Reply With QuoteI'd be looking at gravel bikesOriginally Posted by j17ykp
after teaching my son to ride a bike last week I’ve started thinking I should get back in the saddle so one day we can go out on longer rides together as he gets older, that being said I know squat about bikes and the options available are mind boggling so I thought I would turn to the more experienced cyclists on here.
At this stage I know I want a drop bar bike with the ability to handle the road and maybe a cycle around the odd park or Forrest road, and preferably a 105 group set.
Budget is around £700/800 for the bike.
One bike that I think might work is the following
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/edr-af-e...d_8529300.html
They have other bikes but this seems to offer the best all round spec as well the ability to add 28mm tyres.
Any suggests welcome.
Thanks
Jay.
I'd be looking at gravel bikes
UCI masters worlds ... vanity trip for middle aged cyclists.
My Canyon in bikepacking set up
Last edited by Montello; 27th June 2020 at 19:46.
Pretty much all Decathlon bikes are good value. That bike is road oriented, but should handle the odd bit of rougher stuff - as mentioned, you might want to consider a gravel or cross bike though.
Bear in mind that all bikes are in short supply currently.
Pete
That Dolan on SC here seems good value
Planet X do some fine bikes at good prices
A recent quote in Cycling Plus said “Gravel bikes will drive innovation over the next 2/3 years” so as Trident says look at them.
I recon my gravel bike has done over 5000 miles In three years . I use it all winter With mudguards. During summer (/still with mudguards) I ride all the small pot holed local lanes with my wife. The gear selection on a gravel bike is so versatile, the emphasis is getting you up hills without knackering yourself.
Just a reminder, always wear your helmet.
Not a good picture but as I neared home I hopped onto the pavement to avoid a bus coming up the crowded street , clipped a wheelie bin and was knocked onto a spiked wooden fence.
A spike broke the helmet. I dread to think what I’d be like without a helmet.
Oh and my arm & face are a right mess!
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Ouch! Looks spectacular. I hope you heal up soon.
That looks horrendous, wishing you a speedy recovery
That looks seriously terrible, really glad you're ok. If you weren't wearing a helmet who knows what the outcome would have been. Horrible thought.
Helmets are essential.
RIAC
Arm looks terrible. Hope you get better soon!
Looks nasty - Speedy recovery.
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
Sending positive waves man!
Just picked up. Wrong side of London so a nice 90 minute ride back!
I'd edit this as soon as you possibly can, or you will definitely be on your bike.
F.T.F.A.
I've seen better bar tape jobs...
I’ve done worse
Pete
I've seen better bar tape jobs...
Had one Side zip-tied on for about 2 years !!
RIAC
Bar tape on mine is pretty ropey, I blame the idiot that did it
Had you run out of jungle tape?
In the Sotadic Zone, apparently.
Great line, spinning is winning !
RIAC
New bike arrived a couple of days ago. Only R7000 groupset, but it's better than the 6 year old DI2 of my old bike, and only 200g heavier than Ultegra. I spent a few hours yesterday swapping all the cheap Deda Zero kit for my lovely Fizik stuff, rewrapping the bars, and adjusting the fit. I'll cut the forks once I've dialled in my fit properly.
I can't find my luggage scales, but I'd guess at around 8kg with those cheap RS100 wheels and wired tyres, so will be around UCI limit when I get my DuraAce carbon hoops on
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Very clean cabling at the bars. The seat and bar tape look great.
@Binsull you weren't kidding about the saddle pain. 14 miles around here feel like 40 on mountain bike.
Ha ha!
Funnily enough I ordered a new saddle this week :)
Thanks - I think that's the cleanest I've ever managed
Let us know if you stumble on anything worth upgrading to, i'm walking round like John Wayne atm.
Lovely bike, can i ask what this means pls? I'm new to all this so even though i'm struggling to walk the walk at least if i could talk the talk it might help.
Unfortunately, saddles are trial and error. What works for me might cut you in half.
Cutting down the forks: The tube that comes up from the forks and goes through the frame is called the steerer. Once people know how high they want their stem, the excess tube is (sometimes) cut off so you don't end up with a load of tube sticking up through the stem. When you are new to cycling, it's often a good plan to not do this too soon; people often find that they feel comfortable with a lower stem over time.
This. I went through 6 different saddles before I found the right one to use just before JOGLE.
Sure... as I am not a professional cyclist, it's mostly for looks, although "slammed" stems do make you more aerodynamic if you're flexible enough to adopt the 'arse above hands' position and still be able to breathe and pedal efficiently.Lovely bike, can i ask what this means pls? I'm new to all this so even though i'm struggling to walk the walk at least if i could talk the talk it might help.
There are a number of 'spacers' between the top of the headtube and the bottom of the stem. I've already moved one from below the stem to above it in the picture below - you can see the remaining two below the stem. I will probably remove one more, make sure it's comfortable on the turbo trainer and then I will trim the equivalent length from the fork steerer so that I don't need any spacers above the stem (because this looks silly). Obviously cutting the fork steerer down is permanent and can't be reversed.
More info here : https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitnes...s-or-no-192687
Incoming next week, pretty pumped! 500w electrical engine and the boys love it!!!
- - - Updated - - -
Incoming next week, pretty pumped! 500w electrical engine and the boys love it!!!
I’m seeing so many cargo and family bikes out on the streets in London, I live on cycle route 23 in outer London and while doing the washing up the other day 5 went by in a matter of minutes, there was even an overtake manoeuvre by a mum and 2 kids on a load carrier! I live on a steep hill so there was a motor involved.
5 years ago there were hardly any around.
Always a favourite of mine.
Regarding saddles i have sat on £200+ carbon railed saddles and also on free saddles taken off £200 Halfords specials and the cheapest ugliest is often comfiest bumist! But from experience most people ive met, trained and advised have not spent long enough toughening their guiche.
RIAC
My saddles are all thin & rock hard. I've got a full carbon saddle on my Colnago which has no padding whatsoever. It is one of the most comfortable saddles I've got. The padding should be mainly in the shorts. And you obviously don't wear underpants under your cycling shorts. As Kerry said, you'll toughen up down there if you do regular rides. If you do get a sore arse, use Sudacrem or something similar. If I go on a long ride I often put it on, or proper chammy creme, before I go. Don't get it mixed up with the deep heat though.
For me the discomfort in the saddle on the road/gravel bike I've just bought it's not the bum end it's on the tip at the top. When I go to hold onto the dropped bars that tip goes places I'm not used to. I've tried pointing it down but I think that leads to added pressure on my back through my arms. Do you get used to that part?
Last edited by wileeeeeey; 4th July 2020 at 11:19.
It's hard to say without feeling what you feel, so to speak.
That said, it might be worth playing with the saddle fore-aft so when you are on the drops you are still sitting on your arse bones, just rotated forward more. Flexibility helps here also. Definitely don't drop the nose of the saddle to any great degree, they should be roughly level. You are right when you say that doing this creates other issues.
Finally, a cut out saddle may help if you do not already have one.
I don't get on with flat Arione type saddles, I need a saddle that swoops up at the rear. After much trial and error, the Aliante is perfect for me.
These are only a few of the ones I've tried and failed with!
Nice! By the way I did a 200 mile ride on your old S Works the other week, very nice to have a reliable bike in those circumstances. Very refined ride, as well.
Always a favourite of mine.
Good to hear. Buy quality and well built
And itll
Provide a lifetime of pleasure.
I much prefer the SL4 to the new SL5 in SL6 there is no real difference in the weave of the carbon the geometry has changed but I don’t see that it’s any better. And on top of that they are so damn ugly now that they’ve dropped the rear end down.
RIAC
Best to keep the saddle level. I don't notice any discomfort at all and aren't really aware of how I'm sat. I've just had a sit on my bike to see what I'm doing and nearly all the pressure is on my sit bones of the pelvis. I can see what you mean about the tip and I think that I often hang my tackle to one side of the tip, especially when using the drops, & favouring balls to the left.
Though half a degree can make a world of difference, I had pressure in the middle with a level saddle and dropping the nose half a degree brought the sit bones back in to play. I’m skinny so not much padding which probably contributed.Definitely don't drop the nose of the saddle to any great degree
I find this very comfortable . . .
On my MTB I've always used a Selle Italia Flite, the basic model.
Re comfort, I've already mentioned on this thread the need for your saddle to fit you, hence trident-7 and myself amongst others being happy with saddles with hardly any padding if any.
Get your sit bones measured before spending money on saddles, then get one that fits you properly.
Also, padded shorts of course, but some are better than others e.g. the kit I race CX in I couldn't ride for more than two hours in on the road (as I've found to my cost!). It's all very personal, but if I'm going out for a big ride I will wear my Rapha shorts and know I'll be comfortable all day. A lot of people rate Castelli who make my club kit, and it's good but for me Rapha is better YMMV.
The other thing though, bike fit. You need to be in the right position e.g. if you're too stretched out you will tend to end up sitting on the nose of the saddle. A bike fit is really worthwhile, it's not just about comfort, but ensuring you're not in a position that could cause you injury.
+1 for the Rapha shorts. I have a lot of Castelli kit, which I love, but I'd favour my Rapha Pro Team bib shorts for comfort, especially on longer rides
Personal experience of Rapha shorts is that they seem better for skinny boys.
Assos have strong and quality padding and the aftersales is superb with almost a lifetime guarantee on repairs if they fail.
Personally I wear Specialized Pro stuff as has the sweet spot of price, quality and comfort and they are incredibly durable as j have some that are years old and wont quit.
If anyone is getting into cycling I always have too many bikes so might give one up. Would be a 56cm and very nice!!!!!
RIAC
If you have a bike with mounting points on the top tube this storage pack is coming out in the UK in a few weeks. It's called the cervelo smartpak 400a and it's about £48 or £49, should be with suppliers in week 34 so end of August delivery. Should be quite handy.
Magirus I have the SLS on two of my bikes, the road and the gravel, my Yeti mountain bike is old school , so yes you’ve guessed Flight Titanium! 190g of function. I think Ive only had two since the 90’s they are that bombproof.I find this very comfortable . . .
On my MTB I've always used a Selle Italia Flite, the basic model.
When you find a saddle that works you just take it from bike to bike nothing worse than trying to readjust
RIAC
Proof of the pudding, I'm also only on my second Flite Ti since the 90's!
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