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Thread: Jeans Thread

  1. #101
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    Great Monkey boots too, Legend, years ahead of his time
    Agreed comedy gold


  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsgotournameonit View Post
    These without a shadow of a doubt. You will defiantly love these David.

    Now that's how to wear a pair of jeans!

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    Now that's how to wear a pair of jeans!
    Crap colour though, very 70's
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    Crap colour though, very 70's
    Yeah, cos we're looking at the colour!

  5. #105
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    very interesting read.

    I have always struggled with jeans due to being 6'5" and around the 36/38 waist (depending on breakfast & brand of jean!) also have big footballers thighs but calves of a supermodel!

    often hit Selfridges and try on about 20 pairs until i find a pair with a decent fit and then cry with joy. will have to hit a couple of the specialist stores to get some personal service as the current trending for skinnier fit just depresses me and some I can't even get my leg in, let alone try and do up.

    off to London for a day out next couple of weeks for me, sod's law the Mrs has gone today and i couldn't be arsed. also trying not to wash a couple of pairs until Thursday when i ended up wearing most of a portion of ribs and the associated sauce in my lap; no amount of freezing was preventing them from going in the wash.

  6. #106
    After trying out G star, Diesels, and Gap have gone back to levis. Bought two pairs after a 12 year gap of buying my last pair. Very pleased.

  7. #107
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    After years with levis and diesel, I now prefer Jack&Jones AT 529. Perfect straight/slim fit with classy amount of fade; lasered apparently. Check out Hawkdale belts too.. bargain handmade leather product.

  8. #108
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    Quite recently got into selvedge jeans. Brands which I can recommend and have also been mentioned are Edwin and A.P.C. Very impressed with the A.P.C's. However, as I've got 2 young (messy) kids and not wanting to wash them within a decent time frame, also shelled out on a cheaper pair of selvedge which I can also recommend...Unbranded jeans. Get excellent reviews for the money (65) and to be honest don't see much difference from the A.P.C jeans. The ones I got are 14oz but they also do a 21oz. Great way of getting into selvedge / raw jeans. Can't go wrong at that price point.

  9. #109
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    Little info on ONI Denim, had a few different jeans and all good at every price point but the real nerd denim is here its as much about how as what

    Talking about Oni Denim…
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  10. #110
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    My ONI Secret Denim are getting there slowly, first picture at End Jan and another 2 from today, still need the rest of the year before I think about a wash or rinse




    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
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  11. #111

  12. #112
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uriel View Post


    ??
    Close, Moustache Wax
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  13. #113
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    Breaking in nicely

  14. #114
    13 months, 1 soak and 2 washes.


  15. #115
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    Is a soak, simply the submersion of the jeans in a bath or similar to remove some of the dye and a wash involves the use of some sort of detergent?

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by smalleyboy1 View Post
    Is a soak, simply the submersion of the jeans in a bath or similar to remove some of the dye and a wash involves the use of some sort of detergent?

    Yes, usually you chose shower, rinse, or wash
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
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  17. #117
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    I am on my second pair of Hiut's and they are fantastically constructed jeans.

    SlimR's are my cut of choice but these have just been released...

    http://hiutdenim.co.uk/products/selvedge-denim-skinr

    Got to be worth a try.

    Pitch

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    Yes, usually you chose shower, rinse, or wash
    Do you wear them in the shower/bath then keep them on until dry or just soak them then wear them when dry??

    I've been tempted to buy some (probably Levi 501) selvedge jeans for ages but not sure if I can be arsed with all the flaffing about to be honest?!?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by spuds View Post
    Do you wear them in the shower/bath then keep them on until dry or just soak them then wear them when dry??

    I've been tempted to buy some (probably Levi 501) selvedge jeans for ages but not sure if I can be arsed with all the flaffing about to be honest?!?
    I wear for as long as I feel right, then Ill maybe shower them, either wearing or just loose, , wear them for another length of time and then just revert to normal washing. Its the early life that creates the fades
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
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  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    I wear for as long as I feel right, then Ill maybe shower them, either wearing or just loose, , wear them for another length of time and then just revert to normal washing. Its the early life that creates the fades
    Cool, thank you.

  21. #121
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    Time for a wash :(

    Right, I've resisted long enough. My Nudie Steady Eddie are 6 weeks short of a year old and I'm going to have to wash them for the first time.

    I love them, they're they comfiest jeans ever, but they're starting to smell.

    I'm gutted to be honest as I've put a lot of effort into them looking this grubby.

    So I'm going for a 30 degree wash with a small amount of detergent - unless anyone wants to advise me of a better way?

    Wish me luck.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    Right, I've resisted long enough. My Nudie Steady Eddie are 6 weeks short of a year old and I'm going to have to wash them for the first time.

    I love them, they're they comfiest jeans ever, but they're starting to smell.

    I'm gutted to be honest as I've put a lot of effort into them looking this grubby.

    So I'm going for a 30 degree wash with a small amount of detergent - unless anyone wants to advise me of a better way?

    Wish me luck.
    Bung em in the freezer for a day or two, buys you another few months before you need to wash them

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by demonloop View Post
    Bung em in the freezer for a day or two, buys you another few months before you need to wash them
    I've heard that before - how and why does that work?

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    I've heard that before - how and why does that work?
    Low temp kills your smelly germs?

    ;)

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomw2000 View Post
    Low temp kills your smelly germs?

    ;)
    Yes the low temperature kills the bacteria that's causing the smell, i'd give them a week them hang them out on the washing line to air

  26. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tomw2000 View Post
    Low temp kills your smelly germs?

    ;)
    Quote Originally Posted by saintsinner View Post
    Yes the low temperature kills the bacteria that's causing the smell, i'd give them a week them hang them out on the washing line to air
    Thanks, although I have to say it feels easier to just wash them when I'm going to have to do it at some point.

  27. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    Thanks, although I have to say it feels easier to just wash them when I'm going to have to do it at some point.
    true, you should have some decent fades by now?

  28. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by saintsinner View Post
    true, you should have some decent fades by now?
    Yep

  29. #129
    Febreze, not washing.

    Let's see a photo of the fades.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcus fenix View Post
    Febreze, not washing.

    Let's see a photo of the fades.



  31. #131
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    I like the idea of quality denim and I get that traditional fashion brands probably aren't the best at it - but...

    Do they all fade like that? I'd like a pair that would stay the same colour as when I bought them. I particularly don't like the wallet marks you seem to get in them. Are there any brands that don't fade?

  32. #132
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt666 View Post
    I like the idea of quality denim and I get that traditional fashion brands probably aren't the best at it - but...

    Do they all fade like that? I'd like a pair that would stay the same colour as when I bought them. I particularly don't like the wallet marks you seem to get in them. Are there any brands that don't fade?
    It's impossible for jeans not to fade as they're a dyed garment. When you wash them a proportion of the dye will wash out, hence the fade. If you don't wash them you'll gradually get crease and wear marks as the dye naturally comes out onto your hands, other garments, furniture etc.

    For minimum fade you're best buying the darkest indigo you can get and leaving at least a year between each wash to minimise fade. I have another pair of Nudie Raw Indigo Steady Eddie that I've had for a year that haven't been washed yet and they've still got their original colour and haven't got any crease or wear marks. Those ones might go two years between washes

    You'd be a very rich man if you could invent the fade-less denims.

  33. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by matt666 View Post
    I like the idea of quality denim and I get that traditional fashion brands probably aren't the best at it - but...

    Do they all fade like that? I'd like a pair that would stay the same colour as when I bought them. I particularly don't like the wallet marks you seem to get in them. Are there any brands that don't fade?
    If you don't want a wallet mark in them, don't put a wallet in your pocket..

    A raw denim product will develop fades and creases as you wear it.

    Of my denims Tellason seem to be the most resistant to denim fade by some considerable margin.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by saintsinner View Post
    If you don't want a wallet mark in them, don't put a wallet in your pocket..

    A raw denim product will develop fades and creases as you wear it.

    Of my denims Tellason seem to be the most resistant to denim fade by some considerable margin.
    My Tellasons have little honeycomb, whisker, or stacks but have got a strong Phone Fade and a Tin Fade on rear pocket
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  35. #135
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    I may be wrong but surely if you wash a pair of raw denim jeans they are no longer raw. So if you don't want them to fade wash or soak them immediately with cold water to set the dye, adding white vinegar also helps, apparently.

  36. #136
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    Did anyone see the C4 doc last night:
    http://www.channel4.com/programmes/t...mand/60800-002
    I just caught part of it and there was a feature on denim. One section involved the presenter buying half a dozen pairs of jeans with RRPs ranging from 10 to 200. They brought them to some tailor in London and asked him to rank them (blind to the price) in order of quality of construction and fabric quality. The tailor got them mostly right until he came to the top end of the price range - he thought the best pair was a pair that cost 45.
    Another but involved a visit to a jeans mega-factory in Turkey that makes jeans for retailers at all price levels. The cost of the cotton varies between about 3 per pair of jeans to, at most, about 8. They all cost around the same to make (less than 10), with those with fancy finishes and fake holes (fades made with sandpaper, holes cut by laser) being at the higher end.
    Much tittering from the factory rep when she was told that some of what they produce retails for the 200 mark.

    I guess a lot of the Tellasons (US made I think) and Japanese-derived selvedge denim involves slightly higher costs but still.

    However I suspect such margins are typical in the clothing business and it's probably even more so when manufacturing occurs in China.

  37. #137
    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    It's impossible for jeans not to fade as they're a dyed garment. When you wash them a proportion of the dye will wash out, hence the fade. If you don't wash them you'll gradually get crease and wear marks as the dye naturally comes out onto your hands, other garments, furniture etc.

    For minimum fade you're best buying the darkest indigo you can get and leaving at least a year between each wash to minimise fade. I have another pair of Nudie Raw Indigo Steady Eddie that I've had for a year that haven't been washed yet and they've still got their original colour and haven't got any crease or wear marks. Those ones might go two years between washes

    You'd be a very rich man if you could invent the fade-less denims.
    The dye doesn't come out of most dyed garments.

    Admittedly many are dyed at the thread (cotton, wool) stage but the principle is the same. Cotton is naturally (off?) white and sheep generally black, brown or white.

  38. #138
    Quote Originally Posted by Si View Post
    Did anyone see the C4 doc last night:
    http://www.channel4.com/programmes/t...mand/60800-002
    I just caught part of it and there was a feature on denim. One section involved the presenter buying half a dozen pairs of jeans with RRPs ranging from 10 to 200. They brought them to some tailor in London and asked him to rank them (blind to the price) in order of quality of construction and fabric quality. The tailor got them mostly right until he came to the top end of the price range - he thought the best pair was a pair that cost 45.
    Another but involved a visit to a jeans mega-factory in Turkey that makes jeans for retailers at all price levels. The cost of the cotton varies between about 3 per pair of jeans to, at most, about 8. They all cost around the same to make (less than 10), with those with fancy finishes and fake holes (fades made with sandpaper, holes cut by laser) being at the higher end.
    Much tittering from the factory rep when she was told that some of what they produce retails for the 200 mark.

    I guess a lot of the Tellasons (US made I think) and Japanese-derived selvedge denim involves slightly higher costs but still.

    However I suspect such margins are typical in the clothing business and it's probably even more so when manufacturing occurs in China.
    That's true of fashion brands that you'd find in typical non-specialist retail outlets.

    No surprise that that program found little correlation between cost and quality in the mass-market segment, though; the vast majority of commonly-available denim is indeed cheaply made, no matter whose label is on it.

    Specialist manufacturers do have higher costs. The difference is significant, as they use superior materials and involve a lot more hands-on techniques and it's not sweatshop labour. High-grade traditionally-produced Japanese, UK and American denim is manufactured on shuttle looms that are more expensive to operate than the common projectile loom.

    It's not necessary to spend a huge amount to get quality denim, either. Check out Naked & Famous, which is made in Canada from good Japanese fabric, and represents excellent value for money in my opinion. Not only does it look better, but the good stuff also lasts much longer, so I find it's cheaper in the long run, just like most quality items.

    Buy less and buy better.

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belligero View Post
    That's true of fashion brands that you'd find in typical non-specialist retail outlets.

    No surprise that that program found little correlation between cost and quality in the mass-market segment, though; the vast majority of commonly-available denim is indeed cheaply made, no matter whose label is on it.

    Specialist manufacturers do have higher costs. The difference is significant, as they use superior materials and involve a lot more hands-on techniques and it's not sweatshop labour. High-grade traditionally-produced Japanese, UK and American denim is manufactured on shuttle looms that are more expensive to operate than the common projectile loom.

    It's not necessary to spend a huge amount to get quality denim, either. Check out Naked & Famous, which is made in Canada from good Japanese fabric, and represents excellent value for money in my opinion. Not only does it look better, but the good stuff also lasts much longer, so I find it's cheaper in the long run, just like most quality items.

    Buy less and buy better.

    Agreed. Decent selvedge doesn't have to be expensive....

    The Unbranded Brand for example..

    http://www.liquorstoreclothing.com/t...nded-brand-m48

    Japanese Selvedge Jeans for the price of a poorly made massed produced pair of Levi's

  40. #140
    I saw that show. The Savile Row tailor, Richard Anderson (who charges around 5k for a Japanese Denim suit) was unable to tell the difference between 2 pairs of jeans priced at 180 and 45.
    There are still numerous sources of US made selvedge starting at around $79, and if you wear and wash them they will develop a natural patina without all the daft iGent routines.
    Last edited by bonzo697; 19th November 2015 at 10:04.

  41. #141
    I wear Levi 501's and picked up another 2 pairs from Costco yesterday. At 35 a pair a real bargain to be honest.

    Don't see myself spending more than that on jeans though

  42. #142
    I seldom wear jeans anymore. When I do, theyre Levis 201 from the 1999 remake. So not classic classic but better than the later remakes by some margin

  43. #143
    Quote Originally Posted by saintsinner View Post
    Agreed. Decent selvedge doesn't have to be expensive....

    The Unbranded Brand for example..

    http://www.liquorstoreclothing.com/t...nded-brand-m48

    Japanese Selvedge Jeans for the price of a poorly made massed produced pair of Levi's
    Thanks; hadn't heard of them before. Those look legit.

    While I'm so keen on the Chinese manufacturing (which they conspicuously avoid mentioning on their site), I believe Macau is one of the less sweatshoppy cities. Though I'd still rather go for Canadian manufacture, it's always good to know of alternatives.

  44. #144
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    Tempting short run from Hiut. I love their Regular cut.

    http://hiutdenim.co.uk/collections/s...un?gender=mens

  45. #145
    Quote Originally Posted by Belligero View Post
    Thanks; hadn't heard of them before. Those look legit.

    While I'm so keen on the Chinese manufacturing (which they conspicuously avoid mentioning on their site), I believe Macau is one of the less sweatshoppy cities. Though I'd still rather go for Canadian manufacture, it's always good to know of alternatives.

    Gustin make their selvedge denim in the USA and they are pretty decent and reasonably priced. I think I paid $79 for my pair.

  46. #146
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    Gustin seem to make some great stuff, what is the sizing like .

  47. #147
    That's true of fashion brands that you'd find in typical non-specialist retail outlets.

    No surprise that that program found little correlation between cost and quality in the mass-market segment, though; the vast majority of commonly-available denim is indeed cheaply made, no matter whose label is on it.


    agreed, most fashion brands are no better than primark and that includes levis, diesel, supadry and all those other high street names. Edwin and Albam and many others make decent selvage denim that while expensive (100) they seem to last and wear much better than a similar priced pair of Replay etc made from inferior denim. i get years out of a pair of ED55s (selvage)

  48. #148
    Quote Originally Posted by MrSmith View Post
    agreed, most fashion brands are no better than primark and that includes levis, diesel, supadry and all those other high street names. Edwin and Albam and many others make decent selvage denim that while expensive (100) they seem to last and wear much better than a similar priced pair of Replay etc made from inferior denim. i get years out of a pair of ED55s (selvage)
    Definitely.

    I don't blame the companies for producing such junk, by the way all they really want is our money. If we as consumers would start showing some interest in where our products come from and how they're made, there wouldn't be much incentive for companies to produce crap. As long as we accept low quality, they'll happily provide it, and that applies to anything we buy.

    It's worth mentioning that although the vast majority of Levi's products are indeed rather poorly-made, their LVC denim is a notable exception.

    Quote Originally Posted by sweeney View Post
    Gustin make their selvedge denim in the USA and they are pretty decent and reasonably priced. I think I paid $79 for my pair.
    Good info thanks! That appears to be another quality alternative that's priced not to scare off people who aren't familiar with how superior and more durable good denim actually is.

  49. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrSmith View Post
    That's true of fashion brands that you'd find in typical non-specialist retail outlets.

    No surprise that that program found little correlation between cost and quality in the mass-market segment, though; the vast majority of commonly-available denim is indeed cheaply made, no matter whose label is on it.


    agreed, most fashion brands are no better than primark and that includes levis, diesel, supadry and all those other high street names. Edwin and Albam and many others make decent selvage denim that while expensive (100) they seem to last and wear much better than a similar priced pair of Replay etc made from inferior denim. i get years out of a pair of ED55s (selvage)

    Edwin's quality has taken a dive IMO, since they switched some of there production to Turkey and tried to move towards the High St.

  50. #150
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    i've always worn 501s but when levi brought out their lvc range I started to wear their 1933...1937 and 1920 201 versions. really enjoying them. I like to wash them regularly, but to each their own.
    Last edited by johny; 19th November 2015 at 19:13.

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