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Thread: TZ Cycling/Bike Appreciation thread!

  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aquavit View Post
    Here you go chaps, something a little different ....................


    Can you tell me what this is. I'm looking for a folding bike and this looks interesting.
    And what is the saddle. That looks good too and will be tougher than the usual saddles, which I'm guessing you need for flinging the bike in the boot etc.

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by barreti View Post
    Can you tell me what this is. I'm looking for a folding bike and this looks interesting.
    And what is the saddle. That looks good too and will be tougher than the usual saddles, which I'm guessing you need for flinging the bike in the boot etc.
    It's a Moulton, it doesn't fold and the saddle is a Brookes. And it is fairly pricey.

  3. #603
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    A Moulton is to bikes what a Morgan is to cars :)
    Last edited by Josh B; 29th April 2015 at 14:35.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Morgan View Post
    Got a new set of Hope Hoops delivered yesterday and spent a hour trying to get a WTB Wolverine to fit couldn't get it on the rim for love or money.... Now my old Bronson just slipped on no bother???
    Great wheels but can be very tricky getting some brands of tyre on, I had issues with Contis. Not sure if you have tried this but if not, it's critical you get the bead into the central groove of the rim while you try to get the tyres on plus putting some warm soapy water on the bead first really helps them slip on.

    First couple of times I put tyres on there was a lot of swearing, now I can just about do it without using levers in most cases.

  5. #605
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    I'd go for something more along these lines;


  6. #606
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    Quote Originally Posted by warns74 View Post
    Great wheels but can be very tricky getting some brands of tyre on, I had issues with Contis. Not sure if you have tried this but if not, it's critical you get the bead into the central groove of the rim while you try to get the tyres on plus putting some warm soapy water on the bead first really helps them slip on.

    First couple of times I put tyres on there was a lot of swearing, now I can just about do it without using levers in most cases.
    A good tip is to use bits of string. Squeeze the tyre bead together, push into the well of the rim, tie a bit of string around the tyre and the rim at that point to hold it in place. Repeat at about six inches along. You should then be able to push the rest of the tyre in using your thumbs. Honestly can't recall the last time I used levers to put a tyre on (take them off? Sure, but not to put them on).

  7. #607
    Grand Master Carlton-Browne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh B View Post
    A Moulton is to bikes what a Morgan is to cars :)
    I'm not entirely sure I'd go with that analogy - just because they come from the same part of the world. For a start Alex Moulton didn't steal appropriate all of his technology from the Germans. They can both cost an eye-wateringly large amount of money though.

    Although the Moulton TSR (above) isn't a folding bike the vast majority of versions split in half which makes it easier to fit in the boot of a car.

  8. #608
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    I have recently purchased this on the C2W Scheme, went from a cross bike back to MTB and loving it so far...





    Genesis High Latitude 20

  9. #609
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    Old school cyclists used to use a toe clip strap to hold reluctant tyres
    on the rim before easing the rest on.

  10. #610
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh B View Post
    It's a 5800 gruppo including the pedals but obviously excluding the crankset. Stem is a little longer than stock and bars and seat are both flat and parallel to the ground although they dont look like it in the pic!

    i am hugely impressed with the 5800. I test rode a couple 6800 fitted bikes from cervelo and giant and actively prefer the feel of 5800.
    Agree - I have the latest 6800 on my "best bike" (carbon) and latest 5800 on my "wet bike" (aluminium).

    The latter I installed myself (just last week) and I must say it performs better than the 6800 does. For the last year since I got the best bike with the 6800 I have been intending to strip it and re-build it myself (I love to tinker) but just have been too lazy!

    As you know the build and set up probably owes more to my 5800 being better than the groupset itself.

    But yes I agree, now the 5800 is here there's little reason to pay more for 6800. The only worthwhile upgrade is right to dura ace for the racers. The place of the6800 is now less certain than ever with the 5800 being so good.

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beaunidle View Post
    A good tip is to use bits of string. Squeeze the tyre bead together, push into the well of the rim, tie a bit of string around the tyre and the rim at that point to hold it in place. Repeat at about six inches along. You should then be able to push the rest of the tyre in using your thumbs. Honestly can't recall the last time I used levers to put a tyre on (take them off? Sure, but not to put them on).
    Quote Originally Posted by warns74 View Post
    Great wheels but can be very tricky getting some brands of tyre on, I had issues with Contis. Not sure if you have tried this but if not, it's critical you get the bead into the central groove of the rim while you try to get the tyres on plus putting some warm soapy water on the bead first really helps them slip on.

    First couple of times I put tyres on there was a lot of swearing, now I can just about do it without using levers in most cases.
    Quote Originally Posted by craggie View Post
    Old school cyclists used to use a toe clip strap to hold reluctant tyres
    on the rim before easing the rest on.
    Tried to hold it on with three of the straps from my cycle carrier but made no difference, snapped a few leavers in the process too.

    A google tells me that plenty of others have had issues with this tire / rim combo so not too surprised

  12. #612
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Morgan View Post
    Tried to hold it on with three of the straps from my cycle carrier but made no difference, snapped a few leavers in the process too.

    A google tells me that plenty of others have had issues with this tire / rim combo so not too surprised

    Which rims are they build with? If it's the Stans Crests then I'd agree - trying to get a pair of Schwalbe Racing Ralphs (which usually fall onto other rims) mounted tubeless on them was a pigging nightmare.

    Although probably only the third hardest combination I've had after Veloflex clinchers on Pacenti Sl23s and a pair of particularly offensive Continental Competition tubs on a pair of Planet X wheels - an effort that was made even more unpleasant by tubs (and subsequently me) being covered in glue.

  13. #613
    Meesterbond, the IF is lovely - how does it ride and which guards are you going to fit on?
    Last edited by samswatch; 29th April 2015 at 20:59.

  14. #614
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    TZ Cycling/Bike Appreciation thread!

    Changed the bar tape on the Burls to black. Done a few hundred miles on this now and its a treat to ride:

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1430339838.098927.jpg

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meesterbond View Post
    Which rims are they build with? If it's the Stans Crests then I'd agree - trying to get a pair of Schwalbe Racing Ralphs (which usually fall onto other rims) mounted tubeless on them was a pigging nightmare.

    Although probably only the third hardest combination I've had after Veloflex clinchers on Pacenti Sl23s and a pair of particularly offensive Continental Competition tubs on a pair of Planet X wheels - an effort that was made even more unpleasant by tubs (and subsequently me) being covered in glue.
    Arch ex and wtb wolverines do not play nice 😼

  16. #616
    Quote Originally Posted by samswatch View Post
    Meesterbond, the IF is lovely - how does it ride and which guards are you going to fit on?
    Thank you! I think I'd describe the ride as 'smooth'. The handling is really composed, corners beautifully predictably and despite the aggressive position it's very comfortable - although the 32mm tyres aren't going to hurt.
    On the down side, it isnt the lightest bike in the world - probably about 9kg I think so it isn't the most urgent off the line. That said, I've got 6.5kg carbon race bikes and this was never meant to replace them.

    If it isn't a bit of a cliche but it's a bike to just ride around. Not for training or racing, just to enjoy riding and it does that really well.

    Not sure about guards yet - hoping I won't need any for a few months yet but I'll probably stick some narrower tyres on and then see what fits.

  17. #617

    Picked this up a few weeks back, it's new to me, my dream bike ( well almost anyhoo)
    Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 7 Di2 2014 MY.
    Not had a chance to take any good pics of it yet but hope to real soon.
    Stunning bike that responds to to any increase in power and is so comfortable also.

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottA View Post
    Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 7 Di2 2014 MY.
    Nice!

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottA View Post
    Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 7 Di2 2014 MY.
    Not had a chance to take any good pics of it yet but hope to real soon.
    Stunning bike that responds to to any increase in power and is so comfortable also.

    Googled that - yup, it’s nice! Enjoy. Looks like good cycling country in the photo.

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottA View Post
    Picked this up a few weeks back, it's new to me, my dream bike ( well almost anyhoo)
    Canyon Ultimate CF SLX 7 Di2 2014 MY.
    Not had a chance to take any good pics of it yet but hope to real soon.
    Stunning bike that responds to to any increase in power and is so comfortable also.
    its really hard to do better vfm than with Canyon - great choice!

    and lucky you to live in Scotland with such marvellous roads to enjoy!

  21. #621
    Thanks all. Really can't complain about the cycling in Scotland, I'm in central Scotland so definitely flatter than other area's but I can still have a good work out locally and on a good day It can look quite pretty.

  22. #622
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    I picked up a Boardman copm hybrid cheap off Gumtree last week to get out for a few miles in the evening after work and hopefully help lose some weight

  23. #623
    I finally understood the joy of riding off-road, no cars. Went around the woods on my boardman pro, and I had a good time even though I got off for the more technical bits - too scared of falling off.

    Amazing what suspension can do!

  24. #624
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    Newbie alert! The company I work for offers a c2w scheme and I'd like to use it to cycle more regularly as with my new job I'll be driving* more and might have less opportunities to get to the gym. As we're moving out of London to the Peak District (Dronfield) cycling is certainly a good way to keep fit and I really enjoy spin-classes at the gym.

    I'm basically looking for pointers on where to start. Knowledge is zero, but I know I would like to have a bit more flexibility than an outright road bike so a hybrid is of interest so long as it doesn't ruin riding on road. The specialized diverge on previous pages looks good to my naive eyes!

    *I'm assuming I don't have to use the bike full time to commute, but would like to use regular in evenings and for weekend rides.

    I'd really appreciate any insight or tips in starting up this hobby!

  25. #625
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    The only issue with a hybrid is they tend to come with flat bars. It may not be an issue as such but it puts you in a more relaxed, upright riding position which will compromise on road performance a little. The further you ride, the more likely it is you'll appreciate drop bars. Cyclocross/gravel/adventure bikes are kind of hybrids with drop bars, or road bikes with clearance for wide tyres to put it another way. To me they offer the best of both worlds providing you are not doing proper off-roading. For the average fire road, gravel track etc they are excellent.

    Disc brakes are becoming more popular on this type of bike now, although the best performing hydraulic brakes are still quite expensive. Although I resisted the pull of discs for ages, I've found the cable disc brakes on my Diverge to be excellent so far. Other considerations are mounts for mudguards for winter use, and/or racks for touring. Although they are becoming widespread, many CX bikes still don't have them.
    Last edited by benny.c; 7th May 2015 at 16:05.

  26. #626
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    If you do go for a cyclo cross bike watch out for the gearing if you live in a hilly area as those are geared for a pretty flat course.

  27. #627
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    I've found a 46/36 cyclocross crankset OK for road use although I agree a compact 50/34 is better. A lot of CX bikes seem to come with compact cranksets now anyway and rear cassettes are easily changed.

  28. #628
    Its sound daft, but I prefer a triple as I like the 39 in the middle or a proper double, but I really need the granny gear!

  29. #629
    Grand Master magirus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by samswatch View Post
    Its sound daft, but I prefer a triple as I like the 39 in the middle or a proper double, but I really need the granny gear!
    Ultegra 6800 50/34 with an 11sp 11/32 cassette gets my 58yr old legs up anything.
    F.T.F.A.

  30. #630
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    I have just changed from my CX bike, cross race disc currently on eBay, to a mountain bike before I switch back I had changed the 11-32 rear block to a 11-28 it made quite a bit of difference, still with the 36/46 up front but never used the 36.

    Was able to do sportives and keep up with roadie bikes easy..

  31. #631
    I suppose it depends a lot on the route, last sportive I did I ran out of gears spinning a 50/34 crankset on a 11/28 cassette - a 53 up front would have been very nice. I'm giving some serious thought about the 52/36 crankset & 11-30 for whatever will be my next bike. When I did a big climb last year the 34/28 combination made things very tough - mind you the climb was from 400m to 3275m over 40km with no downhills and some parts being 15-20%.



    Quote Originally Posted by burton View Post
    I have just changed from my CX bike, cross race disc currently on eBay, to a mountain bike before I switch back I had changed the 11-32 rear block to a 11-28 it made quite a bit of difference, still with the 36/46 up front but never used the 36.

    Was able to do sportives and keep up with roadie bikes easy..

  32. #632
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    Quote Originally Posted by eldrich View Post
    I suppose it depends a lot on the route, last sportive I did I ran out of gears spinning a 50/34 crankset on a 11/28 cassette - a 53 up front would have been very nice.
    If you can sustain 50/11 at 90rpm you will hit 33MPH, spin your legs into a blur and youll be close to 50, on a 52T you might gain 1-2 MPH but over any race less short TT's you probably wont be left wanting and you would be better off fresher for the climbs where you can make more time up than on any decent.
    RIAC

  33. #633
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    Depends a lot on preference really. I have a 50/34 on one bike and find it under geared for London and surrounds.

    The 52-36 on the other bike is a good compromise for me and with an 11-28 on the back theres never reason to change the set up. The front rings are what the bike came with and wasn't worth the cost of switching it to my preferred 53/39.

  34. #634
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    If your average speeds over any distances are below 17.5mph you will make better use of a compact, 17.5-20mph would make good use of a semi compact and over 20mph is perfect for a 53/39
    RIAC

  35. #635
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    Quote Originally Posted by 100thmonkey View Post
    If your average speeds over any distances are below 17.5mph you will make better use of a compact, 17.5-20mph would make good use of a semi compact and over 20mph is perfect for a 53/39
    A good rule of thumb (subject to Rule 24 of course) although it is also about how one likes to ride. Some are spinners, some prefer to push harder on a smaller cog, which itself will depend on the distance and terrain.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by benny.c View Post
    The only issue with a hybrid is they tend to come with flat bars. It may not be an issue as such but it puts you in a more relaxed, upright riding position which will compromise on road performance a little. The further you ride, the more likely it is you'll appreciate drop bars. Cyclocross/gravel/adventure bikes are kind of hybrids with drop bars, or road bikes with clearance for wide tyres to put it another way. To me they offer the best of both worlds providing you are not doing proper off-roading. For the average fire road, gravel track etc they are excellent.

    Disc brakes are becoming more popular on this type of bike now, although the best performing hydraulic brakes are still quite expensive. Although I resisted the pull of discs for ages, I've found the cable disc brakes on my Diverge to be excellent so far. Other considerations are mounts for mudguards for winter use, and/or racks for touring. Although they are becoming widespread, many CX bikes still don't have them.
    Thanks for the reply. Looking into the scheme some more it seems I can only get the bike via Halfords...so my options seem to be

    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike...oad-sport-2014

    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike...n-cx-comp-bike

    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike...-edition-black (I quite like this one, but is more road focused?)

    Any other good options? Assume Boardman is respected enough for a newbie?

    Cheers

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lippy View Post
    Any other good options? Assume Boardman is respected enough for a newbie?

    Cheers
    Definitely - some of them get good reviews and compare well with others in their price bracket.

    I haven’t looked at the above in detail but the Cx comp looks a pretty versatile machine. What’s your budget? Sorry if I have missed that info somewhere above.

  38. #638
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    TZ Cycling/Bike Appreciation thread!

    Decathlon bikes (BTwin) are excellent value. A guy in our village just took up cycling with us and got a great BTwin road bike with a nice light aluminium frame, carbon forks, all in a stealth matt black finish with Shimano 105 groupset for a mere £600. Those of us who have cycled for a fair few years were quite shocked at the quality and components for the price.

    Edit: this is the bike, its on offer at £599. Rediculously good piece of kit for that money: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/alur-700-...d_8290145.html
    Last edited by PipPip; 8th May 2015 at 19:55.

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lippy View Post
    Thanks for the reply. Looking into the scheme some more it seems I can only get the bike via Halfords...so my options seem to be

    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike...oad-sport-2014

    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike...n-cx-comp-bike

    http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike...-edition-black (I quite like this one, but is more road focused?)

    Any other good options? Assume Boardman is respected enough for a newbie?

    Cheers
    Yeah, they tend to get decent reviews. Of those three, only the CX would give you the flexibility to venture on to unpaved cycle tracks really. You could go for a wider 33 or 35 width treaded tyre for the winter and swap for a more slick 28 or 25 for the summer. It looks like it has eyelets for mudguards and racks so should be good for winter/touring if required.

    The groupset is fine for a beginner but if you do get into riding more you can get a complete Shimano 105 11 speed groupset for £290, which in reality is pretty much all you'd ever need. You'd need to change your wheels too mind. I doubt you'd feel the need to upgrade initially anyway.

    If you can push the budget then the CX team is worth a look.
    Last edited by benny.c; 8th May 2015 at 21:45.

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by steviefleming View Post
    Here's mine ;

    Not on the bike anymore due to pure bone idleness........

    Its a 1993 Colnago Master Pui Decor.

    Dont think I will ever sell it ......it might be 20 years old , but i still love to look at it.






    I did have a pipe dream about getting back on the bike last year and spent 6 months building the following bike before selling it on here to a TZ'er ........boy its beautiful .

    Colnago Extreme-C












    Can I join in and sorry to drag up and old post.

    Colnago Master with Campag, lovely!!

    I've a Master from 1997 in Mapei colours that has never been built up and is still in its wrapper.

    Anybody else into Colnago's

    Ken

  41. #641
    Master Chris W's Avatar
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    Finished building my lads bike last week.
    Turned out ok, cranks are a temporary measure until I get the 150mm 3x spider from Thorn now that I've manged to get some decent chain rings.










  42. #642
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  43. #643
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    Used bike comments

    I use my mountain / hybrid bike for my daily commute (2 miles each way) but I'd like to try a 'racer' maybe to see if I like it(if that makes sense)
    I've seen this bike on eBay locally - guy wants £60 - is it worth it just to see if I like it
    Looks like it may need some work
    eBay number 131528359665
    Thanks for any comments
    Should be about the right size I'm 6' 11/2" with a 33" inside leg

  44. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewie View Post
    I use my mountain / hybrid bike for my daily commute (2 miles each way) but I'd like to try a 'racer' maybe to see if I like it(if that makes sense)
    I've seen this bike on eBay locally - guy wants £60 - is it worth it just to see if I like it
    Looks like it may need some work
    eBay number 131528359665
    Thanks for any comments
    Should be about the right size I'm 6' 11/2" with a 33" inside leg
    I think the frame may be a little large for you but depends on the geometry. What concerns me more is guys selling stuff that is a claimed easy fix but they dont do it due to time or such. Thats nonsense.

    If you factor in new chain, cassette and rear mech plus labour its not worth buying I'm afraid.

  45. #645
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    Those bolts holding the chainring on - crazy (and unrideable). I'd don't think "filing" will quite do it.

    My bet would be that in order to make this bike ride nicely it would need the entire drive-train replaced. I'd also be concerned about things like the handlebars as it it likely that there has been over-tightening and general butchery going on. Wheel rims - hard to tell but could be well worn.

    My verdict: will take a lot of time / moderate amounts of money to put right. You'd be better off going to Evans or Halfords to see what they have at the lower end. Some of the sub-£500 road bikes can be remarkably good value.

  46. #646
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    Ok thanks - it's not for me then

  47. #647
    Master Chris W's Avatar
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    Applied a few upgrades to my Carrera Fury.

    Mavic Crossride wheels
    Nukeproof Warhead bars 760mm
    Boardman carbon seat post

    Got a KS eTen dropper post to fit in the next few days.

  48. #648
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    Would have had the panda dialled Speedmaster on SC today if I hadnt bought this yesterday :(


  49. #649
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    My knees have gone all weak just looking at this:



    hubba hubba!

    (the all new Venge ViAS)

  50. #650
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    Come on cycling nerds, where's the passion?!

    Tell me these dont make your lycra stretch just a little bit, if not a full blown crotch blowout?










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