Reply With QuoteIt's an Inbred titanium. Designed for 26" wheels but the 29ers just about fit with the 37mm WTB tyres.Originally Posted by Meesterbond
Love that.... always nice to see a Lefty!
What frame is that... looks a bit like a 456 but can't make out the name on the top tube!
It's an Inbred titanium. Designed for 26" wheels but the 29ers just about fit with the 37mm WTB tyres.
Of course!
I had a steel 456 a while back and whilst the geometry was spot on, it rode like it was made of scaffold poles... Seemed to ride through things rather than over them. Always wondered whether a decent tube set would sort the problem.
Steel is real
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Now the weather is here for mudguards I dont want to use it encase it gets dirty haha
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...but titanium is nicer...
My steel Colnago road bike is 2.1 Kgs lighter than my Titanium gravel bike!
We need pics!
Your wish in my command . Colnago is a Master X lite with the “ octagonal “ tubing and lovely lugs. Forks are deep chrome. Gravel is a Genesis Croix de Fer Ti. Carbon fork but a strong heavy beast.
Photo 3 is a line up of my three bikes showing the “ old school” geometry of the Colnago. No sloping top tube on this bad boy.
Last edited by higham5; 17th November 2022 at 14:01.
Nice!
What do they weigh? Approx 8 and 10kg?
Good guess, fmp = frame mounted pump.
Beacon Carbon FMP =8.6kgs
Genesis FMP =10.9kgs
Colnago =8.8kgs
Interesting, makes the Croix de Fer the same weight as my Inbred ti with lefty.
Certainly does, my Croix has mudguards fitted unlike your On One , but they will be 350g max. Its a myth that titanium bikes are superlight. But the first ride on my Beacon Carbon after a winter on the Croix shakes my fillings out. The slack geometry plus carbon fork and springy frame takes out all the road buzz.
The other thing I like about titanium is not being too precious on the cleaning. In the club Im in there are Burls and Van Nicolas titanium bike plus a one off custom ti build. If you lined all the frames up only a mother could spot the difference.
The carbon does accelerate though……:)
Agreed, titanium isn't all about the weight.
I went from a Lynskey Sportive (ti) to a Cipollini Bond (carbon). Both have their benefits...
A decent tube set (titanium or not) won't help when the frame is built like that. It will be very stiff and hard ride.
I still have a titanium road bike, bought in 2004. I bought it for the longevity and strenght of titanium - I rode it maybe 80000-90000km and it still looks like new, even though it travelled often in the race team bus.
Disagree. The inbred ti rides fine.
Well, I'm happy you are happy with it. It's built to be a super tough MTB and rear stay design like that will offer no flex at all. It'd bound to be rather stiff, but that doesn't mean that it wouldn't work fine for you. And it's a very cool looking bike!-)
I'm currently riding a carbon gravel bike where the flex is built in the seatpost with no traditional clamp. It allows significant flex, maybe even too much for my liking. My fender is attached to the seatpost with maybe 1cm between the tire and the fender and going over rough terrain the seatpost flexes so much that the fender touches the tire.
Wife and I were out on the mountain bikes today. Mine is hiding behind here.
There is more flex from the stays than you might think (more than I've had from some alloy frames!) but it is fairly stiff.
Fine for gravel, with some cushioning from the tyres and some flex from the long exposed seatpost. For rougher MTB stuff the extra tyre volume would add to the mix and there's always my legs!
Last edited by gunner; 17th November 2022 at 21:38.
Nice but the bars need rotating downwardsPicked up some 29er wheels and tyres from eBay so ready for some gravel...
Needs a different stem too.
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And extra front mudguard clearance. Maybe not
What size is the Colnago frame? Absolutely stunning they dont make them like that anymore!Your wish in my command . Colnago is a Master X lite with the “ octagonal “ tubing and lovely lugs. Forks are deep chrome. Gravel is a Genesis Croix de Fer Ti. Carbon fork but a strong heavy beast.
Photo 3 is a line up of my three bikes showing the “ old school” geometry of the Colnago. No sloping top tube on this bad boy.
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So I decided it was time to retire my trusty and beloved Brompton and replace it with something I feel more comfortable doing a few extra miles on
My new Orro Terra C SRAM AXS mullet set up, picked up this morning from 73 degrees in Keynsham who were fantastic to deal with.
Had them set it up tubeless for me so fingers crossed many happy, stress free miles ahead.
The only thing I dont have is a multi tool so if anyone can suggest a decent, cover all bases one I am all ears. Ive had a look around online and the choice is bewildering.
Cheers,
Ben
..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers
" an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "
Congrats on the new bike😁 I've had a Topeak Alien multitool for years now and it's served me well for both my MTB and road bike (saved me a few times when out and about). Don't think the original Alien is available anymore but you could get the Alien II.So I decided it was time to retire my trusty and beloved Brompton and replace it with something I feel more comfortable doing a few extra miles on
My new Orro Terra C SRAM AXS mullet set up, picked up this morning from 73 degrees in Keynsham who were fantastic to deal with.
Had them set it up tubeless for me so fingers crossed many happy, stress free miles ahead.
The only thing I dont have is a multi tool so if anyone can suggest a decent, cover all bases one I am all ears. Ive had a look around online and the choice is bewildering.
I have an Alien I'm not using any more so drop me a line if you're interested. I now use one by Silca.
Nice Orro BTW
Last edited by gunner; 2nd December 2022 at 16:51.
Thats lovely. A friend has the very same; its a quick bike. Enjoy.So I decided it was time to retire my trusty and beloved Brompton and replace it with something I feel more comfortable doing a few extra miles on
My new Orro Terra C SRAM AXS mullet set up, picked up this morning from 73 degrees in Keynsham who were fantastic to deal with.
Had them set it up tubeless for me so fingers crossed many happy, stress free miles ahead.
The only thing I dont have is a multi tool so if anyone can suggest a decent, cover all bases one I am all ears. Ive had a look around online and the choice is bewildering.
Agree with above , plus that dinner plate sized rear cassette will get you up anything. What really threw me was the “mullet” In off road mtb parlance that means a smaller rear wheel. I kept looking at the photos and thinking, they look the same. Googling led to see its name is Mullet not its wheel size.
Enjoy the new bike.
Steve
Last edited by higham5; 2nd December 2022 at 18:03.
So that's a 29 front, 27.5 rear set up? Is the idea meant to be more traction at the front and lower center of gravity? I can't imagine going downhill at any speed close to the limits of my ability and suspect the different sizing might bug me visually but all good if it works!
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No, both wheels are 700c (29"0), the mullet refers to the mix of a road crank mixed with a mtb rear cassette.
Its what orro call it
https://www.orrobikes.com/product/te...ival-etap-bike
Cheers,
Ben
..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers
" an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "
The mullet term has gotten confusing. Mullet in MTB's means 29/27,5, but now in gravel they've taken the same term to mean MTB gearing on a gravel bike.
That looks amazing.
My knowledge of bikes is however.lacking.
When did the move from 3 front rings happen?
Also, if a single front was feasible why all this 21 / 24 gear stuff from Shimano in my cycling days?
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Thanks gunner, looked it up but a little bulkier than I would like.I have an Alien I'm not using any more so drop me a line if you're interested. I now use one by Silca.
Nice Orro BTW
Cheers,
Ben
..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers
" an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "
Narrower cassettes, which allowed more ratios on the back, which in turn required narrower chains and finer shifter control. Larger sprockets on the cassette meant the need for larger capacity derailleurs. Its a whole series of developments.
However, 1x systems are still somewhat compromised - with a current maximum of 12 speeds (though more usually 11) the gaps between ratios get quite big, so you can't always find the perfect gear. Further the smallest practical sprocket on the back is 11 teeth (though I think SRAM will do a 10), when combined with a small front ring that means a relatively low top gear, leading to spinning out on downhills or high speed flat sections. Hence most road bikes and a lot of gravel bikes will still run 2x systems, allowing smaller gaps between ratios and a higher top gear.
Some touring bikes and MTBs will still run 3x front chainrings.
As always its a balance.
Right, thanks, I'll have to read up on the benefits of that combo.
Thank you for the comprehensive reply, clearly so many evolving aspects over the years. Amazing vs the race for gear numbers. I do recall dropping & raising a few to find a mildly better gear, and questioning the benefits.
Will have to try a new bike set up at some point just for interest.
1x gears started on mountain bikes, at least in part driven by the freedom it gave frame designers who now didn't have to consider where to put a front mech. Efficient rear suspension is focused around how and where you pivot the rear wheel so with no front mech in the way, you can put the pivot where you want. It has a load of other advantages for mountain bikes (simplicity, extra space on the bars, usually for a dropper remote) and the big jumps in gears aren't really a problem as you're never really 'spinning'. That said, I'm less convinced for road bikes as it's not really solving any problems.
The maximum is actually now 13. Campagnolo Ekar.
Should be a good watch tomorrow. I watch it on YouTube, but probably streamed elsewhere. Dont think our man Mr Pidcock is racing tomorrow though.
https://youtu.be/N_bHX2SpKo4
Think Ekar has a 9 tooth. But does it matter spinning out? Being able to outclimb will often more than compensate.
13 speeds rather than teeth but yes, Ekar options do include nine of the latter.
As above. 13 speed. 9 tooth smallest sprocket gives a good range if you can tolerate bigger steps in gearing.
My 2015 giant defy is starting to show its age (as am I for that matter) and Im thinking of splurging on a new road bike; something that can handle long distances in relevant comfort and can take on light gravel. Maybe 80% road 20% gravel. Looking at this thread we have some great two wheeling minds, so thought Id ask the collective for views - budget around4K.
Im sure the collective will be on shortly. I usually peruse these group tests to see “ whats new” then start touring my local bike shops. Its been a funny couple of years for bike sales, tradionally in Oct dealers would be knocking 30% plus of this years bikes to make way for the following year.
With bike shortages I suspect that practice has all but ceased.
Linky is road , but gravel road is a click away.
https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group-...d-bikes-461550
Have fun with your research , you Giant is a cracking bike , so the benchmark is already set :)
Last edited by higham5; 26th December 2022 at 20:03.
A compromise bike is rarely a good idea in my view. Adequate for all purposes is not what I'd want out of a frame. Perhaps if you were to share what you want in a bike it would be helpful, for instance:
- tyre clearance
- frame material
- gearing preference e.g. single front chainring
- geometry; gravel and long distance frames are not the same in terms of where they position you on the bike. What is your priority, long distance comfort?
- mudguard and luggage mounts?
And so on.
Mainstream but Spesh Roubaix or Trek Domane would be good starting points. Endurance road orientated but with sufficient comfort and tyre clearance for gravel tyres as/when needed.
Thats a healthy budget.
Is the 80/20 split during one ride, or more 1 in every 5 rides is on the rough stuff.
If it's the later I'd go for the best road bike I could find, and sell the giant and buy the equivalent cx or gravel bike and use that for those rides.
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Good shout, plus consider Canyon Endurace. I have one and its done plenty of off road on 30mm gravel tyres. It will take 34 mm.
How about gravel wheels/tyres on a road bike? Or even, road wheels/tyres on a gravel bike (if you want/need the lower gearing)?
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