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Thread: Jeans Thread

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  1. #1
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Jeans Thread

    On the back of a couple of related threads I've started to take an interest in denim this year, or more specifically, jeans.

    I've always loved a good pair of jeans and have been buying labels (Paul Smith, Armani, Levi etc) for the last 20-odd years thinking they were the best denim to buy but wondering why none of them really fit me as well as I'd hoped.

    I know there are proper denim geeks out there and I'm not remotely one of those but, having bought my first pair of jeans possibly ever that genuinely fit me, I now see what the fuss is about.

    So I wondered if there would be the appetite for a thread where people could post pics of their new pair and then update pics at intervals during the breaking in period?

    If there is then I'll start it off with pics of my Nudie Steady Eddies that are now two weeks into that process and getting more and more comfortable by the day. They're an 11.5oz dry organic denim that I intend to wear for at least 6 months before washing them for the first time.

    I find the wearing-in and fading process fascinating in respect of every pair will wear and fade differently based on the shape and usage of the owner.

    So, any interest?

    David
    Last edited by TaketheCannoli; 23rd November 2014 at 21:46.

  2. #2
    Apprentice R170's Avatar
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    This could be interesting.

    I have always been a fan of Levi 501, which I enjoy more as they get faded and worn
    I have also found great comfort on Tommy Hilfiger jeans but don't find them as durable as their Levi counterparts

  3. #3
    Master smalleyboy1's Avatar
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    I bought two pairs of Hiut's in April this year, one Hacka and one Works. I alternate between them each day and so far so good on the breaking in process. Love their fit and will probably try to go longer than 6 months, or 12 months due to having two new pairs, before I do the first wash.

  4. #4
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
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    Is the search function not working?

  5. #5
    Craftsman saintsinner's Avatar
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    jeans are a very personal thing, what fits one may not fit another.. have tried a fair few and have a few in my wardrobe, Tellason Gustave, Unbranded UB101's, but my favourite's are Leftfield Chelsea's which i find are a decent rise and a comfortable tapered fit

  6. #6
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by saintsinner View Post
    jeans are a very personal thing, what fits one may not fit another.. have tried a fair few and have a few in my wardrobe, Tellason Gustave, Unbranded UB101's, but my favourite's are Leftfield Chelsea's which i find are a decent rise and a comfortable tapered fit
    Spot on, no point making a suggestion I tried on around 20 different pairs yesterday and only 2-3 were suitable to start the process, I like to have a little overlap but I intend wearing the ONI all day everyday for the next year
    RIAC

  7. #7
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    Great idea, I hopped on the bandwagon with Hiut in April too, I have a pair of Hack Organics.

    I wore them almost daily (albeit often only in the evening after work) for 6 months before the first wash, and am now waiting for the next on the first aniversary.

    I have some photos knocking around somewhere and also some video; I really wanted to document the process even if only for my interest. I haven't edited the washing video together because it is rather dull and the fades weren't that notable. I was a little disheartened at the time, but they seemed to get stronger quite quickly after this first wash.

    One thing to note, is that raw denim feels very stiff to begin with but not only breaks in but also does stretch. So do consider buying small or tight jeans as these I think will end up fitting best. My Hiuts are 33 waist, but are now needing a belt, I am looking for a slimmer cut and also downsizing on my next purchase, probably the modestly priced Levi's 511 Selvage in 32.

    If you want serious fades, check out "swissjeansfreak" on instagram; quite loopy!
    Regards
    Chris

  8. #8
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post

    One thing to note, is that raw denim feels very stiff to begin with but not only breaks in but also does stretch. So do consider buying small or tight jeans as these I think will end up fitting best.
    I did that this time, I'm usually a 33 or 34 waist and this time bought a 32 which were snug at first but are now loosening up nicely.

  9. #9
    Master Mouse's Avatar
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    I am very fussy about my jeans - live in them. For most of my life it had to be zip fly Levi. No other brand would do. But, in recent years, my shape has changed (not for the better I might add!) and it now has to be Wrangler Texas Stretch which are just incredibly comfortable and fit me perfectly :-)

  10. #10
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post

    So I wondered if there would be the appetite for a thread where people could post pics of their new pair and then update pics at intervals during the breaking in period?

    If there is then I'll start it off with pics of my Nudie Steady Eddies that are now two weeks into that process and getting more and more comfortable by the day. They're an 11.5oz dry organic denim that I intend to wear for at least 6 months before washing them for the first time.

    I find the wearing-in and fading process fascinating in respect of every pair will wear and fade differently based on the shape and usage of the owner.

    So, any interest?

    David
    You wont need 6 months to break 11oz its a 30 day job, I find that 14.75oz take 3-4 months and 16-17oz about 6-9 months depending on how worn. Im about 2 months in on a pair of 14.75oz Tellasons that Ive worn 50 or so days total, slowly getting there

    RIAC

  11. #11
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    You wont need 6 months to break 11oz its a 30 day job,
    I only tend to wear mine at weekends as I'm suited through the week so 6 months feels about right at twice weekly wear.

  12. #12
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
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    Oh Christ here we go again with the denim thread, £300 pair of jeans anyone?

  13. #13
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by number2 View Post
    Oh Christ here we go again with the denim thread, £300 pair of jeans anyone?
    Not at all, my Nudies were £89. And I don't recall anyone saying "oh Christ here we go again with the watch thread, £5k watch anyone?"

    Double standards for sure.

    Anyway, I started this thread so here are mine with 10 days worth of wear and they were very stiff on day one. I'll be back after three months with an update:







    David

  14. #14
    Master MFB Scotland's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by number2 View Post
    Oh Christ here we go again with the denim thread, £300 pair of jeans anyone?
    Put your can of special brew down and go to bed. It will stop you spoiling threads.

  15. #15
    Master MFB Scotland's Avatar
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    I usually buy Diesel or Replay but still love Gstar. At 43 is my time limited ?
    Last edited by MFB Scotland; 23rd November 2014 at 21:50.

  16. #16
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MFB Scotland View Post
    Put your can of special brew down and go to bed. It will stop you spoiling threads.
    I'm assuming you don't know how the search function works

    http://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.ph...ighlight=jeans


  17. #17
    Does everyone avoid washing their premium denim?

    Whilst I appreciate a general faded look I can't stand the creased knees etc which to me just look scruffy. Just old I guess.

  18. #18
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kingstepper View Post
    Does everyone avoid washing their premium denim?
    Yes. Marks can be (mostly) dry rubbed away. If you want to wash them then wash cold with no detergent, unless of course they smell rank and then just wash them with detergent.

  19. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by TaketheCannoli View Post
    Yes. Marks can be (mostly) dry rubbed away. If you want to wash them then wash cold with no detergent, unless of course they smell rank and then just wash them with detergent.
    Yes, realise that there are alternatives (including the freezer) but wondered if everyone likes the creased look.

  20. #20
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kingstepper View Post
    Yes, realise that there are alternatives (including the freezer) but wondered if everyone likes the creased look.
    Sorry, yes I do like the creased look.

  21. #21
    Grand Master
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    The main attraction of raw denim is the fades coupled with the enhanced fit, I have a pair that haven't ever been washed, they are a bit rank but a night in the freezer usually makes them bearable again to wear on the bike etc.

    Regarding the comment by number 2 please bore off if you have something useful to say then please contribute but dont do what you always do and what is arguably ruining this forum and hit the 'negative troll' button everytime you are bored, people spend what they like on what they want.
    RIAC

  22. #22
    Master
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    Always used to be Levi 501's.........Now it is Wrangler Texas (Non stretch).

  23. #23
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    Like the idea of raw denim but the reports of getting the sizing and shrinkage wrong puts me off when I'm forking out that sort of money.

  24. #24
    Master smalleyboy1's Avatar
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    I agree that the sizing thing can be off putting but with the distance selling rules, you can order what you fancy and if they don't fit, the retailer is legally bound to refund your money provided you return the goods within 10 days (I think) of receipt. Yes you might have the hassle of parcelling them back up and paying a bit of postage but if you live somewhere which doesn't have a selection of raw denim available, it is your best choice.

  25. #25
    I'm guessing if modern selvedge is still shrink-fit that you have to walk about in jeans two sizes too big?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonzo697 View Post
    I'm guessing if modern selvedge is still shrink-fit that you have to walk about in jeans two sizes too big?
    They vary. Manufacturers will tell you if they're sanforized or unsaforized.

    I'm a big fan of Edwin and Nudie. Still breaking in my latest pair of Edwin selvage ED-55's. It takes a while seeing as I don't wear them that often.

  27. #27
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    A lot depends on whether you want jeans to fit you or are just happy to wear them regardless. I've not got much of an arse (although I'm told it's perfectly formed ) so jeans tend to reveal a bit of crack once they're worn in if I'm not careful.

    When I bought this pair of Nudie I actually went in for the Edwin ED-55s purely based on the feel, cut and weight. But try as I might I cannot get a pair of Edwin to fit me well enough, or any other brand other than Nudie for that matter. Nudie seem to be more about fit than other brands and offer more fit options. I need jeans with a higher back pocket and yolk to sit much higher around the bottom of my back and these Steady Eddies are the best I've ever owned.

    I know you're thinking Simon Cowell jeans!

    David

  28. #28
    Grand Master
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    RIAC

  29. #29
    Grand Master Daddelvirks's Avatar
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    501

    Got my first one when I was 14, never looked back :)

    Daddel.
    Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!

  30. #30
    Grand Master
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    Yeah think so. Did around 6-7 months straight in some lighter weight tellasons
    RIAC

  31. #31
    Master raptor's Avatar
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    Lee 101z

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by raptor View Post
    Lee 101z
    Same here love the 101z and the 101j jacket is a true classic too

  33. #33
    Master
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    As I am short of leg and large of belly, I often struggle to find good fitting jeans. However, I have recently bought my first pair of 501's. Must say, I have never had a more comfy pair.

  34. #34
    I wear Levi 501's and picked up another 2 pairs from Costco yesterday. At £35 a pair a real bargain to be honest.

    Don't see myself spending more than that on jeans though

  35. #35
    I seldom wear jeans anymore. When I do, theyre Levis 201 from the 1999 remake. So not classic classic but better than the later remakes by some margin

  36. #36
    Master mindforge's Avatar
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    Those are seriously dark! Are they overdyed? I'm still wearing in some Momotaro jeans and they bleed blue dye onto my white quartz counters, even after a year! Haven't washed them yet....

  37. #37
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Those are seriously dark! Are they overdyed? I'm still wearing in some Momotaro jeans and they bleed blue dye onto my white quartz counters, even after a year! Haven't washed them yet....
    Not over-dyed as far as I know. I had to cold-cycle them without detergent before wearing because the dye was piling out just handling them!

  38. #38
    Master raptor's Avatar
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    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers

  39. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by raptor View Post
    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers
    Mine didn't fit after being washed so go a bit bigger especially on the slim fit

  40. #40
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by raptor View Post
    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers
    Yes they do but they don’t age well
    RIAC

  41. #41
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    Over the years denim has become one of my main passions, so very happy to see this thread spring back to life!

    It started with Hiut, the moved on to some lovely japanese heavy weight Iron Heart, I have just picked up some amazing Oni Demin direct from source via the japanese site denimio.com; very easy to deal with and shipping was completely hassle free. The mind boggling range of products can be navigated with some help from their online chat function.

    Because I do a bit of vlogging they gave me a 10% discount code; DEVONDENIMIO

  42. #42
    Master mindforge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post
    Over the years denim has become one of my main passions, so very happy to see this thread spring back to life!

    It started with Hiut, the moved on to some lovely japanese heavy weight Iron Heart, I have just picked up some amazing Oni Demin direct from source via the japanese site denimio.com; very easy to deal with and shipping was completely hassle free. The mind boggling range of products can be navigated with some help from their online chat function.

    Because I do a bit of vlogging they gave me a 10% discount code; DEVONDENIMIO
    Interesting! Have you had luck buying jeans online? I've always preferred to try them on first or at least take advice from shop owners on how much they shrink and fit.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Interesting! Have you had luck buying jeans online? I've always preferred to try them on first or at least take advice from shop owners on how much they shrink and fit.
    Living in Devon options to try on are limited, I got my IH from Rivet & Hide who provided a fantastic f2f experience including expert advice and free hemming. But once I had found a good fit and learnt how to measure the key dimensions (Waist, Rise, Thigh and Hem), I felt able to shop online with some confidence.

    Denimio have all the measurements of all their models and most can be bought washed or unwashed so you get a feel for how they may behave with wear stretching or shrinking respectively. They will provide additional guidance with live chat and I am certainly happy with the fit of the Oni's I just picked up. They do do free exchanges but I would want to avoid posting to japan if at all possible!
    Last edited by Snoopdong; 6th March 2019 at 23:52.

  44. #44
    Grand Master Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raptor View Post
    Does anyone know if uniqlo selvedge wear true to size?
    Cheers
    My 33" waist, 32" leg selvedge jeans have been excellent. 2yrs old now and still good.

  45. #45
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    My first pair of Uniqlo selvedge arrived today and I'm amazed by the quality for the money. Waist fits true to size.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rod View Post
    My 33" waist, 32" leg selvedge jeans have been excellent. 2yrs old now and still good.

  46. #46
    Master mindforge's Avatar
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    Maybe we should start a fades thread (so to speak). Here are my Samurais, patched with a piece of a kimono using Sashiko stitching. The Samurais were a limited edition from a little shop in Osaka, that the guy designed with ridges in the back pocket to create wear patterns.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by mindforge View Post
    Maybe we should start a fades thread (so to speak). Here are my Samurais, patched with a piece of a kimono using Sashiko stitching. The Samurais were a limited edition from a little shop in Osaka, that the guy designed with ridges in the back pocket to create wear patterns.
    Your post has sent me on a journey of discovery on Sashiko repairs, really interesting and very much aligned with Kintsugo which I always found a beautiful aesthetic both in a literal sense and philosophically.

    Do you have any recommendations for resources for materials? (Thread and needle seems easy to source but the "right" kimono not so much!)

  48. #48
    Master mindforge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snoopdong View Post
    Your post has sent me on a journey of discovery on Sashiko repairs, really interesting and very much aligned with Kintsugo which I always found a beautiful aesthetic both in a literal sense and philosophically.

    Do you have any recommendations for resources for materials? (Thread and needle seems easy to source but the "right" kimono not so much!)
    Glad to hear it!

    I'm afraid not, my wife is half Japanese so I just used an old kimono she had already. That's the point though, to use anything to hand. If you like the aesthetic check out the brand Kapital, available on Mr Porter, their shops are incredible in Japan too. RRL do some similar stuff as well.

    This is worth reading too,
    https://www.permanentstyle.com/2019/...-brooklyn.html

  49. #49
    Master
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    New Hiuts

    Well then, fellow denim aficionados, my 2 prs Hiut's have just arrived. I have one pair of Work Selvedge and one pair of Hack Selvedge. I followed the measuring instructions on the site and both pairs fit well, the relaxed fit is more relaxed, and the slim is err, slimmer. So far so good.

    So what happens now?

    Will they stretch?
    They feel pretty comfortable - what's all this about break in?
    Do I need to sit in the bath with them on?
    I ordered 34/32, they come up a bit long in the leg - is that so I can do the turn up thing? If I don't want the turn up, is it socially acceptable to turn them up on the inside?
    It says don't wash them for 6 months. How does that translate into wear-days?
    They're 14.5oz denim, but they don't feel any different to my Nudie's
    Will I be able to walk into Shoreditch and be accepted as an equal, or will the hipsters suss me out?

  50. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by berin View Post
    Well then, fellow denim aficionados, my 2 prs Hiut's have just arrived. I have one pair of Work Selvedge and one pair of Hack Selvedge. I followed the measuring instructions on the site and both pairs fit well, the relaxed fit is more relaxed, and the slim is err, slimmer. So far so good.

    So what happens now?

    Will they stretch?
    They feel pretty comfortable - what's all this about break in?
    Do I need to sit in the bath with them on?
    I ordered 34/32, they come up a bit long in the leg - is that so I can do the turn up thing? If I don't want the turn up, is it socially acceptable to turn them up on the inside?
    It says don't wash them for 6 months. How does that translate into wear-days?
    They're 14.5oz denim, but they don't feel any different to my Nudie's
    Will I be able to walk into Shoreditch and be accepted as an equal, or will the hipsters suss me out?

    Turn ups on the inside? Maybe get them pressed with a nice crease down the middle while you are at it? :-)

    Turning them under looks like a solicitor on dress down Friday, apologies if you are a solicitor.

    They will stretch out a bit with wear but shrink back a little on their first wash. Leave it as long as you can before first wash, watch out for transfer of indigo onto furnishings and other clothes but I doubt Hiut overdye massively.
    If they are overlong you can get them shortened and chain stitched but do that after any shrinkage, I just roll the turn up.

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