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Thread: TZ Cycling/Bike Appreciation thread!

  1. #2801
    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Random thought so please nobody invest any time into this, but, inner tubes. Are they all the same, ie inner tube brand A = inner tube brand B = inner tube brand C? Reason I ask is, almost every aspect of bikes seems to be scrutinised but I never see any discussion or view of inner tubes. Is it because there is no difference between them? Is it that once something penetrates the tyre it doesn't matter what's inside because its going to blow? Or do some inner tubes prevent pinch flats more than others?

    I had a puncture earlier today soon after setting off, so it got me thinking on my mile walk home.
    There are more reviews for tyre levers and small pumps for your back pocket...
    Unless you are looking at latex or other fancy super light tubes they are all likely to perform the same when faced with a piece of flint, glass or a pinch against the rim.

  2. #2802
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    If you get less punctures with latex or tube maker A vs Tube maker B then itís a combination of luck and the tyres you use
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  3. #2803
    Master ~dadam02~'s Avatar
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    Thanks both.

  4. #2804
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Thanks both.
    I donít worry about tubes any more as I donít use them ... old tech.

  5. #2805
    Master ~dadam02~'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montello View Post
    I donít worry about tubes any more as I donít use them ... old tech.
    It's just an old mountain bike I was on today, but have a gravel bike and road bike coming next month and I'm primed and ready to get the YouTube clips of how to install tubeless on!

  6. #2806
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    It's just an old mountain bike I was on today, but have a gravel bike and road bike coming next month and I'm primed and ready to get the YouTube clips of how to install tubeless on!
    Tubeless is even better on mtb due to running at lower pressures.

  7. #2807
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Random thought so please nobody invest any time into this, but, inner tubes. Are they all the same, ie inner tube brand A = inner tube brand B = inner tube brand C? Reason I ask is, almost every aspect of bikes seems to be scrutinised but I never see any discussion or view of inner tubes. Is it because there is no difference between them? Is it that once something penetrates the tyre it doesn't matter what's inside because its going to blow? Or do some inner tubes prevent pinch flats more than others?

    I had a puncture earlier today soon after setting off, so it got me thinking on my mile walk home.
    No, they aren't all the same. Some have better / reliable valves than others, some are lighter, some roll more efficiently, some are more likely to pinch or tear and so on. I would say that resistance to punctures is more about the tyre than the inner, but some inners are more puncture resistant. I usually buy Continental or Schwalbe and they've been thoroughly adequate (typical road use).

    EDIT - sorry, already answered

  8. #2808
    Master ~dadam02~'s Avatar
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    Thank you.incidentallu I've just replaced a specialized inner tube with a scwhwalbe so see how that goes. Sorry for stinking up the forum with this riveting discussion. As you all were.

  9. #2809
    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Thank you.incidentallu I've just replaced a specialized inner tube with a scwhwalbe so see how that goes. Sorry for stinking up the forum with this riveting discussion. As you all were.
    I have wondered the same a few times but was too scared to ask!

  10. #2810
    Master Tokyo Tokei's Avatar
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    Back along the Tamagawa (River Tama) today. It was raining, but this area has seen worse...



    ...about 18 months ago, much of these wide banks were underwater. Typhoon Hagibis struck, one of the largest ever with a gale-force diameter exceeding 1500km. The full force hit Japan, resulting in around 100 fatalities, millions evacuated, and billions in damages.

    Calmer today, but why was TT cycling in the rain, and what could be in that shopping bag so expertly portaged?

    Well sometimes you get an opportunity to own an original. Sometimes, you just enjoy the cover. And sometimes you appreciate the history. In this case, I was lucky to find all of three...



    (Schwalbe tubes, btw)

    TT

  11. #2811
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    Quote Originally Posted by trident-7 View Post
    First Time Trial for a good while for me on Sunday. 10 miles. I blew the cobwebs off my TT bike today, made sure it still worked, & did 3 x 6min 40sec intervals with 1 minute rest interval. Let the legs know what they're in for. Intervals were 352W, 355W, & 345W. I was fading a bit towards the end & I'll be happy if I get anywhere near that on Sunday.
    Sudden squall with heavy rain & headwind at 2/3 distance but got around the 10 miles in 20:53, normalised power 333W. Pleased with that considering the road was wet & there were 8 roundabouts to negotiate.

  12. #2812
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    This may be of interest

    https://youtu.be/u3jvZXqwUB0

    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Random thought so please nobody invest any time into this, but, inner tubes. Are they all the same, ie inner tube brand A = inner tube brand B = inner tube brand C? Reason I ask is, almost every aspect of bikes seems to be scrutinised but I never see any discussion or view of inner tubes. Is it because there is no difference between them? Is it that once something penetrates the tyre it doesn't matter what's inside because its going to blow? Or do some inner tubes prevent pinch flats more than others?

    I had a puncture earlier today soon after setting off, so it got me thinking on my mile walk home.
    Cheers,

    Ben



    ..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers


    " an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "

  13. #2813
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    Very timely! I like Dave Arthurís channel.

  14. #2814
    Craftsman HookedSeven's Avatar
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    The weather window here was pretty narrow so took both my sons and did a 15km loop in the local hills. Itís pretty much the first time Luke (5) has done an entire off-road trip and despite the less than ideal weather he loved it. Looks like itís going to be a summer full of biking :-)


  15. #2815
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    Indoor session for me today some alternative sprints. Hitting the big watts for first time.

    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  16. #2816
    Quote Originally Posted by trident-7 View Post
    Sudden squall with heavy rain & headwind at 2/3 distance but got around the 10 miles in 20:53, normalised power 333W. Pleased with that considering the road was wet & there were 8 roundabouts to negotiate.
    Good time. Well done. Been years now since I entered a TT.

  17. #2817
    Craftsman skmark's Avatar
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    Anyone own/used the Castelli Idro2 waterproof jacket? What's your thoughts/experiences?

  18. #2818
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    Quote Originally Posted by dulux View Post
    Good time. Well done. Been years now since I entered a TT.
    Cheers, the winner did 19:53 but I was first veteran & we got the team prize as well! I've done nearly a thousand TT's over the last 30 years. It doesn't get any easier!

  19. #2819
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skmark View Post
    Anyone own/used the Castelli Idro2 waterproof jacket? What's your thoughts/experiences?
    If youíre looking for a Jacket I do have too many Rapha Waterproof ones! Will be XL
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  20. #2820
    Craftsman skmark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    If youíre looking for a Jacket I do have too many Rapha Waterproof ones! Will be XL
    Iím a Castelli XL but that means nothing outside of the ridiculous world of Italian cycling gear . How does a Rapha XL translate to the real world chest size, weight etc??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  21. #2821
    Master Pitch3110's Avatar
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    Great riding there.

    Lovely and first 50 miler with Wifey today, weather held out in Suffolk

    Pitch


  22. #2822
    Quote Originally Posted by skmark View Post
    Iím a Castelli XL but that means nothing outside of the ridiculous world of Italian cycling gear . How does a Rapha XL translate to the real world chest size, weight etc??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Iím L in Castelli, M/L in Rapha. Iíd say Rapha sizing is a bit all over the place, especially comparing older models to the new ones.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  23. #2823
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    Quote Originally Posted by skmark View Post
    Anyone own/used the Castelli Idro2 waterproof jacket? What's your thoughts/experiences?
    I have a Gore Shakedry which uses the same material, it's certainly the best waterproof jacket I've used in terms of breathability/waterproofness, however it's not at all hardwearing and is worn through easily, it's not recommended to wear a backpack for instance as any rubbing against the outer will wear through, also if folded and carried in a back pocket the fold lines can also wear through! It's basically the original Goretex material without the hardwearing polyester outer layer.

    In one word I'd say 'fragile'.

  24. #2824
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    Wondering if the TZ cyclists can help with some recommendations?

    Last year I broke my leg in 3 places. I'm about 6ft 2" and was just under 18 stone when the accident happened.

    Fast forward to Jan 2021 and I had out grown my wardrobe. I knew I had to do something.

    I hasten to add I was waiting for 2 screws to be removed from my ankle. They were inserted to stabilise the ankle due to my foot rotating 90 degrees and tearing tendons, ligaments, muscle damage etc. They also significantly affected mobility. Due to Covid the op was postponed 6 months..... I never weighed myself on Jan, I wish I had. I suspect I was well in to the region of 22 stone. I got a new bike in March, had the screws out and weighed myself. I was 21st and 6lbs (bloody hell).

    To say having the screws removed made a difference, was an understatement!! I was able to go further, harder and faster. I lost a further 2+ stone in 5-6 weeks. I'm now back to the 18 stone bracket and gradually losing more weight each week..... Just much more slowly.

    I have invested in 2 other bikes, a cheap Giant Defy which I fixed up and completely gave me the road cycling bug. Enter stage left a barely used Merida Carbon fibre road bike. I'm looking for recommendations for some heavy duty road wheels for the Merida. I have had one spoke go pop already, curse my fat arse ;-)

    So far I have looked at Scribe Duty wheelsets and Hunt do a similar set. I don't want to spend more than £400 ideally. It is very doubtful I'll ever be a 12 stone race snake. Even when we built our house and I was doing loads of labouring etc I struggled to get under 15 stone and was literally like a stick for me. So, do I get some wheels rated at 120kgs, on the basis I'm losing and will continue to lose weight. Or do I get a set of 130kg rated wheels??

    My bike mechanic has stated that the build quality of Mavic, Fulcrum, Scribe etc is so much better than the standard crap fitted from the factory that he thinks I'll be fine with 120kg rated wheels. Any advice, tips, suggestions from the TZ cyclists?? Obviously keep losing weight ;-)

    I'm loathed to throw too much at a set of wheels now that could be invested in a better bike / wheelset further down the line.

    Thanks in anticipation and for reading my long post.

    Paul

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by gingerboy; 25th May 2021 at 13:52.

  25. #2825
    Master Tokyo Tokei's Avatar
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    My generic answer is "other things being equal, more spokes (and wider rims and tyres) create more durable wheels" but there are many variables. Not least if they will fit a carbon bicycle which often have poor clearances.

    You could maybe try contacting these folk for a quote for custom wheels https://velowheels.co.uk/custom-quote ? A decent set will last a very long time, and should be safe too.
    Last edited by Tokyo Tokei; 22nd May 2021 at 11:04.

  26. #2826
    Forget factory wheels. Go handbuilt on something like Hope hubs that way your builder can use a double eyelet rim or one with a strong spoke bed plus use 28 or 32 holes, using plain gauge or selected spokes and brass nipples (not alloy).

    I can recommend Martin at Arkane wheelworks, he will select the right rim rather than stick to the usual mavic/DT default option. Heís London based but there are good wheelbuilders all over the country.

  27. #2827
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    Quote Originally Posted by gingerboy View Post
    Wondering if the YZ cyclists can help with some recommendations?
    Malcolm at The Cycle Clinic is highly regarded.

    https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/

  28. #2828
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbh View Post
    Malcolm at The Cycle Clinic is highly regarded.

    https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/
    Plus 1 for Malcolm , he has just built a wheelset for me and Im delighted.

    Following recommendations on here or otherwise I would have never heard of him and would have followed the sheep towards a mainstream brand.

  29. #2829
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    Harry Rowland hand built wheels.

  30. #2830
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    Does he still only build Open Pro? I found him very traditional if I'm honest, and the wheels he built me broke in a year.

    It's anecdotal I know.

  31. #2831
    Master andyjay's Avatar
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    I had some wheels made www.dcrwheels.co.uk and he was able to advise to the best setups. Iím just under 90kg so I was advised to have 28 spoke at the rear and 24 spokes at the front, rather than 24/20 for lighter riders. As I had the DCR hubs with alloy rims they werenít that expensive and are still going strong several years later, and still true.

  32. #2832
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bondurant View Post
    Does he still only build Open Pro? I found him very traditional if I'm honest, and the wheels he built me broke in a year.

    It's anecdotal I know.
    Heís old school and builds excellent wheels. If you had a problem you should have contacted him, he stands by his work.

  33. #2833
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    Thank you everyone, I can see this is going to be an interesting journey..... Pleasantly surprised by some of the prices

    Cheers

    Paul

    Sent from my VOG-L29 using Tapatalk

  34. #2834
    Master ~dadam02~'s Avatar
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    Couple of weeks away from getting my replacement Canyon Endurace and I want to get it set up straight away as tubeless. It comes on DT Swiss E1800 tubeless ready wheels but GP5000 non-tubeless tyres so I need to get some tubeless tyres. Anyone recommend any that have worked well, it any to avoid?

  35. #2835
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Couple of weeks away from getting my replacement Canyon Endurace and I want to get it set up straight away as tubeless. It comes on DT Swiss E1800 tubeless ready wheels but GP5000 non-tubeless tyres so I need to get some tubeless tyres. Anyone recommend any that have worked well, it any to avoid?
    GP5000T
    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  36. #2836
    Master ~dadam02~'s Avatar
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    Ha that simple, stick with the GP's but tubeless version

  37. #2837
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Couple of weeks away from getting my replacement Canyon Endurace and I want to get it set up straight away as tubeless. It comes on DT Swiss E1800 tubeless ready wheels but GP5000 non-tubeless tyres so I need to get some tubeless tyres. Anyone recommend any that have worked well, it any to avoid?
    Schwalbe pro 1s 28mm in the summer and a G one speed 30mm in winter.

  38. #2838
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~dadam02~ View Post
    Couple of weeks away from getting my replacement Canyon Endurace and I want to get it set up straight away as tubeless. It comes on DT Swiss E1800 tubeless ready wheels but GP5000 non-tubeless tyres so I need to get some tubeless tyres. Anyone recommend any that have worked well, it any to avoid?
    I have the GP5000Ts and been very pleased with them. Got me through the winter nicely.

  39. #2839
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    Lovely weather here in NW Leics today. Got out of work early and had a very nice run out through Melbourne and Ticknall.



  40. #2840
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    Nice to see the weather improving- popped out early doors for a quick(ish) 10 miles
    Untitled by biglewie, on Flickr

  41. #2841
    Went out for a nice 15k blast this morning before it got too hot!

    I have noticed that I can longer get onto the largest rear cog in either large or small front ring - tried messing around with the barrel and the H screw but canít get it to work.

    Wondering if it needs a service or if something else has gone wrong.

    Pinged decathlon a message to see if one of their shops can look at it but might try and get a local bike shop to look at it instead and maybe get a shorter stem sized up

  42. #2842
    Grand Master 100thmonkey's Avatar
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    100km in the afternoon sun with just one water bottle! Hello Summer Miles

    "When You Go Home, Tell Them Of Us And Say,
    For Their Tomorrow, We Gave Our Today"

  43. #2843
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    Only thing I can think of outside of what you have tried is a bent mech hanger. Whacked it on anything perhaps?

  44. #2844
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    Think I already posted a very similar photo, but this is one of my favourite places to take a break and take in the view; especially with the bizarre lack of rain for several days in a row here.


  45. #2845
    Quote Originally Posted by Bondurant View Post
    Only thing I can think of outside of what you have tried is a bent mech hanger. Whacked it on anything perhaps?

    Had a little fall last year but the rear mech was unmarked and changing between gears is smooth

    Iím wondering if the cable tension might be the culprit

    If decathlon can look at it will swing by the local bike shop get it looked at

  46. #2846
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    Cable tension is affected by the barrel adjuster, which you've tried. You could try loosening the cable off and starting again using an appropriate YouTube video (I would). There is no need to pay anything to a bike shop for that.

  47. #2847
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    Quote Originally Posted by j17ykp View Post
    Had a little fall last year but the rear mech was unmarked and changing between gears is smooth

    Iím wondering if the cable tension might be the culprit

    If decathlon can look at it will swing by the local bike shop get it looked at
    I still think you should check the hanger, especially as you have had an off, it's a sacrificial part so bends very easily. Mine is currently like a banana from falling off at 0mph and no marks on the mech. I have all my gears just about but it overshifts on a few. You can straighten hangers but they are so cheap you may as well just replace.

  48. #2848
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    100km in the afternoon sun with just one water bottle! Hello Summer Miles
    120k for me coming over your way I think. So good to be out with club mates with the sun on our backs, could feel my spirits soar with every mile

  49. #2849
    Quote Originally Posted by SimonH View Post
    I still think you should check the hanger, especially as you have had an off, it's a sacrificial part so bends very easily. Mine is currently like a banana from falling off at 0mph and no marks on the mech. I have all my gears just about but it overshifts on a few. You can straighten hangers but they are so cheap you may as well just replace.
    Thanks Simon- had a quick look and it looks straight to me, I have noticed that the barrel adjuster has totally unscrewed probably me being to enthusiastic s when attempting to index for the first so now thinking it maybe down to cable tension

    Am I correct in thinking to screw in the adjuster I slack off the wire from mech and screw in the adjusted then take up the slack in the cable and clamp back down?

  50. #2850
    Quote Originally Posted by j17ykp View Post
    Thanks Simon- had a quick look and it looks straight to me, I have noticed that the barrel adjuster has totally unscrewed probably me being to enthusiastic s when attempting to index for the first so now thinking it maybe down to cable tension

    Am I correct in thinking to screw in the adjuster I slack off the wire from mech and screw in the adjusted then take up the slack in the cable and clamp back down?
    No! If in doubt watch the videos on the park tools website.
    You should only touch the cable clamp when fitting the cable or when in the hardest/smallest cog as the cable should have a little bit of tension in it, not enough and you will need to take up the slack.
    I find the best way to adjust a rear mech is to put the chain in the middle of the cassette and look behind at the chain wrapping around the block and the position of the top jockey wheel, there should be a fag paper clearance between the sides of the chain and the next gear cog of the cassette, the top jockey wheel should be dead centre lined up with the teeth of the cog.

    Any adjustment should be minimal, 1/4 or half turns, watch the top jockey wheel as you do this to see it move across.

    It’s not difficult once you have done it a few times. This is assuming your high and low stops are correct but these are not difficult to adjust once you know how.

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