Reply With QuoteDolan Carbon Monocoque, a bit dated these days but we've done some miles and seen some sights.
Decided I'm going to get a roadie/flat bar road bike to complement my eMTB. I've had a Btwin Triban previously and enjoyed riding that. I'm not going mega money on this, budget of £500. How are these and what is the consensus?
Ribble Prime - £299. Love the look of this
Focus Arriba - on sale at £420 at a new local bike shop - like the idea of getting locally
Specialized Allez - £449. Another one I like the look of
At the moment I really like the Ribble & Allez but like the look of the Focus with flat bar and it being local is good. Any thoughts? I've looked at the current triban and they seem good value but like the look of these 3.
Dolan Carbon Monocoque, a bit dated these days but we've done some miles and seen some sights.
29th birthday (plus VAT) coming up so treated myself to Lynskey Sportive disc. Will get some pics up once the build is underway.
Just replaced this
With this
Good for my daily attempts to escape machines sent from the future to destroy me - cunningly disquised as Twingos and Clios and lying in wait on the avenue de la Grande Armée and the boulevard Haussmann.
How do you find riding a flat bar type road bike? I'm more used to MTB headsets so this is something I've thought of as my previous use of a road bike, I wasn't a massive fan of the handlebarsOriginally Posted by SimonK
I'm finding it a very comfortable riding position. The previous bike was a hybrid and had an 'elbows out' position which might be good for forest tracks but not so good for street riding. The Triban comes in flat or dropped bars versions for the same price - I figured with the kind of journeys I make if I had dropped bars 95% of the time I'd have my hands on the top of the bars so took the flat bars model. No regrets so far.
Thanks - that's my own thought too and I seem to remember riding that way when i had my previous road bike. May have just made my mind up for me there
Anyone doing the Tour of the Broads on Sunday?
I have signed up to the 100 mile loop.
Tom
No knowledge on any Karl, but do like the look of that Ribble as a very cheap winter bike for the odd outing. Always use my MTB when the weathers bad as the Canyon Aeroad I have never sees a hint of rain. 11-32 cassette also appeals as I've lost all my bloody fitness due to a hand injury.
Horses for courses but I find it much easier and a more enjoyable ride with the drop bars. Think it has more to do with the varying hand positions.
The ribble does look great value doesn't it. A nice looking bike as well.
By the way I'm not Karl - don't worry you're not the first lol (think Karl is senraw).
That Ribble looks seriously nice and a bargain - and I don't 'do' road bikes....
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Ooops. Sorry I can't believe I've done that again. I should know better as I know where Karl resides and know you are in Sheffield. I blame my phone......I can't see the location banner on the avatars for some reason.
If you do go down the Ribble route I'd love to hear your thoughts. Looked at a few reviews and it does seem to be highly recommended given the claris groupset. Even fits mudguards so a certain winter bike contender for me.......
Lol. No problem.
Will do. The ribble was on offer at £250 a month or so ago as well. Wish I'd seen it then.
Going to have a good look at the Focus this weekend but will definitely be having a good think about the other options.
I tried a whole bunch of road oriented flat bars and went with a Specialized Sirrus - very happy with it
A good compromise for city riding is drops with 'interrupter' levers on the tops. OK, you have to move to the hoods to change gear (or drop to the drops) but it does mean you can brake from the tops.
The advantages of drops is that you have so many more hand positions, and of course can get down out of a headwind. Having CX style brakes on the flats removes any negatives - you can still cruise upright and stop if you need too. Riding with my kids I find that invaluable.
My daily bike (Danish cargo bike) has MTB flats on it - and I really feel my wrists start to scream after ten miles or so due to the lack of hand positions. Still, I reckon it would look rather odd with drops 😋
Re 11-32 and Claris. A 32 sprocket is definitely worth having if your fitness isn't too good, I have it on both of my road bikes, and coupled with a 34/50 compact chainset an 11-32 gives an excellent range of gears. It works best on my "good" bike, with 11 speed Ultegra, and I also have this spread on my wet/winter bike, a Felt with 9 speed Sora, where the gaps between the gears are bearable. However I think that an 11-32 8speed cassette as with the Claris will have jumps between the ratios that are too big, and I'd think carefully about this. The Sora groupset works very well, only the Tektro brakes let the Felt down a bit, but that's when compared with the fantastic Ultegra stoppers. Upgrading the brake pads gave a large improvement. I was looking for a 10speed bike when I got the Rose, and thought that it's 11 speeds with a 32 sprocket would give me a bail out gear for the end of long rides when the legs are tired, but I use it a lot more than I thought I would. This is the curse of a 16 year old brain trapped in a 59 year old body! ;-)
Edit. Guards are a must for winter riding.
F.T.F.A.
^^^Thanks for that Magirus.
I have a Canyon Aeroad with Di2 that I bought without really checking the gearing. It came with 52-36 11-28 but living in a valley in Yorkshire I often struggled with some of the bigger, longer climbs.
I wanted to swap out the rear cassette for an 11-32 but found this wasn't possible.....ten speed compat wheel set apparently. Well possible but an expensive swap. It was suggested changing the 52-36 to 50-34 which I did but I'm a clear lightweight as I didn't notice a major difference.
I've been tempted to upgrade the wheelset a few times which would allow the rear swap but man maths point to sticking with the current ones and using the money for a second bike. It has to have the desired gearing though although whether I'd again notice any massive difference remains to be seen.
Best answer would be to get fitter but I have constant problems with my hand. Seems I get to a certain stage, suffer set backs and have to start again. Grrrrrrrr.
Appreciated the input. No point in diving in and being disappointed so more research needed and possibly a bigger budget.
How about sell the Canyon, and buy one of the new Ti bikes that Ribble are now doing? Upgrade the groupset to 105 5800 11speed with 50/34 + 11/32, £1400. Fit Crud Raceguard2s for the wet. The 105 gets excellent reviews. One bike to do it all.
Just got me this for when the nights start drawing in. Seems to be a copy of the Fenix BC30 but with this one you can run just one of either of the lights instead of both being on at all times.
Can't grumble for £15.
Makes a lot of sense. Something to consider.
I took delivery of this the other weekend. Giant talon 1 2016 model. It's got a great spec as it seems a lot manufacturers are raising prices and lowering the spec of bikes on their 2017 models. Only done 30 miles or so on it so far but I'm impressed.
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Me and my Santa Cruz Bronson discovering the west of Ireland
Eh? All Shimano cassettes are the same fitting so there's no reason you can't fit a larger one on the wheel you have. The only issue you might have is that you'll need a rear mech with a longer cage to take account of the wider gear range and you might also need a new/longer chain.
I would go along with that, and indeed there are some good offers on Shimano cassettes around; paradoxically, I understand that 10 speed systems have a wider chain than 9s.
Coming, as I do, from an earlier unenlightened era, when the best you could get on most road bikes was 52/42 and a 13 to 18 racing or 14 to 24 general riding rear set, I have a genuine (not sarcastic and certainly not macho) query.
Most modern road bikes are much lighter than of yore and tend to be set up with 2x9, 10 or11 and chainrings of 50/38 or so with 11-28 at the back. I never see anyone using the small rings in this part of GOC , so the query is this:
Are most riders tackling steeper gradients than before, and do they expect to sit in the saddle throughout all climbs, however much weight they are carrying, or do they simply not know how to use use the amazing range of gears available to them these days?
I am 72, pretty unfit, but have just ordered a 12-23 8 speed cassette for my 1997 Kona Cinder Cone, which I use as a winter bike, to enable me to get a closer 12,13,14,15 set up for the middle ring for cadence. I don't think in 19 years I have used the small ring or the lower end of the 11-30 rear sprockets that the bike came with, but have used the big(gish) ring when dat debil wind is behind me.
I hope this last sentence isn't a contradiction of two paragraphs above, but outside of riding up (scary technical) cliffs in forests, I can't see the use for such ultra low gears in day to day road riding. Genuinely, what am I missing about this era of plenty?
Last edited by grey; 20th August 2016 at 21:12.
Sorry, rather ignorant when it comes to bikes and mechanics. I had researched and thought I could upgrade the rear mech as you rightly suggest but two separate bike shops said it wasn't possible with my current set up. Off hand I can't remember the Di2 model number but it is the older ten speed. Also told my wheel set wouldn't house an 11 speed cassette (is it the hub?).
Bottom line was there were workarounds but all were quite expensive to the point a second bike almost started to make sense.
Dug the email out.....the issue is my wheelset. Must be quite dated as they will not house the 11-32 cassette.
They linked this Web page to explain.....
http://fitwerx.com/converting-shiman...2-to-11-speed/
If you are riding a MTB on the road then the inner 22t ring is pretty redundant, especially if you are using road tyres. Cassette's and chain rings are all about what you prefer and the riding you do. I know some guy's on the TdF will run a 28t or 30t cassette on certain stages as that's what suits their riding style so I guess there's no correct answer when it comes down to gearing.I would go along with that, and indeed there are some good offers on Shimano cassettes around; paradoxically, I understand that 10 speed systems have a wider chain than 9s.
Coming, as I do, from an earlier unenlightened era, when the best you could get on most road bikes was 52/42 and a 13 to 18 racing or 14 to 24 general riding rear set, I have a genuine (not sarcastic and certainly not macho
Most modern road bikes are much lighter than of yore and tend to be set up with 2x9, 10 or11 and chainrings of 50/38 or so. I never see anyone using the small rings in this part of GOC , so the query is this:
Are most riders tackling steeper gradients than before, and do they expect to sit in the saddle throughout all climbs, however much gear they are carrying, or do they simply not know how to use use the amazing range of gears available to them these days?
I am 72, pretty unfit, but have just ordered a 12-23 8 speed cassette for my 1997 Kona Cinder Cone, which I use as a winter bike, to enable me to get a closer 12,13,14,15 set up for the middle ring for cadence. I don't think in 19 years I have used the small ring or the lower end of the 11-30 rear sprockets that the bike came with, but have used the big(gish) ring when dat debil wind is behind me.
I hope this last sentence isn't a contradiction of two paragraphs above, but outside of riding up (scary technical) cliffs in forests, I can't see the use for such ultra low gears in day to day road riding. Genuinely, what am I missing about this era of plenty?
Shimano freehub's (the ratchet mechanism on the hub that the cassette fits onto) have been unchanged since the late 80's. You can take a XT M730 rear hub that would have originally had a 7sp cassette fitted and fit a brand new 11sp XT cassette on it. The gap between the rings is shorter and the chains are narrower but an old 7sp cassette is the same width as a new 11sp. The issues arise when going from 10sp to 11sp as you then also need to change the rear mech and shifter as the cable pull ratios are different. Just stay with 10sp and buy a wider range cassette
People tend to have higher cadences these days as it’s more efficient and easier on your knees to spin a lower gear.
i cant see the point of grinding a dinner plate on the road plus an 11-23, that said a 25t with a compact or the newer semi compacts will get you up anything, i cant see the point of a 28/29 unless you are carrying a lot of extra weight upon your person or touring.
A friend has a compact and a 32 on the back. He's fit and carries no real extra weight (probably around 11.5 stones) but likes to spin. I have a 28 on the back of a compact and find it perfect but I do live on the edge of the Yorkshire Moors and have very few rides where I'm not encountering 16%+ inclines so after 60-100 miles of that you're happy to have the extra gear. Just all depends on where you ride, how you ride, how fit/strong you are, and how heavy you are.
Yet Alberto Contador uses either a 30t or 32t cassette in the Grand Tours, depending on the stage of course...
Last edited by Dynam0humm; 21st August 2016 at 02:49.
Just ordered this which will be waiting for me when I get back...
So didn't go with any of these. Decided to up my budget and gone for a Planet X Pro Carbon. Just over £200 off the normal price
Seems very good spec for the money
Just agreed a deal on a set of these to go on it...
Riding cross country round the Chilterns can be painful when the brambles are so over grown ...
Last edited by I a n; 22nd August 2016 at 06:52.
Taken my latest build out for a few more rides over the last couple of weeks. Really liking it, it's more capable than I am.
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That's going to be an awesome build. Was it the Enve tubs on SC that you picked up?
Today's reward after climbing Norwood Edge and Greenhow Hill was rather nice
Last edited by Schofie; 21st August 2016 at 20:19.
I have a compact groupset with 50/34 on the front and 11-32 on the back. For me this choice was all about range. Using this single bike and gearset I can pootle about UK roads, do sportives etc. but also climbed Mount Ventoux with relative ease and am currently doing various Cols in the Alps. In the old days people used to change their cassette for the mountains. No need to with these modern 11 speed set ups.I would go along with that, and indeed there are some good offers on Shimano cassettes around; paradoxically, I understand that 10 speed systems have a wider chain than 9s.
Coming, as I do, from an earlier unenlightened era, when the best you could get on most road bikes was 52/42 and a 13 to 18 racing or 14 to 24 general riding rear set, I have a genuine (not sarcastic and certainly not macho
Most modern road bikes are much lighter than of yore and tend to be set up with 2x9, 10 or11 and chainrings of 50/38 or so with 11-28 at the back. I never see anyone using the small rings in this part of GOC , so the query is this:
Are most riders tackling steeper gradients than before, and do they expect to sit in the saddle throughout all climbs, however much weight they are carrying, or do they simply not know how to use use the amazing range of gears available to them these days?
I am 72, pretty unfit, but have just ordered a 12-23 8 speed cassette for my 1997 Kona Cinder Cone, which I use as a winter bike, to enable me to get a closer 12,13,14,15 set up for the middle ring for cadence. I don't think in 19 years I have used the small ring or the lower end of the 11-30 rear sprockets that the bike came with, but have used the big(gish) ring when dat debil wind is behind me.
I hope this last sentence isn't a contradiction of two paragraphs above, but outside of riding up (scary technical) cliffs in forests, I can't see the use for such ultra low gears in day to day road riding. Genuinely, what am I missing about this era of plenty?
Any recommendations on road bike pedals?
Budget of up to £50, preferably something Amazon sell (not essential though) as I've got a gift certificate. I've got DMR V8's on my MTB
I've found the Time system to be the best. I use the older iclic pedals but the Xpresso system is the next one along and excellent. I think you can pick up an entry level set for about £40
Edit. Here you go as a starting point:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/time-xpresso...7c5360534850uk
Last edited by Schofie; 21st August 2016 at 21:34.
Thanks, also to Schofie, MrSmith, Dynam0humm for the responses - am delighted to see so much thought put into gear choice - I had begun to think people were buying enormously wide ratios simply because they could, like buying the biggest screen TV because they were available (I suspect though that there is an element of this in some purchases).
In the old days (1970s) a lot of road training was done on 42 x 16 (70.9 inches in old money) and early season time trials could have a gear limit of 68 in, and juniors were restricted to a top gear of 52 x 16 (88in.), but low gears for climbing cols were technically unavailable, and probably thought of as girly anyway. I remember Bristolian pro Phil Edwards admitting that his team leader 'Fraaanchesco' Moser had once used a 28 sprocket for a major climb so coyly that you might have as thought he had come out as gay.
It's been a source of both irritation and amusement to me to see young riders (mostly male) duck waddle pedalling and either windmill along in bottom gear or more likely, not changing out of top, so the vast range of gear ratios available now often serves only to exaggerate this.
And while I've got me geriatric tin hat on, what's with the riders of 29ers (and now 27.5ers) riding bikes that resemble engineless trials bikes with gearing the total opposite of all road bikes, with single 32 chainrings and 42 bottom cassettes?
Thanks - I'd actually been looking at some iclic 2 earlier.
However (and I expect everyone says this initially) but I'd ideally prefer to avoid clipless ones and have some standard pedals
The development that I'm finding irritating is mountain bikes equipped with batteries. The mountains are full of them this year. Just feels like cheating to me but maybe I'm too much of a purist and at 45 getting old minded! Can't do a Col on your road bike or a trail on your mountain bike now without seeing someone gliding up a hill with a battery assisting them. Get a motorbike or pedal the damn thing.
Feels like cheating? That is bloody cheating!
I had no idea this was happening and I'd say no, it's not being old minded, it's bloody cheating.
I haven't seen this happen on the road yet but I'm not sure I'd know as I believe they can be very quiet.
For me this is a step too far. At least with differences in gears the person is still doing the work themselves.
It's not cycling, it's motorcycling. How long before the powers that be step in to license and regulate I wonder?
The Bosch and Yamaha engines stay below 250W to avoid being classed as a mototcycle. Our local MTB trail centre (Gisburn Forest) now has lots of people on £3.5K plus electric bikes whizzing around.
Does it bother me? No, my pal has one and when I go out with him it is like motor pacing. Its the hardest full on threshold riding just to keep up. Until ..............we get to 16 mph then the motors switch off. At this time riding a 35lb bike versus my 16lb single speed really splits the field.
The argument will always be that electric bikes allow people who would/ could only venture short distances to go further. Does it bother me , not really , sure Strava segments are tumbling everywhere, but that just means ride harder.
Schofie, just put 'mechanical doping' into a search field on Youtube, the ingenuity of fitting motors to road bikes is staggering.
Lucky Man...Just agreed a deal on a set of these to go on it...
I like the "stealth" look
No I got some 6.7 clinchers with King hubs as new for a great price after religiously checking eBay everyday! So far have an Enve stealth black stem and Bars for it, Dura Ace 52/36 cranks, Dura ace pedals/brakes/cassette and a gold KMC X11SL chain. Just need to sort mechs/shifters/saddleThat's going to be an awesome build. Was it the Enve tubs on SC that you picked up?
Today's reward after climbing Norwood Edge and Greenhow Hill was rather nice
SRAM have just released a 12sp 10-50 cassette which almost covers the same range as the old triple set-ups and manages to almost weigh the same. A single ring and wide range cassette is fine if all your riding is done off-road but I have a 5 mile road ride to my local trails and I use 44-11 for 2 miles of the return journey. Both my MTB's have triples fitted and will be staying that way.
Yes - they're clearly having too much fun ;)
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