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Thread: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

  1. #1
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    Patek Philippe Annual Calendar

    Right in trying to plot an endgame and a way of ending my investment in watches. Enough is enough, I'm very happy with my daily wearer the Daytona, love my sporty rugged Overseas. But need a yellow or rose gold Annual Calendar to finish it off.... for at least a year as money needs to go elsewhere than fueling my fanaticism.


    So what we've got to choose from are

    The 5035 released in 1996 was the first a annual calendar watch. An annual calendar complication only needs to be reset once annually on the 1st of March each year. It can count to 30/31 days depending on the month, it also displays the day of the week, the month of the year and with the 24 hour dial if it's am or pm. The dial also has Roman Numerals with lume applied to the markers. At 37mm the dial is just 1mm smaller than my Calatrava, but the slightly thicker case makes the overall size very similar. It would be the perfect size for a dress watch, but also given the complication it makes the perfect "one watch" or a good balance to a 2 or 3 watch collection.







    In 2005 the 5146 launched with some changes, firstly it is bigger at 39mm, it has removed the 24 hour dial to be replaced with the moon phase, really an aesthetic only complication. While also introducing the very useful power reserve indicator. Given how setting the date requires the pusher pen knowing when your watch needs a wind is a useful thing. The hour markers also changed with arabic numberals at 3,6,9 replacing the roman numerals from the 5035



    In 2010 Patek released 5205 which is a cleaner looking more modern annual calendar, with a 24 hour dial and moon phase. It screams modern Patek due to the 40mm two tone dial, the day date month aperatures, everything comes together to make this piece almost perfect. The almost is tempered by the case thickness and one must think that high on a future version of this model will be the thinning of the movement and the case thickness.





    For me the 5035 & 5146 need to be in rose or yellow gold as it really suits them to give a classic look to the classic looking dials. While the more modern 5205 works in white gold too due to the two tone dial and modern looking aperatures.


    Or Maybe the 5396 which crams the same complications as the 5205 into 38mm





    I know some of you own one of the above watches and some pros/cons and view points on them all would be welcome.

  2. #2
    Master Tony-GB's Avatar
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    5205 with lighter coloured dial. The black looks difficult to tell the time.

  3. #3
    Master
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    Now thats a quandary i want to have.
    Personally on looks alone it would be between the 5146 and 5396. Cant put my finger on why though!

  4. #4
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    5205 is a bit on the big side though at 40mm and with case thickness seen here

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgr-kqATiZc

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by waiteu2 View Post
    Now thats a quandary i want to have...
    Me too! Fair play though :)
    For me, the 5396 - based purely on aesthetics. Best of luck with your choice!

  6. #6
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    I think sizewise the 5146 would probably be the sweet spot. Also rightly or wrongly I think it looks more classic in yellow gold.

    Found a nice review of it on youtube

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wwp1zhFw990


    But I know one or two on here own one.

  7. #7
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    For me they are all great, with the exception of the 5205. Don't know what they were thinking with that one. The dial is all over the place. If I had to choose I would go for the 5396 by a fair margin.

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    5396 is my choice of those,

  9. #9
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    This is a fun hobby. I don't understand why so many people seem keen to "end" it.

    Out of those the 5396 is a cut above the others and it gets my vote.

  10. #10
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    5146 or 5396 for me.

    Here is mine:



    The 5146 is a great size and thickness and I find I can wear it with casual attire or dressed up.
    I love the 5396 but the case is very thick and sits high on the wrist. For me the dial is my favourite of all the ac s but it felt too dressy, with the thick polished sides and flat bezel to be worn only for special occassions. I do love it though!

  11. #11
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    Ok while I accept the 5396 is the nicest, it's too bloody expensive no wonder everyone is picking it!!

    There is a £4k difference between each of the 5035, 5146 and the 5396.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    Ok while I accept the 5396 is the nicest, it's too bloody expensive no wonder everyone is picking it!!

    There is a £4k difference between each of the 5035, 5146 and the 5396.
    It is pricey! I tried one in Berrys, Leeds recently. Pre owned, 6 months old, I think it was £29000.

  13. #13
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    Very nice Cinch, versatility is important to me so I do agree with you on the 5396 being very dressy with its clean dial. How big it wears would also be a concern.

    I see you've got the white gold 5146, I've made the decision I'm going to go for yellow or rose gold whichever I choose.


    But where Rose Gold is more modern I feel that yellow gold suits the classic looking dial of the 5396 & 5035 better. What do you think? Does a certain colour gold suit different models better or is it down to personal preference?

  14. #14
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    I prefer white gold in nearly all cases, however the picture of the 5035 you posted looks great. It's a very nice watch. I seem to remember seeing one in Dave Duggans window, it does look very nice and should be a serious contender for you.

  15. #15
    5396 is by far the nicest.

    Roman numerals are just naff. Sorry, but they are, so that discounts the 5035. The day/month text never sit right with me on the 5146, just too much wonky, uneven spacing going on trying to accommodate different width/visual density of the various letters. That and the power reserve is unnecessary and it's implementation neither something or nowt. The 5205 would be nice apart from the awkward spacing of the day and month windows. It looks like they've just slipped down the dial and landed up against the batons.

    5396 is pretty much spot on.

  16. #16
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    5396 is off the table because I just feel like skipping the 5035/5146 is wrong somehow, as daft as that sounds. I can get a 5396 down the line.

    There is a 5035 and 5146 on Bond Street so I can go have a dander and look before I go on holidays then have a think about it.

    Cinch my Calatrava is in white gold, I've never owned a yellow or rose gold watch so really want something classic feeling and for me yellow gold is the most classic to me.


    Cheers for the input guys.

  17. #17
    Master DB9yeti's Avatar
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    5146 in yellow gold is the quintessential PP for me. Love the addition of the moonphase, the PR, it has everything I want.

    I want!

  18. #18
    Yeah, like once you buy one of those you're going to stop!

    It would give you an awesome collection, but are you *sure* you don't want an Audemars Piguet?!

  19. #19
    Craftsman Packer's Avatar
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    I think I'm in love with the 5396.
    Just made the mistake of looking up how much these cost... nearly choked on my dinner.
    :)

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DB9yeti View Post
    5146 in yellow gold is the quintessential PP for me. Love the addition of the moonphase, the PR, it has everything I want.

    I want!
    The moonphase did draw me to the 5146 and personally I like the power reserve function, it's handy!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinch View Post
    The moonphase did draw me to the 5146 and personally I like the power reserve function, it's handy!
    Same here, personally power reserve indicator is one of my favourite complications, along with gmt/second time and funnily enough annual calendar.

    Chronographs are not useful as I'd use my phone for timing anything, but I like them aesthetically. Especially the Daytona, Chono RO & Overseas.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Traveller View Post
    Yeah, like once you buy one of those you're going to stop!

    It would give you an awesome collection, but are you *sure* you don't want an Audemars Piguet?!

    I've got the distraction of the National Hunt racing season starting in October and so my energies as you know go into that until April. At least I can stop until then!!!


    I still do want a Royal Oak though ..... despite just having got the Vacheron Overseas.

  23. #23
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    5146 is the prettiest to my eye, achingly stylish and subtle. Also somehow the most "Patek" looking - although I couldn't begin to explain why!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    Ok while I accept the 5396 is the nicest, it's too bloody expensive no wonder everyone is picking it!!

    There is a £4k difference between each of the 5035, 5146 and the 5396.
    I am not the one paying for it but I do like the 5146.

    However, considering the standard you have in your collection, if you're going to stop for a while shouldn't you look at a perpetual calendar? Something like a 5140 or 3940, or the newer, more modern looking 5216?





    Yes, I know, I am not helping.



    Sorry

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inspector71 View Post
    5146 is the prettiest to my eye, achingly stylish and subtle. Also somehow the most "Patek" looking - although I couldn't begin to explain why!
    Quote Originally Posted by DB9yeti View Post
    5146 in yellow gold is the quintessential PP for me. Love the addition of the moonphase, the PR, it has everything I want.

    I want!


    I agree 100% with you both. It looks the most like a classic Patek, where date aperatures of the 5205 & 5396 look very modern. The sub dual layout of the 5146 makes it feel so classic, which is why rose gold is the wrong colour gold for it. Yellow (or white) is the only one that suits the overall aesthetic of the dial. While the Roman Numerals are the one part of the 5035 which look a bit too of its time, as in 90s attempt to look classic.

    5146 leading the pack. Will have a poke down to Bond street. Wish Patek would just finish work on their store already!!


    I do love the 5140 but that is for a date down the road. As I said I don't want to "skip" a Patek on the ladder.

  26. #26
    Another vote for the 5146! The moon phase ...

  27. #27
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    On the basis that you're looking at a £25K outlay, and PP doesn't blow me away, here's a few alternatives you might be swayed by, to leave your PP pursuit until the 5140 funding is in place.

    https://www.chrono24.com/en/girardpe...-id2646592.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/corum/ad...-id2316374.htm – hesitant to suggest this one as it's lacking day wheel/indicator.
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/blancpai...-id2806927.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/alangeso...-id2817970.htm

    If we step into the realm of PCs, for less money into the bargain as well, then….

    https://www.chrono24.com/en/glashuet...-id2739507.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/glashuet...-id2370458.htm

    ….and in place of the 5140, one option might be…..

    https://www.chrono24.com/en/debethun...-id2797040.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/fpjourne...-id1823860.htm

    Platinum included even though you were looking for rose/yellow gold – it'd be rude to dismiss them purely on material colour.
    You really ought to give the ALS a serious look over, and the GO PCs…….well, nothing more needs to be said on them.

  28. #28
    5035 of those. But if it was my choice, and I already owned a Calatrava, I'd probably go for the annual calendar form in this one :



    Nice ( very First World.. ) problem to have,

    Paul

  29. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Saint-Just View Post

    However, considering the standard you have in your collection, if you're going to stop for a while shouldn't you look at a perpetual calendar? Something like a 5140 or 3940, or the newer, more modern looking 5216?



    Yes, I know, I am not helping.

    Sorry
    Though slightly off topic my thoughts too were that a Perpetual Calendar was worth considering.

    Of these two I opted for the 3940R because I preferred the dial graphics over those of the newer 5140. A decision I have not regretted for a moment. And as complications go, a PC is at a logical concluding point with less risk of encountering the "If only I'd paid bit more for the...." school of escalation.

  30. #30
    Putting those two side by side makes the dial on the right look like a cheap Chinese knock-off.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uriel View Post
    Putting those two side by side makes the dial on the right look like a cheap Chinese knock-off.
    It just shows how little we know, doesn't it?

  32. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Uriel View Post
    Putting those two side by side makes the dial on the right look like a cheap Chinese knock-off.
    Agreed; the 5140's dial is ineptly designed.

    The closer you look, the worse it gets. It's an absolute mess:


  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by lowndes View Post
    Though slightly off topic my thoughts too were that a Perpetual Calendar was worth considering.

    Of these two I opted for the 3940R because I preferred the dial graphics over those of the newer 5140. A decision I have not regretted for a moment. And as complications go, a PC is at a logical concluding point with less risk of encountering the "If only I'd paid bit more for the...." school of escalation.
    I agree completely. A Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar is the real end of the line - in my opinion - for watch owning. As I've stated earlier, a chronograph especially on a non sports watch just serves me no purpose. I think on a sports watch they are very aesthetically pleasing and are a sporty complication anyway.

    Also as stated elsewhere the Royal Oak is the ultimate sports watch for me, as history is key to me and the Nautilus comes firmly second to it as does all sports watches.

    But for the dress watch, the perpetual Calendar is the pinnacle. As much as a Minute Repeater is amazingly fun, telling the time from chimes is slightly dated.

    Who wouldn't feel like they've reached the end if they owned a 3940 and a RO 15202?

  34. #34
    The 5205 followed by the 5146

    Really can't go wrong with either of those imho

  35. #35
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    5396 gets my vote. symmetry is great.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by PJ S View Post
    On the basis that you're looking at a £25K outlay, and PP doesn't blow me away, here's a few alternatives you might be swayed by, to leave your PP pursuit until the 5140 funding is in place.

    https://www.chrono24.com/en/girardpe...-id2646592.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/corum/ad...-id2316374.htm – hesitant to suggest this one as it's lacking day wheel/indicator.
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/blancpai...-id2806927.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/alangeso...-id2817970.htm

    If we step into the realm of PCs, for less money into the bargain as well, then….

    https://www.chrono24.com/en/glashuet...-id2739507.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/glashuet...-id2370458.htm

    ….and in place of the 5140, one option might be…..

    https://www.chrono24.com/en/debethun...-id2797040.htm
    https://www.chrono24.com/en/fpjourne...-id1823860.htm

    Platinum included even though you were looking for rose/yellow gold – it'd be rude to dismiss them purely on material colour.
    You really ought to give the ALS a serious look over, and the GO PCs…….well, nothing more needs to be said on them.
    Cheers for the suggestions PJ S, there are some lovely watches in there. But I've had the pleasure owning and viewing lots of different brands over the past couple of years and my taste has developed. Massively key to me is history. So while FP Journe is an admirable man and brand, it's a modern one. Glaschutte while making some nice pieces are a step down in finish from Patek. Blancpain was long dead, and just a name was bought for 22,000 CHF and made into a brand, though again I've respect for what was done there. Of the brands you have suggested Girard Perregaux is one with a history I am very interested in and some superb watches I very much admire and wish to own some day.

    What also needs to be mentioned is my experience with always hunting for whats next I want to own. With that in mind I am keen to buy something which holds its value and can be traded in or sold relatively easy should I need to release the equity. Patek fits that bill. When it comes to these types of classic looking dress watches watches I want to feel some history from them. For me Patek and Vacheron Constantin are the two who do that for me, and along with Lange they all make stunning dress pieces which really suit my tastes. But the future for Lange watches is really unknown and it's more of a risk when it comes to moving it on. Vacheron is also notoriously rare to see in the UK and illiquid, not to mention I already own a Vacheron. So I'm back to Patek, my sheer love for my Calatrava means I will be very happy moving up to an Annual Calendar with a bit more of a classic look.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    I agree completely. A Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar is the real end of the line - in my opinion - for watch owning. As I've stated earlier, a chronograph especially on a non sports watch just serves me no purpose. I think on a sports watch they are very aesthetically pleasing and are a sporty complication anyway.
    I agree, I don't really get Patek dress chronographs.
    I think the Perpetual Calender is a great watch and as you said is the pinnacle but for me I was quite happy with the Annual Calender. I really couldn't justify another 10-15k for the 5140.

  38. #38
    5396 looks less cluttered to me.
    It's just a matter of time...

  39. #39
    Apropos of nothing, I'm thinking of shifting my PP Gondolo. As amazing as the dial is, it's just not doing it for me, and I possibly dived in a bit hastily. I do want a Patek in my collection though, so am thinking about a Nautilus, as I tend to wear my IWC Minute Repeater when a dress watch is called for.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belligero View Post
    Agreed; the 5140's dial is ineptly designed.

    The closer you look, the worse it gets. It's an absolute mess:

    That's a shambles really isn't it.

  41. #41
    Master
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    I find the 24 hour indicator useless on the 5205 and that was the deal breaker for me, also it wears a tad big for a "dressier" piece.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Traveller View Post
    Apropos of nothing, I'm thinking of shifting my PP Gondolo. As amazing as the dial is, it's just not doing it for me, and I possibly dived in a bit hastily. I do want a Patek in my collection though, so am thinking about a Nautilus, as I tend to wear my IWC Minute Repeater when a dress watch is called for.
    I agree the Gondolo does nothing for me either. We've all jumped in hastily before, but no worries it's a patek it'll be fine trading in for something else from Patek.

    I do love the new 5227 Calatrava that was introduced at last years Baselworld.

    Shown off at the end of this Video

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqRzzAi_NtE

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    I agree the Gondolo does nothing for me either. We've all jumped in hastily before, but no worries it's a patek it'll be fine trading in for something else from Patek.

    I do love the new 5227 Calatrava that was introduced at last years Baselworld.

    Shown off at the end of this Video

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqRzzAi_NtE
    I find the 5227 a little too big.
    Which Calatrava do you have?

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cinch View Post
    I find the 5227 a little too big.
    Which Calatrava do you have?
    5296G which is a 38mm and is pretty much the perfect size tbh, maybe 39mm would be fine too and maybe 3mm thicker case for complications and we're at my max.

  45. #45
    Master
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    5205 of those in black and RG, altho I do have reservations about the rather thick and concave case so I am still favouring the 5712, not a fan of the 5726 AC. All the others seem rather old-fashioned to me so not my style.

  46. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    I agree the Gondolo does nothing for me either. We've all jumped in hastily before, but no worries it's a patek it'll be fine trading in for something else from Patek.

    I do love the new 5227 Calatrava that was introduced at last years Baselworld.

    Shown off at the end of this Video

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jqRzzAi_NtE
    Talking of hasty, just traded it in for a Nautilus 5712!

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Traveller View Post
    Talking of hasty, just traded it in for a Nautilus 5712!
    Brilliant stuff Mart. Didn't you say you wanted a Vacheron Overseas though!!! Sports watch slot now filled. With a Nautilus 5712 !!

    Top stuff.

  48. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    Brilliant stuff Mart. Didn't you say you wanted a Vacheron Overseas though!!! Sports watch slot now filled. With a Nautilus 5712 !!

    Top stuff.
    Got back exactly what I paid for the Gondolo as well, which is a bit of a result! Pictures later hopefully.

    And I still want a VC. Or maybe an AP RO Chrono. Can't decide.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Traveller View Post
    Got back exactly what I paid for the Gondolo as well, which is a bit of a result! Pictures later hopefully.

    And I still want a VC. Or maybe an AP RO Chrono. Can't decide.

    Ok, one or the other not both and enjoy the Nautilus before you go buying another sports watch from the trinity!!


    I want the RO 15202, the new one with the blue date wheel!! But I am going to stop, no more. If I want one to come in one has to go out. Forcing that on myself makes me keep a lid on the rampant collection creep.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by CVByrne View Post
    5296G which is a 38mm and is pretty much the perfect size tbh, maybe 39mm would be fine too and maybe 3mm thicker case for complications and we're at my max.
    The 5296G is nice, I did think about it being my next watch but I've opted for the 5711.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Space Traveller View Post
    Talking of hasty, just traded it in for a Nautilus 5712!
    Very nice!

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