CWC G10 REPLACEMENT GLASS

[Ticker]

Hi all,

I was wondering if you could help me? I wear my CWC G10 daily and over time, as you would expect it has picked up a knock or 2 on the plexi glass. Some are quite deep and wouldn't polish out.

My question is....is the glass easy to replace? How much would I expect a new glass to cost?

Thanks in advance.

[PeterT]

Most of the older CWC/Precista G10 that I have bought needed a new "glass" (Plexi really).
I registered with Cousins as a trade customer as they will not sell direct to the public. You can do this as well if that have not changed their selling policy.
The part you need to the CWC G10 quartz is a ATC 316 as shown at the top of the page listed below:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/search-res...chtext=atc+316

Regarding doing the job, I find that the caseback on the early models can be very tight and you need a very good quality caseback knife in order to prevent slipping and ruining the case. Lever against one of the lugs. On a fat boy there is a little indentation in the edge of the caseback just near the bottom left lug if you are looking at the back of the watch.
Take out the movement and then you have to push out the old glass from the back. Some have adhesive and so need quite a bit of force.
Clean out the recess in the case where the glass sits really well.
The new glass will come with a chrome tension ring which removes originality. I use an ice lolly stick to prise out the old matt tension ring from the original glass as wood will not mark the glass or the metal tension ring. Remove and discard the chrome ring from the new glass. Insert the matt tension ring into the glass and carefully push the new glass into the recess in the case. I often get half in first and then gradually work round with your thumbs and it should snap into place. The matt tension ring may be a little loose in the new glass on the bench but it tightens up as the glass is compressed as it is inserted into the case.
I use a can of compressed air to blow away any bits of dust etc from the case and dial. Reinstall the movement taking care not to touch the dial as it can mark quite easily.
To help with the caseback, I clean away any debris that might prevent seating and sealing then add a touch of grease that will not rot the rubber seal. Check Cousins for this as well. Mine is called Fomblin as I know that Rolex use it to lubricate the threaded crowns on their sports models but it is very expensive.
To get the case back on again, I use something like this:

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/handtools...skuId=11758916

Line up the mark on the case back along with the crown and try to get as much on as possible with your fingers leaving the last part where you opened it in the first place. (This will help if you need to get it open again) Squeeze the last bit with the top part of the jaws on the glass and the bottom part on the section of case that you have not popped in yet and squeeze gently. It should pop in with a click. I have not cracked a glass yet and the flexible jaws help to spread the load.

I suggest that you buy 2 of the glasses in case you mess up the first one!!

Best of luck,

Peter

[Ticker]

Most of the older CWC/Precista G10 that I have bought needed a new "glass" (Plexi really).
I registered with Cousins as a trade customer as they will not sell direct to the public. You can do this as well if that have not changed their selling policy.
The part you need to the CWC G10 quartz is a ATC 316 as shown at the top of the page listed below:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/search-res...chtext=atc+316

Regarding doing the job, I find that the caseback on the early models can be very tight and you need a very good quality caseback knife in order to prevent slipping and ruining the case. Lever against one of the lugs. On a fat boy there is a little indentation in the edge of the caseback just near the bottom left lug if you are looking at the back of the watch.
Take out the movement and then you have to push out the old glass from the back. Some have adhesive and so need quite a bit of force.
Clean out the recess in the case where the glass sits really well.
The new glass will come with a chrome tension ring which removes originality. I use an ice lolly stick to prise out the old matt tension ring from the original glass as wood will not mark the glass or the metal tension ring. Remove and discard the chrome ring from the new glass. Insert the matt tension ring into the glass and carefully push the new glass into the recess in the case. I often get half in first and then gradually work round with your thumbs and it should snap into place. The matt tension ring may be a little loose in the new glass on the bench but it tightens up as the glass is compressed as it is inserted into the case.
I use a can of compressed air to blow away any bits of dust etc from the case and dial. Reinstall the movement taking care not to touch the dial as it can mark quite easily.
To help with the caseback, I clean away any debris that might prevent seating and sealing then add a touch of grease that will not rot the rubber seal. Check Cousins for this as well. Mine is called Fomblin as I know that Rolex use it to lubricate the threaded crowns on their sports models but it is very expensive.
To get the case back on again, I use something like this:

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/handtools...skuId=11758916

Line up the mark on the case back along with the crown and try to get as much on as possible with your fingers leaving the last part where you opened it in the first place. (This will help if you need to get it open again) Squeeze the last bit with the top part of the jaws on the glass and the bottom part on the section of case that you have not popped in yet and squeeze gently. It should pop in with a click. I have not cracked a glass yet and the flexible jaws help to spread the load.

I suggest that you buy 2 of the glasses in case you mess up the first one!!

Best of luck,

Peter

Hi Peter,

What an excellent reply! Many thanks sir.

Kind regards,