go for lengthy periods of non-washing etc. Having said that, I am keen to get some that will last well. The last set of Levis lasted about 3.5 years of regular wear.

    Thanks

  4. #154
    Quote Originally Posted by bambam View Post
    Question - where is a good place to go in central London where you can get a reasonable choice of brands to try out?
    While it's not quite central, Son of a Stag near Brick Lane has an excellent selection of quality denim and knowledgable staff. Could be worth a visit if you want to check out some of the good stuff.

    Rivet and Hide in the West End is also excellent.

  5. #155
    ^^Not been there for a long time but Stuarts in Shepperd's Bush always had a good selection. They're possibly a stronger online presence now though.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belligero View Post
    While it's not quite central, Son of a Stag near Brick Lane has an excellent selection of quality denim and knowledgable staff. Could be worth a visit if you want to check out some of the good stuff.

    Rivet and Hide in the West End is also excellent.
    Another vote for "Son of a Stag" I've bought a couple of pairs of selvedge from them, very helpful and free alterations with chain stitching.

    Cheers

  7. #157
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    I bought a pair of Edwin ED-39 as I found a very good price online. They are a 32" waist, which is what I normally take in jeans, and they fit pretty well.

    They are a 34" leg though so I need to get them altered. Should I soak or wash them before taking them up so they shrink to their natural size?

  8. #158
    I've been looking at Raw denim as well, in particular Nudie as my first foray.

    I have read conflicting information, some posts here say buy a size smaller than normal as they stretch to fit others say go larger as they shrink to fit after the first wash.

    Could anyone clarify what Nudie denim typically does, shrink or stretch ?

    Thanks

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by bambam View Post
    Very interesting thread. My Levis both tore at the knees within a week of each other (bought them at the same time) so I was in urgent need of a new pair. Ended up with Levis 504 as I was short of time and needed something.

    Question - where is a good place to go in central London where you can get a reasonable choice of brands to try out?
    Selfridges? I'm what you would call a regular wearer so probably won't go for lengthy periods of non-washing etc. Having said that, I am keen to get some that will last well. The last set of Levis lasted about 3.5 years of regular wear.

    Thanks
    I would recommend stuartslondon.com

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    Thanks, although I have to say it feels easier to just wash them when I'm going to have to do it at some point.
    I'd also recommend Mr blacks denim refresh spray

  11. #161
    My Nudie Steady Eddie Dry Compact have arrived, they are very stiff. Is there anything you can do to speed up the break in process ?

    How many days will it take wearing them everyday before they soften up a bit as this is far from comfortable at the moment.

    TIA

  12. #162
    Quote Originally Posted by Vanguard View Post
    My Nudie Steady Eddie Dry Compact have arrived, they are very stiff. Is there anything you can do to speed up the break in process ?

    How many days will it take wearing them everyday before they soften up a bit as this is far from comfortable at the moment.

    TIA
    Give 'em a few days; raw denim takes a bit of getting used to compared to pre-faded, but they'll end up fitting and looking a lot better, and the cardboard phase doesn't last that long.

    You can give them a soak to get rid of the starch if you like, too. You'll won't get quite as much of the denim-nerd fading, but it'll help them to last longer if you take out some of the stiffness initially.

  13. #163
    Quote Originally Posted by Belligero View Post
    Give 'em a few days; raw denim takes a bit of getting used to compared to pre-faded, but they'll end up fitting and looking a lot better, and the cardboard phase doesn't last that long.

    You can give them a soak to get rid of the starch if you like, too. You'll won't get quite as much of the denim-nerd fading, but it'll help them to last longer if you take out some of the stiffness initially.
    Thanks Belligero, you mean just soak them in some cold water, no detergent ? For how long ?

  14. #164
    Quote Originally Posted by Vanguard View Post
    Thanks Belligero, you mean just soak them in some cold water, no detergent ? For how long ?
    Not much point in using detergent if they aren't dirty; just give 'em a dunking for an hour or so ó warm or cold is fine. Nudie uses Sanforized (pre-shrunk) denim so it won't affect the fit.

    The following advice from Tellason and Heddels seems sound to me:

    http://www.tellason.com/soaking-denim-denim-dictionary
    http://www.heddels.com/2011/03/soaki...liminary-step/

    Mind the bit about not using the dryer, unless you're going for the "Dad jeans" look.

  15. #165
    ^ Superb, many thanks ^

  16. #166
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    This pair of dry indigo began their life today. It was like trying to mould ply-wood around my legs putting them on this morning but already they have some give in them. I wore old shoes as I knew they'd bleed....and they did:

    Nudie Dry Indigo by David Douglas

    Nudie Dry Indigo by David Douglas

  17. #167
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    Those are seriously dark! Are they overdyed? I'm still wearing in some Momotaro jeans and they bleed blue dye onto my white quartz counters, even after a year! Haven't washed them yet....

  18. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Those are seriously dark! Are they overdyed? I'm still wearing in some Momotaro jeans and they bleed blue dye onto my white quartz counters, even after a year! Haven't washed them yet....
    Not over-dyed as far as I know. I had to cold-cycle them without detergent before wearing because the dye was piling out just handling them!

  19. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    This pair of dry indigo began their life today. It was like trying to mould ply-wood around my legs putting them on this morning but already they have some give in them. I wore old shoes as I knew they'd bleed....and they did:

    Nudie Dry Indigo by David Douglas

    Nudie Dry Indigo by David Douglas
    Are they a heavyweight denim David?.

    Cheers

  20. #170
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waldorf View Post
    Are they a heavyweight denim David?.

    Cheers
    They're about mid-weight at 14oz. Heavier than the high street jean but not as heavy as something like an Edwin ED55.

  21. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    They're about mid-weight at 14oz. Heavier than the high street jean but not as heavy as something like an Edwin ED55.
    Cheers. Look like nice jeans.

    ATB

  22. #172
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    Ya can't beat a pair of nice new jeans.

    My last pair of selvedge Hiut's are now 25 months old and still awaiting their first wash. Having said this they are a fantastic smart jean so don't get worn every month.

    Pitch

  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitch3110 View Post
    Ya can't beat a pair of nice new jeans.

    My last pair of selvedge Hiut's are now 25 months old and still awaiting their first wash. Having said this they are a fantastic smart jean so don't get worn every month.

    Pitch
    I agree. I have another dark pair of Nudie that I keep for 'good' and they've been washed once in two years. They're the perfect fit and colour for smart. I'll hammer these new ones though.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    This pair of dry indigo began their life today. It was like trying to mould ply-wood around my legs putting them on this morning but already they have some give in them. I wore old shoes as I knew they'd bleed....and they did:

    Nudie Dry Indigo by David Douglas

    Nudie Dry Indigo by David Douglas
    Really like the look of those. I currently wear Hiut hack, are those Nudie a similar fit. In fact can I ask what style/fit they are on the Nudie website?
    Thanks

  25. #175
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    They're Steady Eddie Dry Orange.

  26. #176
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    They're Steady Eddie Dry Orange.
    Thanks for the swift reply. Who comes up with these style names? Quality looking jeans
    Cheers

  27. #177
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    Anybody used Denimio?

    https://www.denimio.com

    I have a pair of Japan Blue which are a great fit but there aren't many stockists in the U.K.

  28. #178
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinch View Post
    Anybody used Denimio?

    https://www.denimio.com

    I have a pair of Japan Blue which are a great fit but there aren't many stockists in the U.K.
    Yes, once. Trouble free. Many denimheads seem to use them.

    Cheers
    Mabuse

  29. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mabuse View Post
    Yes, once. Trouble free. Many denimheads seem to use them.

    Cheers
    Mabuse
    That's good to know, I'm going to try them out for my next pair. Cheers.

  30. #180
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    Has anyone tried out or had experience of One Denim?

    They seem pretty cheap for Japanese selvedge jeans, with the old 'direct to consumer' selling strategy. I've never tried selvedge before but reading through this thread my interest in something else I never knew I needed until now has been piqued, so looking for a cheap(er) introduction perhaps into the selvedge denim world!

  31. #181
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    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers

  32. #182
    Quote Originally Posted by raptor View Post
    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers
    Mine didn't fit after being washed so go a bit bigger especially on the slim fit

  33. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belligero View Post
    While it's not quite central, Son of a Stag near Brick Lane has an excellent selection of quality denim and knowledgable staff..
    Son Of A Stag is actually my friends shop, let me know when you’re going as Ill sort a little discount for you.

    I have a lovely pair of £300 Full Count jeans upstairs the are like new if anyone is a 32 waist!
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  34. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by raptor View Post
    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers
    Yes they do but they donít age well
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  35. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    Son Of A Stag is actually my friends shop, let me know when youíre going as Ill sort a little discount for you.

    I have a lovely pair of £300 Full Count jeans upstairs the are like new if anyone is a 32 waist!
    I might just take you up on that if you don't mind! Great shop, after years of buying denim in Japan, I find out it's cheaper from Son of a Stag. They do good chain stitching and repairs too, my Samurai jeans are like Trigger's broom now...

  36. #186
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    Over the years denim has become one of my main passions, so very happy to see this thread spring back to life!

    It started with Hiut, the moved on to some lovely japanese heavy weight Iron Heart, I have just picked up some amazing Oni Demin direct from source via the japanese site denimio.com; very easy to deal with and shipping was completely hassle free. The mind boggling range of products can be navigated with some help from their online chat function.

    Because I do a bit of vlogging they gave me a 10% discount code; DEVONDENIMIO

  37. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post
    Over the years denim has become one of my main passions, so very happy to see this thread spring back to life!

    It started with Hiut, the moved on to some lovely japanese heavy weight Iron Heart, I have just picked up some amazing Oni Demin direct from source via the japanese site denimio.com; very easy to deal with and shipping was completely hassle free. The mind boggling range of products can be navigated with some help from their online chat function.

    Because I do a bit of vlogging they gave me a 10% discount code; DEVONDENIMIO
    Interesting! Have you had luck buying jeans online? I've always preferred to try them on first or at least take advice from shop owners on how much they shrink and fit.

  38. #188
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    Maybe we should start a fades thread (so to speak). Here are my Samurais, patched with a piece of a kimono using Sashiko stitching. The Samurais were a limited edition from a little shop in Osaka, that the guy designed with ridges in the back pocket to create wear patterns.

  39. #189
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Interesting! Have you had luck buying jeans online? I've always preferred to try them on first or at least take advice from shop owners on how much they shrink and fit.
    Living in Devon options to try on are limited, I got my IH from Rivet & Hide who provided a fantastic f2f experience including expert advice and free hemming. But once I had found a good fit and learnt how to measure the key dimensions (Waist, Rise, Thigh and Hem), I felt able to shop online with some confidence.

    Denimio have all the measurements of all their models and most can be bought washed or unwashed so you get a feel for how they may behave with wear stretching or shrinking respectively. They will provide additional guidance with live chat and I am certainly happy with the fit of the Oni's I just picked up. They do do free exchanges but I would want to avoid posting to japan if at all possible!
    Last edited by Snoopdong; 6th March 2019 at 23:52.

  40. #190
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    I like decent jeans but I have child bearing hips (code for a big arse) and a low tolerance to shopping so I've just ended up buying two pairs of discontinued Meyer Durham online because I knew they'd fit. At some point I'm going to go to Rivet and Hide though because I walk past it every weekday to and from work. I also walk past the Nudie store a lot which I've heard good things about

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  41. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post
    Living in Devon options to try on are limited, I got my IH from Rivet & Hide who provided a fantastic f2f experience including expert advice and free hemming. But once I had found a good fit and learnt how to measure the key dimensions (Waist, Rise, Thigh and Hem), I felt able to shop online with some confidence.

    Denimio have all the measurements of all their models and most can be bought washed or unwashed so you get a feel for how they may behave with wear stretching or shrinking respectively. They will provide additional guidance with live chat and I am certainly happy with the fit of the Oni's I just picked up. They do do free exchanges but I would want to avoid posting to japan if at all possible!
    Interesting! I've been into Rivet and Hide and they seemed nice enough but obviously a tiny selection compared to Son of a Stag. Sounds like I could spend a lot of time and money on that website so I had best avoid it...

  42. #192
    Any suggestions on what to try from the denimio website - only had some hiut so far (which are very nice)! I currently have the hack cut which seems to fit pretty well!

    Cheers

    Matt

  43. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattH View Post
    Any suggestions on what to try from the denimio website - only had some hiut so far (which are very nice)! I currently have the hack cut which seems to fit pretty well!

    Cheers

    Matt
    The brands that really interest me are Oni, Samurai, and Momotaro... these seemed to be iconic japanese brands.

    I picked up the Oni 902ZR in their 20oz secret denim, this is super slubby open weave and feels fantastic in a slim (ish) tapered cut, they have just released a 14oz version in the secret denim for the summer months. I also have a momotaro jacket on back order which will hopefully be shipped in April.

    Beyond the brands it is hard to make recommendations, but if you get your favorite jeans take some measurements and have a look around I am sure you will find whatever your heart desires; the guys on web chat I am sure will make some suggestions!

  44. #194
    Master mindforge's Avatar
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    Is that the going to battle jacket from Momotaro? I have two pairs of the jeans but have so far resisted the jacket... They are beautifully made.

  45. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Is that the going to battle jacket from Momotaro? I have two pairs of the jeans but have so far resisted the jacket... They are beautifully made.
    Yes, this one:
    https://www.denimio.com/momotaro-jea...et-jacket.html

    It seems to have a nice slim cut and a fairly long body that I was looking for.

  46. #196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post
    Yes, this one:
    https://www.denimio.com/momotaro-jea...et-jacket.html

    It seems to have a nice slim cut and a fairly long body that I was looking for.
    That's the one, nice. I saw it in Osaka. Still wearing in the current denim jacket I've had for years, takes much longer than jeans to break in...

  47. #197
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    Anyone pops in houseoffrazer need a big favour
    Need two of these in 34/34
    Their customer service does not respond to emails and their stock indication is stuck for months
    https://www.houseoffraser.co.uk/men/...7.pd#280059293

  48. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Maybe we should start a fades thread (so to speak). Here are my Samurais, patched with a piece of a kimono using Sashiko stitching. The Samurais were a limited edition from a little shop in Osaka, that the guy designed with ridges in the back pocket to create wear patterns.
    Your post has sent me on a journey of discovery on Sashiko repairs, really interesting and very much aligned with Kintsugo which I always found a beautiful aesthetic both in a literal sense and philosophically.

    Do you have any recommendations for resources for materials? (Thread and needle seems easy to source but the "right" kimono not so much!)

  49. #199
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    Just ordered 2 pairs of Hiut's, been wearing Nudie for ages but they're all approaching the end of their lives. Might see if i can get to hipster heartland to see what's in Son of a Stag.


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  50. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post
    Your post has sent me on a journey of discovery on Sashiko repairs, really interesting and very much aligned with Kintsugo which I always found a beautiful aesthetic both in a literal sense and philosophically.

    Do you have any recommendations for resources for materials? (Thread and needle seems easy to source but the "right" kimono not so much!)
    Glad to hear it!

    I'm afraid not, my wife is half Japanese so I just used an old kimono she had already. That's the point though, to use anything to hand. If you like the aesthetic check out the brand Kapital, available on Mr Porter, their shops are incredible in Japan too. RRL do some similar stuff as well.

    This is worth reading too,
    https://www.permanentstyle.com/2019/...-brooklyn.html

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